2000 Honda CRV warm idle problem engine dies

[NissanDude]

I have a 1990 Nissan Stanza. I've changed the fuel pump ,filter, spark plugs wires and distributer, i am now at a loss. Ii thought it was a vapor lock after a while it went away and ran fine now it wont start at all.

I'm looking to find out what symptoms show a bad timing chain. I'm a single mother and i need to fix this asap.

I've put too much into it now and i cant figure out what next to try thanks.

[Karl]

Vapor lock would not cause your Nissan to not start when the engine is cold. A low or no fuel pressure condition can give similar symptoms as vapor lock.

You are going to need to start with the basics. Do you have fuel pressure and spark?

A broken timing chain will cause compression to be low on a few cylinders, and backfiring when trying to start it.

[Kayladrury]

My 1994 Honda Accord LX has no spark, loses voltage to crankshaft position sensor during cranking. The voltage starts at 8 volts and drops to -5.6 volts. I've installed a new crank sensor distributor and coil. I bought the car not running, it has a junkyard ECM/ECU. So, I'm not sure when the problem occurred. Please help, thanks!!

[carriedi]

wow, you replaced most of the stuff. take the distributor cap and rotor off. have someone crank the engine over and check for spark out of the coil with a test light. If you have no spark you should check the wires going to the coil. Disconnect both wires. turn the key to the run position and find out which of the two disconnected wires has power. If one has power that's good. Now hook the wire that doesn't have power to your test light and the other end of the test light to battery +. Crank the engine over and see if the light flickers as it cranks. (if you have a logic probe you could do this test without disconnecting the wires. just look for the probe to switch from red to green very quickly)

ECM's have been found to cause a no spark. Igniters have too. Some after market distributors fail out of the box.

[Kayladrury]

I have an external coil

[carriedi]

that makes it easier. you do the same thing without having to take the cap off. the coil should have marks to tell you what is battery (+) and (-)

[johnpurtee]

okay so, my 94 honda accord has a few issues but im fairly certain its all the same problem. ok first problem: sometimes my fuel pump will not kick on, im not sure if this is important but ive noticed it dose this mostly when its cooler outside. to get the pump to kick on i disconnect the battery and reconnect it. that generally solves the problem. the fuel pump will come on and then i can start the car.
second problem; this is a recent problem, my car will not idle properly, it will idle low, then shut off, while im parked. and when i take my foot off the gas while driving, it acts like it wants to shut off. im thinking its not getting enough fuel.

okay here is a little history and information about the car specifically. i purchased this car about 8 months ago, and all the problems i have mentioned, i had when i got the car. then when it seemed to get warmer the problems stopped. or happened less frequently. when i purchased the car about 8 months ago i changed the fuel filter, and just before i purchased it the original owner (an old co-worker of mine) he informed me, he had just changed the master fuel relay. which for this model and year is a big problem. also note, the battery in the car is not the battery that is supposed to be in the car. the one thats in it is a deep cycle boat battery. the battery is a size 24ms-6. (625 amps.) i mentioned it dose not like to start it cooler weather, so you can understand what i actually mean by cooler ill explain. i live in south Texas and it rarely drops below 32 degrees here. i am having these problems right now and its currently 68 degrees. so not that cold. i think thats about it. any ideas??

[carriedi]

I need very basic information, because I'm a little slow, to look for a problem. When you say it has a hard time starting and you talk about having the wrong battery, you are not having a cranking or an engine turning over problem right? When you go to start the car it cranks over normally every time you turn the key to the start position. So the battery is doing it's job and the engine is cranking normally but it won't start up. So then we are looking at why it won't fire up and run, right?

OK, if that is the case, you want to look at the fuel pump to see if it is coming on? Power to the fuel pump in the tank is through a black and yellow wire. The wire comes from the PGM FI relay. The relay you said was replaced before. (it is a very common problem with this era Honda). You should use a volt meter and see if, when you are cranking the engine over, you have battery voltage going to the pump. If you do not, you may have to replace this relay again. If you do have power you will need to check at the fuel pump that you have a good signal at the power and ground at the fuel tank connector. That should tell you if you have a problem with the fuel pump or the wiring circuit.

As for the dying I wouldn't think it would be related just offhand. I would be looking at the IAC, idle control valve, for the stalling at idle. If it was a fuel problem I would think that would show up more when you need more fuel (driving) not when you hardly need any (idling).

As far as the battery goes, a car battery is made to start (use a great amount of amps) the recharge and use very little to keep the car running. It should always be pretty well charged up. Deep cycle batteries are made to give out a lower amount of amps for a longer period of time and are made to be run almost all the way down and then be charged back up over time. An automobile battery should have much more cold cranking amps and a deep cycle battery should have much more reserve capacity. A deep cycle battery will work in a car battery scenario for a while but it will usually not be able to keep up with the large starter draw after a time. But it will keep your headlights going a lot longer.

[roland]

Replaced timing belt on my 2000 Honda CRv. Followed instructions and triple checked so that cams and crank were at tdc. Started car and appears to run fine. Except when engine reaches normal operating temp idle drops and engine dies .now am getting fuel trim code telling me running rich. What might be the problem? While changing belt I also changed water pump. I also did an idle relearn. Anyone know what may be wrong?

[carriedi]

when you did your timing belt, did you turn the crank around by hand one full cycle and see if all your timing marks were still all lined up? this way you take all the tensions on the timing components out and can see when the crank that the cams are still lined up.

if it was running fine before and the only thing that has changed is the timing belt work, you might be one tooth off on a cam.

[roland]

If I'm one tooth off, would the car still start? What you mentioned did cross my mind. I thought I had checked that but I may not have looked close enough. I'll take off the valve cover and put the crank at tdc and take a look at the cam positions. At least the camshaft have a tdc locating hole that matches up with the cap so it should be relatively easy to check. Thanks for the reply. The car did run fine before, and I didn't do anything more than what was in my post.

[carriedi]

yes, the car can start and run with the cam timing off. Especially when it's cold, when the engine gets more fuel normally. After the engine comes up to normal temp and the computer takes control of the fuel and timing it will notice that the engine is not running correctly and try to compensate. So if the engine thinks it is running rich it will cut back fuel at the injectors. If you car is running rich from the timing and not a fuel condition, then cutting fuel through the injectors will not let enough fuel to the cylinder on the get go.

it's just something you should verify.