2010 Ford Explorer overheating when accelerating, no heat

[butterman]

1994 Ford F-150 blower fan motor blows only on high speed but not any low speeds.

[tec]

1994 ford f-150 fan motor blows only on high.

check the controle switch next to the blower

[lightspeed]

I posted this here as they didnt have a van area .
this is the problem :

This is on a ford Aerostar van 3.0 liter engine my air conditioner in the aerostar had always had a slow leak i could put a/c in it and it held for about a year at a time (it has been changed over to r134 a a/c . )
I put in some stop leak this time before i put in the r134 a a/c then put in 4 cans of the a/c the a/c started kicking on on off ( i had it on maximum a/c while putting a/c charge in and turned cans upside down on each one before removing them . ) then a/c/ unite made a very loud sound ( sounded like a starter on a car was stuck while flywheel was going around ) so i shut it off real quick . . later i started it up and put it on low setting on the a/c and it did it again with the same sound .

On the sealant i put in the a/c i did just what it said after it was in i immediently put in the a/c 134a so that it wouldn't stop up the line where you hook up the a/c line to cans .
the sealant was bought at wal mart cost 22.00 and was called :r134 a super seal by interdynamics it says seals leaks in both rubber and metal parts .
did this stuff ruin my a/c unit ? that's what i am worried about ..
before when i used to put in new a/c recharging it it would get cold on the large tall round black thing (condenser?) under the hood area nest to the enclosed fan.and of course the a/c would kick on and stay on running when full , now it does nothing but makes that loud sound like a starter that's stuck !
Can you please help me ??? it will be getting hot very soon !!!
thanks !

[ProTech]

Yeah, I never recommend trying to add anything other than refrigerant and the proper oil to any A/C system. It could have very well clogged up the compressor and/or other parts which is causing pressure differentials and other issues causing the noise. One thing I may note though, are you sure you're getting the proper amount of R134a into the system. Just adding can after can is NOT the correct way to try and get it to blow cold. You really need to make sure it's fully empty (by recovering the system) and then fill it to the proper amount (there should be a sticker under the hood with that information). If you've added too little or too much you can also do damage to the system. You might want to pay the money to have an A/C service performed at a shop just so you know the extent of the problem.

[lightspeed]

thanks protech for getting back to me on this , i went back out today to try it again and was recording it with my camera on a tri pod and it wouldn't make that noise and the a/c unit was kicking on and off (like when theirs not enough a/c in it but it did seem to blow out cold air i had it on and off at different times for around 15 minutes , before after it was on about 3 minutes or less it started that loud grinding sound when the a/c kicked on , very strange . I will test it more tomorrow . I do have another question about something else but will ask it in a new topic .

[stephson777]

have a 2005 f250 that the gauge says it getting hot but you can shut vehicle off for 3 mins and it does not stay hot but will go to hot after running a little more and the fluid never starts boiling. I have replaced the temp sending unit under intake manifold any suggestions

[carriedi]

use an infrared temperature non-contact thermometer gun to check the actual temp at the sender. See if the temp at the sender is matching the gauge or the gauge is wrong. Also scan the data and see if the computer agrees with the gauge temp.

[fgomes]

my ac is plowing hot air only.99 f350 ford supper duty diesel.thanks

[carriedi]

is the ac compressor even coming on? if not maybe you're low on 134a

[csylvia02]

My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.

Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.

The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.

The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.

I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.

Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
Replaced Radiator.
Replaced Thermostat.
Drain and flush and re-service.
Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
Removed supply hose and ran coolant to help purge trapped air.
Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.
Check operation of heater control valve, works.
Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.

Problems still occurring:
Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.

My background is no car experience, I am a helicopter mechanic and if this was an AH64 I would be done by now. SO please take it easy on a rookie shade tree mechanic.

Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump someone please talk me out of that.

[carriedi]

they make a tool to evacuate the cooling system of air. (Airlift) Snap on tools makes a slightly different version. You empty the cooling system as much as possible, then use the tool to evacuate the air, then you switch a valve and the vacuum in the cooling system pulls the replacement coolant back into the system. Takes out the air pockets that you might get trying to fill from the radiator with coolant already in the system.

The water pump circulates coolant through the engine. When the thermostat is closed the pump still pushes coolant around. It should be circulating to the heater core. (when there is no air in the system) When the engine seems warm (or hot as the case may be) feel the two heater hoses that go to the heater core. Do they both feel hot? does on feel hot and the other one not? do they both feel cold? Things that can cause problems is an air pocket in the heater core. Water pump not circulating enough coolant, (impeller could come loose) This could be why it overheats. A plugged up radiator could also be a reason why the engine overheats while driving but cools down at idle. Restricted flow could be why there is enough cooling at idle but on higher RPM you can't get enough flow through the radiator. But that should make the heater work hotter so I would go back to air pocket or water pump.

[dhdishner]

Get a block testing kit. I am pretty certain you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head. If you have a blown head gasket, make sure to get the heads resurfaced if they are in spec. A lot of times the head will warp if it has been overheated. If the head is too warped, it is best to get new heads. those are all ifs, if the heads are in spec, and are free of cracks, A head gasket with upper gasket set should fix your issue.


** forgot to explain why**
when the head gasket is blown. This forces combustion gasses into the cooling system little by little (or a ton depending on how bad). If it is slight, when you increase engine speed, this raises the compression, which forces air into the cooling system at a higher rate creating an air pocket. This air is far hotter than the coolant so the coolant temp gauge will climb.

In bad cases, you will see a milky substance inside the oil cap, and possibly coolant in the oil. Just drain it and set it aside overnight. It will separate if there is any coolant there. This is because a blown head gasket or cracked head can also suck coolant into the combustion chamber and it will either drain off to the oil, or burn off while driving, or both.

The heater will have issues due to air pockets and what not. But I'm sure you knew that already from chasing the mystery problem.

Don't worry man, a hair crack in the head of a customers car had me about to crack my own head from beating it on the wall. I chased it and chased it and pulled the heads 3 times. Lastly having the heads sent off to a machinist to have it dye tested for cracks. Low and behold. A tiny little f**ker that a tick with a magnifying glass couldn't see.

Hopefully this helps and good luck.