2009 Chevy Suburban 2500

[jds11ky]

I have a 2004 Suburban. The rear ac seems to work fine but the front blows only warm air. The system charge seems good at about 40 on the low side. The tube going into the front evaporator is cold. I have been told by GM that the lines going to the rear are leaking and that is causing this but it makes no sense since the rear unit is working and the pressure is good. I am hesitant to change the rear lines since that doesn't make sense to me and GM wants $2100 to do it. Might be time to trade it in on my first FORD.

[butchkaz]

Well, there could be several causes for this.
1. If they say the rear lines are leaking, that would tell me the freon charge is low. Reading the pressure may not be good enough. Drain and recharge with the correct amount. The sticker under hood will list froen amount for front only, or front and rear air. The rear evaporator core is smaller and does not need as much freon charge to come out cool, as the front does.
2. You may have a problem with the A/C conrrol head. There a re-program for this that would need to be done at the dealer. The re=program is necessary if there are codes stored such as B0029, B0414, B0420, B3770.
3. You may have a problem in the temp door actuator motors. There is one for each side.

[bigdogbelz71]

i have a 2003 suburban and i noticed near the condenser towards the bottom white "smoke" billowing out. Soon after this the A/C started to be cool instead of cold and now the air temp went from low 40's to mid 60's and is getting worse.
My cousin and i replaced the orifice tube thinking it may be clogged, but it wasn't. After recharging the system it worked for a few days, then the same thing happened, so now we are thinking maybe there is a pressure switch that isn't working or maybe the condenser is clogged causing the pressure to build then releases at the path of least resistance, but doesn't release all the freon, because there is still some cool air coming out.

[carriedi]

without using gauges to see what pressures you are running, everything will be guessing and using the shot gun approach with parts. There is a pressure switch on the receiver-drier but it works off the low side pressure. without gauges to see what the low side pressure is, how are you going to see if it is working correctly or not?

if you have a leak is the system, it will work until the pressure drops below the value the pressure switch is set at. then the low pressure switch will cut power to the compressor. Those switches do go bad and you could buy one and see if that fixes your problem. But if the system is low, the switch is working normally and you just wasted the money for the switch and you still have to find out what's going on.

[carriedi]

If you actually saw refrigerant leaking out near the condenser then you would have lost pressure and the ac system will loose pressure and turn off the compressor. Putting a set of ac gauges on the system will tell you if you are empty, low or how the system is working.

if you have a leak you will need to fix the leak or the refrigerant will just leak out again. Changing the pressure switch won't make any difference for a leak

[Jen2u2]

I have a very well kept 2009 Chevy Suburban with 106,000 miles on it. It has been relatively trouble free until the following electrical/computer issues began: I will start car and drive down the road and all of a sudden I get hit with 5 different error codes; Stabiltrak, Service 4 wheel drive, check brake control system, ABS icon flashes- then my door locks go up and down and my speedometer and RPM needed do not operate. Then the tranny will not shift up and my RPMs start running high. I have to pull over and turn the car off, wait a few minutes and restart. Sometimes it will not start and everything is totally dead. I will wait a few more minutes and then it will start and all will be good again. It is like turning a dysfunctional cell phone off and then restarting so it can reset and operate again. My Chevrolet Dealership cannot isolate the problem and after 3 months of sitting in their lot it is still not fixed. I know this is fixable but I need some expertise help. Any suggestions out there? I need to find a good mechanic in the Flathead Valley, Montana area that really knows Suburbans?

[carriedi]

not being there to check things out, I would look at the battery grounds and the ignition switch. 09 chevy should save codes when things start to go screwy. Were there any engine, trans, instrument cluster, body or abs codes after it acts up?

you may need to drive it with a scanner graphing the data stream to see what is happening as the vehicle is driven and it acts up. If it is a power or ground issue it may turn parts of the scanner off also but even that is a clue and a direction to start looking at.