My car radio switched 12+ wire: yellow is only putting out 6.5-7 volts when I turn it up it goes down to 5v. When this happens my radio freaks out, stops playing, and makes a high pitched squeel. I turn my car off and the voltage stays the same and keeps making the high pitched squeel even with no actual power goin to the radio. When I turn car back on it makes an even higher pitched squeel and then goes back to kinda normal. By that I mean the 6.5-7 volts. It will keep doing this every time I turn my radio up to listening volume. Is there any way to get the wire back to 12v or a way to splice power onto the yellow wire from another wire? Like the orange constant? Please help
pretty sure, 1962 had no chime module. 1962 is before the Beatles were on Ed Sullivan. back when cars were just mechanical machines. 62 should have been the last year they used a generator. In 63 they went to an alternator.
on later models the chime could be for many things. most would have a corresponding light, was the fuel level low? sloshing fuel in a low tank may set off the warning but settling back down would turn off the light.
Where is the ESC module on a 93 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?
Is your security light on? if the security light is on or flashing the pcm may be disabling the injector pulse.
If you have measured the fuel pressure and you are within specs and you know you have good spark, you need to check your injector pulse. Unplug one of the injectors from the wire harness. use a test light between the two wires in the injector wire harness connector and crank the engine over. The light should blink as the engine is cranked over. It won't blink very fast because you are only cranking the engine so the rpm's are low but you should see if the signal is opening the injector or not.
both the cam and crank sensor send their signals to the ignition control module. The ignition module fires the coils. but the injector signal goes to the PCM and the PCM fires the injectors. The pink wire to the injectors is power from Injector fuse (10A) in the right side dash fuse panel.
the injectors are grounded by the pcm to open the injector.
#1 black wire
#2 light green and black
#3 pink and black
#4 light blue and black
#5 black and white
#6 yellow and black
I have a 2000 automobile intrigued in it want start but i took my battery to auto zone to charge it up in i did in i put back in the car in it still not starting but everything else work
I have a 1990 olds delta 88 , and the car ran perfect before replacing the harmonic balancer, Now it won't start, cranks just fine.
I have a 1995 oldsmobile aurora with a full tank of gas it will crank up but when I press the gas peddle it sputters and then cuts off what could cause this to happen?
Hello, I am looking for some direction and advice so I can surprise my husband with some parts for his 1980 Cutlass Supreme...I have some homework to do and had a few questions if ya'll could help me out.
1. when filtering on sites sometimes is asks if the car is Base or Brougham. How do I find this out.
What I want to get him is struts and shocks. What are some suggestions of what will work on his car and price ranges..I want to get some thing he will be happy with but I am also not rolling in cash....Any help would be much appreciated.
The car won't start, battery, alternator, starter are all fine. Obviously a computer issue, but I am trying to isolate what started it and what will fix it before I sink a whole bunch of money into it.
Over the past six months, there are many times when the car will not respond at all to starting it, and then after a few minutes will start up. A few have mentioned changing the ignition switch because the wires are prone to break or wear down and lose connection. They said this could cause the problem I am having. Does anyone agree and think that this could ultimately have affected the entire computer system. Now the care won't start at all and I am getting a clicking seemingly coming from right behind the glove compartment.
I have an 1999 Oldsmobile 88. I know I need a new ignition switch. There are two options. How may I figure if I need the one with the floor console or without? Is there any way or anywhere I can look to figure it out?
My 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora has had the battery disconnected due to a repair that was needed. Since then the A/C will only blow out of the defrosters. It is still cold but will not blow at you on any other settings. The battery was disconnected when worked on. Since it is electrical I think it needed to be re-calibrated and wasn't. What is the problem and where is the location of the problem, and what part is needed if any.
Please help me with this matter.
Thank You for your assistance
P.S. The engine is a 3.5 v-6 Cadillac engine
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
I have been having problems with my car starting but usually will go after a couple of tries but resets the clock. Tried taking it in to a repair shop but it wouldn't act up at there. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all. There was no clicking noise when I tried to start it. It was just silent almost seemed like a toy car. I haven't been able to start it since. The battery is fairly new about a year to year and half old and was tested when the problems first started. I was told it was still good. I have no idea what could be wrong other than it appears to be something with the battery connections since it was resetting the clock when it wouldn't start. Any ideas?
The driver side brake lights on my 1990 olds cutlass supreme don't work but the passenger side does, i have changed the bulbs but still no brake lights but i do have tail lights.
