New timing kit, crank and cam sensors,oil pump,spark plugs and wires,coils,lifters, pushrods,oil level sensor,oil pan gasket,heads rebuilt, supercharger gone threw,all injectors cleaned,fuel pump new.
Fuel builds up, and motor backfires, will not run, code is timing, but reset it 6 times, same outcome.
why are you asking about valve lash?
Look at bank two fuel trims. Are they getting close to being lean also but not quite as bad as bank one yet? Could be a dirty MAF.
Is there a freeze frame for the code? What is the code's actual number? Freeze frame would help a lot because it will tell you what was happening to the engine when the code was set.
What is the make, model, year and what engine does the vehicle have?
Most of the time, engine codes only give you a direction to look and not what is actually wrong. I remember that back in the day, even dealerships were replacing a lot of oxygen sensors when they got a lean code. Fords especially. The codes would come back in a short time. It wasn't the O2 sensors it was the MAF would get dirty and the dirt would at as insulation so the air flow would show less than actual. The computer sees the MAF number and sends the calibrated fuel but then the O2 sensor would measure the exhaust and see that there isn't enough fuel getting to the mixture. That sets a lean code. And the engine is running lean. Bad info in = bad info out.
As for the voltage reading, you should verify the readings. It is possible that the computer may have a different voltage from battery voltage from bad connections somewhere between the battery and the computer. Corrosion in a connector of at a ground bolt can cause resistance dropping the voltage. So, check for good power and grounds at the ECM
the transmission should be a computer controlled trans.
Have you checked your trans fluid level? If it's very low you may be running it out of fluid.
you should have your vehicle scanned. See if there are any trans codes. Scan the trans to see what the pressures are and what is happening when you drive it.
If it works in first gear, can you get it going up fast enough to put it into drive and skip second? Don't over rev the engine but get it up to a speed that third gear would drive at. If the trans continues after that then second gear may be gone. Need a trans rebuild.
I live in Europe and I own Buick Regal Sportback 2018 made in accordance with US standards. There is another standard of tail lighting to be in Europe. Coner signal light to be orange and rear stop light to be red and commonly it is combined with tail position lights.
Unfortunately, corder light and rear stop light are combined in Buick and when I changed my light from Opel Insignia Grandsport and I have orange corner and stop now combined.
Do someone have wire diagram for Buick Regal 2018? I need to fix it.
Or does someone know if I change Body control module to Opel's one, will it fix the issue?
Thanks in advance
here is a picture of where the fuse #17 should be. By the book anyways. Sometimes the book is not correct.
If the fuse is good and has power with the ignition key in the run position, then you have to remove the hvac controls and check the powers and grounds. If all the powers and grounds are good you will probably have to replace the hvac control module.
Have the vehicle scanned. They should be able to scan the hvac module. I'm thinking that there won't be any communication with that module because if nothing lights up or turns on there probably won't be any computer communication. Scanning for all codes may turn up a clue before the module went completely out. It's an easy check.
I have a 2003 buick lesabre limited.. that blows cold air instead of heat. System was flushed about 5 times, we checked the actuator doors- seems to be doing its job- we then changed the heater core, and bled/burped the system to get any air locks out. After it was put together heat worked great for 3 days and now it's back to cold air again.... (oh water pump was also changed) only thing left that we did not change was the thermostat... though, I'm not sure it's the cause. Could another air lock happen days after everything was replaced? This has been a nightmare to figure out!
- No amount of fiddling with the HVAC buttons in Auto or Manual mode seemed to fix the problem. Most of my tests were in manual mode because Auto seemed to behave the same. Also DUAL mode was OFF during these tests.
- Changing the temperature changed the temperature of the air on the passenger side but the driver side remained cold and unchanged. When temperature was set lower, both side would push cold air. At max high-temp, still cold air on driver side and then passenger side back to hot.
- I performed a 'reset' by disconnecting the battery for an hour
- Upon re-connection, the first thing I noticed was that the yellow Auto button light on the HVAC head was working. This wasn't working before.
- The second thing I noticed that the fan wouldn't come on. By fiddling with the buttons for 5 minutes, the fan came on.
- However, as soon as the fan came on, lo and behold, I got hot air coming from both driver and passenger side vents!
- To verify that this was not just a one-time thing, I turned the car off and then on.
- Immediately the original problem returned: cold air on driver side, hot air passenger side.
- The fan was also hard to start but I noticed that if I removed and put back the blower fuse, the fan would almost always start working again. (The fan is more of a red-herring....the temperature problem is the main thing I need to solve.)
- Btw, somewhere along the way the Auto button yellow light stopped working again.
- I noticed something weird: When HVAC was off, whenever a pushed a button to turn the unit on, I could hear the engine strain. It acted like, no matter what, the A/C compressor was turning on (even though the temperature was set to max-high and it was cold outside).
- Sure enough, I noticed the A/C clutch would engage whenever a button was pushed on the HVAC. I removed the fuse for the A/C clutch.
- From this point on, the compressor did not engage, however the driver side vent continued to blow "cool" (but not cold) air. Passenger side still hot.
- During testing, somehow, magically, after the HVAC was on for about 10 minutes, the driver side started blowing hot air.
- I turned car off and then on, and the problem returned immediately. The driver side blowing cold air, passenger side hot
- This morning on way to work, I waited to see if the driver side would magically start blowing hot. It didn't.
- Then, after about 10 minutes, just on a hunch, I lowered the temperature as low as it could go, and then raised it again to max
- Voila, both sides start blowing hot air.
- My question: Is there a driver side thermostat separate from the passenger side? If so, it seems like the driver side thermostat always thinks that the temperature is "too hot" and thus turns the A/C on and then channels the A/C cold air into the driver side vents because it thinks it should be cooling the driver off even though it should be heating things up. Also, apparently, even when the A/C clutch is disconnected, it puts some flap in position to channel air from the A/C to the driver side vent, rather than channel air from the heater.
- At first thought, one might think that the driver side actuator that controls a flap may be at fault. However, if this were true, why would the HVAC be initiating the A/C clutch when it shouldn't? If it was just a flap actuator problem and the thermostat was working properly, the A/C clutch would not be engaged, but the driver side would blow "cool" (outside) air.
Thoughts and suggestions much appreciated.
I also have a parking brake light on. I have replaced the the parking brake light release switch along with the brake fluid level sensor and park brake light is still on