Last time it started it wouldnt hold an idol, it just died if i let off the gas. Now it wont start at all. I replace the relays, replaced the starter, replaced the battery, I took the spark plugs out, turned the flywheel manually, AND I checked all the fuses(all good every one of them even the hidden). If I put my foot on the break when I turn the key nothing happens the lights in the dash don’t let up there’s no beings nothing happens except for once there was this weird click click click click click coming from the glove box. If I take my foot off the break and turn the key all the lights come on like they’re supposed to the beings happen like they’re supposed to the fuel pump and gauges everything works all the way to the starter clicking on the fly wheel . But it will not start. What the hell is wrong with my Dodge? please if you have any idea I would love to hear it.
Dodge Grand Caravan engine does not start
Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
After replacing the Rocker Arm the engine ceased to start.
The engine starts if press the accelerator pedal.
It only works at of more than 1500 rpm. It works poorly, shoots.
Then I saw that the poor insulation of the wires on the Fuel Injector.
I wraped wires. The engine began to start and stall.
if press the accelerator pedal the engine starts. works badly, shoots.
Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
the wiper does not work with a delay.
When turn on in the first position, the windscreen wiper works once. Then it starts working when turn on the fast position.
But it does not work with a pause.
Washer Switch replaced a new one.
I have a 2003 T and C LX with a 3.3. Wont turn over. My batt. and starter test good have replaced Elc. Ing. switch but not the key switch. Finely get it to start then dies after a few sec. then no crank over. iam at a lost any help would be great . TKS.
I am stumped. Have a 1996 cirrus 2.5l v6 that has fuel pressure (50lb+/-), has compression, new plugs and wires, new crank sensor, and checked spark on 2,4,6 cylinders (easy to get at) 2 and 6 have spark but not 4 and engine cranks but will not start. Can someone HELP?
I have a somewhat common issue 06 Durango 5.7 hemi that has the following codes. It all started while driving and it died all of sudden with a flashing ETC light. It now will start but the rpm jump up and down from 700-1500rpm in any gear with little throttle response. The engine will not get over 1500 rpms driving but it seems the pedal is responding to pushing it but no response. I took it to the dealer and they were confused and said it appeared to be a PCM issue and wanted 2k to fix it. I have replaced the PCM computer from a mopar programmer with vin/mileage and a used throttle body with the same response thinking it was the TPS that was attached to it. I am at a loss and don't want to replace the pedal positioning sensor that's 200$ before dropping another 200$ at another dealer to troubleshoot.
Please help the codes are as follows.
P0520 Oil pressure switch (replaced in July 2017 but the oil pressure light is back on now)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (Replaced last month but the code is back on again)
PP2111 Throttle actuator control system (Replaced throttle body same code)
P0642 sensor reference voltage A
P2122 throttle pedal position sensor/switch D
In a similar thread a Dodge mech said to replace the oil pressure switch again since they are on the same harness and can short each other out. does this sound possible and can either of these sensors cause the rough idle and lack of throttle response?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
This is weird but I ve had good Luck here. Driver side Power window stuck about 1/2 way up. It wont go any higher. It will , however, go down...no matter which way you toggle the Switch. Being Winter this is sort of important LOL. Is this a Switch Problem? Rest of the Cluster works fine
2005 Dodge Ram 1500, 4-wheel drive gear shift has no resistance, feels like it's not connected to anything, unable to get truck out of 4-wheel drive. Help!
I've got a 2001 Dodge Stratus ES 2.7L which I purchased new. The check engine light came on recently and although the car still runs just fine, the error code indicated that it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). Not wanting to spend the $169 for the part that the garage I brought my car to wanted to charge me, I decided I'd rather just change it myself as it's easily accessible and only held on by two bolts, as well as being able to clear the code once the problem is gone.
I went to the auto parts store and picked on up (AC333), but after installing it the car wouldn't run. When I pulled it back out, it was obvious that the part was defective as the brass cap on the end was extended by about 1/4" and the spring was exposed. I put the old IAC back in and returned the part to the auto parts store where they agreed the part clearly was defective.
I next went to a boneyard and pulled an IAC out of another 2001 Stratus I found there. The car didn't like that one either, idling a bit high (around 1200 rpm) and when the engine was reved to around 2000 rpm, there was a hesitation of 3-5 seconds after I took my foot off the gas before the idle would come down again. After 3 days of running the car with that one with no improvement, I took that one back out and put the original one back in.
I then ordered one from an auto parts dealer off of eBay (AC165, which is a replacement for AC333). When it arrived, I installed it in a warm engine, and that that one did the trick, as it brought the idle down to around 650 rpm, and the engine responded properly when I took my foot off the gas. Then next morning though, I was surprised to find the engine wouldn't idle when first started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a few minutes until the engine warmed up. Then the engine would stall out when I stopped at lights, and even stalled when I took my foot off the gas on the highway. So, it seemed I'd gotten another defective IAC. After I managed to get back home, I took that one out and put the old one back in and the engine runs fine again, other than the check engine light coming on and refusing to be cleared.