1987 olds Cutlass v8
My steering column broke while driving. The car died and I had to get it towed. After the repair it has power to the dash lights turn signals wipers radio, but the car won't start. When I put the key in the start position there's no noise no crank. I put a test light on all fuses (good) the fuseable link to the starter (good) and on the ignition switch. When on the switch the test light dims when I turn the key. Does anyone know if I'm missing something? At the end of my rope here. Thanks.
Does anyone have a diagram or information
On installing the power steering hose/line assembly
In the 1990 olds eighty eight royale?
Any info or help would would appreciated!
This is a brand new part I'm attempting to
1990 Oldsmobile Regency Brougham 98
The fan on my A/c & heater will stop blowing or start blowing when I hit a bump or turn a corner. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
Need to know where fan sensor is located does not come on till car is 230 and hot 96 olds 4.0L engine.
03 Olds Alero. Will a scanner tool pick up bcm codes if the check engine light is not on.
what are the known fixes for the GMC vacuum pressure problem as it relates to the ignition system
for a 98 olds intrigue v6? (or relates to any other problem)
My son recently took out the old cassette player out of his 1996 Sierra Oldsmobile and put in a CD player. Now the car won't start and the emergency brake light comes on also the brake pedal is hard to push down on car just won't start. Was working okay until he put the CD player in. Any ideas please?
How do you find and change air filter (I need to know how to get it open) on 1999 oldmoble silhouette where is it located on engine need help thanks?
How do I check if my body control module is bad in an 03 olds alero.
What would be the cost for diagnostic to determine all that is wrong with my car?
I know electrical but am wondering after I get going repairing where does it stop? lol
thanks for your help and have a blessed day. )
I have a 03 oldsmobile alero. I had the fuel pump replaced & was told it went out again, I see lots of people saying it might be the anti-theft system shutting it down. How can I do 2 fix this, or bypass the system? Fuel pump relay seems to be fine.
I have an 02 silhouette. I have changed the fuel pump , filter anf relay and it still wont turn over. Yes its getting fuel we did the fuel pressure test. Can someone please help me.
I read in my car manual that it is not a good thing to wrap the electrical on my car using electrical tape. Do you know the effects that would have on car. There is a lot of tape on a lot of my wiring and
I have a wiring problem that I am trying to solve. I am going to replace the ignition module intake wiring pony tail so I was wondering about the rest of my wiring? (thanks)
98 olds intrigue V6 engine. I am doing the ponytail because when the car quits then after I play with the wires sometimes just straightening them then the car restarts. But I think I have another problem also because the RMP's go crazy and the car stops again. I can keep it going longer if I keep my foot on the brake and the gas at the same time keeping the rpm's up. I read that the car does not like this and one time I heard a noise that sounded like the alternator but I heard that just one time and none later. appreciate your help, have a blessed day...:) I was thinking about giving the keys to GMC,lol:( but I don't want to have to do that)
on an oldsmobile alero '03, where is the fuel filter.
The part that mounts on top of the throttle body (evap emissions purge harness gm calls it). it has three vac connections to the throttle body and two actual vac lines going out. Do you know of anywhere it can be found or is there a way to fix it when it has hairline cracks on it? Hoping.
I am replacing my throttle position sensor, and I need to know the procedure to adjust it along with the voltage reading. I was told 0.38-0.42 volts with the throttle valve closed, but not sure if that information is correct.
Engine number 2 (GM3800 Series II) - lasted about two years.
Driving to work yesterday, felt like it was down on power, no noises. Pushed it a bit, thinking it may be a clogged injector. It would shift down, RPM to 5000, but it would not have the same power as usual.
Eventually made it home, going up the hill there was a new sound, like a burst of air escaping from the cylinder head. That stopped, and this is how it sounds now.
I have done the following, what should I do next?
1. Compression Test - the compression numbers are 175 up to 190...
2. Removed upper and lower intake.
Harmonic balancer feels tight...not sure how to test it. Note: There was a power loss preceding this event, compression was good and spark in all six cylinders. The noise was significantly loader at cylinder 6, placed the stethoscope on the rocker bolt....
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I have a 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale and I've changed the following trying to get the car to start: starter, crankshaft sensor, ignition coil pack, ICM, fuel pump. Then noticed constant, not blinking, SECURITY LIGHT. Well after changing the ignition switch and getting a new key made...we thought everything was good. I had to remove the key from the ignition switch for 30 seconds. Then tried to start it again, but The car turned over for about 2 seconds... Then would not start. It's getting fuel but no spark. Help.
my 1994 olds cutless ciera over flow starts to boil after driving it i am trying to figure it out maybe it is the thermostat, fan not working how does one test it, but does anyone know why it does not do it all the time.
subject over flow boiling.
