Newest Chevy Car Forum Questions And Answers
► Won't run after warm up but fires
2000 GM 3800 starts normally when cold but sputters and dies after warm up. Will fire but not run again until cool. I've read many posts about this but no solution. I promise to post my solution when I get it figured out, with some help. : )
When warmed up, not starting: Fuel 48psi, spark jumps 35mm gap at end of all plug wires. Cam pulses once per 2 crank revolutions and crank 3/18 pulses are normal 5v also(rotating by hand while probing ICM connector, injectors unplugged). DTC is random misfire. ECT, IAT, TPS, MAF, MAP read normal values. Unplugging MAF makes no change.
When hot it will start and run if reved up while cranking but misfires and will die if rpm gets to low.
From what I have read a bad crank sensor usually causes no spark when it heats up. After the car warms up a bit then died I get pulses from it and spark. Does it seem like the ICM? Or maybe CPU? Thanks!
► 06 Equinox - Window Rattles at 70 MPH
Driver window rattles at frequency that almost sounds like a whistle at 65-70 MPH.....worse if wind is blowing. If I apply LOTS of pressure in one specific location I can stop it, but I cannot stuff a towel or anything between window and weatherstrip tight enough to stop it........cannot figure out what is doing this. Any ideas?
► Brake pads/rotors: will shop install my parts?
I need my brake pads replaced and my rotors either resurfaced or replaced. I am getting quotes from the usual places like Midas, Meineke, etc. . The part prices they quote seem really high. I can get the same parts elsewhere for much lower. But I definitely cannot install the rotors myself. Will these shops install parts that I bring in and charge for labur only? If these shops don't, will local private auto repair shops do that?
Most of the time when I go to car service places, I feel ripped off because they seem to oversell things that I cannot do much about because the car is already opened up and they insist that the additional stuff must be done or bad things will happen. So what is the best cost-effective way to go about this?
► trailblazer No ac temp low
I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer. I have read of the forms where temperature gauge goes to zero and the AC shuts off. I replaced the temperature sensor which was no fun. Same issue exists. Does anyone know where I go from here.
► No reverse, acceleration issue
I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier that I purchased about a month and a half almost 2 months ago the car has had a total of three owners I am the third the second was my brother the car has 152 something thousand miles and my brother did sell it to me cheap because I needed a car to get me to and from work and it does not have reverse. When you try to put the car in Reverse you can hear it try to engage you can hear it click and you can feel it try to engage but when you try to put your foot on the gas it does not move however if you are on a slight incline and even in my driveway that is completely flat it will roll back on its own when it is in neutral it will not roll back at all in my driveway like it does in reverse. When my brother still had the car he had someone look at it the guy he had look at it does not know anything I've read multiple reviews about him and he has cheated multiple people out of his their money that he has ruined their Motors there Transmissions rip them off he's just a bad guy all the way around he told my brother that there was metal shavings in the transmission fluid and that the bands in the transmission were bad and that even if the fluid and the filter were changed in the transmission that it would completely ruin the transmission and it would no longer run at all currently up until Saturday the car ran perfectly fine in Drive as of Saturday it started acting weird it started having issues with accelerating and then as of Sunday it overheated on me and on Monday I replace the thermostat after replacing the thermostat it overheated again we bled the line and got all the air out and also ran a toggle switch because the radiator fan was not kicking on the water pump on the car is new I know the car is not getting hot but the temperature gauge is going crazy it goes from running at regular temperature too cold as if the car was just started even when it's been running for 30 minutes or longer it has a really hard time accelerating it makes a really loud whining sound that started as of Saturday we realize that there is a hole and a crack in the reservoir for the power steering pump reservoir I do intend on getting a new reservoir on Friday I'm just not understanding what could be causing these new issues along with the issues with the reverse as well when I check the transmission fluid it does smell burnt and if it is a brown color instead of the normal red color. As for the accelerating issues when that did happen on Sunday it was as if the car would overheat as the RPMs would get higher the higher the RPM the hotter the car would get I did get it to the side of the road and pulled over before it got too hot so I know for sure I did not blow a head gasket this is the six Cavalier I've owned so I know them like the back of my hand but this one has me dumbfounded! I personally have had it looked at by four different mechanics I've had one person tell me that it's the transmission is completely bad I've had one person tell me that it just needs new fluid and a new filter I've had one tell me it's the solenoid and I've had one tell me that it is the pump that is inside the transmission. I've reached out to multiple transmission shops in my area and none of them will look at it because they State because it is such an old car and it does not have reverse that I'm better off just selling the car to a junkyard and going and getting a newer car but I do not have the money to do that nor the credit. And I personally like my car and you not want to go in debt for someone else's headache I would rather fix what I have even if it comes down to having to replace the transmission I just don't want to get ripped off!
