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Re: Flashing light on rear window defroster makes climate panel inoperative.

1/5/2025

I had the same issue after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery on my 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan. Following a video on you tube, I disconnected the battery, neg. then pos. clamped the two cables together with a rubber insulated clamp, like a clamp used to hold wood pieces together. Left for 45 minutes, then reconnected battery cables, pos. first, then neg. Waited 5 minutes. The light did not come on. All systems worked properly when starting vehicle. Checked hours later. Light is still out and system working.


Automatic temp control

2011 Chrysler 300C

Automatic temp control works well on hot days, fan speed adjusts properly as needed.

Actuators open/close properly under manual control as does fan.

On cold days system sets fan speed on low and will not increase to properly warm the car. Little or no air to rear so rear seat is cold and rear window fogs. On defrost system starts high but drops speed before window clears. Outside temp display is correct. To get higher speed the temp must be set a max and then the system is still not properly setting fan speed. Cabin filter is new.


Re: TRANSMISSION

have you done this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7_Do8JQWJ8


REMOVING LOWER DASH SECTION FROM A 2013 GRAND CARAVAN

Hi, I am going to run the power cable from my radar detector acroos the to of my windshield, down the pillar, under the dash and into the back of the lower dash. There is a cubby hole below the cup holders, and the cigarette lighter type plugs are at the bottom of this center dash section. Trouble is I cannot find how it is attached!


Re: replaced timing chain

I know you said that you triple checked the timing but is that rotating the engine and then verifying the marks all line up in the correct positions? Does the engine sound normal when it is cranking?



you can also scan for code P0016. see if the computer sees a mismatched cam/crank correlation.



did you make sure that you didn't let any of the camshafts or the crank move independently of each other? (they could move slightly for sprocket installation) Could cause valve damage...



do not hold the target wheel on the cam to remove of tighten the cam sprocket bolt. that could also cause a no start condition. here's a pic of how the bcam sprocket bolts should be removed and re-tightened.


Re: 1999 Dodge Durango 5.2 slt

Great help guys. Thanks.


Re: Stubborn Dodge Caravan ignition lock cylinder

There is no problem in the ignition switch according to me replace the ignition cylinder and get the problem resolved.


1992 dodge dynasty 3.3L

I am stumped! I have a 1992 dodge dynasty 3.3L and have been working on it all week. I have been searching the net everywhere for 2 days and can not find the fix for this car. So here's the problem a friend was driving along and the car stalled out and it will crank, but will not start back up. I have replaced the ASD, cam and crank sensor, the coil, the computer deal on the passenger side fender wall (sorry cant remember what it was called), checked all fuses and relays under the hood and inside of vehicle. I have looked over all the wires and connectors all seem to be ok. When I turn they key over the oil, fuel, and check gauges light comes on and all go off except the check gauges light stays on. I tried to get codes doing they key switch on and off and it does nothing. I took a cover off of the asd relay and held a metal tester tip to it and the fuel pump will kick on, but still will not start. Theres no spark at the plugs or coil. I tried replacing with new ones also. I was going to order ignition switch next. If anyone could send me in the right direction for this fix (besides taking to a shop or junkyard) I would appreciate it very much. Thanks!


No crank no start

I have a 2003 T and C LX with a 3.3. Wont turn over. My batt. and starter test good have replaced Elc. Ing. switch but not the key switch. Finely get it to start then dies after a few sec. then no crank over. iam at a lost any help would be great . TKS.


96 cirrus won't start

I am stumped. Have a 1996 cirrus 2.5l v6 that has fuel pressure (50lb+/-), has compression, new plugs and wires, new crank sensor, and checked spark on 2,4,6 cylinders (easy to get at) 2 and 6 have spark but not 4 and engine cranks but will not start. Can someone HELP?


2006 Durango 5.7 Hemi rough idle/ETC problem

I have a somewhat common issue 06 Durango 5.7 hemi that has the following codes. It all started while driving and it died all of sudden with a flashing ETC light. It now will start but the rpm jump up and down from 700-1500rpm in any gear with little throttle response. The engine will not get over 1500 rpms driving but it seems the pedal is responding to pushing it but no response. I took it to the dealer and they were confused and said it appeared to be a PCM issue and wanted 2k to fix it. I have replaced the PCM computer from a mopar programmer with vin/mileage and a used throttle body with the same response thinking it was the TPS that was attached to it. I am at a loss and don't want to replace the pedal positioning sensor that's 200$ before dropping another 200$ at another dealer to troubleshoot.

Please help the codes are as follows.

P0520 Oil pressure switch (replaced in July 2017 but the oil pressure light is back on now)

P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (Replaced last month but the code is back on again)

PP2111 Throttle actuator control system (Replaced throttle body same code)

P0642 sensor reference voltage A

P2122 throttle pedal position sensor/switch D



In a similar thread a Dodge mech said to replace the oil pressure switch again since they are on the same harness and can short each other out. does this sound possible and can either of these sensors cause the rough idle and lack of throttle response?



Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jason


2001 Dodge Stratus ES 2.7L Keeps Blowing IAC Valves

I've got a 2001 Dodge Stratus ES 2.7L which I purchased new. The check engine light came on recently and although the car still runs just fine, the error code indicated that it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). Not wanting to spend the $169 for the part that the garage I brought my car to wanted to charge me, I decided I'd rather just change it myself as it's easily accessible and only held on by two bolts, as well as being able to clear the code once the problem is gone.



I went to the auto parts store and picked on up (AC333), but after installing it the car wouldn't run. When I pulled it back out, it was obvious that the part was defective as the brass cap on the end was extended by about 1/4" and the spring was exposed. I put the old IAC back in and returned the part to the auto parts store where they agreed the part clearly was defective.



I next went to a boneyard and pulled an IAC out of another 2001 Stratus I found there. The car didn't like that one either, idling a bit high (around 1200 rpm) and when the engine was reved to around 2000 rpm, there was a hesitation of 3-5 seconds after I took my foot off the gas before the idle would come down again. After 3 days of running the car with that one with no improvement, I took that one back out and put the original one back in.



I then ordered one from an auto parts dealer off of eBay (AC165, which is a replacement for AC333). When it arrived, I installed it in a warm engine, and that that one did the trick, as it brought the idle down to around 650 rpm, and the engine responded properly when I took my foot off the gas. Then next morning though, I was surprised to find the engine wouldn't idle when first started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a few minutes until the engine warmed up. Then the engine would stall out when I stopped at lights, and even stalled when I took my foot off the gas on the highway. So, it seemed I'd gotten another defective IAC. After I managed to get back home, I took that one out and put the old one back in and the engine runs fine again, other than the check engine light coming on and refusing to be cleared.



So, my question is could there be something other than the IAC that is causing the problem, like an incorrect voltage being sent that has affected these other IAC's, or are these replacement IAC's that are made in Mexico not made to the same specifications that the original IAC's were made to...?


turn signal bulbs

Stupid question - when changing the turn signal bulbs on a 1978 Dodge B200 van, what is the difference (if any) between an 1157 and a 1016 bulb?


no power to coil and fuel pump, no start

1992 dodge Dakota 3.9 just stopped while driving. New coil, new crank sensor and cam sensor. I'm not getting NO power to coil or fuel pump.


03 T&C radiator fan troubles

Replaced thermostat, which looked like it had been in battle. I was trying to test the electrical, but can't for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the radiator fan connectors. I removed the red pin, but can't figure out where to press to pull it off. I've tried with a screwdriver and without but there's not a lot of room to get a good look at it. I don't want to break it but it's really frustrating


94 Dodge Ram2500 puking

150,000 Mi. New fuel pump, plugs air filter,map,tps,EGR...everything.7000 miles later no warning...no check engine light...just lost drive power up hill. 5 speed Manual tranny. 40mph to 20 mph in less than 200 ft. Runs fine at start up. Operating temp...rough no power. Cut off Cat...no difference, just loud. Helllllp.


IAC Operation dodge caravan

1994 Dodge Caravan 3.3L

Understand IAC is a stepper motor and PCM controls steps in and out. Believe steps range from 0 To 200.

What I don't understand is this:



1) Does the PCM keep a "permanent" IAC count (last step count at shut-down)

OR

2) Does the PCM reset the step count (say back to zero) at Start-Up or Shut Down and retract the Pintel to that base position ?

3) At "Initial" Start (KEY-ON) where should IAC pintel be located?


Chrysler Town and Country won't start

2004 Chrysler Town and Country won't start. Lights, radio and horn works just fine. You can hear the clicking from the starter but the car makes no sound when you try to turn it over


Dodge Ram 1500 quit running fuel leak

2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2 v8 Was driving and truck quit running and there was fuel leaking on ground. Change fuel pump and now have problems with the truck running after it warms up. It will run as long as your moving but when you stop it cuts out and dies. Have to wait sometimes for awhile for it to start. Have change cam and crank sensors with no luck. its starts right up and sounds great and then cuts out and sputters then dies. Please help.