So, my question is could there be something other than the IAC that is causing the problem, like an incorrect voltage being sent that has affected these other IAC's, or are these replacement IAC's that are made in Mexico not made to the same specifications that the original IAC's were made to...?
Current Vehicle:2014 Dodge Grand Caravan
Posted Today, 03:05 PM
I have a 2014 Grand Caravan. 2 months ago the radio started cutting in and out. After awhile it stopped working all together.
the clock still shows the time
CDs still work and has sound
AUX still works and has sound
radio display still works and I can change stations BUT NO SOUND (both FM and AM)
I pulled the radio out and there are 2 connections. One a cluster of wires and one a single 90 degree bent wire (Antenna I assume).
I took the clips off and disconnected the wire to check if it was dirty but it looked clean. If I wiggled it and held it in a particular way I would hear the radio playing but as soon as I let it go it would stop. I then tried to bend the little teeth inside the wire that came from the dash to see if it was just loose but again it wouldn't work without holding it, or pushing it to the side.
Is there any easy fix to this?
Ok, I ve got the Staps off, the lines loose and its just sitting there...PLastic tank. I have a leak on the TOP side of the tank. Is there any way to access it from the trunk from above? Failing that... How the Heck do you get it to Drop out?
Thanks in Advance
Stupid question - when changing the turn signal bulbs on a 1978 Dodge B200 van, what is the difference (if any) between an 1157 and a 1016 bulb?
Please can someone help me by telling me if this mini van is a Chrysler Town & County Touring? ?Thank u
After going thru a nightmare with the pushbutton start on my 2011 Dodge Journey R/T, I'm wondering how hard it would be to revert back to the good old key ignition. Thanks for any thoughts, Steve
After jump start, 2008 T&C will not accelerate
So the car I got has been sitting in the same spot and hasn't physically moved in like 2 or 3 months. I got it tagged and titled today so I was going to move it closer to the house to clean it up and when I tried, both rear tires would move very slightly. Maybe a half inch and then locks and slides instead of rotating. I had the e-brake up the entire time since it was sitting on a slight incline. I was doing some research into and it may be the e brake line may be a little rusted and may give way. So I tried giving it some movement back and forth to try to free it but it didn't do much. I also saw that the brake shoe may be rusted onto the brake pad since I had the e-brake on the entire time and was wondering what you have in mind in terms of what may be the reasoning they aren't giving and rotating and maybe the resolution to the issue.
My intrepid is overheating when I drive it for to long it stop on me and don't start for about 30-45 minutes can someone tell me what's wrong and is it fixable..?
what was the reasoning behind changing each one of those parts?
are the plugs and wires in really good condition? (changed recently)
you should scan your van and see if there are any codes. See if there are any p0300 series codes. lean or rich codes. Then see if you can find someplace that you can drive the vehicle with the scanner on when it acts up. It could be either a fuel problem, running too lean or it could be a secondary ignition problem.
Look at your fuel trims when it's acting up. Are they adding fuel? Does the injector pulse width go way up? (starving for fuel)
check for excessive back pressure in the exhaust.
crank or cam sensor codes? Bad sensor, sensor connection, wiring rubbing through anywhere?
I am not a tranny expert but...
it could be the valve bore is worn. it could also be debris in the fluid. The thing to check is drop the pan and see if there is debris in the pan. If you have debris in the pan you're probably looking at an replacement tranny. If there isn't much debris then a valve body replacement may take care of your trans. Depending on the year and stuff you may need a solenoid pack too.
temperature makes a difference in the fluid viscosity and also changes the clearances between the metal parts.
Check for trans TSB's for your year make and model. there are some that you check the production numbers for.
1992 dodge Dakota 3.9 just stopped while driving. New coil, new crank sensor and cam sensor. I'm not getting NO power to coil or fuel pump.
hello! sorry for the vague title, but the forum would not let me post my actual question because it was apparently too close to existing topics. i own a 2004 pt cruiser and need to order some oem front suspension bushings for it. the car has over 130k on it and i have never changed them, so i want to do the whole group of them in one shot. my normal site. does not have them all in stock, and i want to order them all from one place to cut down on shipping costs. does anyone else have a good oem part site to order from?
Hello. I have a 2006 dodge durango, 4.7 liter. I drove it 5 miles and the temperature gauge shot up.Got it home and it started spewing coolant.It's coming from the casing behind the thermostat housing. Not sure what part it is or what caused it to leak. It's on the passenger side of engine. Has a pulley on it. It's my daily driver. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Replaced thermostat, which looked like it had been in battle. I was trying to test the electrical, but can't for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the radiator fan connectors. I removed the red pin, but can't figure out where to press to pull it off. I've tried with a screwdriver and without but there's not a lot of room to get a good look at it. I don't want to break it but it's really frustrating
150,000 Mi. New fuel pump, plugs air filter,map,tps,EGR...everything.7000 miles later no warning...no check engine light...just lost drive power up hill. 5 speed Manual tranny. 40mph to 20 mph in less than 200 ft. Runs fine at start up. Operating temp...rough no power. Cut off Cat...no difference, just loud. Helllllp.
