I have a 2003 buick lesabre limited.. that blows cold air instead of heat. System was flushed about 5 times, we checked the actuator doors- seems to be doing its job- we then changed the heater core, and bled/burped the system to get any air locks out. After it was put together heat worked great for 3 days and now it's back to cold air again.... (oh water pump was also changed) only thing left that we did not change was the thermostat... though, I'm not sure it's the cause. Could another air lock happen days after everything was replaced? This has been a nightmare to figure out!
- No amount of fiddling with the HVAC buttons in Auto or Manual mode seemed to fix the problem. Most of my tests were in manual mode because Auto seemed to behave the same. Also DUAL mode was OFF during these tests.
- Changing the temperature changed the temperature of the air on the passenger side but the driver side remained cold and unchanged. When temperature was set lower, both side would push cold air. At max high-temp, still cold air on driver side and then passenger side back to hot.
- I performed a 'reset' by disconnecting the battery for an hour
- Upon re-connection, the first thing I noticed was that the yellow Auto button light on the HVAC head was working. This wasn't working before.
- The second thing I noticed that the fan wouldn't come on. By fiddling with the buttons for 5 minutes, the fan came on.
- However, as soon as the fan came on, lo and behold, I got hot air coming from both driver and passenger side vents!
- To verify that this was not just a one-time thing, I turned the car off and then on.
- Immediately the original problem returned: cold air on driver side, hot air passenger side.
- The fan was also hard to start but I noticed that if I removed and put back the blower fuse, the fan would almost always start working again. (The fan is more of a red-herring....the temperature problem is the main thing I need to solve.)
- Btw, somewhere along the way the Auto button yellow light stopped working again.
- I noticed something weird: When HVAC was off, whenever a pushed a button to turn the unit on, I could hear the engine strain. It acted like, no matter what, the A/C compressor was turning on (even though the temperature was set to max-high and it was cold outside).
- Sure enough, I noticed the A/C clutch would engage whenever a button was pushed on the HVAC. I removed the fuse for the A/C clutch.
- From this point on, the compressor did not engage, however the driver side vent continued to blow "cool" (but not cold) air. Passenger side still hot.
- During testing, somehow, magically, after the HVAC was on for about 10 minutes, the driver side started blowing hot air.
- I turned car off and then on, and the problem returned immediately. The driver side blowing cold air, passenger side hot
- This morning on way to work, I waited to see if the driver side would magically start blowing hot. It didn't.
- Then, after about 10 minutes, just on a hunch, I lowered the temperature as low as it could go, and then raised it again to max
- Voila, both sides start blowing hot air.
- My question: Is there a driver side thermostat separate from the passenger side? If so, it seems like the driver side thermostat always thinks that the temperature is "too hot" and thus turns the A/C on and then channels the A/C cold air into the driver side vents because it thinks it should be cooling the driver off even though it should be heating things up. Also, apparently, even when the A/C clutch is disconnected, it puts some flap in position to channel air from the A/C to the driver side vent, rather than channel air from the heater.
- At first thought, one might think that the driver side actuator that controls a flap may be at fault. However, if this were true, why would the HVAC be initiating the A/C clutch when it shouldn't? If it was just a flap actuator problem and the thermostat was working properly, the A/C clutch would not be engaged, but the driver side would blow "cool" (outside) air.
Thoughts and suggestions much appreciated.
I also have a parking brake light on. I have replaced the the parking brake light release switch along with the brake fluid level sensor and park brake light is still on
Anyone knows what can it be?
I have found 2 methods and would like to know how to do this reset after an oil change.
here is what I found on it>
some say stomp the gas pedal 3 times fast with Ignition on ,
others say use the Eng/MET button I never touched this maybe you can help me .
Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, 2000-05
Turn the ignition to ON. Press the GAGE INFO button on the driver information center (DIG) switch to view OIL LIFE INDEX. Press and hold the RESET button on the DIG until the display reads OIL LIFE INDEX 100% NORMAL. The engine oil life monitor is now reset.. Turn the ignition OFF.
Buick Terraza, 2005-06 Buick Park Avenue, 1997-99
When OIL LIGHT INDEX CHANGE OIL appears in the Driver Information Center, press and hold the RESET or TRIP RESET button while the oil life index is being displayed. After 5 seconds, the oil life will change to 100%.
Buick Le Sabre, 1995-99; Buick Park Avenue, 1995-96
When “CHANGE OIL SOON” light is illuminated, access the reset button in the glove box. With the engine off, and the ignition switch in the RUN position, press and hold the button for at least 5 seconds. The light will flash four times then go out.
Buick Allure Buick Lacrosse, 2005-06 Buick Century, 1997-05 Buick Regal, 1996-04 Buick Roadmaster, 1995-96
Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds.
If the CHANGE OIL SOON indicator flashes two times, the system is resetting. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL SOON indicator comes on and stays on for five seconds, repeat the procedure.
what can I do to get the best smoothest Idle when not in gear?
Have a 2009 Buick Lacrosse 3.8L that has slight oscillating power surges between 37 and 42mph, with no
driveability issues other than this one and no DTC codes. Graphic monitoring of the engine ignition timing
with Torque software indicates oscillations between 23 and 27 degrees in precise agreement with the power surges.
Lab scope indicates Ignition Control Module (ICM) X3, X18 and camshaft signals to the ICM are within parameters.
IC timing control from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the ICM appear within parameters. Has anyone
experienced this same issue and if so were you able determine a solution?