1992 toyota camry over heating
2003 Kia Spectra Stalls Out And Engine Light On
I have a 2003 kia spectra. I had my transmission rebuilt a year ago and there isn't anything wrong with it that I know of. I was driving it a little over a week ago with no problems. Recently at a stop light I was breaking as usual. For some reason as I was using my breaks I felt it give out on the break and I had to put more pressure on it kinda like a surge. My car died at the stoplight so I shifted to park and turned it all the way off and back on again.
The check engine light came on obviously when the car stalled but when I started it up again it didn't come on. As I drove off, I noticed that my car really lacked power. I didn't want to gun down and try to get it to go faster because it was really having trouble gaining power and speed.
The check engine light came on obviously when the car stalled but when I started it up again it didn't come on. As I drove off, I noticed that my car really lacked power. I didn't want to gun down and try to get it to go faster because it was really having trouble gaining power and speed.
Re: 2003 Kia Spectra Stalls Out And Engine Light On
Well, that problem would have surely set some trouble codes in the vehicle's computer. Since you definitely have an issue now with acceleration, there is something that is preventing that. Normal things to go out and cause problems like this are electronic throttle bodies, computer sensors, plugged catalytic converters, etc.
You should at least get your Kia scanned and see what, if any, codes had been stored during the stalling event. Those codes will help you or another technician find the actual problem.
You should at least get your Kia scanned and see what, if any, codes had been stored during the stalling event. Those codes will help you or another technician find the actual problem.
GM Dealer Technician For 18+ Years
In the automotive industry for 20+
In the automotive industry for 20+
Toyota Camry General
Hi,
What is the meaning of this on the sticker of the driver door where the VIN number ?
A/TM 01A/U241E
What is the meaning of this on the sticker of the driver door where the VIN number ?
A/TM 01A/U241E
Re: Toyota Camry General
a/tm is for axle / transmission
so you axle code is 01A
and your trans is U241E
so you axle code is 01A
and your trans is U241E
Re: Toyota Camry General
Thanks
Is the 01A determine the speed ?
if it is 4A is that means 4 speed ?
Is the 01A determine the speed ?
if it is 4A is that means 4 speed ?
carriedi wrote:a/tm is for axle / transmission
so you axle code is 01A
and your trans is U241E
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1992 toyota camry over heating
my car has been over heating the first time I heard a clicking sound before my car shut off. I have to fill my water everytime i want to leave the house i have not seen a dicolor in my engine oil but now when i drive my car shakes.. any suggestions?
Re: 1992 toyota camry over heating
it sounds like you may have a blown head gasket now. Anytime an engine overheats with an aluminum head there is a possibility to damage the head gasket contact between the head and block. The engine and the head expand when they get warm. The head gasket between the two surfaces should keep them sealed during normal temperatures. When an engine OVERHEATS the expansion of the head and block exceeds the limits of head gasket. The engine and the block don't expand at the same rate. Head usually expands more than the block. When the head expands differently than the block it separates the head gasket contact.
When the coolant port through the head gasket starts to leak into the cylinder you could get white smoke out the tailpipe. When the engine starts to run rough means that enough coolant is going into the cylinder that it causes the cylinder to miss. You should get a check engine light for a misfire code to tell you what cylinder. If not you may want to check by cutting off the spark or the injector pulse to each cylinder one at a time to see which cylinder doesn't change the idle as much as the others. Then with the engine off, remove the spark plug from the weak cylinder and pressure test the cooling system and watch for coolant into the cylinder. If you have a borescope you could look down into all the cylinders and look to see which piston top looks cleaned off. Most times the coolant hitting the piston will clean off the carbon.
If it is a blown head gasket problem you have to try and figure why it went bad. You don't want to replace the head gasket and have the original overheat problem overheats the engine again because it hasn't been addressed.
When the coolant port through the head gasket starts to leak into the cylinder you could get white smoke out the tailpipe. When the engine starts to run rough means that enough coolant is going into the cylinder that it causes the cylinder to miss. You should get a check engine light for a misfire code to tell you what cylinder. If not you may want to check by cutting off the spark or the injector pulse to each cylinder one at a time to see which cylinder doesn't change the idle as much as the others. Then with the engine off, remove the spark plug from the weak cylinder and pressure test the cooling system and watch for coolant into the cylinder. If you have a borescope you could look down into all the cylinders and look to see which piston top looks cleaned off. Most times the coolant hitting the piston will clean off the carbon.
If it is a blown head gasket problem you have to try and figure why it went bad. You don't want to replace the head gasket and have the original overheat problem overheats the engine again because it hasn't been addressed.
my toyota camry 2001 drags
my toyota camry 2001 drags mostly especially when climbing hills, no matter hard i pressed the throttle pedal, the rpm does not go beyond 2x1000rpm in drive mode but it rev well in idle(park mode though the rpm is always 0.3x1000rpm even with ac on),it consumes fuel abnormally(1L to 2km)it also emits black smoke. I have clean the air flow meter , air filter and changed the fuel pump but the problem still persist.
Re: my toyota camry 2001 drags
ok, first thing is the black smoke. Black smoke is unburned fuel. That means your fuel mileage could be better. Have you hooked up your car to a scanner and looked at the data stream? Or codes? You might have a coolant temp sensor reading too cold so when the engine is warmed up you're still getting a rich mixture. And if this has been going on for a while your cat may be damaged.
when you top out at 2000 rpm is the engine still running smoothly, not missing just no more power or does it start cutting out?
you should actually drive your car with the scanner on it and see what is happening when it acts up. Drive up a bid incline and see what your O2 sensor does and what the fuel is doing. Is your car the 2.2 or the 3.0?
when you top out at 2000 rpm is the engine still running smoothly, not missing just no more power or does it start cutting out?
you should actually drive your car with the scanner on it and see what is happening when it acts up. Drive up a bid incline and see what your O2 sensor does and what the fuel is doing. Is your car the 2.2 or the 3.0?
Alternator noise in my car
My car has a strange noise coming from the alternator. What's wrong and can I drive it to the shop more than 40 miles from where I live?
Re: Alternator noise in my car
most of the time you can drive with the alternator making noise. Of course, it could also seize the alternator and throw off the belt. Most cars use a serpentine belt that runs all the belt driven components, so if you lose the belt you lose power steering and water pump operation as well.
bearing noise from an alternator could mean the bearings could heat up and seize however many people drive with the noise for days before they take it in to a shop to see what's going on. Many alternators use an over running clutch on the drive pulley. They can cause a noise all by them selves. They are not as critical as they bearing as to how long you can drive before something goes seriously wrong.
so, to say if you can drive it 40 miles... no I can't give you any help. You are taking your chances. If you decide to drive it to the shop, take your cell phone with you just in case.
bearing noise from an alternator could mean the bearings could heat up and seize however many people drive with the noise for days before they take it in to a shop to see what's going on. Many alternators use an over running clutch on the drive pulley. They can cause a noise all by them selves. They are not as critical as they bearing as to how long you can drive before something goes seriously wrong.
so, to say if you can drive it 40 miles... no I can't give you any help. You are taking your chances. If you decide to drive it to the shop, take your cell phone with you just in case.
Abs code 1241
Does anyone know whst this term means? For a 1999 toy.avalon xls.abs and trac. control blink help please!
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