I need my brake pads replaced and my rotors either resurfaced or replaced. I am getting quotes from the usual places like Midas, Meineke, etc. https://bestarny.com/brake-pads-for-chevy-silverado/ . The part prices they quote seem really high. I can get the same parts elsewhere for much lower. But I definitely cannot install the rotors myself. Will these shops install parts that I bring in and charge for labour only? If these shops don't, will local private auto repair shops do that?
Most of the time when I go to car service places, I feel ripped off because they seem to oversell things that I cannot do much about because the car is already opened up and they insist that the additional stuff must be done or bad things will happen. So what is the best cost-effective way to go about this?
I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer. I have read of the forms where temperature gauge goes to zero and the AC shuts off. I replaced the temperature sensor which was no fun. Same issue exists. Does anyone know where I go from here.
I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier that I purchased about a month and a half almost 2 months ago the car has had a total of three owners I am the third the second was my brother the car has 152 something thousand miles and my brother did sell it to me cheap because I needed a car to get me to and from work and it does not have reverse. When you try to put the car in Reverse you can hear it try to engage you can hear it click and you can feel it try to engage but when you try to put your foot on the gas it does not move however if you are on a slight incline and even in my driveway that is completely flat it will roll back on its own when it is in neutral it will not roll back at all in my driveway like it does in reverse. When my brother still had the car he had someone look at it the guy he had look at it does not know anything I've read multiple reviews about him and he has cheated multiple people out of his their money that he has ruined their Motors there Transmissions rip them off he's just a bad guy all the way around he told my brother that there was metal shavings in the transmission fluid and that the bands in the transmission were bad and that even if the fluid and the filter were changed in the transmission that it would completely ruin the transmission and it would no longer run at all currently up until Saturday the car ran perfectly fine in Drive as of Saturday it started acting weird it started having issues with accelerating and then as of Sunday it overheated on me and on Monday I replace the thermostat after replacing the thermostat it overheated again we bled the line and got all the air out and also ran a toggle switch because the radiator fan was not kicking on the water pump on the car is new I know the car is not getting hot but the temperature gauge is going crazy it goes from running at regular temperature too cold as if the car was just started even when it's been running for 30 minutes or longer it has a really hard time accelerating it makes a really loud whining sound that started as of Saturday we realize that there is a hole and a crack in the reservoir for the power steering pump reservoir I do intend on getting a new reservoir on Friday I'm just not understanding what could be causing these new issues along with the issues with the reverse as well when I check the transmission fluid it does smell burnt and if it is a brown color instead of the normal red color. As for the accelerating issues when that did happen on Sunday it was as if the car would overheat as the RPMs would get higher the higher the RPM the hotter the car would get I did get it to the side of the road and pulled over before it got too hot so I know for sure I did not blow a head gasket this is the six Cavalier I've owned so I know them like the back of my hand but this one has me dumbfounded! I personally have had it looked at by four different mechanics I've had one person tell me that it's the transmission is completely bad I've had one person tell me that it just needs new fluid and a new filter I've had one tell me it's the solenoid and I've had one tell me that it is the pump that is inside the transmission. I've reached out to multiple transmission shops in my area and none of them will look at it because they State because it is such an old car and it does not have reverse that I'm better off just selling the car to a junkyard and going and getting a newer car but I do not have the money to do that nor the credit. And I personally like my car and you not want to go in debt for someone else's headache I would rather fix what I have even if it comes down to having to replace the transmission I just don't want to get ripped off!
I'm doing roadside service using a 2007 HHR.My question is when doing jump starts isn't it safer
to have my car not running to prevent damage to the ECM (computer)?
This is performed after trying to start the dead battery with A jump box, but fails.
I have a 01 Chevalier 2.2L, 146k miles. Last week as I was getting off the highway the temp gauge spiked indicating overheating. Took it to the garage. They said it was a bad thermostat. They replaced it. They also replace the coolant extension tank cap. I ran the car for half a day on my normal runs after picking it up and it stayed at the 190 - 195 range. Pretty normal for LA traffic in the Summer. Well on the commute home after about 20 to 30 mins the temp gauge started to climb and began floating between 225 and 240. This would spike higher if I was stuck crawling along in traffic and drop if I was cruising, the air from travelling at 65 to 80 mph obviously cooling the engine down, but it still runs hot. After about 40mins to an hour of this, it peaked in the red at around 260 and the indicator light would come on. It did the same thing on my way into work the following morning. After turning the car off and sitting for a while the temp would drop to manageable levels. Its still hot, but not red lining. When there isn’t much traffic I can make it home, which about 15 to 20 miles depending on which route I take, it will not go over 240. The garage wanted to check the water pump to see if there is dirt in the or replace it, which would have costed about $500 to $600. I told them I would do it myself. If it is the water pump I can replace it myself. They also said it could be that the radiator is bad (They were not specific about that), but I should start with the water pump. I would rather not just start throwing parts at it without knowing for sure, which is what the garage wanted to do. I’m trying not to spend money I don’t have to.
