1995 Corolla crank no start

[gale]

Had no high lights, changed bulb and now no lights. Next problem, engine oil smell which is making me sick. Cleaned around the engine but still when idling worst smell. What can I do?

[carriedi]

1980 is going a while back. First thing to check is voltage at the engine room fuse box for the two headlight fuses. they are powered up from the headlight relay in the same fuse box. Unplug the headlight bulbs and check for power at the wire harness connector. With the headlights in the low beam on you should have ground on the red and green wire. the red and yellow should be open and the last wire should be power from the fuse in the fuse box & relay. When you switch to high beams the red and yellow should be ground and the red and green open. (high beam won't have the red and green wire going to it) So, it looks like the headlight switch sends power to the relay, the relay powers up the two fuses then the fuses feed the headlights. the dimmer switch tells the circuit which one gets the ground connection. do you know how to check the circuits?

[Javier]

Can a I do this?

[carriedi]

If you are asking if you can do it, I would say "no".

the transmission computer and the engine computer are interconnected and programmed to work together. Unless you have the skills to either rewire and/or reprogram to make something work I think it will just go into a default more.

why would you want to change the trans like this? Is there some advantage you thing you will get? Will it be worth the money? (and headache)

[oldpops]

Got a 95 Corolla 1.6L / 4AFE that worked great one day and then crank/no start the next. Checked all fuses and relays OK. Didn't find any broken wires or disconnected hoses or connectors. Plenty of gas in the car. The car ran great one day and literally crank no start the next. So I checked and got spark on all 4 plugs. I sprayed starter fluid up the intake and the car didn't even try to catch. Checked compression and it was waaayyy to low on all 4 cylinders. Did some research and finally had a mobile mechanic come out and he said the timing was off.

Since I was going to open it up to check & correct the timing, I got a a new timing belt and water pump. Had another mobile mechanic come out to change the timing belt and water pump & he said the timing was definitely off. Got the car all back together and timed correctly (at least the mechanic said it was timed correctly) and we still have the crank/no start. The mobile mechanic said there was compression, but he didn't check it with a compression tester. Tech sprayed the starter fluid up the intake and it didn't even try to catch (just like before). Tech pulled a spark plug wire off and put a brand new spark plug on the end and put it near a ground. I cranked the engine and the tech told me that the spark was very weak?? Mobile mechanic said that the distributors on these Toyota models had this kind of problem. Did some research on the weak spark and main cause reported was a bad ignition coil inside the distributor. `Got a new coil just in case, and then removed & bench tested the existing coil--Got the same readings on he existing coil as on the new one. I am told this model doesn't have an external crank position sensor - it must be in the distributor. Going to recheck the timing and compression again but before I replace the distributor, can anyone here offer any help, advice, or suggestions. Wife and I are seniors and on a limited income so we can't take the to a shop. We need the car to get to the church, doctors, and grocery shopping. Thanks in advance!

[carriedi]

so, did you check your spark with an incandescent test light?

you need to remove your distributor cap. then using the test light, hooked up to a good ground, check for a good spark when you crank the engine over. you should have a blue/white spark that can jump at least a half inch. Unless you have a coil testing machine or a tool that will actually fire the coil, testing by measuring ohms or voltage drop through the coil, those tests don't work well. You have to check the coil to see if it will fire.

Did you try the new coil in the car?

there are two wires that connect to the coil. If the new coil doesn't fire when you crank the engine over or you have a weak spark you need to check the wires at the coil. Disconnect the two wires from the coil in the distributor. turn the key to the run position. One wire should be power (battery voltage) the other wire will should be nothing. It may be a ground but probably not. If you check them with the wires connected to the coil both wires will show power. (because the power will go through the coil and will still light up the test light.

A logic probe with power and ground LEDs can do the tests easier because you can see the power and the ground in the circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsabz9wNiYI

the signal to fire the coil is a ground signal. the power should always be present with the key in run or start. Let me know what you find out.

[guest]

Toyota Avalon, 2008. Battery discharges when car is shut down. No known lights or accessories on. Recharge and start, same problem after shutdown.

[carriedi]

how old is the battery? An older battery will show it charges up on a charger but if won't have the amp capacity to start the engine after a short time.

If the battery is pretty new then I would look for a draw on the battery. Make sure you don't have a hood switch that the computer monitors and shut everything off. After an hour check for any draw on the battery. You can measure voltage differences on the fuses or you can hook up a amp gauge in series to the battery. If you can get an inductive amp gauge, you could use that too. see what amp draw you have on the battery.

Because amp draw sometimes take a while to show up, the in series gauge works best for me. I use the power probe Hook to look at the draw. 25 milliamp is a good draw that would take a long time to kill a good battery. Depending on all the electrical load it shouldn't go over 50 milliamp. Over that I would try to locate where the load is coming from

*also, just thought of this, you can use a thermal imager to look for your draw also. a fuse or relay that has current running through it will be warmer than the unused components around it.