I have a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue with a 3800 Series 2 engine, recently it died while attempting to get on the interstate. It had been driving semi okay before getting on the on ramp. Since the top end gasket repair on the engine the rpm needle would jump without the rpms actually revving while driving and the rpms do fluctuate a little while stopped (no more than 500rpms). Now my car starts and will rev up just fine in park, however when you put it in drive and attempt to move it acts like it is out of gas. (Sputters and dies while electronics stay on.) Somebody help??
Why when I put the turn signal lights either way, on my Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme the ABS light started to blink too? :shock: By the way the ABS light is on.
I have a 96 Olds Ciera, with the 3.1 lt V6. Today while sitting in line for lunch, the car started to make a sigh/cough noise, when trying to accelerate out of the line, the car bogged down, as if it wasn't getting fuel. This has happened before and if I let the car sit for a few minutes, it will crank back up and drive without issue. This time, after letting the car sit for about a half hour, it still wouldn't start. I left the car, came back after work, it started right up without any problem. I was able to drive for maybe a half a mile before the car shut off completely. The car turns over like it wants to start, but won't.
I've checked for spark, all coils are getting spark, you can smell the fuel being dumped but not burned off. I can almost guarantee that when I go out in the morning the car will start. My question is, what could be causing the stalling and failure to restart. I've been told two possible issues, one, the EGR valve blocked. Secondly an issue with the ignition coil mount. I do have a check engine light on, but it was referring to a system purge during non-purge something another.
The engine stalls while driving. It don't give any warning, it just quits. But it will start right back up. Then it'll run a while then it will do it again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The engine stalls while driving. It don't give any warning, it just quits. But it will start right back up. Then it'll run a while then it will do it again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
My son and I are trying to locate the fuse link on his 1998 OLDS 88 with a V6 engine. Can someone either send directions or better yet, photo's or a video link so we can see where it is at. THANKS DSLJOHN
Ok so I have a 2001 Oldsmobile alero. Tuesday I was driving and all of the dash lights and gauges went out and the radio stopped working, I hit a bump and everything came back on. Went home parked the car tried to start it a few hours later but all it would do is start and shut back off, after a few times worked fine. A little later went back out and it started just fine but nothing on the dash worked. The next day the same problem but later on that day it stopped working all together, the car starts but shuts back off after a few seconds. What could the problem be?
On an 03 alero neutral safety switch, which connector is power in & which connector goes out to starter?
Was told that I may have a problem with my neutral control switch on my '03 Olds Alero. Can anyone tell me where it is on the transmission or have a diagram that shows where it is.
I replaced the rear brakes and now they smoking and get extremely hot going no further than a couple city blocks and back. With the wheel off, my rotor wiggles. Don't know if that's normal. I've changed the caliper poison too. It's there a video anywhere I can watch?
My 99 alero mass air flow sensor is throwing a code, but it works in my friends alero. So it's not the sensor itself. Is there a relay or fuse that could have gone out? Or do I just need to track down a wiring problem? The day it stopped working my temp gauge also stopped working.
My car will start most of the time but when it does not it takes sometimes as much as an hour of cranking it to get it to start.
Just so you know I have my grandchildren flying into town this Wednesday for their annual summer visit HELP!!!!
1. Sometimes it starts but is hesitating it will rev on it's own and then just die.
2. Sometimes no problem.
3. Sometimes when I am driving it hesitates and feels like it is running out of gas.
I brought it into the shop this is what I was told:
1. They told me to replace the Mass air flow sensor and that will do it. (I got that replaced)
2. It had the same symptoms just 3 days later I brought it back in.
3. I was told that "the Intake Vaccum had a leak" I fixed that.
4. I was told The fuel system had to be cleaned. I fixed that.
5. Then they went to bring my car around the front to give it to me and it would not start for them ..
6 I was told it is the fuel pump and the fuel pump regulator.
7. The fuel pressure they told me was 30.
Should I get this fuel pump and fuel pump regulator replaced and can it be anything else?
I appreciate any input.