A few detail about things I’ve ruled out. I am not losing any power, nor is backfiring, no white smoke or dripping from the exhaust so I no for certain that it is not the head gasket. The garage confirmed this with a compressor test. While idling, the radiator fan does turn on when the A/C is turned on. Heater does blow hot air. I idled it for 15mins and the temp gauge climbed to around 220, but never went over. The radiator fan did turn on at this temp. I checked it and it was not blowing any hot air anywhere, only cool air, even while idling, so likely not a clog. However, temp gauge did not drop when fan came on. I have not seen any leaks anywhere, other than dripping from the A/C when it has been running for a while. Coolant is full and has the level has not gone down.
Somethings I noticed while driving other than previously mentioned. Driving with the A/C on while sitting in traffic makes it heat up faster. Without it on, the temp gauge climbs slower. I also noticed that if I have to brake hard, the gauge dips down 5 to 10 degrees. I’m not sure what to make of that. Anyone got any ideas to narrow this down so I’m not spending money and time on parts I don’t have to? Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2006 Chevy Uplander fuel pump issues we have replaced the pump and the four wire plug at the pump and up graded the gro
und.The pump will pump before we reinstall it but it won't pump when reinstalled. Any help will be appreciated.
Hello! I'm a rookie DIYer looking for advice to my issue. Before I begin I did add water to my system, distilled so I kept it free of minerals. I'm losing coolant from 1 of the heater hoses , just a small amount it seems. So I know this needs replaced. Here is what happened:
I was driving to the local farmers market about 8 miles from home. Before leaving I topped off the distilled water and attempted to bleed air from the vale on top of the water pump, never got a stream of water. Just as I got to the intersection of the store my temp gauge went to the redline and the temp warning light came on, at this point I could hear what sounded like rattling coming from my engine bay. As I approached the stop light the car stalled and refused to start for the next ~30 minutes. I opened the hood and had smoke coming from the engine when I removed the Oil Cap, and I'm almost certain I heard some hissing from the rear of the motor. Once the engine cooled down it did start up, not as easy as before but it did start. I ended up limping it back home because I didn't have the $150 the tow service wanted, I'm disabled and have to live off of what most people make in a week.
***EDIT: Need to add in that I was only able to drive it for 5 minutes before needing to pull over and sit for 20-30 minutes and let it cool down before driving again. While limping it home.***
A few days went by , I went to check out my car by starting it and attempting to listen for any abnormal noises when trying to start it up, I thought I had blown my motor or something serious at least. It fired right up no issues, though I let it run til it warmed up again trying to reproduce the rattling and hissing. It never rattled or hissed, though I did not go for a quick spin.
In a few days time I will have my disability deposit and I was planning on buying a new surge tank, water pump, thermostat with 180F opening temp instead of 192F and 4 gallons of Dex-Kill. To see if my issue was the water boiling out of the system, it's possible as it has a low boiling point. I would like your opinions and advice please. The car shows 157k miles on it.
I'm having a strange issue with my front blower. All was working fine, then one morning I get in and the front blower is completely dead. I checked the fuses and all was good there. The rear heat still works fine so at least there's still some heat in the van. Nothing for about three weeks, then one day I get in and the blower works again. It lasted for about three weeks until it stopped again. Another two weeks of nothing then it started working for a few days. Now it's back to not working. I know this has to be some kind of electrical problem. Any ideas?
Hi there, I have a 1986 Chevy Celebrity wagon base model. It has the 2.8 V-6 2-barrel carb. I've owned it since October 2015. Put a complete tune up in it after I bought it. Ran darn near flawless in any temperature until 2 weeks ago. Began hesitating and backfiring. I looked at the engine in the dark a few nights ago and noticed the coil arcing. I bought a "Drive Works" ignition coil from Avanced Auto and installed it. The car seem to run better for a day or so before reverting back to lagging and backfiring. Looked at the engine again in the dark and noticed the coil was still arcing. Took it back and bought an Accel ignition coil. Installed it this morning and the car ran badly from the start. Just looked at the engine a few hours ago in the dark and it was lighting up like a Christmas tree. Purple/bluish light everywhere. Coil was arcing, wires were arcing with each other, the coil to distributor wire was arcing out almost it's entire length against the air cleaner. Car still runs, at idle it will miss and at higher RPM's while driving is "pops" (backfires). I checked the distributor cap and rotor, they didn't look bad. There is only around 15,000 miles on all the tune up parts. Could be a bad coil ground, but I'm not sure how this coil grounds. I believe it's through the bracket? The only wires on the coil itself are the coil to distributor plug wire and 2 wires that plug into the coil itself. I know the newer coil runs hotter so what are the chances another complete tune up with better quality wires solves this problem? Thank you!
I have a 16' Impala LT. I'm curious if anyone can answer my question about the speakers. The LTZ Impalas have and are marked with the BOSE system and more speakers I believe? I'm curious if the speakers in the LT are Bose also, or if they are different. If you look up part numbers there is 2 different speaker options without premium sound or with premium sound, but i've read that they might still be Bose speakers.If they are different can the LT speakers be switched out with Bose-plug and play?
I have a 16' Impala LT. I'm curious if anyone can answer my question about the speakers. The LTZ Impalas have and are marked with the BOSE system and more speakers I believe? I'm curious if the speakers in the LT are Bose also, or if they are different. If you look up part numbers there is 2 different speaker options without premium sound or with premium sound, but i've read that they might still be Bose speakers.If they are different can the LT speakers be switched out with Bose-plug and play?