1994 Dodge Caravan 3.3L
Understand IAC is a stepper motor and PCM controls steps in and out. Believe steps range from 0 To 200.
What I don't understand is this:
1) Does the PCM keep a "permanent" IAC count (last step count at shut-down)
2) Does the PCM reset the step count (say back to zero) at Start-Up or Shut Down and retract the Pintel to that base position ?
3) At "Initial" Start (KEY-ON) where should IAC pintel be located?
2004 Chrysler Town and Country won't start. Lights, radio and horn works just fine. You can hear the clicking from the starter but the car makes no sound when you try to turn it over
why does my ignition coils keep burning out
Replace to the computer in 96 Dodge Caravan now the vehicle will not start its will turn on all electronics you get fan belt everything but the starter will not crank is this the anti theft system and if so how do i bypass
I have a 96 Chrysler town and country V-6 3.3 it up and died one day and hasn't started since.have gotten new starter,replaced downstream 02,egr value,new battery,and new plugs and wires still wont start.i only have park,all other gears are like in neutral.can not get it in any gear.and transmission seems like it is locked.have tried removing spark plugs and wrenching on flywheel.and the only thing that happened was a bent wrench.i don't know what to do.SOMEONE PLEASE HELP.
2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2 v8 Was driving and truck quit running and there was fuel leaking on ground. Change fuel pump and now have problems with the truck running after it warms up. It will run as long as your moving but when you stop it cuts out and dies. Have to wait sometimes for awhile for it to start. Have change cam and crank sensors with no luck. its starts right up and sounds great and then cuts out and sputters then dies. Please help.
1997 Chrysler GS Voyager 3.3L (EGA):
Decided to renew the coolant (previously had just water) in the engine/radiator. Prior to this, the radiator showed no signs of leaks, but after renewing the coolant, there is coolant seeping from behind the brass trans cooler fitting (screwed into the plastic tank). This internal fitting protrudes out from the plastic tank and is secured only by a thin metal washer and thin nut (refer to attached image of an identical fitting).
So, just to be clear: the coolant is leaking from the body of the plastic radiator (behind the fitting).
The nut wasn't very tight, so I tried tightening to stop the leakage, but didn't seem to make much difference as coolant was still seeping out from behind the washer. I didn't want to tighten it excessively, in case I damaged the plastic tank.
To inspect the fitting, I drained some coolant and removed both nut & washer. There was no o-ring or seal behind the washer. The fitting can be partly pushed into the tank, allowing coolant to escape.
It appears this fitting mates against the internal wall of the radiator when tightened with the nut on the outer wall, but I see no way of sealing the fitting.
So, even though I've tightened the nut, there is still a "gap" in the plastic tank behind the washer, allowing coolant to escape.
Should there be an o-ring, rubber seal (or similar) behind the washer?
Is this repair a simple matter of using a suitable sealant compound?
Can anyone please suggest how to remedy this small leak?
Thank you in advance...
I am attempting to help a buddy with this car that will not start. It is the 4cyl engine. He thought it needed a starter, but he couldn't get it off, and thats how I got involved. This car will NOT CRANK when you turn the key, but the dash lights up and appears to be "ON" like normal, accessories seem to work. He has checked all the fuses ( I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY DONE THIS) and says they are all good. I thought it may be the neutral safety switch, but I believe that is actually inside the transmission in this application, so I have not tested it yet. Here's the catch......I wanted to get it to my garage and really thought if I turned the key to the "run" position, and applied power to the starter solenoid, that it would most likely run and I could simply drive it 25 miles to my place. It cranked over just fine, but will no start. I've also noted I hear no fuel pump (or relay) and I am making an assumption that there is no injector pulse or spark, but that I am NOT CERTAIN of.....just betting.....
There are 5(?) identical part number relay's and they were swapped over one spot (thinking maybe a bad starter relay) and no change noted. Relays back to their original location.
Does anybody recognize any of these issues as a familiar problem? my friend can't really afford a dealer repair, and I'd like to help him out. But, whatever it is, I need to get it figured out!!!
2003 Town and Country 3.8 L... I need to know if there is a serpentine belt that will bypass the a c comp. I need this vehilcle and cant afford the locals repair rates.
89 B250 5.2L, auto. While idling to warmup engine, sometimes now, it will die, most times it will startup immediately. check engine light comes on and stays. At wits end and need some help to figure out what is the problem. dick
My 2001 Dodge Ram pickup 5.2L stalled and wont start. It flashes "no bu5" instead of the odometer reading. Its the weirdest thing I've ever seen. Does anyone know what this means? I scanned for DTC codes and none show up. I've also checked all the fuses and relays and their okay.
Car will start fine when cold. When it reaches normal tempature, it stalls out. It turns over fine the first couple of attempts but then the autoshutdown relay starts clicking, along with the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. With those pieces clicking, the starter wont fully engage and sounds awful. The relays will continue to click even when the vehicle is turned off. Unplugging the cam sensor doesnt make it stop. I need to disconnect the battery for the ASRelay to quit clicking. I cant evem check computer codes while its clicking. (Checking by flipping ignition on/off 3x's) . When i am able to check codes, none are coming up except the battery code.
