low rpm car cuts off @ idle

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Junnie

low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by Junnie » Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:39 am

I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme S 3.1 and back in Feb my cut was cutting off while making a slow turn, but started back up; took it to Firestone to check it.They checked stater, battery, alternator and they were ok, but they tried to replace a IAC and sensor, didn't work,they cleaned the throttle body, didn't work either. Took it back to them and this time they put it on a scanner and it needed a CRANKSHAFT SENSOR,so took it to another shop and they put one on,but it doing the samething , but worse.In short, they have put in another EGR, cleaned the fuel injectors a new alternator, which was running over 15volts, now I need something called a A/T CONTROL SOLENOID, but MEKINIE says they don't install this,but I had a transmission installed by them back in 2014 or15.I was told by the manager that ANY part they put in I don't have to pay for cause of the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR they put in.What should Firestone should have checked out 1st? And do a A/T CONTROL SOLENOID sound right?

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carriedi
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Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by carriedi » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:14 am

when firestone scanned it, why did they say it needed the crank sensor? Did they actually see it cut out? Did they just read the codes? Did they just guess? what was the reason they wanted to change it.

If there was a crank sensor code, or they saw the crank sensor drop out, it might not the sensor itself. It could be a break in the wiring to the sensor. Try graphing the crank sensor with the engine off. Wiggle the wire harness. See if the crank sensor reading changes. It is not uncommon for the wire harness to break 4 or 5 inches up from the sensor. buying a crank sensor connector with about 6 to 9 inches of wire for the pigtail usually exceeds the breakage area.

Yes, a trans solenoid could cause the engine to stall but it doesn't sound like a trans problem. But it is possible.

has anyone driven the car with a scanner on it so they could graph everything and see what happens when it starts to act up? when it acts up does the check engine light come on?

Is there any codes or multiple codes that are saved in the computer after the engine acts up?

because it acts up on turning makes it sound like something is either loose, broken or rubbed through. when the vehicle turns everything moves, twists or torques over. Pulling ground wires. flexing wire harnesses...

do more checking before you put more parts on

Junnie

Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by Junnie » Tue Jul 13, 2021 12:37 am

As far as I know, Firestone did SCANNED it,one of the techs had an OB1 SCANNER & that's what the code read. As far has anyone test drove it after each thing Mekinie done, they told me YES and it stopped SURGING after the last part they put in which was a NEW alternator, which had too many volts;15voltswhich was too high;THE OLD ONE. They checked the TORQUE CONVERTER and they checked that a/t solenoid & that's what it needed. The car has been in Mekinie for over 3 months;90days,but during the time I talked to the manager told me then if they have to put on any parts, it would be FREE OF CHARGED, under CUSTOMER SATISFACTION, but if they had to take it to a transmission shop THEY USES, will this be the same deal? How much does it unsally cost for them to do it or will it be cheaper to just clean it?

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carriedi
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Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by carriedi » Fri Jul 16, 2021 3:32 am

scanners give you a code number. then you figure out what causes the code. If you had a code for crank sensor you check what happens when the computer sets the code. Is it a crank sensor? Is it a bad connection to the sensor? Is there a break in the wire somewhere going to the computer. On thig to do would be to drive it with the scanner graphing the sensor. They should have driven the vehicle and when you feel it cut out it should show up on the crank sensor graph. Onve they get it to show up on the graph then save that and take it back to the shop and now they could let it idle and wiggle the wiring and see if they can duplicate the cutting out.

!5 volt is slightly overcharging. You said it was cutting off on slow turns and yes a crank sensor or wiring to the crank sensor can cause that to happen. Coking in the throttle body can also cause this to happen because the computer doesn't react to the engine and steering load before the idle goes too low.

If Mekinie said it stopped surging, was the car surging before? Is that different from cutting out on slow turns or is this something else? If it isn't surging, does that mean it okay? Why haven't they given it back to you?

Was there a code for the crank sensor? Is there a code for a trans solenoid? what are the code numbers? Can they give you a print out of the codes your car has, or had?