I have a 2003 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 engine not super charged.
Problem one: Changed the thermostat because I wasn't getting heat in the car and thought it was sticking open. Now, at idle it will go up to normal temperature idling in the driveway. If I drive down the road the temperature gauge drops about 25 degrees and stays there. The thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat but it runs well below that, by about 25 degrees, driving down the road.
Problem two. When the car is at normal temperature sitting idling, if I turn my heater fan on, the air is warm about a minute at most and cools down to about 45 degrees. The temperature control lever works. If I turn the heat down, the air gets colder. If I set it all the way up, I get 45 degree air. The only time I have any heat is by letting it idle to running temp and then it lasts about one minute. Driving down the road when the temperature gauge is down 25 degrees, there is no heat.
Any help greatly appreciated....
I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze making a scraping noise coming from the vicinity of the manual transmission. I've heard a bad throw out bearing before. This sounds very similar. The difference is depressing the clutch doesn't help. The car must be in motion. It doesn't happen when stopped. I also don't hear it in reverse. Thoughts?
the problem with finding a fix for your vehicle is the tech has to have the condition to be present in order to see what is actually happening. Some where you are losing signal from the HVAC control module, blower motor control module or power and ground to one of the components in the system.
Have a scanner check for codes in the system. There may be a code that can help narrow down where to look
My ignition got busted out so I went to the pull apart and got one from 2004 Impala with keyless remote entrie how do I rest not them the 30 min relearn
Hello, I Am Looking For Help Diagnosing My Impala's Illness. About A Week Ago, my car overheated on the way home from a short trip. I Assumed it must be the thermostat stuck closed, so I Replaced it. Car Still Overheats. So I Replaced Water Pump. Car Still overheats, and Fan Does Not Come on, So I Replaced Fan. Fans Still do not come on, and horn does not work. I Took bottom horn off, (there are two) and tested it....BEEEEEP....Horn worked. Put Horn Back on, Took car to auto repair shop, and asked them to do an engine diagnostic check, which I thought meant they would hook it up to machine which would find short, etc. They used hand held scanner, and found no issues, but offered to fix my car for 495.00. Nice Guys. I brought car home, and checked it for short by pulling each individual fuse, using test light. No Bad Fuses Found. I am at a loss as to what the problem may be. with no horn, there is no beep when I lock my car, but lights flash letting me know its Locked. Also when I Hit Alarm button, lights flash but no horn. Please help me decipher this issue, as my car is upset I Haven't been driving it lately. ( And so is my boss lady.) There are no leaks (Visible), no dash indicator trouble lights, and I've never had any trouble with car prior to this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You For Reading This, And Thank You For Having A Page like this where People can come to get advise from those who know more than we do.
Below is the tests i have performed on the FTPS problem so far. I am a DIY'er and seem to have hit a block in the road
I have no wiring diagram for this cars FTPS circuit as i cannot find one. I have a service manual for a 2004 Optra and it doesn't list anything for the FTPS circuit.
NOTE: I do not have a Fancy dancy scanner with square waves etc. I only have a simple Actron scanner CP9580a and a DMM.
Here is what i have diagnosed so far:
With Key off
1.) I have continutity on the ground wire(black)
With Key on Engine off
2.) 5Volt Reference - tested 4.99V on the reference wire (gray)
3.) Signal Wire - jumped 5Vref to signal and backprobed the signal wire (ecm side of connector). Test showed 4.99v proving no connector fault.
CONNECTOR PLUGGED BACK IN,
4.) FTPS test - removed FTPS from Fuel Tank Pump assembly and applied -10kpa vacuum on the sensor and it ranged from 1.3v - 4.74v
After releasing the vacuum pressure voltage returns to starting point. (1.4v or 4.94) cant remember which was the starting point.
did this a few times to confirm that sensor fluctuated within this range...so seems to be working.
5.) Purge Valve - removed from car and applied voltage to test valve open close operation while applying vacuum - Valve opens
Also listened to the purge cycle with mechanic stethascope and valve was rattling away (while car running).
6.) Vent valve - removed from car and applied voltage to test valve open close operation while blowing thru it - Valve closes.
7.) Gas cap is brand new.
8.) The Drive Test Diagnosis - The MIL is on - "P0454 only" after resetting MIL and now 93km later i still haven't gotten the P0452 to reappear yet, but it will as i have done this many time already. With the DMM connected to ground and backprobed to the signal wire on connector (ecm side) i observed the Voltage reading while driving for 15 minutes. In City and on Highway the signal was perfect (1.4V-3.1V).
Went home let car cool and retested. Drove same distance never tromping on throttle. Stopped, waited a few minutes and restarted car and the MIL went off (expected). All the drive time the FTPS signal Voltage was perfect.
SO I APPLIED SOME FORCE TO HER ON THE NEXT TRIP FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL WHILE OBSERVING THE DMM VOLTAGE and sure enough the voltage dropped below threshhold and went haywire at times. (leading me to beleive the the sensor if faulty). This resulted in the MIL coming back on IMMEDIATELY after the second attempt.
