Timing on 2000 Blazer v6

[Whisper6691]

I have a 200 Chevy Blazer with the vortec 4.3l V6. Recently had an intake water leak so decided that the timing chain also needed to be replaced due to the fact it had 140,000 + miles on original. Everything was lined up correctly and distributer was dropped back in exact same location. but the engine has a small backfire though the egr recirculation tube while trying to start it. I checked to make sure that the #1 cyl was a t TDC and aligned distributer to the #1 wire. everything has been hooked back up correctly and it has no loose connections. Other then the coolant leak the engine was running fine prior to the replacement. Any Ideas?

[Whisper6691]

Ok here we go again, after considerable research still have not found a solution. I have fire and fuel to the cylinders have a small backfire through the top as if it is out of time. The engine turns over beautifully without hesitation. Help me plz!

[ChevHead]

If it is backfiring throught the intake, then something is not right. Out of time, crossed plug wire, injector nozzle in the wrong cylinder, etc. Something is not right since it did not do it prior to the repairs.

[Whisper6691]

All been checked all nozzles are in proper holes retook timing cover back off, gears are meshed perfectly. All wires are in proper location. Items changed during work were as follows, Crank position sensor, purge selonoid, cap, rotor, wires, all hoses, and the belt. I realize it sounds like a timing issue and after exhaustive research and many trials of restabing the distributer and makeing sure all is lined up it continues to do the same thing.

[brokenblazer]

Ive a 2001 blazer, and the brakes lock up while driving, all calipers/pads are new, as is the abs controler, brakelines, master cylinder. what can the problem be??? After the car sits for a while all work fine, but after a few miles you can feel the pedal get hard and the car stops by itsself.

[carriedi]

this is going to need to be checked out where you can get the tires off the ground when it is locking up. once the brakes start to lock up you need to find out which wheels are locked. is it all the wheels? is it just the front? is it just one wheel. that will tell you what you need to look for.

when you find the wheel that locks up (any wheel that is locked up) release the bleeder screw and see if there is a build up of brake fluid pressure in that wheel. If brake fluid shoots out under pressure tighten the bleeder screw back up and see if the wheel is freed up now. If only the one wheel was locked up you might have a bad brake hose. If both wheels (like both front were locked up) are now free wheeling then you're going to need to check the ABS unit, the combination valve and the master cylinder. Drive the vehicle until the brakes start to lock up again and then release the brake line at the master for the wheels that are locked up. then at the combination valve, then at the abs unit to see which place there is the pressure build up holding the brakes.

you could have a problem with your booster, the master, the combination valve, the abs unit, the brake hoses or individual brake units, calipers or wheel cylinders. you're going to have to pinpoint the problem and follow it back from there

[brokenblazer]

thanks for the info , nice to have a format to follow

[raneger]

Air bubbles, leaky seals, and oil on the brakes would cause no braking, and i doubt there is something in the pads, a bad caliper could be it.