I have a 2003 Olds Bravada. When driving the engine fan sounds if it is racing. The RPMs are normal, the engine temp is fine, no warning lights are on. This happens whether in Park or in Drive . It was intermittent, but now most of the time, but not all. When I manually turn the fan blade it stops immediately, it seems tight. Also, the power to the car seems less than normal and it shifts a little late when accelerating. Could be the loud fax noise is clouding my judgement on this. I did see the transmission fluid was below the normal range- I checked it after driving for over an hour so it was a hot check and it was 3/8 inch below the bottom of the normal range. I added fluid but have not driven it since. Any ideas
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass. My problem is that recently we experience both the temperature guage and fuel guage stopped working. Up until this problem, we had occasionally experienced the fuel guage dropping to zero and returning on it own with long periods of fully functioning. I traced the fuse to position 37 in the under hood fuse box. It is listed as ac/bfc which to my understanding has to do with either the AC or cooling fans but seems to be used by other systems as well. Our AC is fine and functioning and there is no problem with overheating. Upon replacing the 10am fuse and turning the key, both guages return to function and read where expected for about 5-10 sec and then they blow the fuse. I have tested this several time with similar result. In researching this problem on the internet I came on advice that this is a typical problem for a number of GM models over the years and with the description of my situation to a T it pointed to a defective Dash Voltage Regulator or Voltage Limiter that perhaps can be found behind the instrument cluster. Upon check with several parts supplier and the local Chevrolet / Cadilac dealer parts department, there seems to be no such part nor had the parts manager ever hear of a similar problem.. My Haynes manual is of no help either. So does any one have more advice or knowledge to this problem? Help is greatly appreciated..... Mike
My father-in-law just had the engine rebuilt in his 2001 Alero 3.4l(3400 SFI) and he was telling me the car dies whenever he puts the AC in max. When I looked inside his car, his instrument cluster was lit up like a Christmas tree! It looked like every trouble light was lit. When I hooked up my scan tool, I found DTC codes P1189, P0717, U1040, and U1000. I also found ABS codes C1225, C1226, C1236, C1254, and C1298. Anyone have any idea what happened? I told him to take the car back to the guys and let them figure it out but he said they don't know anything about this problem. I tried to erase the DTCs but they immediately came back the next time I started the engine. Thanks. P.S.- I can't find out what P0717 is.
I have 4 problems at the same time. First the idle drops low and car dies, then the a/c quits and the speedometer and rpm guage drops down and then transmission goes into 3rd gear. After about a minute everything returns to normal. I got another computer from junk yard and put in the prom from the original computer but car runs the same and now it is always in third gear. Engine runs perfect except for above problems. please help!
I have a 2003 osmobile alero its leaking oil and we have to keep adding oil. Any idea what the problem might be?
1998 olds 88 parked it a couple years ago. it would start fine and run good until warmed up then would die. wouldn't start again until it cooled off. now tried to start it with new battery and only clicks. What do I do to get it started and what do I fix to keep it running when it heats up?
i have a 94 olds eighty-eight royale,i am having trouble with it dieing at slow speed,it is very easy to start back,well also put a new master cylinder on the anti-lock brakes but now all it does is chime that there is no fluid in it and the brake light and the anti lock brake light stays on,been told the anti lock brake motor is shot,and it will cost a lot to get it fixed,any help wqould be appericated thanks
I recently just changed out a battery in my 93 Cutlass and now all of a sudden i dont have dash , tail or head lights and i checked the fuses but they are fine this 93 cutlass has a 3100 v6 motor PLEASE HELP..
We bought this used. Been running fine but all of a sudden lost most of my lights.
My dashboard light went out. Now my inside lights are gone. I also lost my brake lights and left turn.
I found two burnt fuses and replaced them but that didn't bring them back. My left turn now blinks barely.
I can't drive at night since no rear lights at all.
When I open the door I now get a constant beeping or bell that I don't recall having before. You know like when you leave the key in or headlights on.
I have looked through the manual but nothing that helped solve this stuff.
Hope someone has some ideas, we can't afford another vehicle right now.
location of oil sending unit on 97 olds cutlass 3.1 litre
i need to find out what the name of the part is that the wheel assembley wheel hub and brakes are attatched to on my 1990 oldsmobile 88 royale.
I HAVE A 1994 OLDS CIERA 3.1 I HAVE NO HEAT, PUT IN A NEW HEATER CORE THAT DID NOT HELP, BLEED FOR AIR POCKETS, AND NO HEAT YET, AM RUNNING OUT OF THING TO DO, CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT ELSE CAN I TRY. THANKS
I have a 2000 olds silhouette that I just put a new fuel pressure regulator on. After replacing it, I started the van and immediately began smelling gas. No gas was leaking around the regulator or anywhere that I can see, but I did notice that the exhaust is blowing white. I went ahead and changed the PCV valve and it still is smelling and blowing white. Any ideas what this is? The only thing I did when changing the regulator was remove the fuel pump fuse to depressurize. I put it back once I was done. The van is running good, it just stinks pretty bad. Could use your help. Thanks
it's a little bit hard to try and diagnose noises without actually hearing them. If you thought it was coming from the blower motor did the noise change with the different speeds of the blower motor? as in, a higher speed the noise got louder or faster? does the noise change when it is in fresh air or recirculate? does changing the mode doors change the sound or change where it sounds like it's coming from?