Not sure what caused the FTPS to go haywire/eratic and go below .1 Volts (i think thats the threshhold which has to happen on 2 consecutive trips for the MIL to come on?).
But i have reservations about going out and replacing the sensor (throwing money at parts) until am absolutely sure about the fix.
I did close vent valve with my scanner and applied .5 psi shop air from the evap hose before the purge valve. Everthing seemed to hold pressure but i have no way of determining this as I dont have a fancy smoke machine with pressure gage). I do have a MityVac Vacuum pump which does both pressure and vacuum. I tryed to apply vacuum to the line at first but it didnt seems to be strong enough to pull vacuum or i may have not closed the vent valve (cant remember) I will try this again.
As mentioned I dont want to throw money at parts until 100% sure of fix.
PLEASE ADVISE, AS I AM NOT SURE WHICH FORK IN THE ROAD TO TAKE FOR THE NEXT STEP.
I have a1994 Camaro z28 and driver side power window switch is broken it is a single switch not double cant find one
I just finished swapping engines in a 2004 Impala LS 3.8 v 6. Old engine had 236K on it and blew a head gasket bending a rod. After installing the new engine I am not getting any gas to the motor. Relays and fuses are all good. All connectors are good and I have found no loose or broken wires. The schematics show a low/no oil pressure switch or relay in the fuel pump circuit but I can not locate this part. Are they talking about the low oil sender unit down by the oil filter> I have tried jumping this sender to see if it made any difference. No joy. Any ideas short of a new fuel pump???
I have a 1986 corvette with the 700r4 automatic. These are weak transmissions and I intend on building the motor so my question is how hard will it be to swap in a 4L80E auto overdrive, what it will require, and does anyone know the difference in the gear ratios of the 2 different transmissions? They are both 4 speed automatics...
is your condition a "crank no start" or you don't even get "crank"
I have a 02 Impala and I have changed the fuel pump, fuel pump filter, and the bcm. I have had the bcm programmed by the chevy dealer they also reprogrammed the theft system. But the car still at times will not start! I don't know if it helps to know that sometimes the turning signals don't work and the light for the gear placement is out on the dash. It always cranks like it wants to start but it doesn't. When I tow the car to the shop the funny thing is that it starts for them then when I get it home after it runs for about 20 mins and I turn it off it won't start again. Please Help!!!
My 06, impala 3.5 just died going down the road the key does nothing the dash lights don't come on can't roll up the window. And the scan tool I plug into the UBD2 linking error. Under the hood I found a blown ECM 10 amp fuse replaced it and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe my ECM needs replaced but of course I want to confirm before I spend the money with someone smarter than me. Thanks for what ever help you can give
My 06, impala 3.5 just died going down the road the key does nothing the dash lights don't come on can't roll up the window. Scan tool that I plug into UBD2 says linking error. Under the hood I found a blown ECM 10 amp fuse replaced it and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe my ECM needs replaced but of course I want to confirm before I spend the money with someone smarter than me. Thanks for what ever help you can give
hello I have a chevy impala 2001 that wont crank for about 15 minutes then cranks,and now the battery light come on with the coolant light and the car cut off any and every where.the alternator works and I have coolant .I change the water pump cause of a leak .I cant drive the car cause it cuts off on me .please help me I have talked to so many mechanics and my car is still siting for months ,tell me what to do thanks
I have a 2004 Malibu Classic with a 2.2L blown engine, and I also have a 2005 Pontiac Vue with a good 3.5L and am trying to figure out if the engine mounts are the same and if I can use the same transmission. I have heard they are bolt up but want to be sure before I start this.
my 2001 chevy venture it is shooting oil out from behind the starter I all ready change the oil presure sending unit
Well I changed the timing chain and gears on this car but while putting new wires and plugs I notice a wire plug in was off of where it went to its a gray box mounted on the passenger side intake towards the back of the intake car was running when I notice the wires so I plugged them back in and the car died I took the wires back off and started the car again and it started so I need to know what that sensor is for and what it works can anybody help me please
My radio has no power. Fuses in car are OK. Fuses in fuse box under hood are OK too but if I take the fuse for the radio and put it back in the radio works for a while then stops. Tried new fuse same result radio works for a while but loses power. Gave up on it and then a few days later the radio power came back on it's own lasted a few days then out again.
my camaro had a busted a break line we replaced it. but the abs light is still on and we tried to beed the breaks but the break fluid wont come out the back but a drop. The breaks when driving keep going out. We have a computer to reset the abs code will that help the valve to open like it is suppose to?
Symptom- Gas is accumulating in the air intake resonator box and the air hose that runs to the air filter.
In the pursuit of repairing this issue I have replaced the fuel filter, the air intake resonator box, 02 sensor, one MAP sensor, and the spark plugs. The air intake resonator box was replaced due to the nipple connecting it to the Pressure Control Valve being sheared off. The rest was replaced by a mechanic who assumed, these parts being faulty, as the cause to the symptom.
The accumulation after a day of very mild driving is a little over a cup of gas.
