2004 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 2.4 L
See above video link.
I've been having this odd sound occur while I accelerate - sort of like a grinding sound (about 7 seconds into the video). It might be a bit difficult to hear over the other sound coming from my car... It occurs a lot more frequently when it's cold, when I'm accelerating, and when I am turning while I accelerate.
Also, the more obvious noise that occurs throughout the entirety of the video just began today. It does not occur while I'm stopped and it began when I stepped on the brake a little harder than usual...
Any input would be appreciated, because I know nothing about cars.
A year ago I replaced the battery with an Interstate battery. I had the battery replaced at
no charge. I checked the impedance between the battery cables before I went to connect them
to the battery and I found it to be 10 ohms. I suspect that when the rodeo is turned off, power is
still required by some electronic circuits which usually have an impedance in the 10 to 100 K ohms
given a trickle discharge of maybe 1.2 milli amps down to 120 micro amps. Ohms law tells me that 12v/10ohms = 1.2 amps.
Isn't this high? What should the disconnected impedance be between the cables?
I swapped out the car's V-tech 4-cly engine. I then added Honda transmission fluid to replace what was lost during the engine swap but unfortunately added one too many quarts. I then test drove the car. Everything worked great! The next day I attempted to drive it to work. I was 30-miles away and driving at 70 MPH and then slowed down to a stop for a light. The automatic transmission stop working! It was like the trans shifted into neutral. I moved the car very slowly into a gas station one block away by racing the engine. The car sat about 4-hrs before I was able to return with my pick-up and a car tow dolly. I started the car and discovered the transmission was working again. I drove the car onto the tow dolly and towed it home. When it was at home the transmission seem to be OK.
Can someone help tell me what may have happen and a fix? The transmission worked great before and immediately after the engine was replaced. It worked great during the 30-mile drive into work, then, something happened. It stop working. Then it started to work again after it sat 4-hrs and after I arrived home.
The preventative maintenance work I was doing included draining and replacing 3-quarts of Honda transmission fluid during each oil/filter change.
Can anyone please walk me through both how to set the mechanical and ignition timing for my engine?
if it was running fine before and the only thing that has changed is the timing belt work, you might be one tooth off on a cam.
OK, if that is the case, you want to look at the fuel pump to see if it is coming on? Power to the fuel pump in the tank is through a black and yellow wire. The wire comes from the PGM FI relay. The relay you said was replaced before. (it is a very common problem with this era Honda). You should use a volt meter and see if, when you are cranking the engine over, you have battery voltage going to the pump. If you do not, you may have to replace this relay again. If you do have power you will need to check at the fuel pump that you have a good signal at the power and ground at the fuel tank connector. That should tell you if you have a problem with the fuel pump or the wiring circuit.
As for the dying I wouldn't think it would be related just offhand. I would be looking at the IAC, idle control valve, for the stalling at idle. If it was a fuel problem I would think that would show up more when you need more fuel (driving) not when you hardly need any (idling).
As far as the battery goes, a car battery is made to start (use a great amount of amps) the recharge and use very little to keep the car running. It should always be pretty well charged up. Deep cycle batteries are made to give out a lower amount of amps for a longer period of time and are made to be run almost all the way down and then be charged back up over time. An automobile battery should have much more cold cranking amps and a deep cycle battery should have much more reserve capacity. A deep cycle battery will work in a car battery scenario for a while but it will usually not be able to keep up with the large starter draw after a time. But it will keep your headlights going a lot longer.
when you replace a radiator you can get some coolant that spills on the car that you can't totally clean away so there may be some steam of vapor from the coolant the may take some time to go away. That is very different from having your car over heat for a few days. If your car overheats even one time you may have damaged the head gasket seal area. (depending on how hot the engine may have gotten) What happens is the expansion of the head and the engine block is different when they get overheated. That expansion difference breaks the seal on the head gasket that seal the two parts together. It may take days sometimes months for the head gasket to show the effects of this damage. It can show up as coolant in the oil, engine runs a little rough on start up, white smoke out of the tailpipe and engine compression pressures leaking into the cooling system.
I don't think you can blame the water pump leaking on the shop that replaced you radiator. (just my personal opinion) The parts of the water pump will not usually change with an overheat that gets to 235F to 260F. However that being said, overheating and excessive pressure in the cooling system from a blown head gasket can push past the seals in the water pump and cause it to leak. All things working normally, when you have your radiator replaced you shouldn't have a overheat problem. Even with a small coolant leak, the car shouldn't over heat until the coolant gets very low.
Couple of things you might want to check. 1. use a 2 or 4 or 5 gas analyzer and check for hydrocarbons out of the radiator while the engine is running and warmed up. 2. put a radiator pressure tester on the radiator and watch the pressure build up as the engine runs and revs up. excessive pressure especially as the engine revs up or the signs of hydrocarbons will tell you that head gasket damage is very possible. The bad thing is no, one can tell when a head gasket went bad. Sometimes age, sometimes coolant electrolysis, sometimes overheat but like I said before, it sometimes takes months for the damaged head gasket to show the signs that is has been damaged.
So, in conclusion... I don't think the shop will do your water pump as a result of the leak that showed up. I would have them test for head gasket damage before they do anymore work on your engine. If you do the water pump / timing belt / balance shaft belt (and balance shaft seal and install a balance shaft seal retainer) normally done together, you will be charged double labor if they have to go back and take off the head to do a head gasket.
I just purchased this car with a friend and a little project. I have managed to make all of the repairs except for this. The car idles rough and is very short on power. When it is at an idle and you floor it (in neutral) it seems somewhat starved for fuel. It revs up very slowly. The best thing I can compare it to is an old carbureted engine with a bad accelerator pump. I also had a check engine light when I first got the car indicating multiple misfires. When I reset the light, it has not come back on. I have driven about 200 miles and it is still off.
So far I have checked the compression. It is 120-/+ in all 6 cylinders.
Fuel pressure is about 40lbs at an idle and if I accelerate it drops. While at an idle, I remove the vacuum line from the regulator and there is no change in pressure. If I pinch off the return line the pressure jumps dramatically. After changing the pressure regulator there is no difference. Since the pressure jumps I am assuming the fuel pump is good. The filter is new.
The plugs are all good.
Injectors were removed and checked. All have good flow and are clean.
I removed the EGR valve and it appears to be closing and sealing.
My next thought is the coils. They are a little bit pricey and I would like to be sure before I do this. Is there any way to test them?
Thanks in advance.
ECM's have been found to cause a no spark. Igniters have too. Some after market distributors fail out of the box.
if you don't put the battery in the remote (the remote is the "key fob" for most cars) will the car start and run normally?
Does putting the battery in the remote make the alarm go off instantly or is there a slight delay. It might be that the panic may be stuck on in the remote. does taking the battery back out of the remote turn the alarm off?
you don't have a second remote?