'03 TOWN AND COUNTRY RUNNING PROBLEM
I have a 2003 Town and Country 3.8 with 160,000 miles. Wife called me 5 miles away from home saying it is bucking intermittently. I met her on the street and drove for 3 miles until I finally got it to do it for me, kinda like the ignition was being turned off and on quickly while driving. Nothing else just a bucking like motion. I told her to go on and watch it. She called me later saying it is running really rough and had stalled but started back up and made it to destination. I went to meet her again to look at it and this time it was running really badly and hard to keep running , not able to put in drive without stalling. I left it and went back the next day thinking that it had never had a tune up so I replaced plugs, wires, and coil in parking lot. It ran like a sewing machine for 5 miles all the way home except for the last 3 blocks where it started to do the very same thing and barely able to chug it's way home. I unplugged the battery and checked over some of the wiring that I had read Town and Countrys had issues with melting on motor but couldn't find any issues with melted wires. I took off plenum and ran a test of injectors and harness with multi-meter and all checked out fine with the correct readings on both. I connected battery and started it up and it was missing but drivable so I went a mile away and suddenly it did it again running so bad It was like it was running on 2 cylinders. Again, chugging it's way home and barely making it. This time when I got out it felt like there was an inferno coming from under neath, when I looked under I could see through a split in the muffler and it looked like there was a fire inside it was so glowing red and hot. Now I'm thinking there's a clog in the exhaust so needing a muffler anyway I cut the exhaust in front of the muffler. This did nothing but simply make it louder. Next step thinking it could be a cat. converter clogged I took out the upstream O2 sensor to relieve the back pressure and again this did nothing, still the same rough, barely running motor that I started with. I did notice that when I disconnect the map sensor it seems to run better at idle but when I plug it back in when running I can count to 5 and it will die every single time. So I bought a map sensor yet again to no avail, still same problem. I now start to look at the fuel pump so I rent a tester and check the pressure. It holds 60 lbs while running with no drop and doesn't bleed off after turning engine off. I bought a scanner at the local orange parts store and checked the codes but all it showed was the map sensor code from where I unplugged it ,although the check engine light has been on for the last 3 years. I cleared the codes with the scanner and the check engine light still comes on but the scanner says there are no codes. Any thoughts before I dump the gas and lite the match ???? !!! Thank you in advance.
I have a 1998 Dodge 1500 king cab two wheel drive, when I try to crank it by the ignition switch it does nothing but when I by pass the ignition switch and use a jumper wire it will only crank with the ignition switch in a certain place, when I slightly move the ignition switch it shuts off. What could be the problem and how hard is it to fix?
5/1/2015 - The past couple days, our 2007 Chrysler Town and Country van, 3.3 V6, shakes when being started the first time each day and the engine light is on. We just had a rebuilt transmission from Chrysler installed four months ago. Can anyone help, please?
I have a 2000 dodge ram 2500 runs great but will not start whenever it rains it cranks like crazy but wont turn over if I wait a day it will start up always starts when it is dry out please help.
If you are working on the battery cables and neutral safety then are you talking about a no crank condition? What is happening when it won't start? When you turn the key to the start position, what happens when it doesn't start?
starter engages the flywheel and cranks the engine over but the engine won't start?
starter doesn't turn the engine but you hear a click from the starter solenoid?
starter solenoid make a lot of clicking noise?
nothing.... no click, it's like you never turned the key to the start position...
Is there any way to free-up an intermittently-stubborn ignition lock cylinder? Steering wheel is not locked, it is in Park, the thing senses that the door is open with a key in the ign., but key will not turn to start engine. Sometimes when it does this I'll jiggle the key &/or jab it in a little harder and it will turn and start. I have used WD-40 and graphite(worked once). Any ideas?
How long should it take to replace the positive battery cables on a 01 Ram 1500?
I have a 94 Dodge Dakota and recently the heater stopped blowing as hot as it used to and takes longer to heat up.(Before this, it used to heat up quick and blow really warm) One day as I was checking and topping off all my fluids, I noticed wires (that were plugged into the firewall on the passenger side) smoking then the heater stopped blowing as hot and doesn't warm up as quick. Any suggestions on what caused this and how to quickly & or easily fix it for cheap? I'm on a tight budget and can't afford another hefty setback. Thank You in advance.
I can't get my 2005 dodge 3500 to shift into drive like it should. I've been told it! concerns a switch somewhere between the brake pedal and shift lever but I don't know where that is or what to do. Help
My anti lock brake and P! Light stays on what fixes this
96 ram 1500 5.2 hard start cold. Engine wont idle stalls hesitates. Chamged coolant temp,air intake , cam pos. sensors also air idle control Starts n runs great warm.
Hi I have a 98 dodge Durango 5.2.
Problem I am having is that it not driving correctly. What is going on is that when I put it on 1,2 and drive itll move very slowly as well sound like it on neutral. I had a scanner check it and it say o2 sensor and neutral switch I am hoping somebody can help me solve the problem.