► jump starting late model vehicles (2007 and up)
I'm doing roadside service using a 2007 HHR.My question is when doing jump starts isn't it safer
to have my car not running to prevent damage to the ECM (computer)?
This is performed after trying to start the dead battery with A jump box, but fails.
► 01 Chevy Cavalier Running Hot, overheating after 40mins
I have a 01 Chevalier 2.2L, 146k miles. Last week as I was getting off the highway the temp gauge spiked indicating overheating. Took it to the garage. They said it was a bad thermostat. They replaced it. They also replace the coolant extension tank cap. I ran the car for half a day on my normal runs after picking it up and it stayed at the 190 - 195 range. Pretty normal for LA traffic in the Summer. Well on the commute home after about 20 to 30 mins the temp gauge started to climb and began floating between 225 and 240. This would spike higher if I was stuck crawling along in traffic and drop if I was cruising, the air from travelling at 65 to 80 mph obviously cooling the engine down, but it still runs hot. After about 40mins to an hour of this, it peaked in the red at around 260 and the indicator light would come on. It did the same thing on my way into work the following morning. After turning the car off and sitting for a while the temp would drop to manageable levels. Its still hot, but not red lining. When there isn’t much traffic I can make it home, which about 15 to 20 miles depending on which route I take, it will not go over 240. The garage wanted to check the water pump to see if there is dirt in the or replace it, which would have costed about $500 to $600. I told them I would do it myself. If it is the water pump I can replace it myself. They also said it could be that the radiator is bad (They were not specific about that), but I should start with the water pump. I would rather not just start throwing parts at it without knowing for sure, which is what the garage wanted to do. I’m trying not to spend money I don’t have to.
A few detail about things I’ve ruled out. I am not losing any power, nor is backfiring, no white smoke or dripping from the exhaust so I no for certain that it is not the head gasket. The garage confirmed this with a compressor test. While idling, the radiator fan does turn on when the A/C is turned on. Heater does blow hot air. I idled it for 15mins and the temp gauge climbed to around 220, but never went over. The radiator fan did turn on at this temp. I checked it and it was not blowing any hot air anywhere, only cool air, even while idling, so likely not a clog. However, temp gauge did not drop when fan came on. I have not seen any leaks anywhere, other than dripping from the A/C when it has been running for a while. Coolant is full and has the level has not gone down.
Somethings I noticed while driving other than previously mentioned. Driving with the A/C on while sitting in traffic makes it heat up faster. Without it on, the temp gauge climbs slower. I also noticed that if I have to brake hard, the gauge dips down 5 to 10 degrees. I’m not sure what to make of that. Anyone got any ideas to narrow this down so I’m not spending money and time on parts I don’t have to? Any help would be appreciated.
► 2005 Chevy Uplander front blower problem.
I'm having a strange issue with my front blower. All was working fine, then one morning I get in and the front blower is completely dead. I checked the fuses and all was good there. The rear heat still works fine so at least there's still some heat in the van. Nothing for about three weeks, then one day I get in and the blower works again. It lasted for about three weeks until it stopped again. Another two weeks of nothing then it started working for a few days. Now it's back to not working. I know this has to be some kind of electrical problem. Any ideas?
