1993 Camaro Z28 no start or crank issue

[sheafferd]

I have a 2005 chevy malibu classic 2.2 eogotec 53,000 miles just started tapping check with GM Mecanic and was told most likely stuck lifter as it was back by power stering pump. Just shut off. wont restart. any help please.

[carriedi]

sorry but I don't know how to help you. I don't have your car here to look at and you haven't given me any information I can use to try to figure it out.

it died while you were driving it? turns over but won't start? doesn't turn over? turns over and starts but then stalls out right away? if the engine is cranking over does it seem normal? not too fast, not too slow, steady or does it miss a cylinder while cranking?

do you have gas in the tank? did you check to make sure there is oil in the crankcase? is the fuel pump working? do you have spark? do you have injector pulse?

some things to check

[roofer01]

I have a1994 Camaro z28 and driver side power window switch is broken it is a single switch not double cant find one

[carriedi]

if you have a single switch, you should be able to use the single switch same as the passenger door. NAPA right side power window switch #PA740 They don't show the switch in any of their stores but they show 12 from their supplier in Disputanta, VA. You might have to pay for shipping.

did a search for the part number and came up with:



is this what you are looking for? right side switch, single. Is it the same as your left side switch?

[jesseb342]

I'm having a strange issue with my front blower. All was working fine, then one morning I get in and the front blower is completely dead. I checked the fuses and all was good there. The rear heat still works fine so at least there's still some heat in the van. Nothing for about three weeks, then one day I get in and the blower works again. It lasted for about three weeks until it stopped again. Another two weeks of nothing then it started working for a few days. Now it's back to not working. I know this has to be some kind of electrical problem. Any ideas?

[carriedi]

the power and ground for the front blower motor come from the blower resistor. Next time the blower isn't working unplug the blower motor and see if you have power and ground. Sometimes you can tap on the bottom of the fan housing and see if the motor is stuck. If it turns on when you tap on it you should get a new blower.

Power for the blower comes through three fuses in the under hood fuse box. FRT BLWR HI (fuse 34 40A), FRT/BLWR (fuse 27 25A) and HVAC/RPA/CRUISE (fuse 17 10A) Don't think it will be a fuse because if they are bad they won't go back to working unless someone have replaced a fuse with a circuit breaker.

you need to look at the wires to the resistor and check for the signal from the controls to the resistor. Yellow for speed 1. Tan for speed 2. Light blue for speed 3. Purple for speed 4. Orange for speed 5. Check the circuit by unplugging the resistor and see if the wires from the controller are sending the signal to the resistor. other wires to the resistor are: Red -power out of the resistor to the blower, Black - ground for the resistor and the blower, Red sand black power all the time from the blower high fuse.

that's where you start you checking at.

[Icepitt2]

I've had this Camaro for about 2 years now The first year and a half I drove it everyday.
Then I had a TV cable issue where it wouldn't shift out of first gear and burnt up my 700R4 transmission so I'll rebuilt it but now I've got a no start or crank issue I turn the key and nothing I've already bypassed the vats security system by using the chip in my key I'm tying it into the wires under the dash that go to the security system. Starter is good I've checked it but it had a viper alarm system installed before I purchased it and it never worked right so I've went ahead and unhooked it and spliced the wires that it was hooked to back to factory the best I could I've got a Gray and black wire that I have no idea what it ties into and now my automatic door locks on the passenger side do not work and my interior lights are staying on all the time and my RAP doesn't seem to be functioning right either but still no start issue no crank I think I'm going to try to bypass the theft relay that is by the hatch button on the passenger side dash but I don't know what wires to hook together to bypass that any help would be awesome I love to get this thing back on the road

[carriedi]

normally, you should look at you starter relay operation.

the starter enable relay, in you instrument panel fuse box, gets power from the ignition switch on the c1 and c2 pins. a1 pin grounds through the pass-key module and the a2 pin goes through to the starter solenoid. Wire (a1) from the starter relay to pass-key is yellow and black. Verify that you are getting the ground signal on that wire. (is the security light on?) If no ground then pass-key not sending ground to allow the relay to connect circuit to starter. If you have a good ground the is the relay clicking when you move the ignition switch to start? If the relay is clicking in start then look downstream from there. Is the car in park or neutral to complete the circuit through there? (or clutch switch if manual trans) (a2 from relay to neutral safety is a dark green wire)

the purple wire that goes to the starter is the power from the starter relay to the solenoid. Are you getting power on that wire?

what have you checked to follow the starting circuit so far? Is the ignition switch getting power from the battery? Is the power going out from the ignition switch to the starter relay? Is the relay good? Is the relay getting the ground from the pass-key? Is the relay sending power out to the neutral safety? Is the power getting to the starter? Is the starter working?