My 2006 chrysler 300c 5.7l start hard will idle but has no fuel pedal I've changed crankshaft position sensor throttle body pedal sensor not sure what to do next
I have an 05 Dodge Dakota V6 4WD SLT. I'm trying to replace the right side downstream O2 sensor. I can't see how to get to the electrical connector. The wires disappear over the tranny. Is there a way to get to the connector without disassembling something?
you should use a scanner and see what it says about your transmission. sounds like you might be losing your trans. see what you pressures are and if it has the pid for material wear.
you should have a tranny shop look at it. soon
I have a 98 Caravan 3.3 Flex fuel and I’ve been told it needs a new PCM. If I replace it, does that require bringing it in to a dealership to have it programmed for VIN and Mileage?
(If needed, VIN is: 2B4GP45G3WR721898)
Don't even want to start on fixing it if it does.
my 98 town & country wont push hot water thru the heater core, Iv'e plugged the return side, and run the engine till I got hot water out the return hose. then I hooked it back together, and got heat. I let the car cool down and restarted the engine, let it get up to running temp and no heat from the heater, both hoses were cold going into the core and out. Has anyone got anyone got any ideas? oh and nomatter what I do I cant get any heat out of the rear heater. please help!!
Here's one for you to noodle on. Its got me baffled.
I have a 1998 Caravan 3.3L and its been running rough. Most noticeable with accelerating, can't notice it much at idle. Check engine light didn't come on but I checked the codes anyway and got a P0202 ( Injector circuit open - cylinder 2) with a yellow light on the tester.
Now for the weird stuff.
1. Swapped out the connector from Cylinder 2 Inj with cylinder 4 right next to it. I reset the codes, expected the code to now read . . . P0204 Injector circuit open - cylinder 2. However it still read P0202. THAT TELLS ME ITS NOT THE INJECTOR, BUT INSTEAD THE COMPUTER OR WIRING BETWEEN THE INJ AND COMPUTER
2. I don't have a scope so next best thing was to connect a test light across the cyl 2 injector wires (while it was plugged into the cyl 2 injector) light flashes as engine is run. TELLS ME THE COMPUTER IS SENDING A SIGNAL AND THAT THE WIRING IS GOOD BETWEEN THE COMPUTER AND THE INJECTOR
Extra tests for background - in case you're wondering:
* Checked Cyl 2 injector with a ohmmeter - reads 13 ohms (same as cyl 4 inj)
* Checked Cyl 2 injector with DC12v with connector removed. Could hear it clicking when 12v was applied.
* With engine running, unplugged inj 2 - noticeable drop in engine pwr. TELLS ME ITS WORKING
* With engine running, unplugged inj 4 - same amount of drop in engine pwr.
So my question: What could be causing the rough running/lack of power? If its really Inj 2 that is bad, why didn't the fault move to Inj 4 when swapped.
If Inj 2 is stuck open, wouldn't I see smoke at tailpipe due to rich?
Since this is a pretty involved procedure to replace an injector, any other ideas on what could be causing this?
I crank my truck it runs fine. I will go to a store come out and it won't crank. Come back a couple hours later and it will crank right up. Sometimes I will be going down the road and it will quit and won't start for a couple hours. I had it hooked up to a computer and it says it is missing on all eight cylinders (it has done this since I bought it. We have replaced everything but the crank shaft) and O2 Sensor was bad, which we replaced. What could be wrong with it. 96 Dodge ram 1500 2 drive with a 318
i like ford mustang 2015
I was driving my 2000 Dodge Durango and the abs and brake light came on and it was making a sound of something running. I shut the truck off and something was still on.. Then my check engine light also came on.
i have a 1978 dodge tradesman (b200) rv.new problem is with head lights on engine stalls upon stop. ping,charge gauge drops to discharge prior to stall.with headlights off no stall.allso very hard to restart after stall. alternator and voltage regulator replaced 6 m0. ago fuel fiter replaced 2 days ago runs much better but still didnt solve problem. i pulled positive battery cable when running no change motor ran fine
how to put driving belt on 2005 chrysler pacifica ?
I recently took my 07 pacifica to auto zone and they told me my maf map and throttle control sensors were all bad or shorted and the manifold tune solenoid is shorted is there anything that could make all these codes come up or did all of them go out at one time??
'00 cirrus,2.5L, after the vehicle warms up, when you remove the key from the ignition, vehicle keeps running. Went for the obvious ignition switch. Did not fix it. Now my boss gave me the problem, if you pull the asd relay it will shut down. Other than that, I'm pretty frustrated. Charging system is normal, lights, dash, and everything else shuts down.
I have rebuilt a transmission for a 2004 Chrysler pacifica for a customer and when I drive it is leaking grease from the transfer case and I don't know how to fix it. I have tried everything I know.
I have a 1986 ram van B-150 . After driving a few miles, It starts to spudter like its running out of gas. I have replaced all gas in tank. new fuel filter and new ERG valve. But no luck.
