Grand Am rough idle

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Guest

Shuts off when at normal temp

Unread post by Guest » Fri May 15, 2020 1:10 pm

My 92 Pontiac sunbird 3.1 starts up but when at normal temp it shuts off and won't start untill it's cold again

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carriedi
Posts: 2566
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:42 pm

Re: Shuts off when at normal temp

Unread post by carriedi » Fri May 15, 2020 7:16 pm

sounds like the time where the computer is supposed to take over (normal operating temp.) it doesn't have some parameter it's looking for. You need to have a graphable scanner hooked up to your vehicle and see what happens when it reaches normal temp.

check to see if your engine temp is -40F. if the temp sensor is open it will go to -40f

Guest

Grand Am rough idle

Unread post by Guest » Wed Sep 16, 2020 11:46 am

When I start it up there is a quite slow knocking sound during idle (not very loud). When I shift into drive it knocks and shifts hard into drive. When the car has warmed up and when I am coasting at an average of 40 MPH the RPMs will jump down by about 200 (a small amount) and immediately jump back up. I feel a small and faint jolt in the car when this happens. Any ideas?

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carriedi
Posts: 2566
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:42 pm

Re: Grand Am rough idle

Unread post by carriedi » Sat Sep 19, 2020 4:43 am

you really need to drive with a scanner on the vehicle. You need to see if the trans is slipping or shifting gears. If you are moving and s steady speed but your rpm changes then the engine reved up without changing speed. That's something inn the drive chain changing.

Knocking sound, well, that's something that someone needs to hear. I would suggest taking it to a local shop and ask if they can come out and listen to the noise. So many things is could be without knowing what it sounds like or where it might be coming from.

the knocking and the hard shifts may or may not be related. What about the title of this post? Does it have a rough Idle too? Is the check engine light on?

Guest

02 grand prix gtp

Unread post by Guest » Sat Oct 03, 2020 9:02 pm

02 grand prix gtp boost gauge is showing boost at idle and its active with my cruise set on 60 it will surge some and some times it cuts off but starts back up I've replaced crankshaft sensor, mass air flow sensor, evap purge solenoid,fuel pump , etc. This has gotten expensive need help

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carriedi
Posts: 2566
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:42 pm

Re: 02 grand prix gtp

Unread post by carriedi » Mon Oct 05, 2020 4:46 am

boost control solenoid is controlled by the PCM. If you have boost at idle I would be checking the vacuum lines. Check the bypass valve actuator and the bypass valve for sticking or just stuck. Of a bad boost control solenoid.

to check the system for operation you will need a vacuum gauge and a scanner that can communicate with the PCM and you can tell the PCM to open and close the vacuum to the system. A vacuum pump would also help so you can apply vacuum and see if you can make the bypass valve actuator retract.

Have you hooked up a scanner to see what the PCM is doing? Do you have any codes stored in memory? If you do what are the code numbers?

why did you replace all those parts? are you having other problems other than just the boost gauge showing boost at the wrong times?

Guest

L67

Unread post by Guest » Wed May 12, 2021 11:06 pm

The clip on the fuel rail on my 2002 Pontiac Bonneville ssei L87 needs replaced. Can't find a name for this part and it's pouring gas out. Help

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carriedi
Posts: 2566
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:42 pm

Re: L67

Unread post by carriedi » Thu May 13, 2021 2:25 am

most of the time you can go to napa, auto zone or another auto parts place and see about getting a fuel line connector repair kit.

Not sure what you are talking about when you say clip. Do you mean the fuel line connector that is on the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail? Does your fuel rail use two different sizes for the inlet and the outlet parts of the fuel rail? if it is the connector for the fuel rail is only one leaking? The inlet connector or the outlet connector?

if you removed the connectors and then it started leaking after you reconnected them, the O rings may have come out. Disconnect the leaking one and look inside the connector. There should be an O ring or a couple O rings and maybe a nylon washer, and then the clip that locks the connector to the fuel rail. If you haven't moved the vehicle around you might be able to look around where the area where you disconnected the connector and see if you can find the parts that may have come out of the connector and just clean them off and reconnect them.

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