2007 Sebring brake lights not working. High mount works, low

[MaW]

2002 Jeep Liberty.... Having issues getting the rotors off .... Well, actually, the rotors will slide off easily but after pulling the calipers and pads, there is a mounting bracket that holds the caliper on to the whole assembly.... Two bolts on backside that hold it on but used all my force to try getting them to break loose.... Do I need to just soak them and wait or is there another way to get the rotors off without removing this bracket? I've done this before on other vehicles and have never seen anything like this I guess....Maybe it's just Jeeps... Usually the whole assembly just comes off with the caliper and there are the rotors to just pull or knock off and walah....Thankyou for any help....

[ProTech]

Try soaking the bolts with a good penetrating oil and letting it sit for a day. Otherwise you can use a torch, but just make sure it's very low heat or you can melt the surrounding area and brake lines. The bracket does have to come off to remove the rotor, and pretty much every car these days uses this style.

[towtruckguy]

I replaced the brake light switch assembly and still have no power at the low mount lights. Checked for a wiring diagram but not seeing anything. Someone told me there is a BUS that suns these lights from the computer? Getting ready to take a 10 lb Hammer to it.... but it ain't mine so I can't. LOL any advice would be appreciated.

[carriedi]

yes, the totally integrated module (fuse box+) runs the brake light. (left side of the engine compartment) power goes from fuse #3 brake lights 10A to the brake light switch then it splits up after the switch. One wire goes to the high brake light, one goes to the brake light out warning light on the dash and one goes to the integrated module that supplies power to the brake light. Check out the dark green and white wire that goes from the brake light switch at the integrated module to see if power is coming from the brake light switch. then look at the white and orange wire that comes out of the module to see if power is going through the module and coming out to the brake lights.

[guest]

howdy, break problem 2006 cargo caravan . replaced master cylnder bled all breaks no air in lines.
van not running, 3pumps of pedal, comes to the top, firm, no by pass. start van with foot on break, it goes to the floor never to get very solid. test drive car will stop but has spongey pedal,about half as hard as normal. bad vac booster? no abs lights on

[carriedi]

you might have to use a scanner and check to see if there is a brake bleed procedure for the ab s accumulator.

bleed the brakes manually. hook up the scanner and go to the abs section. Under the miscellaneous section there should be a place to bleed the brakes for the HCU. After using the scanner to bleed the HCU do a manual bleed again. that should get you going again. (all other conditions being normal. why did you replace the master to begin with?)

[carriedi]

you might trying to disconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum booster and plugging off the hose and then start the engine and see what the brake pedal feels like. Does it still feel like a high and hard pedal or does it still go to the floor...

If the pedal is near the top and hard to push with the vacuum not connected then it could be a booster problem. Because the HBC is acting normally. If the pedal still goes to the floor then it is probably the HCU causing the pedal problem because the booster is acting normally with no vacuum