I know it's hard to relate a noise by writing about it but I need more information. Where does the noise sound like it's coming from? left side, right side. When does it make the noise? as soon as you put it in drive, when the car starts to roll, at a certain speed, on acceleration, on deceleration, when turning to the right, when turning to the left... what does the noise sound like. A hard knocking, a clicking noise, does it change with wheel speed?
have you checked your lug nut to verify they're all tight?
have you jacked up the wheels and checked the 4wd? there is a vacuum switch activated by the shift selector on the front of the transfer case. check to see if it's working normally.
I replaced the brake light switch assembly and still have no power at the low mount lights. Checked for a wiring diagram but not seeing anything. Someone told me there is a BUS that suns these lights from the computer? Getting ready to take a 10 lb Hammer to it.... but it ain't mine so I can't. LOL any advice would be appreciated.
My wife's 1998 dodge Dakota will sometimes shut down at stop, sometimes hard to restart, other times it will shut down at driving speeds and restart fairly easy ?, and tthen other times it will run fine for 2 or 3 days and again start shutting off ? been told it may be fuel pump, but hate to spend that much $$$ when it could be a relay ?, anyway to test the problem that is less expensive ? no check engine light comes on !
My Dodge Ram 2500 Cummings shifts through all gears fine except for second gear .When the truck goes into second gear it takes forever to shift into third revving the engine really high on rpms. The tuck is automatic. What could be causing this to happen I have checked the fluid and it is fine
I was traveling down the highway this afternoon when my Chrysler 300 started overheating. I instantly pulled the car over and shut the engine off and let it cool off for a few minutes. When I tried to start the engine it would not crank unless I held the accelerator to the floor when it finally started it had a loud clanging noise and would not idle. Could it have jumped time and could that have destroyed the engine. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
87 Chrysler town and country over heating.
I know the list as to why a car may over heat is very long. I have in the last year replaced the rad and hoses put in a new thermostat BUT still it over heats. While driving it today the car over heated going into the red. I turned the heater up full and very cold air came instead of hot. My ? is could my car need a new fan or maybe a water pump?
I have a worn part on my dodge magnum,it make noise every time I a bump hole or anything, here's a pic of area behind the tire..... is this some type of Bushing or Mount??
1997 dodge ram 1500 fuel pump works directly off battery but not off tank connector. battery voltage is 14.5, connector voltage is 8.5. what should I check next?
I have a dodge ram 1500 2012 how do I change the light bulb in the tow mirror
I have a 1996 dodge van 2500 series
I need to know why the fuse keeps blowing
When I push the brake pedal down
2005 dodge neon 2.0. Check engine light popped on and car started acting like it was running out of gas. vehicle will not run over 25 mph without wanting to quit. extremely rough running over 2000 rpm. under 2000 rpm vehicle is fine. could it be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay problem ?
My alarm will arm (horn sounds once, security light on info center is lit), but if a door is opened the alarm does not sound. (I roll down the window, get out of the car, hit the arm/lock button on fob, then reach in and open the door - no honking or flashing lights).
A couple of days ago, someone tried to steal my car and pulled some wires down from under the dash and I had that reconnected by a mechanic.
Where or what is the sensor that sets off the alarm when a door is opened when the alarm is armed?
I have a 98 dodge grand caravan. I had all brake lines replaced. One of the screws cross threaded and now its leaking out of abs and I have no brakes. Trying to figure out the best way to fix it myself cant afford to take it to someone. Is it possible to get rid of the abs all together and just hook brake lines together?
i have a 05 dodge stratus its been idling high after i had someone do some work on it.it would only start sometimes on its own or i would have to get a jump so i bought a new battery and now my car seems to be idling high and at a stop it jerks like it wants to take off and the odometer races up and down.please help!somebody! :roll:
I need help! My car broke down somewhere it can easily get towed. I started it and everything was okay until I drove down the block. I lost my ability to accelerate and by the time I hit the next block I lost my power steering. It shut off so I turned it back on, it just shut off a few seconds later. I tried jumping the battery and it didn't do anything. I have never worked on a car let alone my own, I don't want to make it worse. Can someone help me please? ~Jenks
I am at a loss. It started about a week ago. Driving and the van just died. It is a 92 B250 with a 318 5.2L. Tried to start it and it would crank but i couldn't hear the fuel pump, replaced that 6 months ago. I checked the relays and could not find anything. Tried starting it and it fired up. Drove home.
It did this to me on and off all week and then it just wouldn't restart. I towed him home and hard wired the fuel pump and it works but still wouldn't start. So I went ahead and replaced all the relays and repaired a couple of wires. Still nothing. I replaced the ignition switch it was pretty corroded and it fired up. Went to drive to work made it there, about 40 minutes, and it died down the street from my house on the way back. I replaced the neutral safety switch because had oil in it. I had my transmission rebuilt about 8 months ago. I also replaced the switch plate assembly/cam shaft sensor. I am thinking it may be the crankshaft. I also now do not have any spark and still no power to fuel pump when key is turned. It cranks but doesn't start.
I don't know what else to do??? this is my only car and i need it to take my kids to school and for work. PLEASE HELP!!!
