The service engine soon light is on.
Question :my hazard lights will not stop flashing when i press the button on or off. I cannot use my
turn signals because of this. I changed my turn signal and hazzard switch but it still just flashes
they wont tern off with the button. Can you help me troubleshoot this problem???
Answer:
Has any work been done to the car just prior to this condition? If you tilt the steering
wheel while it is happening, does it change anything? I await your reply.
Question:
1998 Park Avenue 3800 Series 2, low mileage car. Have engine miss due to random arcing between 2-5 coil hold-down screw and secondary side of the coil near the plug wire. It’s worse on damp days but also intermittently occurs in dry weather. Spark plugs and spark plug wires are new, coils a few years old. Have removed and cleaned up ignition module bracket and surfaces to cylinder head, along with re-terminating the ground lead from the ignition module harness.
Why would the spark arc to ground rather than thru the plug wires? Could block to head grounding be a problem? Ignition Module? Replace wires and plugs again? Most perplexing ignition problem I’ve ever encountered. Any suggestions?
Answer:
You hit the answer right on the head when you said it seams to be worse when damp outside. That is actually one of the tests for a misfire - spray a water bottle on the coil and wires and look for the spark.
You have a bad ignition coil. Check to make sure the inside of the wire on the coil tower is not corroded first, but yes, a bad coil. The reason the spark jumps to the screw is because electricity looks for the easiest path to ground. Going through the high resistance of the plug wire and the spark plugs is a total higher resistance than to the screw. Moisture makes an even easier path to ground.
Your idea of the module to block ground being a problem was a good one, we have seen that before. But, that would effect all coils and the module and would cause more / different problems if that were the cause.
Question:
Buick Lacrosse – No Start.
Car died while driving it. So.. in an effort to try and start the car, we did a little testing. Battery is good. Had it charged and tested under a load. It seems we have a problem with the front compartment fuse block fuse plate. Using a multimeter, I get 12.37v everywhere on the block fuse plate until I touch the starter cable connection and I get nothing.
Should I try and swap that out? Also, the ignition fuse looked burnt so I replaced that. After that, we now get a click at the 300 amp relay between the positive battery jumper post and the starter cable post but still no start. I also get a weird prompt on my dash display saying to open and close the drivers and passenger windows. We also hear a weird humming sound after I try to start the car which sounds like it’s coming from under the alternator and we have no idea what that is. With no power going to the starter, we’re thinking that the front compartment fuse block fuse plate is bad and the 300 amp relay between the positive battery post and the starter cable post is not working properly. Thoughts?
Answer:
Test Starter Relay: The starter relay is responsible for sending power to the starter motor when you turn the ignition key. Use a multimeter to test the starter relay for continuity and proper operation. If the relay is faulty, it may need to be replaced.
Check Fuse Block Fuse Plate: Since you suspect a problem with the fuse plate, carefully inspect the fuse block fuse plate for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Use a flashlight to examine the fuse plate closely, paying attention to the terminals and connections where the starter cable is attached. Clean any corrosion or debris from the terminals and ensure that the connections are tight and secure.