2006 CHRYSLER 300 5.7 OVERHEATED

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steve
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:13 am

2000 Town and Country Engine Noise

Unread post by steve » Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:57 am

I have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8 Liter engine. 2 days ago when cold starting a loud clattering noise comes from the engine, not transmission. After a few minutes after it warms up engine runs as smooth as ever. What could be going on??

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carriedi
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Re: 2000 Town and Country Engine Noise

Unread post by carriedi » Wed Nov 13, 2013 3:09 am

without know what kind of noise or where in the engine the noise came from I would guess timing component lost it's oil prime. But you should wait until it happens again and see what you have to do to duplicate the noise. Once you know when it might make the noise leave it at a shop over night or something so you can have it happen where a tech can hear the noise.

HAMMER
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Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:26 pm

2006 CHRYSLER 300 5.7 OVERHEATED

Unread post by HAMMER » Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:36 pm

I was traveling down the highway this afternoon when my Chrysler 300 started overheating. I instantly pulled the car over and shut the engine off and let it cool off for a few minutes. When I tried to start the engine it would not crank unless I held the accelerator to the floor when it finally started it had a loud clanging noise and would not idle. Could it have jumped time and could that have destroyed the engine. The car has 60,000 miles on it.

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carriedi
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Re: 2006 CHRYSLER 300 5.7 OVERHEATED

Unread post by carriedi » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:08 pm

60k miles isn't many miles for a timing chain problem to happen. (But anything is possible)

this may be terminology but an engine cranking is when you put the key into the start position and the starter cranks the engine. (cranking is the same thing as engine turning over) Normally, after cranking the engine over it will start up and run. Now some newer cars don't use the key to crank the engine over. (some don't even have a key) The body control module will start the motor. The start button or the key will just be a switch that tells the BCM to engage the starter to get the engine running.

so, when you say it wouldn't crank until you put the pedal to the floor do you mean that it didn't crank over or do you mean that it was cranking over but wouldn't start?

I would have a shop look at your motor for the noise you heard. Usually if a timing chain gets worn enough to be bad they jump time. The first thing you would notice is that there is a loss of power. The engine might run a little rougher. If it gets too far off it will stall the engine. It would be hard to restart just like you said happened to your car. But might restart if you can keep the RPM's high enough to keep the inertia of the motor to stay running. Probably won't idle though because RPM's too low. Doesn't usually overheat though. And doesn't usually make a clanging noise.

how did you come to notice that the engine was running hot? did anything else different happen while all this was going on? The more information you can give your tech the more accurately they can look for your problem. How fast were you going? what kind of load was on the engine? How hot do you think it got and for how long. how was your heater working?

Baldskinner
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Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:08 am

Re: 2006 CHRYSLER 300 5.7 OVERHEATED

Unread post by Baldskinner » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:00 pm

HAMMER wrote:I was traveling down the highway this afternoon when my Chrysler 300 started overheating. I instantly pulled the car over and shut the engine off and let it cool off for a few minutes. When I tried to start the engine it would not crank unless I held the accelerator to the floor when it finally started it had a loud clanging noise and would not idle. Could it have jumped time and could that have destroyed the engine. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
Once I over heated and it was a top 2"radiator hose leak the engine froze up and would not crank at all. Then after working 8 hours I fixed the hose leak and re-filled with water and she started up and I drove home. Never had any other problems think GOD.

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KeariDonald
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Truck won't crank need help

Unread post by KeariDonald » Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:04 am

I crank my truck it runs fine. I will go to a store come out and it won't crank. Come back a couple hours later and it will crank right up. Sometimes I will be going down the road and it will quit and won't start for a couple hours. I had it hooked up to a computer and it says it is missing on all eight cylinders (it has done this since I bought it. We have replaced everything but the crank shaft) and O2 Sensor was bad, which we replaced. What could be wrong with it. 96 Dodge ram 1500 2 drive with a 318

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carriedi
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Re: Truck won't crank need help

Unread post by carriedi » Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:27 am

ok, since you say it won't crank, does everything else still work? dash gauges, radio, headlights, everything except the engine? or does everything stop too? When it won't crank are you able to check the starter solenoid to see if you are getting power to the solenoid from the ignition switch?

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KeariDonald
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Re: Truck won't crank need help

Unread post by KeariDonald » Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:31 am

It acts like it just isn't gas. I sprayed starter fluid and Crunk one time but as soon as i stop sprain it goes dead. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on.

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carriedi
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Re: Truck won't crank need help

Unread post by carriedi » Sat Oct 11, 2014 4:10 pm

ok, that's a different problem. "no crank" means the starter is not cranking the motor over. What you have is engines cranks, no start. Since you have already figured out that it have the spark needed to run you have to find out what's up with the fuel side.

don't use too much starting fluid. it's bad for the engine. the fuel pump turns on (as you can hear by the noise the motor makes but are you getting enough fuel pressure. Fuel pressure on this engine should be 44 to 54 psi. lower fuel pressure may lead to a no start condition.

If fuel pressure is within spec you need to check for injector pulse. each fuel injector has two wires going to it. One is for power and the other is for the ground signal from the computer. while cranking the engine see if you have injector pulse. You can check for pulse by unplugging one of the injectors and running a light bulb or a test light between the two terminals in the injector harness. as the engine cranks over the light should blink on and off telling you if you have battery voltage completing the circuit.

have you scanned the computer to see if you have any codes like for the cam sensor

stevep
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:44 pm

Re: 2000 Town and Country Engine Noise

Unread post by stevep » Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:28 am

03 Town and country. Appears as though the AC clutch has come apart. Melted rubber and a loose ring. Making a hell of a noise. Can I repair this myself? Do I need some type of puller? I dont thing the clutch and pulley is one unit. Can I pull clutch and run the thing without AC until I can get it to AC mechanic? HELP... I wouldnt own it but its a Handicap version that i transport Mom with.

Thanks

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carriedi
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Re: 2000 Town and Country Engine Noise

Unread post by carriedi » Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:07 am

the ac clutch should be able to come off and leave the pulley and bearing on the compressor. As long as the bearing is still good, you can leave the pulley on with the clutch off. Many times the clutch will drag causing excessive heat and could damage the bearing. after removing the clutch see if the pulley bearing makes noise when you spin it. Or start up the engine after you have removed the clutch and see how it sounds.

I don't think you should need any special tools to remove the clutch. It should be held on by a bolt down the center. The clutch might be stuck on by rust and grime so you might have to work on getting it off.

you should check price and availability on buying just a clutch or buying a clutch, pulley and coil set. (if the compressor is fine)

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