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I'm checking out a friends, Aunts 1998 Buick regal car for him. With that said the symptoms, it ran its last trip to McDonalds perfect, came out to go home and it didn't start. Several hours later it started and drove home only to die in the driveway @ home. Removed fuel filter and black crap came out, so it was replaced with a new filter. the car started and ran ~ 5 minutes then died and wouldn't start. That is where I came in, trailered the car to my shop, Checked fuel pressure and had ~ 42 psi. Replaced the Fuel pump anyway (practice) new pump 43psi, still no start. Checked the injector wiring on the passenger side that could removed without removing the plenum. Test showed firing at the infector plug. (forgot to mention had good spark @ plugs) went to the injector beside the oil fill cap unplugged the injector and hooked up the noid to verify current @ that injector. It does have current going to it, the car cranked up of course skipping, but it continued to run. unplugged the noid and connected plug to injector and the engine died immediately. we did this several times with the same result. Will replacing this injector solve this problem? It really makes no since to me how this 1 injector can kill all of the other ones. Somebody please Email me with the fix for this car. thanks Steve (bracketshark)


   
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Location: Oregon
Yes, replacing that injector will probably fix your problem. All the injectors use the same source for battery+. the computer sends the ground signal to fire the injector. If you have a shorted injector it will short the power to ground so all the other injectors won't fire. If you have a multi-meter test the resistance of the three injectors you can get to easily. They should be 11.4-12.6 ohms. If you get an injector that goes down to like 3-4 ohms or so it will rob the power from from the whole system

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNc5fTfa99w


   
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I have a 97 buick lesabre limited and one of my manifold bolts broke off and i dont want to take off the manifold. how else do i get the broken bolt out to put a new bolt in.


   
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without some specialized skill and tools I don't see how you could remove a broken manifold bolt without removing the manifold. Did the head just pop off the bolt or did it break flush with the head? If it broke flush with the head, which is the usual way, you will probably have to remove the manifold (hopefully without breaking more bolts as you remove it)


   
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Do you add to the radiator or to the reservoir tank? For a 1995 Buick regal custom 3.8liter?


   
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if everything is working correctly, you would add it to the reservoir. If the engine is cold, and it has a radiator cap, you verify that the radiator is full to the very top also. this way you can see if the radiator cap is working.


   
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Can u tell me where the fan sensor is i changed the sensor behind the ac compressor on the tube. But still runs hot fan sensor is only thing left.


   
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actually, there are a lot of other things that could be the problem.

how high does your gauge go to let you know it's getting too hot?

you should use a scanner and look at the temp sensor when the engine is running warm. See if the digital temp matches the gauge. Watch the temp as it gets around 210 to 220 degrees F. The scanner should also have a pid for fan request. There should be a pid for low speed fan and another for high speed fan. If you ten\mp gets up to 235F and there is still no fan (the low and high should have come on by then) see if the computer is trying to turn them on. If it does say fan request on and the fans aren't on check the fan relays and check the fan fuses. if all those things check out good then the fan motor may be the problem

oh, sorry, btw the coolant temp. sensor... what year, model and engine do you need the information for?


   
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1991 Buick Regal Custom orders 3800 6cyl 3.8l. Must specify it is a phase 1 GM 3800 engine


   
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