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins, Brake lights and turn signals have quit working. Had mechanic look at it before, he got the brake lights to work but the turn signals had to be flashed by hand and wouldn't work on the rear when the brake lights were on. Any suggestions?
is there a release button for the back hatch on a 02 Durango .
'98 Dakota, bad squeak in front end, no grease or oil helps.
We have recently acquired a '96 Dodge RAM B2500 Conversion Van.
Since winter came around it developed a strange problem just after starting - if we try to put it into reverse with the transmission cold it would sit for around 40-50 seconds doing nothing then it would "bump" hard into gear.
With the AT fluid hot everything works as it should, the Reverse engages smoothly as soon as we move the lever.
Any idea why this happens and how we can fix it?
i have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 4x4 when I make a hard left turn lik[url][/url]e when I make a u turn, my truck jerks when i straighten the wheels. Also sometimes when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear the rpm's jump and the truck jerks.
without know what kind of noise or where in the engine the noise came from I would guess timing component lost it's oil prime. But you should wait until it happens again and see what you have to do to duplicate the noise. Once you know when it might make the noise leave it at a shop over night or something so you can have it happen where a tech can hear the noise.
What year is your truck?
The axle joint might be bad. Does it make the noise along with wheel speed or make the noise only when turning? Torque on the wheel bearing could be a factor too.
need more info
My Grand Caravan's engine has been running good, at low & high speeds, but during the last month it has started to give me trouble with the first start of the day. It feels like it's going to start but it doesn't, it just dye off. I wait a few minutes then it start OK and wouldn't act up until the next morning. It would seem like there is a problem when it gets completely cool overnight.
Today the problem became worse. It wouldn't start and I end up running the battery down. After cranking it with a jump, really fast and hard, it finally started like nothing was wrong. Now I'm scare of using the car. Could this problem be tune up related? All inputs are welcome... Thanks!
you need to check the accuracy of your coolant temp sensor. your low speed fan should come on at 220F and off at 210F, and your high speed fan should come on at 230F and turn off at 220F. (depending on the engine, there is a couple of degrees difference, but, generally) If you use an infrared temp gun at the thermostat housing and the computer and the temp gun are 60 degrees off you should at least check that the CTS is good or not. They are not very expensive. Replacing it would be cheaper than taking it to a shop and having them test it. And if it's not the CTS then if you take it to a shop you can tell them that it has already been replaced so they shouldn't need to look at that. They probably will anyways but you shouldn't pay for that if it's good. (every shop is different though)
other things that can cause the CTS to read wrong is resistance is a problem with the wiring or maybe a bad ground connection. You could read the resistance of the coolant sensor. at about 77F it should have a reading 9 to 11 K ohms. at 212F it should be 640 to 720 ohms. That's resistance across the two prongs of the sensor with the wire harness disconnected. If the sensor ohms out good you're going to have to check the resistance at the wire harness to the computer. Disconnect the computer connectors and see it the readings are still good coming through the harness. If it's still good you might need a computer.
Durango fires right up no problem will idle all day fine. But when you hit accelerator while driving from a complete stop vehical lurches and sputters as if it is going to stall. If you let foot off accelerator and ease back on vehical will drive normal. Then once you stop vehical acts up again. I have noticed after vehical sputters I lose fuel gage as if tank is empty (its not). So I am thinking either electrical or a sensor.
I am working on a 89 dodge pick up with the 3.9L V-6. It has the Holley throttle body on the motor. The motor will not start unless I trickle gas in manually for a couple seconds while starting. After it is running the motor is great, runs good and does not miss. Shut it off and must pour more gas into the throttle body to restart. Any ideas???
year make and model will help to figure out what is happening. What engine does you van have too?
check the performance of your crank sensor. If the lab scope shoes a good pattern when you are having a problem check that your flex plate is not damaged. Another problem could be the tps or the tps connector. But concentrate on the crank sensor first.
you might also want to make sure that you don't have a problem with the basics like secondary ignition components and fuel injectors
Ok so ive checked the ring and that was all solid with no shaking or not loose. After taking the crank shaft sensor out i carefully took a thin piece of wood with a long strip of durable 120 grit sand stripping and cranked it over and over to clean the wheel down there... it was rusty. now its a nice shiny metal...figured ok this was definately a problem....it didnt change a thing tho....unfortuneatly . we also checked the timing with the scanner as you said...everything was ok...this doesnt make sense..Every sensor has been replaced and much more. Why is this thing backfiring like crazy? The backfires happen mostly when slowly slowly slowly letting off the gas pedal. If im giving it and I just take my foot right off the gas instantly theres no backfire. Only when slowly releasing off it. And the similar affect when giving gas...if i go super slow it chugs shakes and backfires but if i give it then it goes fine. STRANGE! The exaust cat has been hollowed. the backfires have blown a big hole out of the side of the muffler. And that other problem still exists of sometimes when starting it it starts in a weird mode were its non responsive to giving it gas. I have to shut it off and keep restarting it until the right mode is in affect and can go...sometimes its like 8-10 starts to get it....I can tell when it starts just by the noise of the motor. When starting it and it starts in non responsive mode it sounds like a diesal running. And you can hear the idle air control sensor just sucking constant. The thing was tested and is ok. Something is causing it to stay open and suck air.
yes, the timing mark for the rear cam (closes to the fire wall) is at about three oclock and will not rotate back to the timing mark
2000 dodge intrepid 3.2v6 when I turn hard to left as I brake car turns off like u turned the key off
2002 pt cruiser 2.4 engine auto/trans car hesitates at 20 mph just started all of a sudden will not advance past 20mph :?: :?:
I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota, My remote key got wet and stopped working. when I opened the door the alarm went off and didn't stop when I put the key in ignition. I started the engine and drove a couple blocks with the alarm sounding. When I shut the truck off I couldn't restart the truck, had to tow it to my house. Any suggestions as to what it could be or how to fix?