When you changed the blower motor did you look to see if there was any debris that could have gotten into the plenum? I have had cars come in that have had leaves, pine needles and little twigs in the blower. But the worst things were dog food, a mouse had stored up the customers dog food in the blower fan, sounded like gravel when you turned the fan on, and a few times the actual mouse was in the fan. They died there and put the fan out of balance. Shook the whole dash when the fan came on.
you could also have things that have dropped down the defroster vent that will get stuck in the door to the defroster. I have also had cars that the recirculate door is right behind the glove box and an over stuffed glove box overflowed stuff that was sucked into the duct or blocked the vent.
so, does the noise come on with the fan on low? does it change with the fan speed? does it change when you change the blend door, mode door or recirculate door? Where does the noise sound like it is coming from? can you feel it when you put your hand on the plenum? can you reach the door actuators and see if they feel like the noise is coming from one of them?
we have a 95 oldsmobile cutlas seira sl 3.1l, car started running rough and on my way from takeing kids to school it died at a stop sign. i tried restarting it and it acted like it was out of gas. we have since replaced the fuel pump and the computer were the glove box is. it will try to start but then after that first time it won't do anything. please if some one can help that would be great. thanks and sorry about the misspelled words.
I am trying to get the diagnostic codes. I don't see the a,b jumper.
this is a 3.1L. The plastic cover says data link and its located just below the steering column. Confused :?:
ok I had another post on this, but found a bad head gasket, and fixed it. rebuilt whole top end, rebuilt heads, new gaskets, the works. When doing this, I found the cam sensor wires were all taped up by previous owner, from heat damage, so I replaced the plug. also one other thing to add- right before I did the heads, i got a code for the cat converter. Using my scanner, I ran some test to see if the o2 sensors were good, and they checked out, so I bought a new Cat converter
Before the head gasket, I was getting P0327, and replaced the knock sensor with an Autozone sensor, code came back so I replaced it AGAIN with a real GM knock sensor. Code came back again, and I checked for 5v at the wire- no voltage, so I checked for continuity and voltage AT the computer. I actually cut the wire and separated it from the circuit, and got nothing, but wire shows continuity TO the sensor
I finally gave up and took it to a Chevy dealer. after an hour, they called and said that the computer and sensor checked out, and they needed another hour to check wiring, at another $110 an hour. I said sure, then they called me back to say it WAS the PCM. Confused, I went up to the dealership with a used PCM that I had bought earlier, and asked them to put it in, and program to my car. They said they would but couldn't guarantee it. I had actually installed it previous to the head work, but it didn't make a difference, probably due to the bad valves, and leaking head.
It took a whole day, but the CEL came back on, and sure enough- EFFING KNOCK SENSOR! I am really at my wits end here- here's some thoughts I need confirmed
1) if the cam sensor wires were shorting out- could it have damaged the PCM? And wouldn't I have thrown a code for the cam sensor? Thinking back, I did install the new used PCM before I found the wires that were all taped up under the intake manifold, and I don't know if they were really shorting out although it was a horrible taped up mess
2) could something else in the ignition circuit (IE either of the 2 crank sensors, cam sensor, or the ICM be malfunctioning, or shorting out causing the PCM to screw up the knock sensor circuit? I know these are all part of the ignition circuit
Please help- any ideas appreciated. I'm beginning to think someone died in the car and it's haunted
So the car will start run for maybe 4 secs and stall immediately. It will remain running if i give it gas and open the throttle up. Was told a few things fuel filter, fuel pump, possible injector. I just replaced the fuel filter and i just want to get a definite as to what i should get/do next so if any suggestion please do not hesitate.
I have a 2000 olds silhouette Premere. When I start it i feel a steady vibration in the steering wheel and there is an intermittent pulsating on the RPMs. I don't notice either of these issues once I start driving. I do still feel the vibration in the wheel when I'm at a stop light. Sometimes after i start the van, it will die on me, but not every time. I've had it scanned and it indicated there was an issue with the fuel system, but gave no specifics. Any ideas what this might be? Please advise. Thanks.
The low beam light do not work. Fuze is ok no problem with that.
Where is the oil sending unit located on an 2003 Olds Silhouette van v-6 front wheel drive? If you could supply a diagram it would be most helpful. Thank you, chevelle33.
