Newest Chevy Car Forum Questions And Answers
► Car dies when put in gear
When I start my 2015 chevy malibu and put in gear it dies. And battery is drained.
► 2007 trailblazer low beams not working fuses ck ok
2007 trailblazer SS day time lights & low beam not working checked & replaced bulbs ,fuses ok ? still no high beams lights work turn signals work is tere a relay some were bad !
► Re: van
If you have a no crank and no lights verify that you have battery voltage ay the battery terminals. If you have 12.5 volts at the two posts of the battery then you need to track down the open circuit. Could be the negative or the positive side.
If the battery is dead then charge the battery and look for a draw on the battery. Something is draining the battery down.
► Camaro 1994 3.4 24x sensor
Hello, i have 1994 camaro v6. It starts and then after couple or more seconds (or if i press gas pedal) shuts off. Obd1 diagnostic shows 36 code for 24x crank sensor. I tried to test it with multimeter and it will not show any signs of life. All wires are good, sensor gets 12v ground and signal wire to pcm is okay also. I changed pcm and nothing changed. Changed crank sensor and nothing. Then i tried to put a3144 hall efect sensor but still no change. If you have any clue whats wrong please help!
► Re: Head gasket??????
if it looks like a pressure hose that's leaking what does it go to on each end? Can you see oil squirting out? Does it just have oil on the hose and it's dripping off the hose?
If the leak is coming from a hose what makes you think of a head gasket problem?
► Re: Serpentine belt
make, model and engine size would be needed to view the belt routing.
I have replaced some serpentine belts to bypass the AC compressor when the compressor went bad and they didn't want to fix it but needed to drive the car but Never tried to bypass the power steering before. Why would you want to not have power steering?
Most power steering vehicles (that the power steering isn't working) are harder to drive than manual steering cars.
Newer cars tie in the braking to the steering system. Traction control will activate during normal driving and cornering. Power steering not working may affect handling more than just steering.
► Re: 2000 malibu camshaft position sensor location
Here is a picture of the engine
► Vacuum Hose Location
[image][/image]There are two openings under the throttle body plate for hoses don't know which one goes where what hose comes in the firewall one comes from the water pump is which one goes on the left which one goes in the right or does it matter
► Re: ABS code c1233 impala
C1233 is set when the brake computer sees that the right front speed sensor is open or shorted. If you have the scanner that you read the code with, can it graph the sensors? What would be good is if you can graph the wheel speed sensors and see what data they show. Most likely, you won't have any right front signal. It could be a bad wheel bearing. (sensor is built into the bearing) It could be a break in the wheel speed sensor wiring. It's not uncommon for the harness that goes to the sensor to break where it is always bending when the vehicle goes over bumps and when turning.
If you see that you have no sensor signal for the R/F sensor, I would jack up the front of the car and unplug the wheel speed sensor wiring and use a volt meter in the sensor. Connect to the two prongs that go to the sensor and turn the wheel hub. you should see the rotation by spikes in voltage. The faster you turn the more you see the meter move. Check the right and left side. see if they both look the same when you turn them. If the left side looks normal (it should since you don't have a code for the left) does it look like the right side? If you don't have a signal from the right side then you probably need to replace the wheel bearing. If you replace the bearing I would go ahead and replace the wire harness for that sensor too. Since your there anyways.
If the right sensor looks good and matches the left side when you turn the hub, then plug the sensors back in and look at the scanner while the hub turns. Does it match what you saw when you measured the sensors? If you don't get the same signal at the computer that you got at the sensor then most likely you have a broken wire in the wire harness. The harness that connects to the wheel speed sensor is a wire that plugs into the sensor just goes from the sensor to the main harness. It doesn't go all the way to the computer. So it's not too bad to change. Just make sure that you run it the exact same as the old one comes out. This way it won't rub or chafe in other components.
Jacking up the vehicle: make sure the parking brake is on. Make sure you have safe jack stands under the vehicle. Be safe. Do not test the sensors with the engine running. Testing at the sensors is with the engine off key off. Testing the signal to the computer is with the key on and the engine off.
let me know what you find out.
► 2005 Impala dash lights
05' Impala LS 3800 vin K. TRAC and ABS lights are on. What is the best way to encounter this problem?
► Chevy Lumina Coolant leak
My 98 Chevy Lumina 3.1 L is leaking coolant tour the firewall area. What is a possible cause other than the intake gasket
► Ignitionswitch replaced passlock bypass needed
Need to bypass passlock
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► Re: Monte Carlo SS Knocking Overheated
the overheat tabs for gasoline motors usually melt at 260 degrees F.They don't come on new factory motors but many rebuilders and/or used motor sellers will install them to protect themselves against warranty claims. Most companies put at least 4 tabs on a motor. on the head and on the side of the block. They should look like a small button glued to the motor.
► Won't run after warm up but fires
2000 GM 3800 starts normally when cold but sputters and dies after warm up. Will fire but not run again until cool. I've read many posts about this but no solution. I promise to post my solution when I get it figured out, with some help. : )
When warmed up, not starting: Fuel 48psi, spark jumps 35mm gap at end of all plug wires. Cam pulses once per 2 crank revolutions and crank 3/18 pulses are normal 5v also(rotating by hand while probing ICM connector, injectors unplugged). DTC is random misfire. ECT, IAT, TPS, MAF, MAP read normal values. Unplugging MAF makes no change.
