We have a 2002
Oldsmobile Alero. Recently changed the intake gaskets lower and upper.
But, when put back together it idles high. What did i do or didn't do? Ran fine before
hand.? Idles fast when air breather on, but when taken off idles slow. I was told to put all
together and start up, and should reset the computer..any ideas?
You might have a vacuum leak. First, try disconnecting
the battery for a few minutes to see if that helped.
Was this information helpful?
Learn how to help keep us free.
I just bought a 2000
Chevy Impala. It used to be a police car. Sometimes when I get in the
car and start it for the first time the temp gauge is already at almost half way. Then
sometimes it just has a mind of it's own. Sometimes it reads hot and then goes to cool if I
turn the car off and start it back up right away. I have taken it to a shop. They said the
instrument cluster is broken. Also all the fluids are fine and I see no smoke or water. I hear
no bubbling or nothing of the sort. I do smell a little coolant when I get out of the car but no
bad. Have any of you ever had this problem? And if you have do you have any advice?
Thank You.
<< Previous Page of Comments and Pictures
If the gauge is at half way on the first start, then yes,
either the instrument cluster is bad or the temperature
sensor. Smelling ANY coolant is bad. Get that checked.
My 95 3.4L
Monte Carlo with the cold engine/high rev - stall problem has a consistent
QDM1 fault, and is showing 0 VDC input from the throttle position sensor.  I checked the
wiring, TPS is getting 5 VDC as it should from the PCM, and the wiring reads good for
continuity and no short to ground from the TPS connector to the PCM (the sensor ground
is good too.) The TPS itself was replaced recently with no change to the discrepancy.  
Would this be a sure-fire sign that my PCM is broke or could there be another issue at
If the sensor is new and you are sure the wiring checks
good between it and the PCM, then yes the computer is
faulty. Although, the 3.4L DOHC motor has a common
problem for high cold idle- the lower intake manifold
gaskets leak vacuum. This would not give you a Quad
driver fault though.
I have a 2001
Chevrolet Impala my temp gage goes to the half way mark then goes
a little over then back down also my idle goes high i have to turn the car off and on
about 4 times for it to go away if I'm driving and the idle goes high i change gears
from drive it goes down a little but if its on park it goes really high also when i come
to a stop and then drive my car boggles it only does it on first gear it feels like when
you are driving a stick shift car and u let go of the clutch to soon and it boggles
thats how my car drives i really need some info on whats going on with my car.
I have a 92 Nissan Maxima and I was driving it on the highway today when I heard a
clicking sound.  All of a sudden I could not accelerate and the care lost power... Just shut
down.  I found that there is a small hole in the top of the radiator and the car was
overheating.  It will drive however it seems like its misfiring below about 3-4000 RPMs.  I
did check the oil and there are no bubbles in it, which makes me think that I did not blow a
head gasket cause there is no antifreeze in the oil.  Any idea as to WHAT is wrong with my
I have a 2003
Grand Am 3.4 GT, sometime the car will start and when it does it runs great
and if I shut it off it will start again. It seems if i let sit all night it wont start, go out few hours
later it will start. I replaced the PCM,BCM (used from same car). The crank sensor, ignition
switch, key switch. Checked the TPS (good). Bypassed the Passlock wit a resistor (no light
on)  I would consider my self a good mechanic but this one has me stumped. When it
doesn't start it is firing and will run on starting fluid. I can hear the fuel pump kick in and
pressure is good. What do you think this erratic problem could be?
Check coolant level. May be low caused buy a leaking
intake manifold gaskets. Check ignition coils and spark
plugs causing your engine hesitation.
I have a 2001
Oldsmobile Alero and sometimes after the car has been driven I shut off the
car and when I restart it the temperature gauge won't go up even though i know the engine
isn't cold and the cars RPM will go high on idle and if I try to drive it that way the car will
stall or idle rough on stops. But once the temperature gauge goes to normal it will run fine.
I think it's the engine coolant sensor but I'm not sure. What do you think?
