Thanks,
when you replace a radiator you can get some coolant that spills on the car that you can't totally clean away so there may be some steam of vapor from the coolant the may take some time to go away. That is very different from having your car over heat for a few days. If your car overheats even one time you may have damaged the head gasket seal area. (depending on how hot the engine may have gotten) What happens is the expansion of the head and the engine block is different when they get overheated. That expansion difference breaks the seal on the head gasket that seal the two parts together. It may take days sometimes months for the head gasket to show the effects of this damage. It can show up as coolant in the oil, engine runs a little rough on start up, white smoke out of the tailpipe and engine compression pressures leaking into the cooling system.
I don't think you can blame the water pump leaking on the shop that replaced you radiator. (just my personal opinion) The parts of the water pump will not usually change with an overheat that gets to 235F to 260F. However that being said, overheating and excessive pressure in the cooling system from a blown head gasket can push past the seals in the water pump and cause it to leak. All things working normally, when you have your radiator replaced you shouldn't have a overheat problem. Even with a small coolant leak, the car shouldn't over heat until the coolant gets very low.
Couple of things you might want to check. 1. use a 2 or 4 or 5 gas analyzer and check for hydrocarbons out of the radiator while the engine is running and warmed up. 2. put a radiator pressure tester on the radiator and watch the pressure build up as the engine runs and revs up. excessive pressure especially as the engine revs up or the signs of hydrocarbons will tell you that head gasket damage is very possible. The bad thing is no, one can tell when a head gasket went bad. Sometimes age, sometimes coolant electrolysis, sometimes overheat but like I said before, it sometimes takes months for the damaged head gasket to show the signs that is has been damaged.
So, in conclusion... I don't think the shop will do your water pump as a result of the leak that showed up. I would have them test for head gasket damage before they do anymore work on your engine. If you do the water pump / timing belt / balance shaft belt (and balance shaft seal and install a balance shaft seal retainer) normally done together, you will be charged double labor if they have to go back and take off the head to do a head gasket.
I just purchased this car with a friend and a little project. I have managed to make all of the repairs except for this. The car idles rough and is very short on power. When it is at an idle and you floor it (in neutral) it seems somewhat starved for fuel. It revs up very slowly. The best thing I can compare it to is an old carbureted engine with a bad accelerator pump. I also had a check engine light when I first got the car indicating multiple misfires. When I reset the light, it has not come back on. I have driven about 200 miles and it is still off.
So far I have checked the compression. It is 120-/+ in all 6 cylinders.
Fuel pressure is about 40lbs at an idle and if I accelerate it drops. While at an idle, I remove the vacuum line from the regulator and there is no change in pressure. If I pinch off the return line the pressure jumps dramatically. After changing the pressure regulator there is no difference. Since the pressure jumps I am assuming the fuel pump is good. The filter is new.
The plugs are all good.
Injectors were removed and checked. All have good flow and are clean.
I removed the EGR valve and it appears to be closing and sealing.
My next thought is the coils. They are a little bit pricey and I would like to be sure before I do this. Is there any way to test them?
Thanks in advance.
if you don't put the battery in the remote (the remote is the "key fob" for most cars) will the car start and run normally?
Does putting the battery in the remote make the alarm go off instantly or is there a slight delay. It might be that the panic may be stuck on in the remote. does taking the battery back out of the remote turn the alarm off?
you don't have a second remote?
A constant hotwire is nowhere to be found, so in the mean time I decided to hook the constant and accessory wires to the 12v battery wire so I could hookup the speakers and worry about the constant later.
Now when I go to hook up the speakers, the sound comes and goes.
I could hook up 3 speakers and all of them work fine, but when I get to the last one, I connect the wires and all of the speakers stop working.
Could this have anything to do with the fact that I'm running the accessory line to the battery?
I have a 1993 Honda Prelude Si 4WS DOHC 2.2L with a F22B JDM Engine that came with the car when I bought it, my question is would I be able to use any of these turbo kits with this engine?
Link 1 :[url]
Or what would I need in order to convert any from the links above to make it fit and work with my engine?
1st- It splutters, shudders, shakes. I have to pump the gas quite a bit to get it to turn over and then to keep it running. Once it turns over it is still spluttering and idling really low like its going to die. Stepping on the gas helps it get into the higher rpm where it will idle normally after a minute or so but it is a guessing game of how much gas to give it because sometimes instead of revving the engine it sends back down low where it seems it is ready to stall on me. I have a mechanic but he is out of ideas. We have replaced the starter, motor mounts, spark plugs, air and oil filters, and probably a couple other things I don't recall at the moment. The battery is ok after a draining issue was resolved. We also replaced the timing belt and rechecked it to make sure the it didn't slip once that didn't fix it.
2nd Issue- It keeps throwing the power steering belts. I think I have gone through 4 in the last year I have had the car. 3 of those in the past 4 months. No clue on that. Went to a higher quality but no luck.
3rd. The car has an idling issue. sometimes it idles really high when in neutral or while stopped in traffic or it pulses, revving high then low. This used to be extremely awful. We replaced the IAC and the entire throttle body because the TPS was defective. That helped a lot but it seems like after driving it for a bit in stop and go it gets mad and starts it up again anytime I am stopped or it is in neutral. It isn't as bad as it was but the issue is still there.
Any light you can shed on these issues is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
I'm looking to find out what symptoms show a bad timing chain. I'm a single mother and i need to fix this asap.
I've put too much into it now and i cant figure out what next to try thanks.
Very slippery i don't know if maybe the suspension may cause that or if i do an alignment that problem will be gone.