1999 chevy truck VSS code and shifting problem

[bigfig]

First time on site so let me see if I know as much asi think -well I have seen qustions close to mine.problem is with a 4L60E (16-bolt pan) it is in a 1999k-1500 4by4 with a 5.7L or 350CI whatever you want to call it. I scaned it and got a po500 & 501.

I think it been a while back anyway it said it was the VSS and the other code said low input to the VSS- vehicle speed sensor.so now the coupe'degra I bought the trk late 04 and got lots of maint recp 1 for a new trans & transfercs so now the symtoms with eng warm or not put in dr start rolling & no spdomitr (then I can tell it will only dr in 1st &2nd)so I go 1 mile or 15 just easeing along then shut it off maybe 5or30 min start it up put in drive move40ft spdomitr starts working trk shifts fine so what is it ?

I've been told just the vss to the whole trans bad (also can anyone tell me where the vss is located at on that trans or case) been told 25 diff places on that to thank you for the info!

[carriedi]

I wish I could tell you it's a pinpoint item. But, cars don't work like that any more. Your transmission is probably NOT your problem. There is a gear in the trans-system that turns the VSS sensor. the vss sensor sends the signal to the instrument cluster. the instrument cluster then sends the signal to the ecm. You could have a bad sensor, a bad cluster or a bad ecm. (Not to mention wiring) You will need to have a scanner and a graphing dvom or a lab scope. you have to look at the signal coming out of the speed sensor and watch the scanner to see if the vss is not sending the signal or it is sending a signal but the ecm is not getting it. The instrument cluster may be dropping the signal.

[Y2kvitual]

My Chevy Colorado has a metal on metal sound when starting. I've changed 2 starters in a year time. The one that came with it and the one I placed in it. Am on another one now. The bendix same to keep failing in the starters like it's getting grind. Now it's getting louder again and am afraid I might have to change again but this time I want to stop this from happening anymore if need be. Can you help me.

[Y2kvitual]

My windshield wipers for some reason won't cut off. Before they stayed on while driving. I can control the speed but just won't shut off. Now they only cut off when the vehicle is in gear. If it's in park or nuetral the wipers activate. Am was really thinking I might have a ground issue but not sure. Can you assist as I like things to work properly.

[carriedi]

maybe the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate are damaged

[carriedi]

what year and engine do you have

[carriedi]

as you know, most systems that were controlled with a simple switch before are now controlled by a computer. This is no exception. Your wiper switch does not go directly to your wiper motor. It goes to the body control module. Then the body control module sends the signal to the wiper relays. You will need to check the power going to the relays to see if a relay is sticking or if the body control module if not turning off the relay.

[Y2kvitual]

Really was hoping not that cause getting to it isn't a simple job. I guess am going to have to prepare myself to get a flywheel and a starter next time it happen to fix once and for all. Cause normally it would cause the bendix in the starter would go and have to be replaced. Is there a way I can check to confirm before having to drop it to change the fly.

[carriedi]

you can look at the teeth on the fly wheel/flex plate when you take the starter out. look at the teeth you can see through the starter hole. use a socket on the crank bolt to turn the engine around to see all the teeth.

[Georgieboy97]

I have a 4l80e in a P30 chassis. (Motorhome) I have changed the rear seal, dropped the pan and put in a new filter and oil.
I went on a trip with my car trailer attached. Everything worked fine,(overdrive, cruise shift points). After parking it for a few days , on level ground
the trans has a slow leak at the rear. This unit also has a drum brake on it for parking. The inside of the brake is dry except for a small amount of oil at the bottom.
I'm stumped. Any suggestions. Thank you.

[carriedi]

ok, I am hearing about what you did but I don't have any idea about why you did it. Did you have a leak before? is that why you changed those parts?

If you notice a small leak after it has been sitting for a while, where does it look like it is coming from? You may have to clean everything underneath and let it sit and see where the leak originates from. When you did the rear seal, how did the surface of the metal yoke look and feel? Did it have a worn area where the old seal rubbed on it? You may need to replace the yoke on the drive shaft or put a speedi-sleeve over the worn area to give it a smooth contact area.