When hot it will start and run if reved up while cranking but misfires and will die if rpm gets to low.
From what I have read a bad crank sensor usually causes no spark when it heats up. After the car warms up a bit then died I get pulses from it and spark. Does it seem like the ICM? Or maybe CPU? Thanks!
► 06 Equinox - Window Rattles at 70 MPH
Driver window rattles at frequency that almost sounds like a whistle at 65-70 MPH.....worse if wind is blowing. If I apply LOTS of pressure in one specific location I can stop it, but I cannot stuff a towel or anything between window and weatherstrip tight enough to stop it........cannot figure out what is doing this. Any ideas?
► Brake pads/rotors: will shop install my parts?
I need my brake pads replaced and my rotors either resurfaced or replaced. I am getting quotes from the usual places like Midas, Meineke, etc. . The part prices they quote seem really high. I can get the same parts elsewhere for much lower. But I definitely cannot install the rotors myself. Will these shops install parts that I bring in and charge for labur only? If these shops don't, will local private auto repair shops do that?
Most of the time when I go to car service places, I feel ripped off because they seem to oversell things that I cannot do much about because the car is already opened up and they insist that the additional stuff must be done or bad things will happen. So what is the best cost-effective way to go about this?
► trailblazer No ac temp low
I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer. I have read of the forms where temperature gauge goes to zero and the AC shuts off. I replaced the temperature sensor which was no fun. Same issue exists. Does anyone know where I go from here.
► No reverse, acceleration issue
I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier that I purchased about a month and a half almost 2 months ago the car has had a total of three owners I am the third the second was my brother the car has 152 something thousand miles and my brother did sell it to me cheap because I needed a car to get me to and from work and it does not have reverse. When you try to put the car in Reverse you can hear it try to engage you can hear it click and you can feel it try to engage but when you try to put your foot on the gas it does not move however if you are on a slight incline and even in my driveway that is completely flat it will roll back on its own when it is in neutral it will not roll back at all in my driveway like it does in reverse. When my brother still had the car he had someone look at it the guy he had look at it does not know anything I've read multiple reviews about him and he has cheated multiple people out of his their money that he has ruined their Motors there Transmissions rip them off he's just a bad guy all the way around he told my brother that there was metal shavings in the transmission fluid and that the bands in the transmission were bad and that even if the fluid and the filter were changed in the transmission that it would completely ruin the transmission and it would no longer run at all currently up until Saturday the car ran perfectly fine in Drive as of Saturday it started acting weird it started having issues with accelerating and then as of Sunday it overheated on me and on Monday I replace the thermostat after replacing the thermostat it overheated again we bled the line and got all the air out and also ran a toggle switch because the radiator fan was not kicking on the water pump on the car is new I know the car is not getting hot but the temperature gauge is going crazy it goes from running at regular temperature too cold as if the car was just started even when it's been running for 30 minutes or longer it has a really hard time accelerating it makes a really loud whining sound that started as of Saturday we realize that there is a hole and a crack in the reservoir for the power steering pump reservoir I do intend on getting a new reservoir on Friday I'm just not understanding what could be causing these new issues along with the issues with the reverse as well when I check the transmission fluid it does smell burnt and if it is a brown color instead of the normal red color. As for the accelerating issues when that did happen on Sunday it was as if the car would overheat as the RPMs would get higher the higher the RPM the hotter the car would get I did get it to the side of the road and pulled over before it got too hot so I know for sure I did not blow a head gasket this is the six Cavalier I've owned so I know them like the back of my hand but this one has me dumbfounded! I personally have had it looked at by four different mechanics I've had one person tell me that it's the transmission is completely bad I've had one person tell me that it just needs new fluid and a new filter I've had one tell me it's the solenoid and I've had one tell me that it is the pump that is inside the transmission. I've reached out to multiple transmission shops in my area and none of them will look at it because they State because it is such an old car and it does not have reverse that I'm better off just selling the car to a junkyard and going and getting a newer car but I do not have the money to do that nor the credit. And I personally like my car and you not want to go in debt for someone else's headache I would rather fix what I have even if it comes down to having to replace the transmission I just don't want to get ripped off!
► jump starting late model vehicles (2007 and up)
I'm doing roadside service using a 2007 HHR.My question is when doing jump starts isn't it safer
to have my car not running to prevent damage to the ECM (computer)?
This is performed after trying to start the dead battery with A jump box, but fails.
