Chevy Silverado Leaking And Overheating When Towing

Question:
Chevy 2004 Silverado 2500 HD. Engine size 6.6L V8. When pulling our camper, our truck heats to 240 and will do this when pulling up hill. It will cool back down quickly and has no other problems.

This weekend we noticed that antifreeze was coming from the front and drivers side of the block. Could this be a water pump or maybe a blown head? I need to now where to start. The oil is fine no funny color or smell. There is also no excess of smoke or sounds. It runs fine and no warning lights. It just is leaking fluids and gets warm when pulling the camper 7500 lbs. Thanks for your help.

Answer:
Yes, this could be a water pump. Not likely a head gasket or other major problem. A pressure test is needed to pinpoint the leak. Or, look under the truck to see if there is signs of coolant leaking on the water pump pulley, or the lower radiator hose. This would mean a leaking water pump.

Question:
I have a 2001 chevy Silverado and the a/c compressor will not come on we have checked all of the fuses and all of the connections and they all have fire to them but can not get any power to the compressor would the low pressure switch have to do with this.

Answer:
Yes it could be either the low or high pressure switch, but it could also be a problem with the compressor itself. Have you checked to see if you're getting power to the compressor connector when it should be turned on?

There is no power to the compressor but there is power to the low and the high pressure switch ?

Have you checked the relay for the compressor to see if it 'clicking' or getting power when turned on?

Where are the low and the high pressure switches located there is one on dryer where is the other.

I'm pretty sure it is NOT a switch problem. Have you checked the relay for the compressor to see if it is 'clicking' or gets powered up when you turn the a/c on?

Question:
have a 2002 GMC 1500 5.3 L 2WD extended cab, 183,000 mi. Two weeks ago it ran hot~ 250+ when I got on the interstate. Once I pulled off the temp dropped. I found the suction hose collapsing at ~1500 rpm. I replaced the hoses, flushed the system with cleaner but now it runs at 235 will drop then run up again. I have removed the thermostat, replaced the fan clutch, checked the fan, checked the water pump and pressure washed the exterior of the radiator core. It's not the gauge or the sensor. The temp builds gradually to about 200 then quickly rises. It will drop but eventually stabilizes at around 235+-.

Answer:
It seems that doing a coolant flush helped the problem. This may because it was dirty. I would suggest having the radiator checked for be restricted. If you can get a laser infra red thermometer, let the engine get hot at idle, then test different areas of the radiator looking for cold spots. You would notice a large difference in temperature. This would indicate there is no coolant flowing in that area, so it is restricted.

With the engine hot and running, look for bubbles in the cooling system. This would indicate a blown headgasket. I would also do a compression check to look for a headgasket problem.

Question:
1991 Chevy C2500.
1) Volt meter pulses when turn signal is used. Bought new one but no change.
2) Temp control unit. head to toe bi-level indicator - all 5 levels blink and accasionaly doesn't change level. Also, sometimes A/C doesn't blow cold air. I've had freon, valves and switches checked 2x under hood. The TCU has been repaired by a electronics repair shop. They claim its good.
3) plug phone charger into lighter and it blows the fuse.

Answer:
Meter pulsing is a common thing on older trucks. Sometimes it is an alternator problem, sometimes a corroded wiring or ground problem, most times just nothing to worry about. A/C control head blinking or no A/C is always a bad control head. Cigar lighter is usually a bad accesory being plugged into it or there is corrosion inside lighter or even a dime inside it shorting it out.