2004 chevy trailblazer

[soreleg]

There is a switch on the left side of the steering column in my 2005 Trailblazer that moves the gas and brake peddle up or down. I cannot get the switch to move the peddles back down. When I push the switch there is just a clicking noise and no movement. I have checked the fuse box and cannot find a fuse that is specific to this switch. Is this just a fuse problem or what? Any ideas or solutions would be helpful.
Thanks,

[Garyonnow]

The adjustable pedal system on this truck uses a motor to control the movement of the petals. If there is a clicking noise when you are holding the switch that sounds like the motor is jammed. If it is just one click when you hit the switch, that may not be the motor, it could be a position sensor that's telling the module where the pedals are. The pedals are controlled by the memory seat module. There are two fuses that are used in the circuit. In the under hood fuse block one is a 15 amp fuse labeled "EAP", the other is the backup light fuse. Be sure to check those first. Aside from that a scanner would be needed to look at the adjustable pedal data.

[hook]

This came on a few days ago. Every thing works except it won't shift to4L. With the engine off you can hear the shift motors run from 2H-AWD-4H then nothing when trying to go 4L. The dash switch seems to function properly what else do I need to check. Thanks for your time.

[ProTech]

Usually when it won't shift into a certain 4WD range, it is a faulty encoder motor on the side of the transfer case. Since the 'Service 4WD' light appeared, the transfer case control module would have stored a trouble code. If you can get it scanned, that would obviously help.

If the encoder motor does need replaced, it's a very easy change. You might want to inspect the wiring harness going to the encoder motor just to make sure there is no corrosion or terminal problems that would lead to another problem.

[Seabreeze98]

I have a 2004 Trailblazer that started, shifted into reverse, backed up, but once I tried to shift into drive it would not shift. The shifter acts like it is locked up , the display shows the transmission is in neutral. Any suggestions on what the problem could be?

[carriedi]

so we are not talking about the transmission right? only the shifter? you say the indicator shows neutral, is the trans in neutral? does it go back into reverse and park?

your going to need to see if the problem is in the shifter, the cable or the trans that won't let the shifter move.

[jmgm]

happen to me transmission shift lever bushing broke cable should be hanging down when you look under truck

[maddjack]

2005 Trailblazer, has been sitting for a very long time, both front calipers seized, replaced front calipers, brakes all the way around, and a new master cylinder. I am old school, I haven't been brake certified since 1981, which means I know nothing of ABS.

I have no air in the lines, awesome fluid flow, Rock hard pedal with engine off, start engine, pedal will go almost to floor, with a sound of lightly rushing air under dash. All test for vacuum booster indicate that it is fine, but I'm beginning to have my doubts. At the same time the symptom isn't what my memory of a vacuum booster acts like when it's bad. As I recall with a bad vacuum booster you'll get a solid 2 foot brake pedal to stop the car. I'm 61 years old on disability, I've done this sort of work all my life, but the sun and the heat are killing me. Please help.

[carriedi]

take the vacuum line off the booster and plug it off. this way there is no vacuum just like when the engine doesn't run. Pump the brake pedal so you know all the vacuum is gone. Then start the engine up. Press on the brake pedal now. Does it still feel up on the top and hard to push? If the abs is the problem it would probably not feel the same as when the engine wasn't running. If the brake pedal feels just like it did before when the booster was hooked up but the vacuum pumped out of it then it is probably a bad booster. If the pedal act differently after you start the engine and have it running then you may have a problem with the abs. Scan for abs codes and look at your data stream to see what's happening.

ABS, normally, doesn't affect your regular braking. It just sits on the side until your wheel speed looks like a lock up is going to happen and it releases and reapplies the pressure to the wheels that are locking up.

[sbarrette]

170,000 miles rough idle slightly but majorly when in gear. it throws codes but doesnt keep the codes. when holding the brakes at a light it surges sometimes. in park or neutral slight rough idle. the bolt on the cam shaft sensor is broke from former owner p0014 is one of the codes. but is not always being thrown. so i think it is possible that it is just the vibration of the motor and the movement of positon. but another is p0455. changed the gas cap. i ordered the motor mounts. do i have liquid filled mounts or do i have straight stiff mounts. excuse the naivete im new to this and a single mom. i am learning

[carriedi]

you may have to have your cam sensor scoped to see if it has a consistent waveform. maybe fixing the broken bolt could fix the cam code...

make sure you don't have a vacuum leak that can affect your idle and surging problem. Unmetered aid can cause symptoms like this. Check the fuel trims to see if they are running a little lean. I have a propane bottle that has a valve and hose on it that I can move around the engine and look for vacuum leaks. you can either listen and watch the engine for a change if the propane is sucked in or, for smaller leaks (this will work with smaller and larger leaks), graph the o2 sensors on a scanner while you move the propane wand around and watch for the o2 sensor to jump to rich.

p0455 could be a leak like the gas cap. any where in the system. vacuum switching valve not working correctly. the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor not working. A scanner can do some tests on the purge solenoid and vent valve while watching the pressure sensor and see if they are working correctly. A smoke machine can lightly pressurize the evap system and check for leaks.

it's going to be hard to diagnose these system codes and the symptoms you have without some specialized equipment. you might look for a shop that can work with you and do the diagnostics for you. If you do find a shop that will just do the diag, remember that even testing and find problems, that may not cure all your woes. Unless you get a code like "you oxygen sensor has stopped working, replace it" it means you have to do some research to find out what the codes is relating to.

but at least you could have a direction to go in instead of just guessing and trying parts. They cal that "shotgunning". throwing a bunch of parts at the vehicle and see if that can fix it. That can get way more expensive than spending some money on diagnostics. But, sometimes shotgunning works. I've done it before. you look at all the symptoms. you test all the circuits and systems. You follow all the diagnostic trees. and everything still checks out good. So, you have to trust your gut and try something that makes sense. Something that would affect all the symptoms you are having and try a part. Some parts have what they call "in spec failures" they test good but they aren't actually working right. They're just not out of spec...but bad.

let me know if you find out what happening or if you need something I can help you with.