fan motor/heater core
1998 ford contour elec door locks
my driver door is locked. I can hear the motor working when I push lock .when I push unlock no noise no nothing. the other 3 doors are fine. could be a fuse? relay? if so where would it be located ? please help
Re: 1998 ford contour elec door locks
no, it cannot be a fuse. the fuse would be for the circuit not for a separate operation. If the fuse or relay was bad it would affect all the lock actuators. you say you can hear the lock work when you push lock. But, does it lock? why would you say you can hear it work? or do you mean that you hear it make noise but it doesn't lock? Sounds like you may have something wrong with the actuator. You are going to have to remove the door panel and see what the actuator is doing. I don't think it will be a problem with the switch bacause the other locks are working normally (and they all use the same circuit)
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southpaw
fan motor/heater core
is it ok to use rubber sealant around fan motor under dashboard to stop leak?
Re: fan motor/heater core
it would be better to find out what is leaking and fix that. Is the leak coolant or is it water from condensation collection from the evaporator?
if it is water, check the drain for the heater box that goes outside. It's probably plugged up
if it is water, check the drain for the heater box that goes outside. It's probably plugged up
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BroKnux
Ford Contour PCV Valve replacement
OK, I own a 1998 ford contour 4-cylinder. That I have to replace the
PCV valve. This is not an easy part to change on this vehicle.
It is located up front next to the Exhaust Manifold. However, there is an Exhaust Manifold Cover in the way. The Problem is that the bolts are siezed.
What I want to know is, do I need the cover? Can I torch or cut it off and won't have any problems?
PCV valve. This is not an easy part to change on this vehicle.
It is located up front next to the Exhaust Manifold. However, there is an Exhaust Manifold Cover in the way. The Problem is that the bolts are siezed.
What I want to know is, do I need the cover? Can I torch or cut it off and won't have any problems?
Re: Ford Contour PCV Valve replacement
this is one person's experience...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-WTG5DMwvk
going in from the side on this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4jzk0XhBtI
using penetrating oil made to work with rusted parts will help a lot. you have to spray it on and wait a while. 10 - 20 min works for me. The heat shield is to keep the heat from exhaust manifold away from other parts that may be adversely affected, like your hands... Keeps the fans from blowing directly onto a hot manifold and keeps the heat from the manifold from heating up your radiator.
I think torching the cover would be bad if something goes wrong with the open flame. Using a good ratchet and making the bolts move will either free them or break them off. If they break off I would be worried about how the manifold bolts are going to be...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-WTG5DMwvk
going in from the side on this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4jzk0XhBtI
using penetrating oil made to work with rusted parts will help a lot. you have to spray it on and wait a while. 10 - 20 min works for me. The heat shield is to keep the heat from exhaust manifold away from other parts that may be adversely affected, like your hands... Keeps the fans from blowing directly onto a hot manifold and keeps the heat from the manifold from heating up your radiator.
I think torching the cover would be bad if something goes wrong with the open flame. Using a good ratchet and making the bolts move will either free them or break them off. If they break off I would be worried about how the manifold bolts are going to be...
'97 Mercury Sable-How to Refill Coolant After Overheating
'97 Mercury Sable, V6 Engine, (pretty sure it's the Vulcan engine, it's the one 87% of them have, not the other).Since the heater was leaking, I had someone bypass the heater until I put a new one in, which I didn't do, (only use the car for very short trips into town). Was driving yesterday and the serpentine belt slipped off. suddenly the car became hard to steer, I noticed it was overheating, and the battery light went on. I pulled into a supermarket parking lot, got the permission to leave it overnight, and am borrowing my cousin's car. The engine temp dial showed it went very near the top, and when I opened the hood the overflow reservoir had leaked coolant all over, (which I expected).
Surprisingly, the belt is not broken, only stretched a great deal. I had no problem fitting the belt back on according the diagram on the inside of the hood, only of course there is too much slack. Assuming I have no problem putting a new serpentine belt back on, I was just wondering about two things.
1. Assuming the water pump is fine, (put in a year ago), instead of coolant, can I fill the overfill tank with plain water, then drive the car the 5 miles to my house, drain the system, then refill with water again, drain, and maybe repeat the process again before putting in the coolant/water mixture? I don't know how to reverse flush the system, though I do have a water hose at the house.
2. Can I trust the oil in the car to drive home with? It's due for an oil change anyway, just wondering if overheating the engine might have destroyed the viscosity of the oil so it shouldn't be driven even 5 miles.
