removing Fuel tank 03 Chrys T&C

[jacob.burcham.5]

i have a 95 dodge neon highline i was driving last night and it started sqealing n then shut off today i started going thru small things it culd be i check my spark plugs and cleaned them i put oil in it because it was a little bit low i checked all my fuses but it still wnt run it just cranks n then backfires what culd be my problem

[ProTech]

Well, you could have broken a timing belt, or possibly something like the fuel pump went out. Since you say it is backfiring, that tells me you should be getting fuel so it's probably a timing issue. Unless you are experienced with internal engine work, you might want to take it to a shop.

[david1x]

5/1/2015 - The past couple days, our 2007 Chrysler Town and Country van, 3.3 V6, shakes when being started the first time each day and the engine light is on. We just had a rebuilt transmission from Chrysler installed four months ago. Can anyone help, please?

[carriedi]

you should have your van scanned to see what the check engine light is on for. It could be an ignition miss on cold startup

[stevep]

2003 Town and Country 3.8 L... I need to know if there is a serpentine belt that will bypass the a c comp. I need this vehilcle and cant afford the locals repair rates.

Any help?

[jmchesnut]

I am attempting to help a buddy with this car that will not start. It is the 4cyl engine. He thought it needed a starter, but he couldn't get it off, and thats how I got involved. This car will NOT CRANK when you turn the key, but the dash lights up and appears to be "ON" like normal, accessories seem to work. He has checked all the fuses ( I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY DONE THIS) and says they are all good. I thought it may be the neutral safety switch, but I believe that is actually inside the transmission in this application, so I have not tested it yet. Here's the catch......I wanted to get it to my garage and really thought if I turned the key to the "run" position, and applied power to the starter solenoid, that it would most likely run and I could simply drive it 25 miles to my place. It cranked over just fine, but will no start. I've also noted I hear no fuel pump (or relay) and I am making an assumption that there is no injector pulse or spark, but that I am NOT CERTAIN of.....just betting.....

There are 5(?) identical part number relay's and they were swapped over one spot (thinking maybe a bad starter relay) and no change noted. Relays back to their original location.

Does anybody recognize any of these issues as a familiar problem? my friend can't really afford a dealer repair, and I'd like to help him out. But, whatever it is, I need to get it figured out!!!

[carriedi]

you should contact your local NAPA parts store and see about a AC compressor by-pass kit.

the part number is 6603483. the list price is $75.18 but you should be able to get it a little cheaper than that.

[carriedi]

here's the thing, your key doesn't turn the starter anymore. the key in the start position sends a signal to the PCM and the pcm tell the starter to turn the engine over. So you need yo look at the pcm.

check the yellow wire from the ignition switch. it goes to power up the starter relay and also to the pcm. the starter relay is grounded by the pcm to turn on the starter solenoid.

the power to the ignition switch is from a red wire from the power distribution box on the left front fender. Fuse #8 a 20A fuse.

[stevep]

Ok, I ve got the Staps off, the lines loose and its just sitting there...PLastic tank. I have a leak on the TOP side of the tank. Is there any way to access it from the trunk from above? Failing that... How the Heck do you get it to Drop out?

Thanks in Advance

[carriedi]

the straps are the means that is used to keep the tank up in the car. If the straps are unbolted and the tank is still stuck it's probably the insulation or cushion between the tank and the body of the car. They have strips of material that keeps the tank from rubbing directly to the body. It may be stuck to the body. try prying on one corner gently... How much gas is in the tank? Do you have something to catch the tank when it comes loose? Because when it does come loose it's going to drop from where ever you have it. Once it does come loose, lower the tank down a little so you can remove the lines, filler hose and electrical connection. then lower it all the way out.

after you re-install the tank you should use a good scanner and do an evap test to see if the system is sealed and everything is working correctly

[Guest]

stevep wrote:
> Ok, I ve got the Staps off, the lines loose and its just sitting
> there...PLastic tank. I have a leak on the TOP side of the tank. Is there
> any way to access it from the trunk from above? Failing that... How the
> Heck do you get it to Drop out?
>
> Thanks in Advance