► 01 Chevy Cavalier Running Hot, overheating after 40mins
I have a 01 Chevalier 2.2L, 146k miles. Last week as I was getting off the highway the temp gauge spiked indicating overheating. Took it to the garage. They said it was a bad thermostat. They replaced it. They also replace the coolant extension tank cap. I ran the car for half a day on my normal runs after picking it up and it stayed at the 190 - 195 range. Pretty normal for LA traffic in the Summer. Well on the commute home after about 20 to 30 mins the temp gauge started to climb and began floating between 225 and 240. This would spike higher if I was stuck crawling along in traffic and drop if I was cruising, the air from travelling at 65 to 80 mph obviously cooling the engine down, but it still runs hot. After about 40mins to an hour of this, it peaked in the red at around 260 and the indicator light would come on. It did the same thing on my way into work the following morning. After turning the car off and sitting for a while the temp would drop to manageable levels. Its still hot, but not red lining. When there isn’t much traffic I can make it home, which about 15 to 20 miles depending on which route I take, it will not go over 240. The garage wanted to check the water pump to see if there is dirt in the or replace it, which would have costed about $500 to $600. I told them I would do it myself. If it is the water pump I can replace it myself. They also said it could be that the radiator is bad (They were not specific about that), but I should start with the water pump. I would rather not just start throwing parts at it without knowing for sure, which is what the garage wanted to do. I’m trying not to spend money I don’t have to.
A few detail about things I’ve ruled out. I am not losing any power, nor is backfiring, no white smoke or dripping from the exhaust so I no for certain that it is not the head gasket. The garage confirmed this with a compressor test. While idling, the radiator fan does turn on when the A/C is turned on. Heater does blow hot air. I idled it for 15mins and the temp gauge climbed to around 220, but never went over. The radiator fan did turn on at this temp. I checked it and it was not blowing any hot air anywhere, only cool air, even while idling, so likely not a clog. However, temp gauge did not drop when fan came on. I have not seen any leaks anywhere, other than dripping from the A/C when it has been running for a while. Coolant is full and has the level has not gone down.
Somethings I noticed while driving other than previously mentioned. Driving with the A/C on while sitting in traffic makes it heat up faster. Without it on, the temp gauge climbs slower. I also noticed that if I have to brake hard, the gauge dips down 5 to 10 degrees. I’m not sure what to make of that. Anyone got any ideas to narrow this down so I’m not spending money and time on parts I don’t have to? Any help would be appreciated.
► 2005 Chevy Uplander front blower problem.
I'm having a strange issue with my front blower. All was working fine, then one morning I get in and the front blower is completely dead. I checked the fuses and all was good there. The rear heat still works fine so at least there's still some heat in the van. Nothing for about three weeks, then one day I get in and the blower works again. It lasted for about three weeks until it stopped again. Another two weeks of nothing then it started working for a few days. Now it's back to not working. I know this has to be some kind of electrical problem. Any ideas?
► Spark plug, coil arcing
Hi there, I have a 1986 Chevy Celebrity wagon base model. It has the 2.8 V-6 2-barrel carb. I've owned it since October 2015. Put a complete tune up in it after I bought it. Ran darn near flawless in any temperature until 2 weeks ago. Began hesitating and backfiring. I looked at the engine in the dark a few nights ago and noticed the coil arcing. I bought a "Drive Works" ignition coil from Avanced Auto and installed it. The car seem to run better for a day or so before reverting back to lagging and backfiring. Looked at the engine again in the dark and noticed the coil was still arcing. Took it back and bought an Accel ignition coil. Installed it this morning and the car ran badly from the start. Just looked at the engine a few hours ago in the dark and it was lighting up like a Christmas tree. Purple/bluish light everywhere. Coil was arcing, wires were arcing with each other, the coil to distributor wire was arcing out almost it's entire length against the air cleaner. Car still runs, at idle it will miss and at higher RPM's while driving is "pops" (backfires). I checked the distributor cap and rotor, they didn't look bad. There is only around 15,000 miles on all the tune up parts. Could be a bad coil ground, but I'm not sure how this coil grounds. I believe it's through the bracket? The only wires on the coil itself are the coil to distributor plug wire and 2 wires that plug into the coil itself. I know the newer coil runs hotter so what are the chances another complete tune up with better quality wires solves this problem? Thank you!
► 2016 Chevy Impala LT
I have a 16' Impala LT. I'm curious if anyone can answer my question about the speakers. The LTZ Impalas have and are marked with the BOSE system and more speakers I believe? I'm curious if the speakers in the LT are Bose also, or if they are different. If you look up part numbers there is 2 different speaker options without premium sound or with premium sound, but i've read that they might still be Bose speakers.If they are different can the LT speakers be switched out with Bose-plug and play?
► 2003 Monte Carlo 3.8 temperature and heater help needed
I have a 2003 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 engine not super charged.
Problem one: Changed the thermostat because I wasn't getting heat in the car and thought it was sticking open. Now, at idle it will go up to normal temperature idling in the driveway. If I drive down the road the temperature gauge drops about 25 degrees and stays there. The thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat but it runs well below that, by about 25 degrees, driving down the road.
Problem two. When the car is at normal temperature sitting idling, if I turn my heater fan on, the air is warm about a minute at most and cools down to about 45 degrees. The temperature control lever works. If I turn the heat down, the air gets colder. If I set it all the way up, I get 45 degree air. The only time I have any heat is by letting it idle to running temp and then it lasts about one minute. Driving down the road when the temperature gauge is down 25 degrees, there is no heat.
Any help greatly appreciated....