'03 TOWN AND COUNTRY RUNNING PROBLEM

'03 TOWN AND COUNTRY RUNNING PROBLEM

I have a 2003 Town and Country 3.8 with 160,000 miles. Wife called me 5 miles away from home saying it is bucking intermittently. I met her on the street and drove for 3 miles until I finally got it to do it for me, kinda like the ignition was being turned off and on quickly while driving. Nothing else just a bucking like motion. I told her to go on and watch it. She called me later saying it is running really rough and had stalled but started back up and made it to destination. I went to meet her again to look at it and this time it was running really badly and hard to keep running , not able to put in drive without stalling. I left it and went back the next day thinking that it had never had a tune up so I replaced plugs, wires, and coil in parking lot. It ran like a sewing machine for 5 miles all the way home except for the last 3 blocks where it started to do the very same thing and barely able to chug it's way home. I unplugged the battery and checked over some of the wiring that I had read Town and Countrys had issues with melting on motor but couldn't find any issues with melted wires. I took off plenum and ran a test of injectors and harness with multi-meter and all checked out fine with the correct readings on both. I connected battery and started it up and it was missing but drivable so I went a mile away and suddenly it did it again running so bad It was like it was running on 2 cylinders. Again, chugging it's way home and barely making it. This time when I got out it felt like there was an inferno coming from under neath, when I looked under I could see through a split in the muffler and it looked like there was a fire inside it was so glowing red and hot. Now I'm thinking there's a clog in the exhaust so needing a muffler anyway I cut the exhaust in front of the muffler. This did nothing but simply make it louder. Next step thinking it could be a cat. converter clogged I took out the upstream O2 sensor to relieve the back pressure and again this did nothing, still the same rough, barely running motor that I started with. I did notice that when I disconnect the map sensor it seems to run better at idle but when I plug it back in when running I can count to 5 and it will die every single time. So I bought a map sensor yet again to no avail, still same problem. I now start to look at the fuel pump so I rent a tester and check the pressure. It holds 60 lbs while running with no drop and doesn't bleed off after turning engine off. I bought a scanner at the local orange parts store and checked the codes but all it showed was the map sensor code from where I unplugged it ,although the check engine light has been on for the last 3 years. I cleared the codes with the scanner and the check engine light still comes on but the scanner says there are no codes. Any thoughts before I dump the gas and lite the match ???? !!! Thank you in advance.


2005 Dodge Dakota O2 sensor

I have an 05 Dodge Dakota V6 4WD SLT. I'm trying to replace the right side downstream O2 sensor. I can't see how to get to the electrical connector. The wires disappear over the tranny. Is there a way to get to the connector without disassembling something?


heaters not working

my 98 town & country wont push hot water thru the heater core, Iv'e plugged the return side, and run the engine till I got hot water out the return hose. then I hooked it back together, and got heat. I let the car cool down and restarted the engine, let it get up to running temp and no heat from the heater, both hoses were cold going into the core and out. Has anyone got anyone got any ideas? oh and nomatter what I do I cant get any heat out of the rear heater. please help!!


Injector bad? 1998 Caravan

Here's one for you to noodle on. Its got me baffled.



I have a 1998 Caravan 3.3L and its been running rough. Most noticeable with accelerating, can't notice it much at idle. Check engine light didn't come on but I checked the codes anyway and got a P0202 ( Injector circuit open - cylinder 2) with a yellow light on the tester.



Now for the weird stuff.



1. Swapped out the connector from Cylinder 2 Inj with cylinder 4 right next to it. I reset the codes, expected the code to now read . . . P0204 Injector circuit open - cylinder 2. However it still read P0202. THAT TELLS ME ITS NOT THE INJECTOR, BUT INSTEAD THE COMPUTER OR WIRING BETWEEN THE INJ AND COMPUTER

2. I don't have a scope so next best thing was to connect a test light across the cyl 2 injector wires (while it was plugged into the cyl 2 injector) light flashes as engine is run. TELLS ME THE COMPUTER IS SENDING A SIGNAL AND THAT THE WIRING IS GOOD BETWEEN THE COMPUTER AND THE INJECTOR



Extra tests for background - in case you're wondering:

* Checked Cyl 2 injector with a ohmmeter - reads 13 ohms (same as cyl 4 inj)

* Checked Cyl 2 injector with DC12v with connector removed. Could hear it clicking when 12v was applied.

* With engine running, unplugged inj 2 - noticeable drop in engine pwr. TELLS ME ITS WORKING

* With engine running, unplugged inj 4 - same amount of drop in engine pwr.



So my question: What could be causing the rough running/lack of power? If its really Inj 2 that is bad, why didn't the fault move to Inj 4 when swapped.



If Inj 2 is stuck open, wouldn't I see smoke at tailpipe due to rich?



Since this is a pretty involved procedure to replace an injector, any other ideas on what could be causing this?


What does it mean

I was driving my 2000 Dodge Durango and the abs and brake light came on and it was making a sound of something running. I shut the truck off and something was still on.. Then my check engine light also came on.


charging system on older rv

i have a 1978 dodge tradesman (b200) rv.new problem is with head lights on engine stalls upon stop. ping,charge gauge drops to discharge prior to stall.with headlights off no stall.allso very hard to restart after stall. alternator and voltage regulator replaced 6 m0. ago fuel fiter replaced 2 days ago runs much better but still didnt solve problem. i pulled positive battery cable when running no change motor ran fine

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