2003 toyota matrix won't start
2003 toyota matrix won't start
I have an '03 Toyota matrix xrs that starts fine. After a trip, sometimes it won't start. It cranks but it seems like it's not getting any gas. Took it to a mechanic but he couldn't duplicate the problem, it's intermittent. Recently replaced thermostat, coolant, & battery. Suggestions?
Re: 2003 toyota matrix won't start
you need to check the car out when it is acting up. Unless the vehicle stores a code, the only way to find the problem is to have it happen and test to see what the car is missing at the time. Fuel, spark, injector pulse... Some times an evap valve stuck open can cause a no start or long crank. But don't replace parts by just guessing. It gets expensive and you will probably replace a lot of parts you won't need. Wish I could be more help but if the car runs normally everything will probably show up as normal.
Re: 2003 toyota matrix won't start
I was thinking of buying an OBD2 car scanner to keep with me and hook it up as soon as the problem occurred. I was just wondering if someone had a recommendation as to which one is best for the price and features.
Re: 2003 toyota matrix won't start
there are many scanners out there and they vary greatly as do the prices. Here is a site that can give you some information on various scanners
http://www.bestscantool.net/
http://www.bestscantool.net/
fuel evaporative system
what will occur if I do not replace the "charcoal canister" in the fuel evaporative system other than the
malfunction indicator light staying ON ?
malfunction indicator light staying ON ?
Re: fuel evaporative system
first of all, why do you think you need to replace the charcoal canister? You may have codes that say it's not working correctly but that may be from other things besides the canister. Vent valve, purge valve, evap leak, fuel tank pressure sensor, etc.
If you do actually need the canister replaced and you don't replace it, what would happen? Well, some cars will run differently with the check engine light on. Some turn off the cruise control. Some turn off the AC. If the fuel tank vent valve is stuck it could affect when you fill up gas. (keep clicking the pump off) If the purge valve is stuck open you could flood the engine when you fill gas. (won't start without wide open throttle to clear flood) Most vehicles will let you run normally if it's just an evap code that isn't a vacuum leak that affects idle. How is it running now? It shouldn't change much but you won't know if something else goes wrong because the check engine light is already on. Unless the light starts flashing.
If you do actually need the canister replaced and you don't replace it, what would happen? Well, some cars will run differently with the check engine light on. Some turn off the cruise control. Some turn off the AC. If the fuel tank vent valve is stuck it could affect when you fill up gas. (keep clicking the pump off) If the purge valve is stuck open you could flood the engine when you fill gas. (won't start without wide open throttle to clear flood) Most vehicles will let you run normally if it's just an evap code that isn't a vacuum leak that affects idle. How is it running now? It shouldn't change much but you won't know if something else goes wrong because the check engine light is already on. Unless the light starts flashing.
Bizarre '03 Matrix XRS m/t - starts/stalls
So I stopped at the gas station to use the restroom. Was inside for maybe 2-3 min. When i came out and tried to start the car, it starts then runs VERY rough! then it stalls after 20 sec. It feels like the timing is off or like its running on 1 cylinder. I had the car towed home. Now it cranks and stalls immediately! Only CEL code is misfire in cylinder 3, which is from the previous night when i hit "LIFT" the previous night(check engine light flashed while i was in lift only). Car was running fine when i pulled up to the gas station.
History:
Car has a new head gasket, timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, lift solenoid gasket, lift bolts, injector seals, genuine toyota coil packs, fuel pump, all with less than 3000 miles on them. I checked the spark plugs and compression, all normal. Same with fuses and fuel pump relays. However, the fuel pump relay is not getting energized for some reason. But even after removing and using a jumper on terminals 3/4, forcing the fuel pump on, the car is no different. Also, the reason it has new coils, is because about 500 miles ago... the car had similar issue and dealer recommended to replace them and the injector seals/intake manifold gasket, which fixed the problem. Cost me $1100 for something i could have done myself.
SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP!!!
Update:
I tried to swap the MAF and spray starting fluid into the throttle body, but that did nothing. I did notice the intake manifold had what appeared to be a fairly large puddle of oil inside...?
History:
Car has a new head gasket, timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, lift solenoid gasket, lift bolts, injector seals, genuine toyota coil packs, fuel pump, all with less than 3000 miles on them. I checked the spark plugs and compression, all normal. Same with fuses and fuel pump relays. However, the fuel pump relay is not getting energized for some reason. But even after removing and using a jumper on terminals 3/4, forcing the fuel pump on, the car is no different. Also, the reason it has new coils, is because about 500 miles ago... the car had similar issue and dealer recommended to replace them and the injector seals/intake manifold gasket, which fixed the problem. Cost me $1100 for something i could have done myself.
SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP!!!
Update:
I tried to swap the MAF and spray starting fluid into the throttle body, but that did nothing. I did notice the intake manifold had what appeared to be a fairly large puddle of oil inside...?
Re: Bizarre '03 Matrix XRS m/t - starts/stalls
How long ago was your work done? is there any warranty that might cover your problems?
What is "LIFT"? You said you hit "LIFT". the code you got was P0300? misfire cylinder #3?
How did you see the "puddle of oil" in the intake? Are you sure it's oil? Is it possible it is gas that has mixed with some oil in the intake? see if you can get something to pick up some of that oil and see if it smells like gas. If it smells like gas your engine could be flooded. If it is flooded adding fuel won't help anything. Turn the key to crank the engine with the gas pedal pushed all the way down should turn off the fuel to the engine and see if you can clear the gas in the motor. It may take a couple of tries to see if that makes any difference.
You said you checked compression, what did you get?
Unplug one of the injectors. With the key in the run position use a test light and check for battery power in the two connector terminals in the harness connector. Once you see which side has power (should be the black/white wire that is on all the injectors) you need to check the other terminal for ground while the engine is cranking. the computer grounds the injectors to shoot fuel. See if you have the power and switching ground at the injector to make the car run.
Do you know how to check for spark? You need to check for spark, fuel pressure, compression and injector pulse for an engine to run. Don't sweat the other stuff like MAF and stuff until you can see all the basics working right first. Once you know you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, compression and spark then we can go from there.
A scanner would be great to scan for codes and if it has graphing abilities then you can look at the crank sensor and other thing from there.
let me know what you find out
What is "LIFT"? You said you hit "LIFT". the code you got was P0300? misfire cylinder #3?
How did you see the "puddle of oil" in the intake? Are you sure it's oil? Is it possible it is gas that has mixed with some oil in the intake? see if you can get something to pick up some of that oil and see if it smells like gas. If it smells like gas your engine could be flooded. If it is flooded adding fuel won't help anything. Turn the key to crank the engine with the gas pedal pushed all the way down should turn off the fuel to the engine and see if you can clear the gas in the motor. It may take a couple of tries to see if that makes any difference.
You said you checked compression, what did you get?
Unplug one of the injectors. With the key in the run position use a test light and check for battery power in the two connector terminals in the harness connector. Once you see which side has power (should be the black/white wire that is on all the injectors) you need to check the other terminal for ground while the engine is cranking. the computer grounds the injectors to shoot fuel. See if you have the power and switching ground at the injector to make the car run.
Do you know how to check for spark? You need to check for spark, fuel pressure, compression and injector pulse for an engine to run. Don't sweat the other stuff like MAF and stuff until you can see all the basics working right first. Once you know you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, compression and spark then we can go from there.
A scanner would be great to scan for codes and if it has graphing abilities then you can look at the crank sensor and other thing from there.
let me know what you find out
neutral safety switch shaft
Hi, I have a 2011 Toyota 4 runner 4 wheel drive limited. I tried to change the neutral safety switch and it came off in pieces, what was left a metal ring I could not get off the shaft, I beat it up pretty bad, I just chewed it up couldn't get it off, bring it to Toyota they said I need a new transmission, I beat up the shaft to much , I said cant you just replace the shaft, they said no... transmission still works fine for 200,000. Can you help me is this true. thank you. tony
Re: neutral safety switch shaft
take your track to a transmission shop and get a second opinion.
The dealer is probably worried about doing a repair that they would have to warranty not knowing if there is damage inside the trans from the work you have done on it.
The dealer is probably worried about doing a repair that they would have to warranty not knowing if there is damage inside the trans from the work you have done on it.
Toyota radiator losing water but reservoir stays full
My 2006 Toyota Voxy radiator fluid goes down each time I drive it but the reservoir remains full. I have to add water daily. I have replaced the radiator cap, the water pump, the cooling fan sensor and finally the radiator itself. Same problem!
Re: Toyota radiator losing water but reservoir stays full
you should have your cooling system pressure tested for a leak. the cooling system is a closed system. when the coolant gets hot it expands into the reservoir and when it cools it contracts back into the radiator. If you have a leak anywhere in the system the pressure will vent out the leak and when it contracts it will contract at the leak. It won't pull from the reservoir. It could be as simple as a loose hose clamp or could be as serious as a blown head gasket.
See if you can have the cooling system pressure tested and find out if there is a leak and where the leak is at.
See if you can have the cooling system pressure tested and find out if there is a leak and where the leak is at.
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