Chevy Tahoe Oil Level- Door Locks- Problems
1996 Chevy Tahoe Vortec 7400. Repairs for this problem- electrical, and regular maintenance. Ok, how do i fix my power door locks? I have a keyless entry system, but i could always push the locks to unlock all the doors now i can't. I have to manually push them to open or use my remote to open all the doors and lock them. It is a fuse i need to make them work again? Please help...=)
Probably not a fuse since the door locks do work with the remote. That is, unless this is a non-factory remote. Best to check all fuses anyway. There could be a lot of causes for this problem of locks not working with the door switches.
1. Both switches are bad.
2. A relay or module problem.
3. Broken wires in the door passthrough harness inside that rubber boot.
4. Wiring problem in the dash or under the carpet, etc.
You would need a schematic, test light and volt meter to properly test the circuits. Just guessing and replacing parts will get expensive.
I RECENTLY HAD MY 2007 CHEVY TAHOE OIL CHANGED AT THE DEALER. UPON CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL ABOUT TWO WEEKS LATER BEFORE A TRIP I NOTICED THE LEVEL TO BE ABOUT AN INCH TO INCH AN A HALF ABOVE THE HIGHEST CIRCLE ON THE DIP STICK. THERE IS NO MARKINGS ON THE STICK EXCEPT FOR TO HOLES. THIS WAS A COLD ENGINE WHEN I CHECKED. IS THIS LEVEL OKAY. THANK YOU.
The engine oil level is quite a bit overfull. I would estimate 1-2 quarts over. Engine oil level is very important to the operation of any engine and should be checked between oil changes. I would suggest getting the oil level adjusted as soon as possible.
We are having issues with our 2004 Tahoe, the door locks will lock and unlock intermittently while driving and the "Rear door ajar" warning message will come on. The problem is worse when driving over bumpy roads. We took the interior skin off the door and traced the wires. There does not appear to be anything loose or disconnected. We thought it was a faulty actuator. We took it out but were unable to replace it immediately because we had the wrong side. We put the locking mechanism back in but left the actuator out and drove it-it still locked and unlocked/binged a few times so now we are starting to believe that it is not the actuator at all. What would you suggest?
Since the 'rear gate ajar' message keeps showing up, and not for any other door, the problem is definitely in the back. It is probably the lock mechanism itself, and not the actuator. The actuator just does the locking and unlocking of the lift gate. There is wiring that goes to the lock assembly that tells if the gate is open, ajar, or closed, and that switch inside it is most likely the cause of your problem. You'd have to purchase a complete rear lock assembly, which will probably include a new actuator as well.