I replaced head gaskets and intake gaskets on my 2000 Pontiac 3.4L
Everything is back together. Engine runs fine except for knocking, rattling  from the
rockers.I had the heads milled while they were off. If I switched rockers and push rods
when reassembling could that cause the noise?
If it runs on starter fluid, then you have a fuel pressure
problem. You say the pressure is good- is that when it is
not starting? What is the pressure?
It could be a coolant temperature sensor problem, but I
think a check for any trouble codes would be a good
place to start. After that, you will have a better idea of
where a problem area might be.
For the love of all holy people.... If you're going to attempt to try and repair your own
vehicle...BUY A SCAN TOOL!!! Quit throwing parts at it. You're just throwing money
away... With the money you waste just doing the poke-n-hope you could spend it on a half
way decent scan tool and actually SAVE money.
Also, buy a few books, or do some research on the net. Buy a repair manual for the
vehicle you are going to repair, and do 'a lot' of research on the diagnostics system for
your car (for this Buick thread) OBD2. So, you can educate yourselves...and to realize
that there is a lot more to, the ACTUAL code and its vital description... So, when you read
a code for EVAP and the description reads, EVAP incorrect purge flow.... You don't just
say, ok, well, there's an EVAP/purge solenoid..... THAT must be it. Then buy the senor,
replace it and.... SURPRISE! The code came back! But... If you educated yourself you'd
say, ok, well...it could be a few things...like a leak somewhere along the EVAP plumbing
(which is quite difficult without a smoke machine.( And they are expensive), a leaky seal on
the gas cap, a few other things, down to the actual solenoid (where a scan tool like a
TechII can test)  Those expensive tools us mechanics have are VERY useful at diagnosing
and speed up repair tunes. .. And still people wonder why it costs so much too have a
mechanic repair their vehicle.
To the people that try or attempt to repair their own vehicle and begun to realize that they
are getting in over their heads.... PLEASE, PLEEEEEEASE! ... Just stop what you are
doing! Immediately begin to put everything back together (I say, immediately because the
longer you are away from what you were taking apart, the more you'll forget = more extra
parts you hand the mechanic when u tell them about the problem the vehicle WAS having
before bringing the vehicle in on a roll-back expecting us to just fix the original problem,
and then complain about these other unneeded repairs that YOU caused. That is pretty
high on the list of what aggravates the hell out of a mechanic.
I understand, everyone has to start somewhere....we (mechanics) all did, and (I...at least)
would be (am) more understanding IF you would be honest, tell us you tried... You did this
and that while working on it, and if I have time, I have the person show me what they did,
and I tell them what the correct actions should of been, ECT. Maybe even tell them one of
my many F-ups back when I was learning. But, if you bring it in, and just tell me, ehh, I funk
what I did wrong, but, this is whats wrong, and tell ME how to fix it, or you make up a story
about how your dad, friend, ECT did it and he didn't tell you anything...it  gets aggravating
fast, and if you can't rationalize why it might cost you more now... For what YOU DID, or
give us attitude telling us what to fix... And while I'm at it (kind of goes with the code
reading topic). If you have your car scanned by a A-Zone, or other franchise parts store,
or a friend/ family member who just got. A scanner and now believes he/ she is an, ASC
L1 certified Advanced Engine Performance Specialist because they can pull codes from
the PCM... PLEASE, don't come into the shop all high n mighty like you KNOW for a FACT
what's wrong with your vehicle, and tell me (or any other mechanic), so-n-so scanned my
car, and this~is what's wrong, and  this is what's wrong with it. So, only repair THAT part.
Because, if you don't get turned away, or the mechanic is nice enough to try and give you
a quick education on how powertrain operating/diagnostic systems work, a bitter mechanic
may just go ahead a replace just the sensor / solenoid / ETC. you told them roll change,
and charge you for it... And let you leave with a lighter wallet, and an un repaired vehicle.