My 2015 Malibu is making a beeping sound in the driver side dash, any body know what this means?
why cant I find a wire diagram for a2009 chevy impala anywhere online? I don't have time to go and buy one of the Haynes or Chilton books. any help would be great.
you probably have a misfire. When the check engine light flashes, the computer is telling you that you ate going to damage your catalytic converter if you continue to drive it. If you check engine light comes on, yea, you should have it looked at some time soon. When it flashes, you should have it looked at it before you damage the cat.
The blower motor don't shut off when key is off. Also can't adjust the blower speed. I have to pull the fuse under the hood to shut it off. I'm not finding any actual relays just fuses?
The hose connects to two different parts I circled the hoses and where it connects at just need to know the name of the l piece so I can buy a new one any help will be appreciated thank you
I broke off the driver side mirror (whole mirror frame) on 2015 chevy Malibu. I need instructions on how to open inside panel to get access to mirror mount since mirror mounting pins sheered off and are stuck in mounting holes. I can't find any instructions on web or how to videos for this new car. Does anyone know how?
Car was broken into and steering column destroyed I can't afford to take to a shop and need to know how to disable theft device so I can drive my car to get it fixed
Just replaced both intake manifold, valve cover, egr, and throttle body gaskets. It started fine and left it running a while everything seemed fine. Went to drive it home and noticed white smoke and the smell of coolant burning coming from right side of engine( side w/ throttle and thermostat). What could be leaking now????
I put a pressure tester on and was expecting to see a bad water pump seal because there appeared to be some coolant in the water pump pulley. But... with the pressure tester on, there is coolant running out from what appears to be the corner of the rear cylinder head on the passenger side, but a little lower. Could this be from a freeze plug on the head, or the timing cover or something behind the alternator bracket? I doesn't look like it's coming from the head gasket, but very close. I've been looking at it with a mirror.
I asked the person that experienced the timing issue before. It started running a little rough. Wouldn't idle properly. Went and got an oil change and after that it wouldn't start and was throwing a timing code (don't know the exact code as he doesn't remember).
I've checked one of the spark plugs (it's good) though I suppose I could check the others. I don't know the exact fuel pressure though it's definitely enough to cause the fuel to shoot out at least 3-5 feet when the valve is depressed near the engine.
The engine hasn't run since changed the timing chain tensioner and realigned the chain itself. I don't have an oscilloscope or anything that I could use to graph signals or voltages in a time-dependent manner. However, it is no longer throwing the timing code that my coworker mentioned. Also, I don't know how to check cylinder pressure nor have I ever worked on a fuel injector, though I'm certain I could figure it out.
I guess the first thing I need to ask is: will the car still be able to start in most cases if the "computer" is detecting that there's something wrong with the TPS? If so, it's probably some other major issue within the engine itself, right? I mean, it does have about 220k miles on it.
my 1999 monte carlo engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off. replaced ignition switch. it still continues to run after turning off the key. what would cause this?
I have a 2006 Monte Carlo when I turn off the outside air or turn off the car there is a knocking in the dash on the passenger side.
My impala dont do anything .. wont start. No power on windos. No pwer on remot alarm.. no lights. Dashboard comes on but do nothing.. please help me
Smell gas especially in rear of car. Mechanic can't find problem. He has done smoke test.
ok, so it makes the noise when driving and turning...
A grinding noise when turning could be a bearing that has gotten so bad that the rotor doesn't stand up when turning. Could also be something with the brakes. Could be the wheel rubbing... you should jack up the wheel that makes the noise from under the control. See if there is any play in the wheel. top to bottom and side to side. Take the wheel off and see if you can find anything that shows signs of rubbing or grinding.
without hearing the noise myself it is difficult to say what it could be. Usually a wheel bearing will make a rumbling noise that follows the speed of the wheel rotation when they start to go bad. that noise gets louder as time goes on. Usually noticeable at speeds of 35 mph and higher until they get really bad and you can hear it all the time. Then the bearing gets so bad the the rotor will start to lean and might scrape on the caliper bracket. But. it's normally very loud by then...
I have a 1989 Chev. Celebrity 2.8L I changed the Idle Air Control Valve & Throttle Position Sensor. I cleaned and torked everything to specs. Now it won't start. It turns over very well but doesn't act like it wants to fire. Any suggestions?
I have gotten a oil change and all my fluid checked and filled, a tune up and a new battery. When I accelerate, it goes real slow then it speeds up a little and then it goes slow again. It is not my tranmission. I suspected it is my egr valve. Any ideas. Please help
'06 Impala. At freezing or below, windshield fogs so bad you can't see. No smell of antifreeze.
we have a 99 malibu, would start but stall after a few seconds, we replaced the ICM, coil pk, crank sensor, it then threw out a theft code, so we replaced the map sensor for the the computer kept resetting and went to loop, then replaced the fuel regulator.. still not staying started.. about broke and out of ideas.. any info. would be great
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala and are having trouble with the instrument panel lights. When you first turn the car on the Odometer light comes on for a few seconds like normal but none of the others come on at all. After a few seconds the odometer light goes real dim. Have checked all the fuses, none blown. Any suggestions as what to check next?
For some time now my '01 Impala (163k miles) has sometimes made a brief grinding noise at 3100 RPM before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear, and has recently started doing the same at 2100 RPM between 1st and 2nd gear. It doesn't make the noise every time but the problem doesn't occur when the engine is revved with the transmission in neutral, which leads me to believe it's a transmission issue that is starting to get worse. The car doesn't shudder or hesitate in its acceleration. Any advice?