► Spark plug, coil arcing
Hi there, I have a 1986 Chevy Celebrity wagon base model. It has the 2.8 V-6 2-barrel carb. I've owned it since October 2015. Put a complete tune up in it after I bought it. Ran darn near flawless in any temperature until 2 weeks ago. Began hesitating and backfiring. I looked at the engine in the dark a few nights ago and noticed the coil arcing. I bought a "Drive Works" ignition coil from Avanced Auto and installed it. The car seem to run better for a day or so before reverting back to lagging and backfiring. Looked at the engine again in the dark and noticed the coil was still arcing. Took it back and bought an Accel ignition coil. Installed it this morning and the car ran badly from the start. Just looked at the engine a few hours ago in the dark and it was lighting up like a Christmas tree. Purple/bluish light everywhere. Coil was arcing, wires were arcing with each other, the coil to distributor wire was arcing out almost it's entire length against the air cleaner. Car still runs, at idle it will miss and at higher RPM's while driving is "pops" (backfires). I checked the distributor cap and rotor, they didn't look bad. There is only around 15,000 miles on all the tune up parts. Could be a bad coil ground, but I'm not sure how this coil grounds. I believe it's through the bracket? The only wires on the coil itself are the coil to distributor plug wire and 2 wires that plug into the coil itself. I know the newer coil runs hotter so what are the chances another complete tune up with better quality wires solves this problem? Thank you!
► 2016 Chevy Impala LT
I have a 16' Impala LT. I'm curious if anyone can answer my question about the speakers. The LTZ Impalas have and are marked with the BOSE system and more speakers I believe? I'm curious if the speakers in the LT are Bose also, or if they are different. If you look up part numbers there is 2 different speaker options without premium sound or with premium sound, but i've read that they might still be Bose speakers.If they are different can the LT speakers be switched out with Bose-plug and play?
► 2003 Monte Carlo 3.8 temperature and heater help needed
I have a 2003 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 engine not super charged.
Problem one: Changed the thermostat because I wasn't getting heat in the car and thought it was sticking open. Now, at idle it will go up to normal temperature idling in the driveway. If I drive down the road the temperature gauge drops about 25 degrees and stays there. The thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat but it runs well below that, by about 25 degrees, driving down the road.
Problem two. When the car is at normal temperature sitting idling, if I turn my heater fan on, the air is warm about a minute at most and cools down to about 45 degrees. The temperature control lever works. If I turn the heat down, the air gets colder. If I set it all the way up, I get 45 degree air. The only time I have any heat is by letting it idle to running temp and then it lasts about one minute. Driving down the road when the temperature gauge is down 25 degrees, there is no heat.
Any help greatly appreciated....
► Chevy Cruze - noisy transmission bearing?
I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze making a scraping noise coming from the vicinity of the manual transmission. I've heard a bad throw out bearing before. This sounds very similar. The difference is depressing the clutch doesn't help. The car must be in motion. It doesn't happen when stopped. I also don't hear it in reverse. Thoughts?
