1994 S-10 cranks but won't start

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Kyle

1994 S-10 cranks but won't start

Unread post by Kyle » Sat Jan 05, 2013 2:05 pm

I have an s10 that turns over but won't start. Replaced plugs, wires and crank sensor. Also checked the fuel filter and gas was coming out of the discharge side. Still does not want to crank. Please help. Thank you in advance.

 

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ProTech
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Re: 1994 S-10 cranks but won't start

Unread post by ProTech » Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:37 pm

I'd recommend a couple other checks before you replace any parts.

First, even though you say you replaced the plugs and wires, I would still highly recommend checking to make sure you have spark when you are cranking the truck over. If not, this could be a bad coil or ignition module.

Secondly, and even though you say fuel is coming out of the line, I would also highly recommend doing an actual fuel pressure check. Just seeing fuel spill out doesn't tell you if the pump is actually putting out enough pressure and/or volume. If it's low, you'd obviously need to replace the fuel pump.
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In the automotive industry for 20+

RandyMeade
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Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:41 pm

bad alternater?

Unread post by RandyMeade » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:58 pm

2003 S10 stalled at light. Lost power, lights everything like the altanater went bad. Jump started running fine. Dissconnected POS and NEG of battery still ran. new battery and grounding straps. Could it still be the alternater.

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carriedi
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Location: Oregon

Re: bad alternater?

Unread post by carriedi » Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:05 pm

from what you described it sounds more like a bad battery connection. If your alternator stops charging your car will still run off the battery. Then as the battery runs down, the dash warning lights will start to come on because of the power imbalance in the warning lights circuits. Then as the battery keeps running down the computer circuits will not have enough voltage to react properly and the engine starts running poorly, until it starts cutting out and then finally dies. Even with the engine stalled, the battery would still have enough voltage to keep the lights on dimly.

If everything shut down at once and no lights at all, it sounds more like a battery cable connection. If you replaced the battery you probably took care of the connection problem. (You should make sure the cable has a good clean connection between the bolt and the cable)

You may have an alternator problem now, If you disconnect the battery while the engine is running the regulator can't see a voltage source and will over charge the system. Maybe damaging the regulator or the alternator. It might be fine. You'll have to wait and see.
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm

If it's charging between 13.5 and 14.4 the voltage is okay. Diode ripple is a little tougher to see. measuring AC voltage could let you see how the diodes are working. 1500 rpm, lights, blower fan on high, Ac voltage should show less than .09V AC (90mV AC) If it reads higher than that a diode is probably weak of bad. A conductive battery tester would give you an accurate reading on the battery and the charging system.
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