I have 1989 dodge b150 6 cylinder that i bought 3 months ago and it worked fine and then one day i try to start it and just got a clicking noise and the next morning i tried to start it and it ran fine for a month then a month i drove around and parked car to talk on phone and it wouldnt start again and had clicking noise and i had to have it towed home.
The next morning it started fine and ran for 2 weeks then it wouldnt start and had clicking noise again so i asked people what to do and the battery voltage tested okay and i got a new starter from autozone and installed it and it still had the clicking noise after the new starter.
So i asked autozone what to do and i tighten and clean the battery terminals and it started but it was stubborn to start but it started so i drove it around the block and 1 hour later i tried to start again and it wouldnt start so i tightened the battery terminals more and added petreleum jelly and it started. The next day wouldnt start again with the clicking noise... i am not sure tightening the battery cables was related to it starting because it seemed to be starting unpredictably anyway.
So it wouldnt start anymore no matter what I did so i charged the battery and jump started it and tested it's voltage (said it was okay) and it still would not start and it had a new starter and everything.
I went to autozone with the old starter (the new one was installed in the vehicle) and the battery and they both tested fine and autozone charged the battery and said:
1. try to start with the charged battery
2. try to use a screwdriver and press it onto both terminals of the starter to start it that way
3. if it still doesn't start follow the clicking noise to locate it
I did all 3 of those things and #2 just made sparks but it wouldn't start and #3 i followed the clicking noise to an item i took a picture of... later they looked at the picture and told me it was the starter relay so i bought a new one... before replacing the starter relay i brought the battery to be tested for a 2nd opinion and it tested fine and on the way out i accidently dropped it and it cracked so i had to buy a new one... i also bought new battery terminal connectors.
Before i installed the new starter relay i installed the new battery and the same exact clicking noise happened... no turn over etc.
After i installed the starter relay the clicking noise disappeared but it was basically the same problem... it was just a faint grumbling noise and the engine would not turn over and van would not start.
i was still using the battery terminal connectors from the old battery so now i removed the old negative one and unsheathed some wires and put it in a new one and after replacing the negative battery terminal connector the car turned over and the engine sounded like it was very close to starting but wouldn't start but at least now it was turning over.
I replaced the positive terminal connector and the same thing happened.
I tightened and made sure all connectors were very clean and nothing would start and i jump started the battery and volt tested it to be okay because i figured i was draining it from attempting to start so many times.
I took a break and 2 days later i tried to start the van and it started instantly on the first try so i went to drive it to autozone immediately to have alternater and everything tested but on the way there (it is a very short trip) when i pushed on the gas pedal the engine did not rev up but i pushed on it again and it worked and i drove through a park with very steep hills just fine and after going through the park i pushed the gas and it wouldnt do anything and eventually the van stopped and i couldn't get it to start no matter what... the engine would turn over and sounded very close to starting but wouldn't start.
I had to have the van tolled home and i took a break and 2 days later i turned the key and it started instantly but i am too afraid to drive it and i waited 5 minutes and turned the key again and it started instantly so i turned it off and now i am not sure what to do next.
I am novice at auto repair so this is first project for me... i realize that 1989 b150 is old and, financially, i can get a better replacement vehicle but i want to fix this van for personal education purposes.
1. wouldn't start with clicking sound... car ran fine for 1.5 months after buying it without any problem
2. new starter, new battery, new battery connectors, new starter relay
3. now it starts but unpredictably... no more clicking sound and the engine turns over and i am afraid to drive it because it might die again.
Any help is appreciated.
I have an 2001 Durango 8 cyl. 2 cyl. have 0 compression. I have shut off the fuel pump to those 2 cylinders so I can run on 6 cyl, but the idle is too low and it stalls at every stop. Is there a way to override/modify the computer controlled idle speed?
what year is your truck?
Check for spark during crank. You may have no spark when cranking but are powering up the coil. Releasing the key from crank momentarily cycles the coil and send a spark. You should see if you have a fuel pressure problem. Cycle the key three or four times. The fuel pump should pressure up to 44 to 54 psi on a single key cycle. If the fuel pump is weak, cycling the fuel pump several times may pump up the pressure and allow the vehicle to start. It won't run good but it gives you a clue on what to do next.
Any no start, check your basics. Spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse. Once you see what you have and what's missing it will tell you what to look at next. (most of the time. there are always exceptions)