My 98 cavalier manual trans. does not engage any gear
i have a 2005 monte carlo lt 3.8 v6. the other day i was driving it and it out of nowhere died. it wouldnt start back up after that. i got a friend to help me get it back to the house and left it for a day. came back to it and it will turn over but wont start. i checked the fuel rail and it had fuel in it. i wasnt getting spark when i tried to get an arch on the head. so i took the icm into auto shop to get it tested and it came back working. i dont know what to do now
The driver side door makes a loud, distinct popping noise when opening or closing. The door feels like it is ratcheting / jerking when it pops. The noise sounds like it is coming from the vicinity of the small "bar" that attaches to the door frame and then disappears into the door when operating. The door is fine when fully opened or closed.
Any suggestions of how to fix this?
06 Chevy Equinox LT
Sunny Virginia Beach, Va
TEMP GUAGE READS WAY PAST THE HOT MARK ON GUAGE BUT ENGINE IS BARELY HOT. cHECKED ALL FUSES AND RELAYS- GOOD.. ALSO CHECKED RADIATOR CAP AND HOSES - GOOD . HELP. DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT FIXING CARS LEARNING AND TEACHING MYSELF AS I GO. WHATS MY NEXT STEP(S) FOR FIXING GUAGES NEXT .
I HAVE A 2004 IMPALA 3.8L, 105K MI.COLD STARTS PERFECTLY NORMAL AFTER GETTING TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMP. ,AND CAR SHUT OFF FOR 30 MIN TO ABOUT 1 HR,CAR WILL START BUT STUMBLE AND SOMTIMES STALL BUT WILL ALWAYS RESTART, NO OTHER DRIVABILITY ISSUES CHANGED VERY DIRTY IAC.CLEANED MAF AND EGR OF COURSE NO CEL CHECKED FUEL PRESS,AND REGULATOR ALL NORMAL.LOCAL MECH SAYS POSSIBLE INTERMITTANT CRANK SENSOR BUT I'VE RED CAM SENSOR WILL CAUSE WARM START/STALL AND IS A LITTILE EASIER TO CHANGE ,IF CHANGED MUST A RELERN BE DONE AND HOW. THANKS FOR ALL HELP PETE
I have a 2010 Chevy Camaro RS... just turned over 20,000 miles. I brought the car in to have an oil change (not a Chevy dealer) and the mechanic said that the car brakes, front and back on the drivers side were at a 2 mm, almost nothing left, however the passenger side front and back were almost full. Two extreme differences. So I immediately called, the dealer only to learn that they could not schedule me for service for over a month, even knowing the condition of what I now call "Piece of crap / lemon car", with brakes that are clearly a danger on the road.
Several mechanics and people who drive Chevy's have said that my brake scenario is very unusual for any car make and is most likely a manufacturer defect, or when my car was smashed into by another driver, Chevy's body shop did the repair and possibly did not repair the frame properly, hence the brake situation.
Any insight / expertise would be appreciated.
it jumps out of gear no matter what speed your going and the od light flashes. I've purchased a new vss but can't find it on the vehicle
2000 chevy venture heating problem. I have a 2000 Chevy Venture not putting out heat. The coolant level is full in the radiator and the reservoir. Not losing coolant, so I'm not suspecting head gasket. there seems to be some sort of valve going to the heater core (a solenoid of some kind? ) on the upper right side of the motor near the coolant reservoir. One side seems to be hot, and the other side doesn't. It has 2 hoses attached to it. I bled the system by opening the bleeder going towards the thermostat, but haven't gotten any kind of respectable heat. The temp gauge will go up to and hang out about half and 3/4 and gunning the engine a few times drops it down. I don't know if the rear heat is attached and working, but also the indicators on the control panel on the dash when switching from face, face/foot heat to foot/defrost or any other variant goes from inside air to outside air light on the panel without changing it myself. when moving, temp gauge drops down to about 1/4 but that would be expected from airflow over the motor and cooling fins of the radiator
I have considered running a piece of pipe to the two sides of the solenoid/valve on top of the motor near the coolant reservoir and bypassing that valve to see if that works, but not sure if that would be the problem and if that needs to be replaced, but I don'e get a diagram showing that valve
I have replaced both thermostat and waterpump and flushed the system but car still runs hot and have no heat whyl
I have a p0402 code and my Emission 1 fuse keeps blowing
My 2001chevy impala shut off while driving on the highway the gas just got hard so did the break as i was tryna pull over the steeling wheel got hard i manage to get to the the side n pull over i had somebody look at the car and also hooked up to a machine nothing is coming up what can i do ?
So this past weekend I pulled the oil pan from my 2007 chevy impala and changed the gas get due to it leaking! What a job that was. Got everything back together an in place no more leak also change a motor mount on the bottom of the motor took the vibration I was having away. Started the car drove fine next day the engine lite comes on and stays on had it scanned and it's putting off 5 different codes my problem is I'm loss with these coded don't think I have 5 different problems I'm guessing there all being put off for the same reason but who knows the codes are P0030,P0036,P0053,P0054,P0443. Any ideas an thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I can not afford to take it to a shop at this time! Thanks for taking the time to read!