I am currently putting together a 2000 Chevy impala 3.4 and i have the whole thing
finished except for one last clip. My problem is that i cannot find the receiving end. It
seems like it goes somewhere around the rear set of spark plugs other that I cant provide
any useful info. If u have questions ill answer on the website
If you could provide a picture of the clip your are
referring to we can help you out. Send an e-mail with
attached picture to feedback @ greatautohelp .com
2001 Grand Am v6. Sometimes starts rough and even dies, once I get it running without
chugging (usually hold gas half way down then clears up) the car will run like brand new.
Changed map sensor. When key car on fuel pressure sometimes only hits 15, then key
again jumps to 30. While running its around 40. Whats normal pressure when key on and
when started?
That's a tell tale sign of a bad fuel pump. You should
have about 45psi with the key on or engine running. 15
is way too low to start the car which is why is chugs and
stalls. Replace the fuel pump and filter and you'll be
good to go.
I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu and after i have driven it approx. 45 minutes it dies out on me.
 Sometimes when i let it sit 15 to 20 minutes it starts again but not always.  In addition,
when the gas goes below half it dies out especially if i am going up a steep hill.
Have a 2004 Grand Am SE.  I've done two passlock resets in the past two years about a
year apart.  Yesterday it would not start and no lights, chimes, etc.  Battery replaced.  
Wouldn't crank.  Replaced ignition lock cylinder.  Wouldn't crank.  Bypassed passlock with
resistor.  Won't crank.  Everything works fine i.e., radio, power windows, power locks,
chimes, hear the fuel pump cycle when key is in on position, etc.   WILL NOT CRANK!!  I'm
down to BCM as potential problem.  Any other suggestions?  Has been a great car up until
Really appreciate this website, great Job...
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4 litre. While driving at a constant speed under 80kms
the engine surges, rpm's wiggle a couple hundred and will continue while accelerating until
speed is over 80kms. Also does it while going up hill....any thoughts ?? Thanks.
Have your fuel level sensor checked to make sure it is
accurate. Then have the fuel pressure checked, best to
check after is stalls to confirm if the fuel pump is bad.
I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu with a 3.1 Litre (2100) Engine.  The car runs great and starts
fine, unless it is below 50 degrees outside.  The engine turns over fine, it just won't start.  
If the temperature is above 50 degrees, it starts fine every time.  This is frustrating.
Sounds like maybe an engine misfire- a bad plug wire?
Could also be a transmission problem. The TCC or
overdrive could be going off and on.
I have a 2001 pontiac grand prix runs perfectly but the has sensor has stayed on full for
the past 2 days I've had the car and I know I've used enough fuel for it to move a little bit.  
Any tips?   When the car is off and the radio is going the fuel pin on the dash bobs back
and forth..
You need a fuel level sensor in the gas tank.
Colder weather can affect lots of things, but mainly fuel
pressure. I'd recommend a fuel pressure check when
cold or when it's acting up. If you have a fuel pump that is
going out, it will definitely act up more when the weather
is colder. The spec for fuel pressure is about 50psi with
the key on. It should hold and not drop off. You may also
want to check the fuel pressure regulator for leaking
internally as well.
2000 Alero cranks but wont start. Has spark and fuel to the fuel rail. i sprayed carb
cleaner in the intake and it tries to fire. Any suggestions would be great.
Fuel to the fuel rail really doesn't mean you're getting
enough fuel or enough fuel pressure. You need to do a
pressure check to make sure it's within specifications. If it
tries to fire with carb spray, you are either not getting
fuel, or you could possibly have a security problem with
the car that is killing the fuel signal. I would bet you have
a fuel pump that has gone bad, but be sure to check first.
1999 Olds Alero. Where is the crank position sensor located?
On the 3400 engine, the crank position sensor is located on the back lower side of
the engine between the transmission and engine. The wires come up then connect
to the drivers side of the ignition control module.
I have a 94 Buick regal it wont turn on. I replaced the power packs because the car
didn't spark and now it does. We also got the starter checked its good but the car
won't start. When we turn the car over it doesn't stay on even if I press the gas. I
don't know what to do. We are going to check the fuel pump and fuel line next.