► 2005 Chevy Impala ignition
My ignition got busted out so I went to the pull apart and got one from 2004 Impala with keyless remote entrie how do I rest not them the 30 min relearn
► 2003 Chevrolet Impala 3.4 liter
Hello, I Am Looking For Help Diagnosing My Impala's Illness. About A Week Ago, my car overheated on the way home from a short trip. I Assumed it must be the thermostat stuck closed, so I Replaced it. Car Still Overheats. So I Replaced Water Pump. Car Still overheats, and Fan Does Not Come on, So I Replaced Fan. Fans Still do not come on, and horn does not work. I Took bottom horn off, (there are two) and tested it....BEEEEEP....Horn worked. Put Horn Back on, Took car to auto repair shop, and asked them to do an engine diagnostic check, which I thought meant they would hook it up to machine which would find short, etc. They used hand held scanner, and found no issues, but offered to fix my car for 495.00. Nice Guys. I brought car home, and checked it for short by pulling each individual fuse, using test light. No Bad Fuses Found. I am at a loss as to what the problem may be. with no horn, there is no beep when I lock my car, but lights flash letting me know its Locked. Also when I Hit Alarm button, lights flash but no horn. Please help me decipher this issue, as my car is upset I Haven't been driving it lately. ( And so is my boss lady.) There are no leaks (Visible), no dash indicator trouble lights, and I've never had any trouble with car prior to this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You For Reading This, And Thank You For Having A Page like this where People can come to get advise from those who know more than we do.
► 2006 CHEVY OPTRA (P0454, THEN P0452)
Below is the tests i have performed on the FTPS problem so far. I am a DIY'er and seem to have hit a block in the road
I have no wiring diagram for this cars FTPS circuit as i cannot find one. I have a service manual for a 2004 Optra and it doesn't list anything for the FTPS circuit.
NOTE: I do not have a Fancy dancy scanner with square waves etc. I only have a simple Actron scanner CP9580a and a DMM.
Here is what i have diagnosed so far:
With Key off
1.) I have continutity on the ground wire(black)
With Key on Engine off
2.) 5Volt Reference - tested 4.99V on the reference wire (gray)
3.) Signal Wire - jumped 5Vref to signal and backprobed the signal wire (ecm side of connector). Test showed 4.99v proving no connector fault.
CONNECTOR PLUGGED BACK IN,
4.) FTPS test - removed FTPS from Fuel Tank Pump assembly and applied -10kpa vacuum on the sensor and it ranged from 1.3v - 4.74v
After releasing the vacuum pressure voltage returns to starting point. (1.4v or 4.94) cant remember which was the starting point.
did this a few times to confirm that sensor fluctuated within this range...so seems to be working.
5.) Purge Valve - removed from car and applied voltage to test valve open close operation while applying vacuum - Valve opens
Also listened to the purge cycle with mechanic stethascope and valve was rattling away (while car running).
6.) Vent valve - removed from car and applied voltage to test valve open close operation while blowing thru it - Valve closes.
7.) Gas cap is brand new.
8.) The Drive Test Diagnosis - The MIL is on - "P0454 only" after resetting MIL and now 93km later i still haven't gotten the P0452 to reappear yet, but it will as i have done this many time already. With the DMM connected to ground and backprobed to the signal wire on connector (ecm side) i observed the Voltage reading while driving for 15 minutes. In City and on Highway the signal was perfect (1.4V-3.1V).
Went home let car cool and retested. Drove same distance never tromping on throttle. Stopped, waited a few minutes and restarted car and the MIL went off (expected). All the drive time the FTPS signal Voltage was perfect.
SO I APPLIED SOME FORCE TO HER ON THE NEXT TRIP FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL WHILE OBSERVING THE DMM VOLTAGE and sure enough the voltage dropped below threshhold and went haywire at times. (leading me to beleive the the sensor if faulty). This resulted in the MIL coming back on IMMEDIATELY after the second attempt.
Not sure what caused the FTPS to go haywire/eratic and go below .1 Volts (i think thats the threshhold which has to happen on 2 consecutive trips for the MIL to come on?).
But i have reservations about going out and replacing the sensor (throwing money at parts) until am absolutely sure about the fix.
I did close vent valve with my scanner and applied .5 psi shop air from the evap hose before the purge valve. Everthing seemed to hold pressure but i have no way of determining this as I dont have a fancy smoke machine with pressure gage). I do have a MityVac Vacuum pump which does both pressure and vacuum. I tryed to apply vacuum to the line at first but it didnt seems to be strong enough to pull vacuum or i may have not closed the vent valve (cant remember) I will try this again.