Trying to locate an oil leak. Coming from near the oil filter. Trying to locate the oil sending unit to see if that's the source. Can not find the oil sensor. Where is it located?
I have a 1998 monte carlo it runs good for days then fule pump stops working . I will let it sit for 2 or 3 hr and it will run agen. I have changed the relay and checked the fuses can it be the pump or some thing else.
Where are the freeze plugs located on my 2007 HHR? I want to install a freeze plug heater, and wanted to know what is involved in doing this?
I changed the fuelpump and it started, but when i replaced the tank into the car it wouldn't start, only cranks... fuelpump is coming on and is reading 47psi as specified at autozone... but will not start. Theft system light is NOT flashing no check engine light... no kinked fuel lines and all good electrical connections. what is my problem?
Driving down the Highway I had a belt failure with the belt wrapping itself around behind the crank pulley ( where the crank sensor is located) bummer. I replaced the belt from my emergency kit in the trunk but vehicle started then died. I had no fuel pressure at the shrader valve and the pump would not turn on when ignition on ( listened carefully). Had vehicle towed to home. I replaced the fuel pump and it energises properly when the ignition is turned on. By the way I replaced the fuses and relays even though they checked out because I wanted to be sure before I towed the vehicle. I replaced the oil pressure switch because I noticed that it would have been near the flailing belt. I also had unplugged the crank sensor and repaired the scrufffed wireing and then reconnected the harness to the crank sensor. This is acting like my old ford Taurus did when I had a fender bender but my Camaro does not have a fuel shutoff switch nor has one been installed aftermarket which I checked because I know they can be installed. Please don't tell me I have a bad crank sensor sice I replaced that when I overhauled the motor 6 months ago. please give me a simple fix because the engine does start when I spray some starting fluid in it.
I have had 2 ERG valve replace, map sensor, EVAP hose and P0401 keeps coming on. They have smoked it 3 times. Please can you advise what else they can check for?
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu. The gas gage and the temp gage both on the dash are not working. I also have the check engine light on. Got the code p0446. Not sure if all three are connected or not. Not sure what would cause the gas gsge not to work. That is the one thing I need to get fixed. Can someone please help with some information?
low flow does not mean the egr valve isn't working. It means the MAP sensor did not read the intake vacuum change it was looking for when the egr was commanded on. Here's on reason that may cause this problem. The PCV system will allow oil to be drawn up into the intake very close to the egr port in the intake. That oil, over time, will mix with exhaust soot and plug up the egr passages.
(example: removing throttle body and EGR valve will provide access to both ends of passageway. Removing vacuum tee at the top of intake will allow a straight line of access for cleaning with a long screwdriver etc. The crooked passage over to EGR was cleaned with a piece of speedometer cable or something flexible.)
My 2003 chevy impala has l coolent leak near the fan belt. I can see a little hoes where it is leaking from. Can you give me any help as to what this is and how to make sure this is where its leaking from. Also if i can fix this myself or do i need to take it to someone.
2003 chevy cavalier starts and stops in one or two sec. also instrument cluster not working.
I have a 2005 chevy malibu classic 2.2 eogotec 53,000 miles just started tapping check with GM Mecanic and was told most likely stuck lifter as it was back by power stering pump. Just shut off. wont restart. any help please.
I need parts for 1998 olds intrigue V6 that are no longer available so I need to know which Chevy would be approx., the same? thanks!
How do I check to make sure the engine hasn't jumped time?
I have the 3 digits pushing 2&3 - 222
And 3 digits pushing am/fm - 226
I just don't know what to do next to unlock my radio.
I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek that shifts hard thru the gears It only does it if I stay sitting in one spot with the motor running for more then 3 or 4 min then when I take off it starts to shift hard it will stop once I turn the car off for a min or two then will drive fine until I stay sitting and running again then it's starts again any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
About a month ago, when trying to turn my lights on manually my 2003 mc ss said service car soon. Tonight I lost interior instrument panel lights but after further observation, I noticed they were just really really dim. I checked the dimmer switch and it was turned up as far as it could go. My mechanic said it sounds like a bad dimmer switch. We checked all the fuses and they were fine along with the dimmer itself which was a small turn away from turning on the dome light. Just checking to see if this is plausible or not???
Cranks up but wont idle. If you hold gas down it will stay running but immediantly shuts off when you let off the gas. Can you help me? It is a throttle body engine.
if the code you are talking about is P0306 that says you have a misfire in cylinder #6, no I don't think that your fuel gauge sender will cause that code. I don't see how only one particular cylinder would misfire because you fuel sender is inaccurate. Now that being said, stranger things have happened. If the injector wiring and the fuel sender wiring were somehow shorted or rubbed through somewhere together it might be possible they both would act up at the same time...
depending on the scanner you are using, see if you have a misfire counter so you can actually look for the misfire. see when it is acting up. if your scanner has the misfire counter ability you should graph the misfires on all the cylinders while you sit at idle then go for a drive and see if you can see when and under what conditions you have a miss.
i am trying to remove the fuel filler door on my 2000 impala without destroying it any helpful hints i need to replace or repair the rust i figure it would be easier to repair on the bench thanks
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala Lt 3.5 L reading code P0010 shifts hard thru first an second gears have a check engine lite on I have changed the camshaft positioning sensor also the plug to that sensor I have also changed the camshaft magnet stop shifting hard for a very short period of time after I chanced that now the lite is back on and the hard shifting persist please help can not keep just spending money also can not afford to pay shop prices. Thanks for reading and any help you may have! Happy 4TH
What could cause a pulsating grinding/roaring noise from the rear end when traveling straight and intensified when turning right? When turning left the noise stops.
i have a 2003 malibu and it goes in rev but no forward gears what can it be pls help.was driving it and shut it off and got bk in it to go and wouldnt move!