Any advice is sincerely appreciated.
Surprisingly, the belt is not broken, only stretched a great deal. I had no problem fitting the belt back on according the diagram on the inside of the hood, only of course there is too much slack. Assuming I have no problem putting a new serpentine belt back on, I was just wondering about two things.
1. Assuming the water pump is fine, (put in a year ago), instead of coolant, can I fill the overfill tank with plain water, then drive the car the 5 miles to my house, drain the system, then refill with water again, drain, and maybe repeat the process again before putting in the coolant/water mixture? I don't know how to reverse flush the system, though I do have a water hose at the house.
2. Can I trust the oil in the car to drive home with? It's due for an oil change anyway, just wondering if overheating the engine might have destroyed the viscosity of the oil so it shouldn't be driven even 5 miles.
Any advice is sincerely appreciated.
Re: '97 Mercury Sable-How to Refill Coolant After Overheatin
if you are using regular motor oil it is not made to run in an overheated motor. It starts to break down around 275F. That's well past the beginning of the red on a temp gauge but it can get up there. Oil temp runs a little hotter than water temp. Usually around 230 to 260. How hot do you think you got it?
If the belt was loose, is loose, make sure your belt tensioner is working. It should have a lot of tension on it and want to spring back and keep the belt tight. It would be more likely that the tensioner is bad than the belt to stretch far enough it would power steering slip. Unless there is another problem like the AC locking up or something. Anytime there is a belt problem where the PS is slipping then the water pump and alternator could be slipping too so it overheats and the battery light can come on. So, how's your tensioner?
When I have the coolant system open I use and airlift tool that evacuates the air similar to how AC systems use. Suck out all the air and then let the vacuum pull the new coolant into the car. Without the airlift tool I have a funnel that goes into the radiator and fill the cooling system and let idle keeping the cooling system full until the fan cycles on and off, And you may have to let it cool down overnight and fill and do it again.
If the belt was loose, is loose, make sure your belt tensioner is working. It should have a lot of tension on it and want to spring back and keep the belt tight. It would be more likely that the tensioner is bad than the belt to stretch far enough it would power steering slip. Unless there is another problem like the AC locking up or something. Anytime there is a belt problem where the PS is slipping then the water pump and alternator could be slipping too so it overheats and the battery light can come on. So, how's your tensioner?
When I have the coolant system open I use and airlift tool that evacuates the air similar to how AC systems use. Suck out all the air and then let the vacuum pull the new coolant into the car. Without the airlift tool I have a funnel that goes into the radiator and fill the cooling system and let idle keeping the cooling system full until the fan cycles on and off, And you may have to let it cool down overnight and fill and do it again.
Mercury cougar-1999
When the battery is connected and the key is off the car makes a ticking sound from under passenger side dash.. when they key is on and the car starts it goes away.. What do I do? I believe it drained the last battery and I put in a new one today.
Re: Mercury cougar-1999
you need to find out what is clicking. something is powering up and turning off. a relay or some circuit is using power to make the click. You should feel around to find out what unit is clicking.
the right kick panel has the alarm relay that could be clicking.
sit on the passenger side of the car and verify that the noise is coming from the right side. you may have to take the panel under the dash off to see if you can locate the noise. May even have to remove the glove box. Without hearing the clicking I don't know if it is a relay click, a door actuator click, some sort of body control module or what?
Park the car with the front windows down. turn the key off and remove the key. close the doors like your all done with the car. How long does the clicking continue? Does it ever time out or does it keep going until the battery is dead? If it keeps going until the battery is dead you could try pulling fuses out of the under hood fuse box until you hear the clicking stop. then see what fuse made it stop. That would narrow it down and you could look at what that fuse powers up.
the right kick panel has the alarm relay that could be clicking.
sit on the passenger side of the car and verify that the noise is coming from the right side. you may have to take the panel under the dash off to see if you can locate the noise. May even have to remove the glove box. Without hearing the clicking I don't know if it is a relay click, a door actuator click, some sort of body control module or what?
Park the car with the front windows down. turn the key off and remove the key. close the doors like your all done with the car. How long does the clicking continue? Does it ever time out or does it keep going until the battery is dead? If it keeps going until the battery is dead you could try pulling fuses out of the under hood fuse box until you hear the clicking stop. then see what fuse made it stop. That would narrow it down and you could look at what that fuse powers up.