98 olds 88 3800 v6 hard to start runs rough then clears up , no acceleration, then when it gets warm starts running rough again then stalls wont start again until it cools down I have replaced idle control valve, map sensor and oxygen sensor
A parts store scanner said I needed an EBCU. I bought one that is connected to the EHBM (I'm guessing called the 'motor.). I doesn't look hard to replace the unit, but there are several brake lines screwed into it. What about bleeding these lines? A friend of mine who runs an "old-school" brake shop says he could bleed them manually, but is not at all certain that is how it's supposed to be done. He worries that if we do it wrong, there may be no brakes; and I'd need to have it towed to the dealer.
Words of wisdom? Caution?
Three times in the past two days the car has shut down while driving: everything - motor, electronics. It comes right back on and if I'm driving over 20-25MPH the motor kicks back in. The time I was going slow I had to stop and throw it in park to restart (didn't try neutral). Anyone have any ideas? Could it be the ignition switch?
I replace the 10 amp fuse, sometimes blows instantly. Disconnect batttery, hook back up I everything works fine. Shut the passenger lost everything, went to put in new 10 amp fuse and sparks arked and blew. Now fuse will go in, doesn't blow it and I still don't have any gauges or Temp control system works. Tech worked on it, could not find anything wrong with grounds, fuse block or wires he could see. Talked about an extensive amount of different "modules" to try and replace. Any thoughts?
I have a 1994 cutlass ciera. I drive around all day with no problem. But sometime i can't get it over 45 mph and it will start it overheat. Also seems like the brakes are on as it slows down fast with no brakes applied. If the car sitting for a while all is well again. Whats up with that ???
Need some help I have a 2001 Oldsmobile intrigue 3.5 v6 have a code 0171 and code 0133 I have replaced 02 sensor up streem crankshaft position sensor pcv valve fuel filter mass air flow sensor throttle body positioning sensor air idle control valve air cleaner Still have code 0171 and 0133 to lean check fuel pump pressure reads 38 to 42 pounds check for intake vacuum leaks what else could be wrong.thanks rich 8-) update found the problem with a smoke test throttle body shot so for if you have a vacuum leaks and can't find the source check your throttle body
So, where do I begin!
My 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Truck started with low coolant levels and I filled it back up and every since then I have had a coolant leak. I just got a new waterpump put on and before that, no one could find out what was wrong with my truck. No one knew where the leak was coming from. For the most part, there are no signs of an internal leak. No white smoke, no air bubbles on my oil stick and nothing white under my oil cap. Every morning, I check my fluids and if there are any fluids on the ground. My fluids are always low and it takes 1-2 cups of antifreeze a day. This problem is sooooo annoying, someone PLEASE HELP! The water pump has not changed my coolant leak. I thought it could be a hose/clamp but I had a guy check it out and he said it looked good. There is never anything in my overflow either whether its hot or cold. There is also this sloshing like noise in my dash and its everyday when I accelerate and brake.
PLEASE HELP!!! :cry:
I have a 1999 olds cutlass 3.1L, the temp gauge has a few times shot up past where it normally runs but then it dumps back down to where it normally goes and runs just fine. The other day it kept going up and no heat was coming out of the vents at all. The gauge kept climbing up to 260 where the light kicked on, new symptom never seen before. I got it home when I was almost home it killed then started back up and ran just fine. Want to know if its the thermostat or something worse.
Hey, new guy here, intermediate mechanic.I inherited a 03 alero, with a 3.4. Previous owner had overheating problems and a horrible mechanic, When I got it, the heater bypass was disconnected from the thermostat housing (wonder why it was overheating the last time?- lol) Anyway, I bolted the pipe back up, and put some coolant in it. Runs fine, gauge about half way up. Been driving it around to get computer to reset, as the car had been sitting a few months, now I have white steam coming from tailpipe, but no water in the oil that I can see. Previous owner said it was throwing the service engine light, and that has finally come on again. Was waiting for the light to check codes, but the white "fog" is a surprise as it wasn't doing this at first. I have a stack of paperwork from the bad mechanics that says they replaced the intake gasket, but from the absence of fasteners, and evidence of bad work, I wonder if this might be my problem still or a head gasket. Anyone ever see one of these engines steam, and not get the oil contaminated? trying to figure out the easiest way of diagnosing without spending a bill at the dealership. I figure I could just tear into the intake first, it would be quite evident yes, or no?