I had brought a old Equinox car last year. Yesterday it shows a problem in battery because their head lights is not lighting. When I take my car at Tiremania Auto repair shop which is our local auto repair shop, their repairer says that the battery is completely damaged. So here it is better for me to replace a new one. So asked you that should I need change of my car battery?
sounds like you're on the right track on your diag. and yes, this can affect you shifting. When your check engine light comes on the computer will change how it reacts to your driving the vehicle. basically it goes into a default limp mode. It will substitute a value for the cam sensor since it can't depend on the readings it sees. Some cars shift different, some turn off the cruise, some cars will turn off the AC for codes that may affect power or temp.
make sure you have the right weight oil too
I have a 2004 chevy impala that the check engine light flashes above 30 mph, also chugging real bad at a idle. I have changed fuel cap, fuel filter,o2 senor, ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner also, I am at a loss please help? :cry:
Trying to figure out odd shifting on 2011 impala 3500 motor with automatic- all maintenance up to date except plan to change plugs and wires soon
changed transmission fluid filter etc at 50k and recently near 100k - change not flush - first one fine in winter months but after this one the car does not like shifting on a hill - it will shift ok through the lower gears but if you are pulling a steep hill the rpms will keep going up to 3500 or 4300 before it makes the final shift - if you let off of it and put it right back to it - seems to help it shift - wondering if this could be in the plugs and wires - my first thoughts were transmission - lock up solenoid - dirt in the valve body - torque convertor - no easy fixes that I see but I would appreciate an experts opinion of the most likely cause after a fluid change and suggestions for how to figure it out - my mechanic didn't even put it on the machine just drove it and told me a fluid change would do that? FYI - I also replaced the right front hub assembly due to excessive play in the wheel on the same day as the transmission fluid change. Help Please - my dad taught me to take care of my car and I hate to let things go that can be fixed before a major failure
thanks for your time
After driving for awhile, and stopped at a light, it still idled but wouldn't move and throttle didn't increase. Then Rpms jumped way up, dropped back down, and car moved a little bit. It stopped again, then went again. Pulled into parking lot and put in park. Tried revving gas and it sputtered like it wasn't get enough gas. Plenty of gas and new fuel filter.
when driving in overdrive and under a load (maintaining speed or accelerating up a hill) the car bogs down and runs extremely rough, most of the time i can pull it out of it by downshifting and getting rpm's back. the check eng light flashes for the duration of the poor running. codes thrown are for cyl 5 misfire, the downstream o2 sensor and evap failure. plugs and wires are new but havent changed the runability. i get no response by tapping the TPS (an easy check i read about). could it be a cracked intake? it has the 3800 series II i believe.
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. On the message screen it says service vehicle soon "security" but the car starts and runs fine never dies and never fails to start. It stays on when the car is running also. What does this security light mean? I have changed the ignition switch and key cylinder with no luck in solving the issue..Any ideas?
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala that the ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine lights stay on constantly. We have just replaced both front wheel bearings, (one of them twice), rotors, brakes and new tires all around. We have had a GM dealer look at it and they got the lights to go off, said it was a loose connection. But now their right back on. My husband is a machine mechanic and also does most or all of the work on our cars. He has a high end OBM code reader that also reads ABS. We are getting the codes B1221, B1226, B1232, B1233, and B1245. What could be causing these codes and could you tell me what we need to replace, to be able to clear them and not have them keep coming back on?
This is 2nd time this week my daughters 199 Chevy Malibu died while driving it. We changed the plugs n wires ( which were original from factory) after we found out the large FUSE to ignition was blown. But not now.. Is there something else that can b causing this dangerous problem?
Headlights come on when you start the car, but have no tail lights or brake lights. All fuses have been checked and multi-function switch replaced. It does need a new instrument cluster. Could that effect my tail lights and brake lights. Or is there another common problem with this model?
I have a 04 impala and most of the time when I hit the brakes in cold weather my blower motor stops blowing then when I let off the brake it comes back on .its really annoying it doesn't happen everytime but most of time.i don't know how it can be connected to the brake could it be a vacuum leak in brakes please help
Replaced timing chain and heads on 4cyl 2004 Chevy Malibu. Car was missing...compression was good in all cylinders. replaced coil. Ran good for a short time...then started missing again. Anyone have any ideas....
Trying to locate sensor 1 bank 1 O2 sensor on 3.8l impala. Have seen various diagrams, but not helping. I'm looking for a diagram or pic of exact location.
Thanks in advance.