I'm at school away from home and my alternator went for the third time. I was busy, so I let the car sit in a parking lot from the beginning of October when it was warm, to mid November when it got to around freezing (not continuously freezing, but this is the first cold weather I've had with the car.
I had a lot of AAA towing miles left as I'm the only one in my family who drives a non-leased car. When the truck driver came with the flatbed, the car started up and ran since there was still juice left in the battery. The truck driver was able to drive it up on to his flatbed, but he hit the bed HARD on my long wheel base car when he was driving it up his flat bed. It did not make a nice noise. I'm talking you could see the bottom of the car flexing a fairly decent amount. He had to give it a lot of gas when it got stuck. I'm pretty sure the car's supposed to be towed on a dolly now, or a longer bed. This is where I think it may have happened, but I was not there for when they got the car off the bed.
So in order for the tow truck driver to get the car up on the truck, he would have had to give it power and would have said something if the gears were slipping.
When I got the car back from being fixed, the guy at the shop called me up and said the transmission had a minor problem. When I get there, he tells me it only goes in reverse and you have to give it power to move it. I don't know why I paid before I inspected the car, I guess you're supposed to trust people you're already paying hundreds of dollars to for a simple alternator job.
The second time I had it towed, after I got to the shop, AAA called a driver with a much longer bed that was much less steep, and the car wouldn't go up in the gear it's stuck in. It had to be dragged on, opposed to when the guy just drove it up on the bed the first time.
If someone could point me to some possible liability laws in NY on the tow truck drivers part or the shop's part, let me know.
I played with the transmission a bit to try and figure out what's wrong; had to get some details even though it would most likely damage it more. I don't care about damaging it more since the car's worth, at max, was $2000 when the transmission was good. I also don't really need a car.
[b]The progression of the problem:[/b]
When I first picked it up, it would only go in reverse. When it was in Drive, you could floor it and it wouldn't hit the rev limiter and it wouldn't move.
I drove it downhill for a 1/2 mile away from the shop. Then it got weirder. I was sitting in a parking lot moping that my beautiful classic luxury American automobile was destroyed. I got frustrated and floored it about 4/5 the way to the red line in drive when it wouldn't go forward. It lurched in to gear and would finally start going in 2nd, and it wouldn't shift when it should, only stayed in 2nd. At this point, it would no longer go in reverse.
I got the car towed back to my school. I drove it to the liquor store 2 miles from my school because it was a Friday night and I wanted to show how badly my car was messed up to my friend. I was trying the reverse again to get out of the lot when it kicked back in. A new situation arose: I could go in reverse, but I could also shift the car in to 2nd. It would stay in 2nd until it felt it was supposed to shift, when the gears would slip and I'd lose power. I had to keep it under 2500 rpm to prevent it from attempting to shift and slipping.
I bought this car from the son of a 95 year old ex-cop who probably died in it. My parents knew the old guy, and he most definitely babied the car. It only has 107k miles on it and there has been regular maintenance with only synthetic oil. My car NEVER had a transmission problem for the 1000 miles I've driven it. I drove it across NY from Buffalo to NYC.
The car is in beautiful condition. There is only minimal rust. With the care and preventative maintenance I had taken with the car, it would have lasted me to 300k; these old 4.6l v8's are built like tank engines.
if it's the 30A fuel injector fuse, it powers up the pcm power relay and the fuel pump relay and goes to the alternator.
does it blow right away or does it take some time? If it blows right away, you have to look for a short to ground in the circuits. If it blows after you drive for a while you may have to separate the circuits and see if you can narrow down what circuit is the problem.
it's going to be tough to find if it takes a while to blow the fuse. You will need something that can measure the amp draw on the different circuits while the car is driven and see how much the draw is. Try looking at the wire harness for anywhere it might rub on the engine or the body and rub through. Wiggle the harness to see if you can make it blow the fuse.
a direct short would be easier to find. They make tools that send a tone through the circuit and you can follow the wiring until the signal stops and that's where you look for the short.
Surprisingly, the belt is not broken, only stretched a great deal. I had no problem fitting the belt back on according the diagram on the inside of the hood, only of course there is too much slack. Assuming I have no problem putting a new serpentine belt back on, I was just wondering about two things.
1. Assuming the water pump is fine, (put in a year ago), instead of coolant, can I fill the overfill tank with plain water, then drive the car the 5 miles to my house, drain the system, then refill with water again, drain, and maybe repeat the process again before putting in the coolant/water mixture? I don't know how to reverse flush the system, though I do have a water hose at the house.
2. Can I trust the oil in the car to drive home with? It's due for an oil change anyway, just wondering if overheating the engine might have destroyed the viscosity of the oil so it shouldn't be driven even 5 miles.
Any advice is sincerely appreciated.
I can attach photos of engine if clarity is needed.
I noticed that the vehicle started a noise (helicopter) if in park or in neutral, but noise would go away if in reverse, low or drive.
Any thoughts as to what part/parts have failed?
PCV valve. This is not an easy part to change on this vehicle.
It is located up front next to the Exhaust Manifold. However, there is an Exhaust Manifold Cover in the way. The Problem is that the bolts are siezed.
What I want to know is, do I need the cover? Can I torch or cut it off and won't have any problems?
if it is water, check the drain for the heater box that goes outside. It's probably plugged up
I bought 6 AGSF32FM plugs. I do not have a guage but the gaps on all of them visually look consistant side by side.
The gap required for the car is .044.
The Parts Guy at my Ford dealer tells me that the mechanics don't bother gapping the plugs, and just pop them in.
Other people have told me to do so.
I have two questions: does anyone know the gap of the plug virgin out of the box? Is it .044?
Secondly, do you gap your plugs or no more?
Clarity is appreciated.
The three spark plugs in the front are easily accessible but the three in the rear look difficult. I have a spark plug socket, ratchet, and ratchet extension. Would I be able to replace these and the wires, myself easily, or should I pay $200 for a professional to do the work?
Do you also recommend Anti-Seize gel and Dielectric Grease? Thanks.
Btw, I have read in other forums that many people say that the 3.0V6 Vulcan is a very reliable engine. True?
After the engine warms up, and I use the car throughout the day, the light no longer appears.
Is this normal? Is it designed to do an ABS system check once a day, and only when cold?
I have a Mercury Monterey 2005 just lately it started to have a problem at first it would sputter then run fine and only about once a month. Then it started getting worse with it stalling and then it would die after a loud belt squealing sound. It finely had the check engine light come on so I read the code P0340. I had read that this model had a problem with the ECU having water intrusion problems so I ordered a new ECU and installed it myself. But the problem came right back with the Squealing belt sound and the engine just shutting off after resetting the key to off and restarting it works for a few minutes then dies again with the RPM's around 2000.
It has been real bad the last couple of days since we have had heavy rains so that led me to believe it was the ECU. But after replacement still the same. I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor also and still the same. I have read that it could also be the Alternator and that kind of makes sense since the belt squeals every time it happens. The engine runs perfectly until this happens then it just shuts off sometimes I can pump the throttle and it will return to normal but not every time PLEASE HELP!
What should be done is have your vehicle scanned for codes and graph the wheel speed sensors to see what they are doing.
[b]I have a 1998 1.8 zeetec petrol ford focus. I have a problem that when I press the clutch in, the revs go high until the selected gear is engaged when it returns to a reasonable level. When in neutral the revs idle normally and the engine is smooth. It only happens when the clutch is depressed. any help would be appreciated. Thank You in anticipation