Here's what I would have done first with your car. You said it cuts out on slow turns, but started back up. Did it start back up because it hadn't completely stalled out or did it stall and you restarted it? Then either way I would have driven it with a scanner on it and graph all the parameters I could and try to duplicate the problem. If I had to I would have had you drive it and try to make it act up. (if I couldn't make it act up with me driving it) Once the vehicle does act up I would save the graphs. I would go over all the graphs to see what was happening when it was acting up. Was I getting a bad crank signal? What was the IAC doing? Was the ignition voltage to high? If there were any codes I would have printed them out. If the graphs showed anything irregular I would print that out too. If nothing showed up and it seemed like a trans problem I would do the same thing for the trans. If there is a code, print it out. Drive it and graph the trans parameters. Try to make it act up and see what the graphs show for the transmission. everything gets printed out. One copy for you and one for me. This way you can see what I'm doing and looking for, and you could take the codes and the graphs to any other shop and they could look at them and see what has been happening.

Because they have had it over 90 days I would give them a call and ask what going on? Have they just given up? What are they waiting for? If it needs a trans solenoid, what solenoid does it need? Torque converter lock up solenoid? Pressure solenoid? Shift A, Shift B, TCC enable, TCC (pwm) solenoid or the whole solenoid block?

Does your car have a switch for the power steering line? It tells the computer to up the idle on high power steering pressures. Should have a PID for that in the scanner.

also check wiring for any worn areas. there may be wires worn and when the engine torques over it touches just right and starts to short out.

Bad ground connection from battery to body? Engine torquing pulls on wiring?

Do you have a lot of stuff on your key ring? Too heavy a key ring can wear out the ignition switch. Causing a disconnect when turning.

Lots of stuff to check but should be able to do it within the 90 days it been at the shop.

If the shop can't figure it out they should at least give you back your car so you can drive it. (maybe check another shop. you might have to pay but if they can fix your car how much would have a car rental have been for over 90 days?)

Let me know what happens please...

junnie

Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by junnie » Sun Jul 25, 2021 3:37 pm

Thanks for the quick answer, As far as I know, I don't know if they have driven the car hooked up to their scanner or not.for what they had told me they scanned it it came up A/T SOLENOID. Before that when they told me what I needed, they at first said that was something they couldn't do in fact they gave me a transmission shop they are using & they were about to have my car towed back, to me it wasn't safe to drive. When I didn't hear from them in a weeks time, they said they WERE going to take it to the transmission shop and the manager was going to text me about the continued work. I never heard back. I give them an extra week, called again & found out the guy who was in charge of my car had a death in the family, so they took it over yesterday before closing to have it there for Monday. Wondering WHY they changed their mines on doing it? Was it the fact that THEY installed a transmission in my car back in 2015 and could be STILL under warranty?

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carriedi
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Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by carriedi » Mon Jul 26, 2021 10:48 pm

you should ask the people that have your car, What's happening with my car?.

if they took it to the tranny shop, did they tell the tranny shop your complaint was cutting out and dying on slow turning? Or did they just tell the tranny shop to do a specific repair? Could that repair fix the cutting out on slow turns?

junnie

Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by junnie » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:18 pm

my car is still @ the shop.The manager said that the guy that was supposed to had taken it to the shop is sick & in the hospital.This is 120 days or 4 months since it's been in the shop When I 1st took it to them on April 9th, the manager did say that any parts they put in WOULD b FREE,to me @ this ponit the WHOLE JOB, including the repairs from the transmission shop, SHOULD BE FREE.My car still hasn't been inspected, so what should the shop do for me @ this point? Thanks

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carriedi
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Re: low rpm car cuts off @ idle

Unread post by carriedi » Thu Aug 19, 2021 1:01 pm

at this point I would ask if they can repair your car or not. I would tell the shop that I am sorry your mechanic is in the hospital but put someone else on the job or let me take it to another shop that might be able to help me. 4 months is way too long. What are you doing for transportation while they have your car?

Ask them if the problem you brought it in for is still happening or not. If that problem is fixed why haven't they given you your car back? Is there another problem? What is that problem if there is one?

Why haven't they given the job to another mechanic? Does the shop only have one mechanic? How often have they called you on the progress of your car? Or do they wait for you to call and always give you excuses why you can't have your car back yet? Have you asked to talk to the manager or the owner about your car? Maybe talk about a refund on any money you have paid so far and take your car to another shop. A shop that can start from scratch and see if they can figure it out.


before you take it to another shop, drive it and see how it is driving. If you do take it to another shop, tell them what the car is doing wrong. If it's possible, drive the car with the service person so they can experience what is happening. Do not tell them all the things that have happened at the other shop. That information my just cloud the diagnosis they need to do. Going off on tangents from the other shop. Let them start clean.

Let me know what happens

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