|2- Intake rods are in this
|1- Exhaust rods are in
what is the order for the back side.
Exhaust are longer intakes are shorter similar order as front.
will you loose lifter prime when relieving pressure by removing push tubes.
the heads on these motors are the same front to back the order of the push rods is just
reversed. I put two rear heads on the same engine...works just fine.
Is this the diagram for push rods? Trying to figure out. How they go on.
3.1 v6 push rod order what order front and back
thanks for the info. It helped allot.
need the location for the egr valve.
|See this link for 3400 engine sensor location pictures.
I'm doing this job and it is a pain
I just completed this job, and after assembly car worked and ran fine. Made a
test drive of 3-5 miles, Axel from stop as well as while moving. Drove car back
home, idled for a few means, then drove a longer distance. After maybe 5
miles, stopped at a red light, and noticed what sounded like valves tapping,
then upon pressing the gas to accelerate, car seemed to lose power and
'check engine' light started blinking. Is it possible the rocker arm bolts could
have been improperly torqued? I do know that initially one of them was
overtightened due to being told to use 115 FOOT lbs (not actually tightened
that far, but def more than the correct spec) before finding the correct spec
|Yes, this sounds like at least one of the rocker studs has
pulled its treads out of the cylinder head. This is causing
a misfire, thus the blinking check engine light. I would
suspect it is the one or more that were improperly
torqued. There is a repair kit to fix this. It comes with a
drill, tap and dye, and insert.
I just completed the intake gaskets on our 99 Gr Am, and it's a pain!! I think these motors are
junk, having replaced the gaskets for the third time. The intake wasn't warped, thank God. We
will never buy another vehicle with this motor in it.
This is great information. Thank you.
I'm working on a 3.4l but when i tighten the rockers i have no compression and i have push tube
in the order they should be can my lifters be bad this car set for awhile
|Sitting for a long time will absolutely cause the lifters to
be very hard to pump up. Either they will need to be
replaced, or you can run the engine for a while to see if
they will. Running too long though can cause other
okay i have a 88 2.8 Camaro just installed pushrods, whats the sequence in tightening those for
the passenger side only...and the torque specs?
its very simple on the push rod location on these 3.1 and 3.4.....Always put the long push rods
under the intake gasket all the short ones go over it...cant get that wrong.
When u open a valve cover to a 3.1 v6 on an olds cutlass? Were the rocker arms supposed to
|Well, now they should be loose. If they are the rocker
arm studs may have pulled the threads out of the
cylinder head. If that happened you would need to drill
tap and using Helli-Coil to repair.
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Be careful not to drop injector bolts in the intake when putting the injectors back on.
|Straight from General Motors - Torque all lower intake
bolts to 62in. Lbs. on the first pass. Then torque the
longer (middle) bolts to 115in. Lbs. Then torque the
shorter (outside) bolts to 18ft. Lbs. The upper intake
manifold bolts all get tightened to 18ft. Lbs. Also, you
should use new lower intake manifold bolts when doing a
repair. Make sure the bolt hole threads are clean and
free of debris. Hope this helps!
When you torque the lower intake (1999 Alero 3.4l v6) you said 115in lbs on long bolts and 18ft.
Lbs on the short is that the four short ones on each of the corners on the lower. The Autozone
website says(sometimes they are wrong on things I have found before so I aways check) lower
intake 115in. Lbs and on upper 18ft. Lbs nothing about the four short bolts on the
corners(where the leaks for the coolant usually happen). The Haynes manual states lower intake
62in. Lbs first pass and then 115in. Lbs on final tightening don't know about upper intake.
When torquing the rocker bolts to spec on a 3.1, do the lifters need to be on the decompression
|No, it's not like the Chevy V8 engine. It does not matter
where the cam, lifters etc are.
Had a rattle noise in my 3.4l engine, misfiring on #4 cylinder, removed the valve cover found that
the treads are stripped out of the head, do you think a Hellicoil will be strong enough to repair.
|Yes, a thread repair kit will do the trick and will actually
be stronger than the factory setup. Just make sure when
you drill and tap for the Helicoil, that is it absolutely
straight with the original hole. You don't to be off any
when dealing with a rocker arm and valve train
components. Use some red Loctite on the threads of the
insert before you screw it into place.
WELL I'M WORK ON (PUTTING ALL NEW PARS IN NOW ) LIFTERS / RODS / ROCKER ARMS.
WHAT'S BEST TO USE ON BOLTS THREADS ( GOING TO USE LIGHT TIGHT RED/BLUE).