Thanks in advance
I have a 2001 Aurora. The outside temperature is reading about 30 degrees to warm. Engine is running at normal temp. I have heat and cooling. Fans seem to be working fine. I do however have to set the ambient temp. a little higher than normal to get sufficient heat. Any ideas as to which sensor it might be.
My wife has a 2000 oldsmobile intrigue. She will be driving with the heater on and all of the sudden it goes off and the control goes black. Stop turn off car pull key and then restart and it comes back on. Sometimes have to shut off and pull key a few times. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
My car makes a loud clicking noise that sounds like a gun firing an empty clip. It starts as soon as its started and clicks in 1 second intervals. Sounds like the noise is coming from right above my alternator. Checked alternator and my gears on my belt and nothing is hitting each other and making the noise. Even checked my boots and there tight. Could it be a firing piston or connecting arm ?I'm completely lost and this is my firstt car. Please help. Any ideas or suggestions appreciated. I also forgot to say it still starts up and runs but also has a failing fuel pump and stalls when I turn if I only have a quarter tank of gas. Also stalls rarely on deacceleration.
I have a 96 olds silhouette right now have no heat. Took it to the mechanic they've had it for 2 days. After calling several times the guy said he couldn't fix it. He said it was air pockets internally? and it wasn't worth fixing. Last year I had a valve job and head gaskets done was running great. Then this past summer had no cold air. They put in blower motor and now with no heat I have been putting antifreeze in it every couple days then after 2 weeks I have no heat. It was wet on the passenger floor but not much so I thought it was the heater core. Any one with an idea? or is my ride just going to the grave yard? Thanks! ;)
i need diagram of vacume hoses for 3800 Oldsmobile 88 1997.
Being a bit of a BYM, I have tracked down what seems to be my issue with cold starts. I still have to test this fix, but I am about to and will post about it when I am done.
Like others my car suddenly started with cold start issues. I replaced the IAT, flushed, tune up, oil change. Computer at first kept giving me IAT codes. Well one day i shorted the IAT with some wire just to make it seem like it was 100+ air temp to the computer, I got a new error. I do not remember the exact code but it has to do with the ECT. It sends a reading to the computer of -40 below 0 at temps of 32 and below. This causes the computer to increase the fuel to the engine, aka it floods out. I am going to disconnect the ECT and short it to see if I continue to have problems. If not I will report this. Now I will not assume that it is the sensor causing the reading as it could be a faulty computer as well. Further testing will see.
I've inherited this car along with inheriting some electrical nightmares. The latest set happened yesterday. I lost the interior floor lights, horn, radio and it's lights (cassette still works though ...weird), unlock door switches, mirror control....ALL at the same time sometime yesterday while on a 350 mile trip. I've checked and even replaced fuses that weren't broken (none were) but, to no avail. Any ideas? Thanks ahead. ~Gear
I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue that the drive side headlight doesn't work. Replaced the bulb and nothing. Any suggestions??
Thank you that did the trick put in a new relay all is well thank you very much! :)
I'm having a problem with my 2004 Alero. All of a sudden my speedometer, radio, gas guage, windows and automatic lights don't work. Can turns on and starts just fine. Lights work if manually turned on.
Radio comes on when key is in (ACC). Any advise on what it could be?
1999 Olds Aurora, recharged the a/c system this summer, only get tepid air, seemed to be cooler
in the defrost cycle, but not much. Maybe cooler on passenger side? Now that I need heat, I
have a similar problem in that the air is just lukewarm at best and never varies in temp.
Temp gauge reads normal, car runs fine, replaced thermostat and coolant to be safe.
p0410 is a code for your secondary air injection. that system forces fresh air into your exhaust stream to accelerate the cat system. won't really affect the driveability of the vehicle just the emissions. However the check engine light being on may affect the driveability because the engine will compensate differently with the check engine light on.
can you supply more information about what you think is wrong with your car?
Where does the sound sound like it's coming from? Does it do it when you press on the brake with the ac on and you are parked? does it show up at very low speeds? Is it only when slowing down from highway speeds? What is a grabbing sound? Do you feel any vibration in the brakes, the steering wheel, the seat, the rear end? has the ABS light come on?
you might want to see if you have a leak in the secondary air injection system. It has an electric pump to pump air and check valves to keep the air going in one direction and plumbing to get it to the exhaust. maybe what you're hearing is a leak in the AIR system. Check valves go bad, (get rusted out) along with metal piping. When the check valve goes bad it allows hot exhaust into the system and could damage rubber hoses. P0410 Check Valves This would cause a noise but won't affect the braking. AC shouldn't really affect it either. Putting the car in neutral will affect the system.
sounds like this is one of those cars where a tech will have to ride with you and have you show what has to be done to make the problem happen.
