This van sat about 15 years, but I recently started it and drove it for 20 or so minutes and since it was running so well, I took it to the car wash. After the car wash, (and not washed under the hood) it doesn't idle. It will crank and start, but only for 1.5-2 seconds. It won't stay running.
My first thought was fuel, so I changed the fuel filter. No difference.
My friend put a fuel pressure gauge on it and said the fuel pressure dropped when it started. I put a new fuel pump in it and it. No difference.
Then he guessed fuel pressure regulator. I put the fuel pressure gauge on it again and get about 42 psi. as I crank it will drop to about 38psi.
Any suggestions of where to go next? It is making me a bit crazy at the moment.
95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
Re: 95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
running fuel pressure should be 41 - 47 psi. 38 is lower than spec but it should still run.
you should try and get it scanned to see what is happening when it starts up and then shuts down. Is the injector pulse going away? is the spark going away? Will it stay running if you use carb cleaner in the intake? (not starting fluid) If you can get it to continue to run on carb cleaner then see what the scanner shows what is happening then.
you have to find out what goes missing. or is it temp. MAF, Purge valve open, torque converter stuck, etc. But since fuel pressure seems reasonable the other tings to check first is spark and injector pulse. Let me know what you find and then we'll see if you need to go farther
you should try and get it scanned to see what is happening when it starts up and then shuts down. Is the injector pulse going away? is the spark going away? Will it stay running if you use carb cleaner in the intake? (not starting fluid) If you can get it to continue to run on carb cleaner then see what the scanner shows what is happening then.
you have to find out what goes missing. or is it temp. MAF, Purge valve open, torque converter stuck, etc. But since fuel pressure seems reasonable the other tings to check first is spark and injector pulse. Let me know what you find and then we'll see if you need to go farther
Re: 95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
At the moment I am waiting on a fuel pressure regulator to show up, its ordered. My friend showed me documentation where the fuel pressure should go up if we disconnect the vacuum hose from the FPR. Currently it doesn't do anything at all different which sort of convinced me to try the FPR.
This is also a 1995. Half the year has OBD, the rest hasn't. Unfortunately I am in the hasn't.
This is also a 1995. Half the year has OBD, the rest hasn't. Unfortunately I am in the hasn't.
Re: 95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
the fuel pressure should go up a little bit when you disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator but that is while the engine is running. If you have a rubber return line you could pinch off the return hose and get a deadhead fuel pressure. that would tell you is the regulator is reducing the fuel pumps pressure from the tank of if the pump is maxed out. But like I said before 38 psi is below spec but it should be enough to make the engine stay running. Should be anyways.
while 95 might not be obd2 it should still have the obd1 connector. OBD1 should have the 12 pin connector and the OBD2 should have the 16 pin connector. this is the obd1 connector.
while 95 might not be obd2 it should still have the obd1 connector. OBD1 should have the 12 pin connector and the OBD2 should have the 16 pin connector. this is the obd1 connector.
Re: 95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
Mine has an OBD housing, but there are only 4 pin connectors in it.
Re: 95 olds sillhoeutte 3800 cranks, starts for 1.5 seconds and dies
I would scan the vehicle first. GM has had OBD1 since the "80's". Both Chrysler and GM had a pretty good system. You could read codes and look at data stream. Ford didn't have a good data stream until the "90's". All three were able to read codes.
you can get codes in the key on engine off mode by jumping the OBD1 connector. Jump the connector then turn the key on to acc. the dash should be lit up and the check engine should blink the code numbers. If there is more than one code it will run through all the codes and then repeat. It will keep blinking until you turn the key off.
without a scanner you would want to use a graphing multimeter to look at the signals at the ICM (ignition control module). Because this is where the crank signal goes through for spark and sends the signal to the computer for the fuel injectors.
you can get codes in the key on engine off mode by jumping the OBD1 connector. Jump the connector then turn the key on to acc. the dash should be lit up and the check engine should blink the code numbers. If there is more than one code it will run through all the codes and then repeat. It will keep blinking until you turn the key off.
without a scanner you would want to use a graphing multimeter to look at the signals at the ICM (ignition control module). Because this is where the crank signal goes through for spark and sends the signal to the computer for the fuel injectors.
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