What do you think I should do..? Help please. I'm going crazy!!
Yes, check fuel pressure and injector pulse signal. Make
sure the security light is not on the dash also.
Could be a hundred things. Going to need more
information than that !
I have a 3.4 in a 2004 Aztek.  The vacuum hose on top of the fuel pressure regulator has
broken and for the life of me I cannot figure out where it is routed to on the intake.  Please
Just follow it to the black bracket on top of the plenum.
My CEL is on in my 2002 Hyundai Accent. When i took it to Aamco they said that a TCM
code popped up but read in error while driving it feels like it speed up by itself but the
rpms are dropping like trying to make it easier to go up in gears.
You have an internal transmission problem that needs to
get looked at by a mechanic.
Need a PICTURE location of 2002 3.4L Chevy Impala crankshaft position sensor's I hear
there is 2.
My 1994 3.4L Grand Prix runs smoothly until it warms up and then starts skipping at idle.
You have an engine misfire. Either a bad spark plug,
plug wire, ignition coil or fuel injector.
I have used-car Chevy Malibu 2002 V6 3.1.  The engine is easy to hot.  The temp gauge
is likely to get a half of full scale. ECT sensor is not available since buy the car. Cooling
fan is only have one speed only. SES is ON.  Already try resetting SES by disconnect
Battery in 2 hours. Please suggest.
Well, you really need to see what code is stored in the
computer that set the SES light on. If you've got a ECT
problem, that would most likely have set the trouble
code. You could have a thermostat problem as well, or
even a faulty computer. The best place to start is getting
the trouble codes retrieved so at least a diagnostic
starting point can be found.
I have a 2002 Chevy Monte Carlo my check engine light is on my codes read P0401
P0441 P0440 P0140 but not at the same time. I take it to different places to put it on the
machines its different code every time my check engine light goes on and off last year
when it did that I took the emissions and passed 20 mins after the light came back on I
You need to check the EGR passages for carbon
blockage and the
EVAP emissions system for a failure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4 cranks but wont start. Fuel pressure is 50 psi and has spark.
It's not getting injector pulse. Checked all fuses, connectors, and power to injectors, all
check good. I checked for codes but none exist at this time. I am suspecting a problem
with the security system because of no injector pulse. How can I reset the security system
to see if it will fix my problem. My scanner will not access that system.
i have the buick century limited 2001 and all light inside the car are off..i dont can see the
radio or hear music..you can help me..i go to the autosone...and they said,,,,,,,while the
EGR valve position the ECM detected the closed position sensor voltage higher than the
learned voltage..
probable cause.
aa1- failed EGR valve
aa2- carbon blockege of the pintle..please you can help me.
If you have a GM 3.1/3.4 engine, and it blows the head gasket. If you replace the head
gaskets go and put heli-ciol thread repair inserts in the rocker arm bosses. Don't wait after
you install the heads. They have a bad problem pulling the threads out.
You can try to do a relearn. Just search our site, there
are several pages about that.
Engine codes have nothing to do with the interior lights.
Check all fuses. May be a dimmer switch gone bad.
I have a 1997 Ford Escort the Rpm hand goes up and down on its own when you stop at
an stop sign.
Check for a vacuum leak. Check and clean the idle air
control valve and throttle.
Next Page Comments >>
Share Your Automotive
Knowledge With Our Visitors.
More Auto Repair Answers, Questions And Help
             World Of Wheels                     Electrical Testing                    Belt Diagrams              Mustang Engine Overhaul              All about Tires
World of wheels car show pictures        Vehicle electrical testing        Serpentine belt diagrams        Ford Mustang 5.0 engine overhaul high performance        Tire number descriptions

© Copyright 2006 . JRKAZ,Inc.
Contact Us
Terms And Privacy Policy

3.4L Sensor Locations- Comment Page 2
Ad Yours Below