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I changed the fuelpump and it started, but when i replaced the tank into the car it wouldn't start, only cranks... fuelpump is coming on and is reading 47psi as specified at autozone... but will not start. Theft system light is NOT flashing no check engine light... no kinked fuel lines and all good electrical connections. what is my problem?


   
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Location: Oregon
have you checked for spark and injector pulse while cranking?


   
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It started once i rev to 3000rpm it was smootth even idle back down and stayed smooth.... i put the tank back in the car and it wouldnt start back up... i even checked for bad connection and kinks in the fuel lines... everything looks good


   
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Location: Oregon
that's kind of strange. if the car ran with the fuel tank down and then you bolt it up but you still get 47 psi from the pump, there's nothing else a fuel pump does. If you are getting power to the pump and the pump pressurizes the fuel rail to 47 psi that's it. it's working. you could release the rail pressure and cycle the key to verify that you have full pressure again but if it cycles up to spec it shouldn't be a fuel pump problem. Have you checked all the wiring around the tank to make sure no wires are pinched anywhere? or tried lowering the tank back down again to see it starts then?

have you checked to see if any fuses are blown?

Verify that you have ignition spark and injector pulse while cranking. that should be the next piece of the puzzle to look at. if you don't have injector pulse but do have spark I would look at the security system even if the light does not come on. if you have no spark and no injector pulse I would look at the crank sensor, pcm or a blown fuse


   
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What are yalls thoughts on the idle air control valve? Or maybe the throttle position sensor?


   
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Location: Oregon
if you want to see what your iac or tps are doing you should hook up a scanner and see what they are telling the computer. those things don't usually cause a no start. If the tps was reading full throttle it would be in clear flood mode but usually tps go out in low readings not high. (but anything is possible. The iac could be bypassed by using the throttle with you foot to open it a little while cranking in case it was stuck closed.

have you verified spark and injector pulse yet?


   
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Haven't worked on it for a couple days I've been told by several different people to try the crank pos sensor


   
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Ok so it is getting spark on the plugs.... as i can't get to the fuel injectors without removing the upper intake, how would i check the injectors?


   
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Location: Oregon
all of the injectors have a pink wire and another color wire. the pink wire should be power key on from the F/P INJR fuse (15a)
yellow and black #6
black and white #5
light blue and black #4
pink and black #3
light green and black #2
black #1
are the computer ground wires to the injectors. if you are unable to check it at the injector connector follow the wire harness back to where there is a big connector that does them all.

you could check the crank position sensor to see if it is working before you replace it. or buy it and see if it cures the problem. But If it's getting spark to the plugs that would tell me that the crank sensor is sending a signal to the ignition module.


   
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