As mentioned I dont want to throw money at parts until 100% sure of fix.
PLEASE ADVISE, AS I AM NOT SURE WHICH FORK IN THE ROAD TO TAKE FOR THE NEXT STEP.
► 1994 camaro power window switch
I have a1994 Camaro z28 and driver side power window switch is broken it is a single switch not double cant find one
► engine not getting any gas
I just finished swapping engines in a 2004 Impala LS 3.8 v 6. Old engine had 236K on it and blew a head gasket bending a rod. After installing the new engine I am not getting any gas to the motor. Relays and fuses are all good. All connectors are good and I have found no loose or broken wires. The schematics show a low/no oil pressure switch or relay in the fuel pump circuit but I can not locate this part. Are they talking about the low oil sender unit down by the oil filter> I have tried jumping this sender to see if it made any difference. No joy. Any ideas short of a new fuel pump???
► Corvette transmission swap
I have a 1986 corvette with the 700r4 automatic. These are weak transmissions and I intend on building the motor so my question is how hard will it be to swap in a 4L80E auto overdrive, what it will require, and does anyone know the difference in the gear ratios of the 2 different transmissions? They are both 4 speed automatics...
► 2002 Impala crank but wont start sometimes!!!
I have a 02 Impala and I have changed the fuel pump, fuel pump filter, and the bcm. I have had the bcm programmed by the chevy dealer they also reprogrammed the theft system. But the car still at times will not start! I don't know if it helps to know that sometimes the turning signals don't work and the light for the gear placement is out on the dash. It always cranks like it wants to start but it doesn't. When I tow the car to the shop the funny thing is that it starts for them then when I get it home after it runs for about 20 mins and I turn it off it won't start again. Please Help!!!
► 06 impala 3.5
My 06, impala 3.5 just died going down the road the key does nothing the dash lights don't come on can't roll up the window. And the scan tool I plug into the UBD2 linking error. Under the hood I found a blown ECM 10 amp fuse replaced it and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe my ECM needs replaced but of course I want to confirm before I spend the money with someone smarter than me. Thanks for what ever help you can give
► 06 impala 3.5
My 06, impala 3.5 just died going down the road the key does nothing the dash lights don't come on can't roll up the window. Scan tool that I plug into UBD2 says linking error. Under the hood I found a blown ECM 10 amp fuse replaced it and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe my ECM needs replaced but of course I want to confirm before I spend the money with someone smarter than me. Thanks for what ever help you can give
► Chevy Impala Won't Crank Over
hello I have a chevy impala 2001 that wont crank for about 15 minutes then cranks,and now the battery light come on with the coolant light and the car cut off any and every where.the alternator works and I have coolant .I change the water pump cause of a leak .I cant drive the car cause it cuts off on me .please help me I have talked to so many mechanics and my car is still siting for months ,tell me what to do thanks
► 2004 Malibu Classic Engine Swap
I have a 2004 Malibu Classic with a 2.2L blown engine, and I also have a 2005 Pontiac Vue with a good 3.5L and am trying to figure out if the engine mounts are the same and if I can use the same transmission. I have heard they are bolt up but want to be sure before I start this.
► 1994 chevy camaro with a v6 3.4
Well I changed the timing chain and gears on this car but while putting new wires and plugs I notice a wire plug in was off of where it went to its a gray box mounted on the passenger side intake towards the back of the intake car was running when I notice the wires so I plugged them back in and the car died I took the wires back off and started the car again and it started so I need to know what that sensor is for and what it works can anybody help me please
► 2009 Chevy Imapla Radio Has No Power
My radio has no power. Fuses in car are OK. Fuses in fuse box under hood are OK too but if I take the fuse for the radio and put it back in the radio works for a while then stops. Tried new fuse same result radio works for a while but loses power. Gave up on it and then a few days later the radio power came back on it's own lasted a few days then out again.