INSTEAD OF PIPE SEALANT. MY NEW BOOK DIDN'T LIST ROCKER ARM TORQUE SPECS SO
I AM HERE ....ETC. I WAS A MECHANIC YRS AGO . IT APPEARS AFTER READING ON THIS
SIGHT PAGE I'LL NEED TO CHANGE ALL THE LOWER INTAKE BOLTS ( ? ) .2003 AZTEC 3.4
VEC HAS 80,000 MILES .ON IT .A FEW YRS AGO TRANS COOLER LEAK INSIDE. RADIATOR .
SO I CUT LINES / PLUG. & PUT EXTERNAL TRANS COOLER ON FRONT .SHORT
REASON FOR CHANGING FOR CHANGING VERY PRICEY $90.00 @ Auto Zone FEL-PRO of
course FLOYD C HOW DO WE GET A RESULTS / RESPONSE. I am a crippled now for almost
two YRS. WORK injury. Applied for disability ....Awaiting yet ....Not able 2 WRK.I WAS A SCHOOL
BUSS DRIVE ( SPECIAL NEEDS KIDS ) .7.5 YRS. I LOVED IT ....
INTAKES GASKETS NOW.
What are the torque specs for the rocker arm bolts on a 3.1 V6 Chevy Lumina engine?
while replacing my push rods I mistakenly placed an exhaust rods in an intake rods place.. I
noticed while tightening (with 3/8' ratchet)A distinct noise and bent the push rod. IS there a way
to know if I bent the valve or cracked the piston without removing the head again?
|If you did not start the vehicle, you're probably ok and
just bent the push rod. I would install a new correct size
push rod, and after getting everything tightened back
down, turn the motor over by hand to make sure there is
nothing damaged and no interference.
1999 Grand Am 3.4 liter. Replaced head gaskets and put engine back together it is popping
threw exhaust i have checked and rechecked firing order and it is correct i think possibly a push
rod or two inst right however i turned the engine over manually before i started and there want
any resistance what is going on I'm stumped please help.
You have at least 1 push rod not in the right spot- exhaust in intake, etc.
IF All The Push Rods Are In Their Proper Place And Is Torqued To Proper Spec. When U Take
Turn The Crank Over, Shouldn't I BE ABLE TO TURN OVER THE CRANK WITH MY RATCHET in
A 360 DEGREES CONSTANTLY ? WITHOUT IT JUST GOING 75% AROUND AND STOPPING !
SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT ! DO THE INTAKE ROCKER AND THE EXHAUST ROCKER PUSH
RODS TAKE 2 DIFFERENT TORQUE ?
Yes, you should be able to go all the way around. Gets stiffer at spots depending on if valves
are closed on compression stroke at certain points. Torque is the same. See above.
I just install a rebuilt head and when I tighten down the #3 an #5 on the 3.4 I can see the intake
valve open which gives me no compression when I check it with air. We don't know why so their
sending me another head for my old head when put back on doesn't open the valve the
Pushrods are correct the torque is proper an ideas why?
|Some of the valves opening when you tighten down the
rockers is normal. Which ones that open depends on the
position of the camshaft. The part that does not make
sense is that they did not do this after re-installing the
old cylinder head.
Problem started with a sudden loss of power, rough idle, and blinking check engine light. Scan
showed cyl#6 misfire and no compression on cyl#6. Pulled valve cover and found #6 intake
rocker laying on top the head. Rocker bolt pulled out of the head. Helli coiled it and reinstalled
rocker and push rod. Tested and still no compression. Did notice that the valve spring
compressed 1/16th to 1/8th on torquing the bolt. Any ideas. I did run the motor for 10-15
minutes after loss of power to get home.
No compression on 3.4 V6 Aztec, replaced one cylinder head only but did remove push rods etc
from both to replace gaskets, also turned the engine over without push rods good compression,
left overnight still no compression any one have any ideas I am stumped. Lifters?
|Sound like you have the push rods in the wrong order.
Check them again using picture above.
I cant seem to get to the valve cover bolts under the alternator. I moved it and I still cant reach it.
Can somebody help me with this 1999 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4 engine.
I did the same thing that an earlier poster did in that I torqued the push rod bolt to 124 FOOT
lbs. stripping the cylinder head. You commented saying that there was a repair kit to fix this???
Where could I find this repair kit? Thanks
|The thread repair kit can be found at any local parts store.
On top, above the picture it says 124 and 115 in. lbs.????? Is that supposed to be ft. Lbs. i can't
afford any mistakes.
|It is inch lbs. Foot pounds would be extremely tight for
those numbers. That is more like cylinder head gasket
i replaced the head gaskets on a 3100 and afterwards its idling high... What should i look for?