I had the same issue after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery on my 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan. Following a video on you tube, I disconnected the battery, neg. then pos. clamped the two cables together with a rubber insulated clamp, like a clamp used to hold wood pieces together. Left for 45 minutes, then reconnected battery cables, pos. first, then neg. Waited 5 minutes. The light did not come on. All systems worked properly when starting vehicle. Checked hours later. Light is still out and system working.
Automatic temp control works well on hot days, fan speed adjusts properly as needed.
Actuators open/close properly under manual control as does fan.
On cold days system sets fan speed on low and will not increase to properly warm the car. Little or no air to rear so rear seat is cold and rear window fogs. On defrost system starts high but drops speed before window clears. Outside temp display is correct. To get higher speed the temp must be set a max and then the system is still not properly setting fan speed. Cabin filter is new.
you can also scan for code P0016. see if the computer sees a mismatched cam/crank correlation.
did you make sure that you didn't let any of the camshafts or the crank move independently of each other? (they could move slightly for sprocket installation) Could cause valve damage...
do not hold the target wheel on the cam to remove of tighten the cam sprocket bolt. that could also cause a no start condition. here's a pic of how the bcam sprocket bolts should be removed and re-tightened.
Please help the codes are as follows.
P0520 Oil pressure switch (replaced in July 2017 but the oil pressure light is back on now)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (Replaced last month but the code is back on again)
PP2111 Throttle actuator control system (Replaced throttle body same code)
P0642 sensor reference voltage A
P2122 throttle pedal position sensor/switch D
In a similar thread a Dodge mech said to replace the oil pressure switch again since they are on the same harness and can short each other out. does this sound possible and can either of these sensors cause the rough idle and lack of throttle response?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Jason
I went to the auto parts store and picked on up (AC333), but after installing it the car wouldn't run. When I pulled it back out, it was obvious that the part was defective as the brass cap on the end was extended by about 1/4" and the spring was exposed. I put the old IAC back in and returned the part to the auto parts store where they agreed the part clearly was defective.
I next went to a boneyard and pulled an IAC out of another 2001 Stratus I found there. The car didn't like that one either, idling a bit high (around 1200 rpm) and when the engine was reved to around 2000 rpm, there was a hesitation of 3-5 seconds after I took my foot off the gas before the idle would come down again. After 3 days of running the car with that one with no improvement, I took that one back out and put the original one back in.
I then ordered one from an auto parts dealer off of eBay (AC165, which is a replacement for AC333). When it arrived, I installed it in a warm engine, and that that one did the trick, as it brought the idle down to around 650 rpm, and the engine responded properly when I took my foot off the gas. Then next morning though, I was surprised to find the engine wouldn't idle when first started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a few minutes until the engine warmed up. Then the engine would stall out when I stopped at lights, and even stalled when I took my foot off the gas on the highway. So, it seemed I'd gotten another defective IAC. After I managed to get back home, I took that one out and put the old one back in and the engine runs fine again, other than the check engine light coming on and refusing to be cleared.
So, my question is could there be something other than the IAC that is causing the problem, like an incorrect voltage being sent that has affected these other IAC's, or are these replacement IAC's that are made in Mexico not made to the same specifications that the original IAC's were made to...?
Understand IAC is a stepper motor and PCM controls steps in and out. Believe steps range from 0 To 200.
What I don't understand is this:
1) Does the PCM keep a "permanent" IAC count (last step count at shut-down)
OR
2) Does the PCM reset the step count (say back to zero) at Start-Up or Shut Down and retract the Pintel to that base position ?
3) At "Initial" Start (KEY-ON) where should IAC pintel be located?
I have a 2003 Town and Country 3.8 with 160,000 miles. Wife called me 5 miles away from home saying it is bucking intermittently. I met her on the street and drove for 3 miles until I finally got it to do it for me, kinda like the ignition was being turned off and on quickly while driving. Nothing else just a bucking like motion. I told her to go on and watch it. She called me later saying it is running really rough and had stalled but started back up and made it to destination. I went to meet her again to look at it and this time it was running really badly and hard to keep running , not able to put in drive without stalling. I left it and went back the next day thinking that it had never had a tune up so I replaced plugs, wires, and coil in parking lot. It ran like a sewing machine for 5 miles all the way home except for the last 3 blocks where it started to do the very same thing and barely able to chug it's way home. I unplugged the battery and checked over some of the wiring that I had read Town and Countrys had issues with melting on motor but couldn't find any issues with melted wires. I took off plenum and ran a test of injectors and harness with multi-meter and all checked out fine with the correct readings on both. I connected battery and started it up and it was missing but drivable so I went a mile away and suddenly it did it again running so bad It was like it was running on 2 cylinders. Again, chugging it's way home and barely making it. This time when I got out it felt like there was an inferno coming from under neath, when I looked under I could see through a split in the muffler and it looked like there was a fire inside it was so glowing red and hot. Now I'm thinking there's a clog in the exhaust so needing a muffler anyway I cut the exhaust in front of the muffler. This did nothing but simply make it louder. Next step thinking it could be a cat. converter clogged I took out the upstream O2 sensor to relieve the back pressure and again this did nothing, still the same rough, barely running motor that I started with. I did notice that when I disconnect the map sensor it seems to run better at idle but when I plug it back in when running I can count to 5 and it will die every single time. So I bought a map sensor yet again to no avail, still same problem. I now start to look at the fuel pump so I rent a tester and check the pressure. It holds 60 lbs while running with no drop and doesn't bleed off after turning engine off. I bought a scanner at the local orange parts store and checked the codes but all it showed was the map sensor code from where I unplugged it ,although the check engine light has been on for the last 3 years. I cleared the codes with the scanner and the check engine light still comes on but the scanner says there are no codes. Any thoughts before I dump the gas and lite the match ???? !!! Thank you in advance.
I have a 1998 Caravan 3.3L and its been running rough. Most noticeable with accelerating, can't notice it much at idle. Check engine light didn't come on but I checked the codes anyway and got a P0202 ( Injector circuit open - cylinder 2) with a yellow light on the tester.
Now for the weird stuff.
1. Swapped out the connector from Cylinder 2 Inj with cylinder 4 right next to it. I reset the codes, expected the code to now read . . . P0204 Injector circuit open - cylinder 2. However it still read P0202. THAT TELLS ME ITS NOT THE INJECTOR, BUT INSTEAD THE COMPUTER OR WIRING BETWEEN THE INJ AND COMPUTER
2. I don't have a scope so next best thing was to connect a test light across the cyl 2 injector wires (while it was plugged into the cyl 2 injector) light flashes as engine is run. TELLS ME THE COMPUTER IS SENDING A SIGNAL AND THAT THE WIRING IS GOOD BETWEEN THE COMPUTER AND THE INJECTOR
Extra tests for background - in case you're wondering:
* Checked Cyl 2 injector with a ohmmeter - reads 13 ohms (same as cyl 4 inj)
* Checked Cyl 2 injector with DC12v with connector removed. Could hear it clicking when 12v was applied.
* With engine running, unplugged inj 2 - noticeable drop in engine pwr. TELLS ME ITS WORKING
* With engine running, unplugged inj 4 - same amount of drop in engine pwr.
So my question: What could be causing the rough running/lack of power? If its really Inj 2 that is bad, why didn't the fault move to Inj 4 when swapped.
If Inj 2 is stuck open, wouldn't I see smoke at tailpipe due to rich?
Since this is a pretty involved procedure to replace an injector, any other ideas on what could be causing this?