Where are all the ground wires located under the hood on a 2002 Oldsmobile intrigue?
I drove my car all night(multiple shut off and start ups), stopped to let a friend out and when I went to start it up it wouldn't even wind over at all, the cd player makes a weird clicking sound and ejected the cd, the gauges spun all around and maxed out even after I turned the key off and took it out. Tried to put the windows up and the trunk popped open. It is seriously like my car is possessed!! Has anyone had any similar issues? Please any help at all would be appreciated!
Oh, and its a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 L V6 about 85 000 miles on it.. have been driving it for over a year and no major issues at all. Worked fine all night up until I tried to leave. Went back and tested the battery and it has a lot of charge left.
Also for the past couple months I have had some signal light issues, not sure if that is related to this problem or not. Sometimes when I drive my signal lights will not work, if I leave the car sit for a while or try restarting it a few times they will come back. It isnt the flasher switch as that has already been replaced and when my signal lights are out the 4 way flashers/caution lights still work.
1998 Olds Aurora giving code P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error. I replaced the PCM still getting the code. Car will crank but not turn over. I was told it could be the body control mudule. I checked the crank sensors and changed the battery. I also tried using starter fluid. Nothing worked. If you have any other suggestions please help.
hi i have a 1989 olds 88 with the 3800 engine, i was wondering if it is normal for the exhaust manifold temp. measured with a non-contact gun aimed at the manifold when warm and idling should be 500 to 600 degrees? also the temp gauge runs at 220,the fan seems to cycle at about this temp and hold it in this range. just seems kind of high to me,my other vehicles manifold temps are 200 to 375. thanks for any thoughts.
Oldsmobile intrigue heat problem. Would the climate control module be a problem. When I go to put the defrost on it autimatically goes to ac. Any suggestions
the coolant level switch built into the coolant recovery tank. sold as a unit. Google "10405607" for picture
Coolant level is good.
Need some assistance in indentifying the part within the attached picture... It is leaking coolant at the base but I cannot find the name so that I can get this fixed.... Thanks in advance.
Picture is for illustration only and was taken from a posting on this specific forum... Thanks Greatautohelp.com for the picture.
2001 olds silouette making a dong noise like when an elevator reaches a floor, not very loud but what is it? Should I be concerned? In the middle of long drive, just stopped at rest area. Any help greatly appreciated
It stopped after I stopped at the rest area.
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue I changes a left hand front turn signal bulb I heard a small pop now I have no turn signals at all and my car wont start no sound or attempt at all everything else seems to be fine
1995 Olds 88 with (112 K miles) stalls intermittently, usually when idling (after it clears open loop) and sometimes when decelerating. Stalling frequency increases when there is moisture in the air (high humidity or rain). Once stalled, car starts up again no problems. CEL appears, throws P0401 EGR insufficient flow code. Replaced EGR. No change. Still stalls and throws same code. Checked and cleaned new EGR valve, pintle moving, ports open and clear including at intake. Mechanic friend cleaned MAF, replaced TPS checked all other sensors. No joy. Could intake manifold gasket failure be causing this problem? Un-metered air seeping past intake gaskets causing stall? Any advice appreciated!
First check and make sure none of the fuses are blown that control the instrument cluster. If that checks ok, you really need to make sure you've got power and ground at the connector on the back of the cluster. If not, you'd have to find the wiring problem...if you do have power and ground, you have a bad cluster and it would need to be replaced.
I've seen quite a few of the sensors go bad in the overflow reservoir. Check first to make sure the coolant level is satisfactory and if you continue to have issues, replace the level sensor.
Yes, lots of different things that can cause a misfire on cylinder 3.
Coil, ignition wire, spark plug, injector, etc.
Start with the basics, no need to spend money that don't have to. Check for spark. Pull the plug out and see if it's fouled or if it's cracked, etc. With #3 cylinder being in middle on the back side of the engine, it is pretty much impossible to check the fuel injector or the wiring going to it without first removing the upper intake plenum. This isn't difficult, but if you're not experienced it might be a bit much. You can try and ohm the injector with a multimeter, it should be around 12 ohms. If you have a scanner and a fuel pressure gauge you can also try and do a injector balance test, but since you went to a parts store to get your code pulled, I'm doubting you have the equipment. If there's any noise to the engine, there's also a possibility of a rocker arm that has come off due to the bolt pulling out of the head....but this isn't as common as a fuel injector issue or ignition problem.
Basically, if the ignition components check out, replace the injector.