97 chevy truck 15004x4
91 gimmy ignition switch
I have a snow plow truck and I think the rod came off or the switch went bad. What do I need to do to get to it?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
it is common for the ignition switch actuator rack to break and make it so the lock and tumbler no longer will start or won't let you turn off the dash lights. you will need some special tools to go in and check inside the steering column. You have to pull the steering wheel off. Then remove the lock plate. (it's spring loaded) remove the turn signal switch handle. Remove the turn signal switch from the mounts and pull it up and over to the side out of the steering column. Remove the shift lever and the shift collar. Then you should be able to see the gear that the lock and tumbler turn to move the rack for the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. It's a lot of small parts that have to all go back together and be in the right position for it all to work right.
steering wheel puller
lock plate puller/installer
it's not a hard job but it is a little complicated
steering wheel puller
lock plate puller/installer
it's not a hard job but it is a little complicated
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Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
Thank you for the reply. I can see the rod move so am pretty sure it is the switch itself. I started to tear into it and looks like I just about need to pull the whole column out. Yea!!
Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
the ignition switch and the dimmer switch are held on to the steering column by bolt/screws and are adjustable. If you slightly loosen the bolts slightly you can slide the parts up or down on the steering column to get the right adjustment. You can do this without taking the column out.
When the ignition rack and rod actuator breaks it will still move the rod most of the time. It just won't move it far enough. It either won't go far enough to start or it won't go far enough to turn everything off. Which way does your key not work? If you can see the rod, use a long needle nose pliers and grab the rod and push it towards the firewall and you should be able to start the engine. Push it back towards the steering wheel and you should be able to turn everything off. The ignition rack is always connected to the rod so if you use the needle nose pliers and hold the rack, turn the key back and forth. the rod should always move as the key moves. If the key has any spots where the key moves but the rack doesn't (will feel like there's a delay or slack between the key movement and the rod movement) the rack may be damaged. Or if you have the key out of the ignition so the ignition is locked use the needle nose pliers and try to move the rod back and forth. With the ignition locked the rod should be able to travel back and forth. If the rack is broken you will be to move the rod .
When the ignition rack and rod actuator breaks it will still move the rod most of the time. It just won't move it far enough. It either won't go far enough to start or it won't go far enough to turn everything off. Which way does your key not work? If you can see the rod, use a long needle nose pliers and grab the rod and push it towards the firewall and you should be able to start the engine. Push it back towards the steering wheel and you should be able to turn everything off. The ignition rack is always connected to the rod so if you use the needle nose pliers and hold the rack, turn the key back and forth. the rod should always move as the key moves. If the key has any spots where the key moves but the rack doesn't (will feel like there's a delay or slack between the key movement and the rod movement) the rack may be damaged. Or if you have the key out of the ignition so the ignition is locked use the needle nose pliers and try to move the rod back and forth. With the ignition locked the rod should be able to travel back and forth. If the rack is broken you will be to move the rod .
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Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
Thanks again, that all makes sense. I can see the rod... I'll try to get to it today and check it out.
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97 chevy truck 15004x4
I have a 97 c/k1500 and having Dash an Taillight trouble cant get them to work. Put in a new switch nothing can anybody help?????
Re: 97 chevy truck 15004x4
have you checked your fuses? the underhood fuse box, fuse #9 PARK LPS? And the dash panel fuse box fuse #16 TURN-B/U?
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Dash crack repair
How do I fix a crack coming up the drivers side hump & another larger crack across the width of My 09 Tahoe truck?
Re: Dash crack repair
that's a tough one. Nothing you do to fix the crack will last until you find out why it's cracking. If it's a stress crack you will need to find out what is causing the stress. Is the mounting bolts not tight and the dash is sagging? Hes the truck ever been in an accident and the dash mounts tweaked a little bit. Or is the dash plastic just old and brittle? The crack the is coming up by the hump sounds like a stress crack. The crack going across the dash could be from stress or just age. There are compounds that are made for dash repairs. and there is plastic welding repairs. But no repair will be as strong as the original material.Maybe if you were able to bolt something across where the crack to help hold it together it could add more time to the repair.
there are videos on youtube on how to repair plastic dashes. They all entail a lot of time and elbow grease (labor, not real grease) Sanding and smoothing, then painting... Just do a search for "plastic dash repair". Most of the time they will say to remove the dash to do the repair. If you do that, you might want to price out a new (aftermarket if new is no longer available) or used dash unit that isn't cracked and replace it.
I know it probably irritates you like crazy to see it like that but it might be so much work that you will just leave it until you get a new truck. Now I say that because I am old and don't like doing stuff like that anymore but I used to go a go getter and would do that kind of stuff on my vehicles all the time. So, if you are like how I was, 1. start taking the dash apart (if you have another vehicle to drive around). If you don't think it is something you can handle, 2. take it to a shop and get an estimate. 3. It ain't so bad and live with it. Let me know what you're gonna do.
labor time to remove and re-install a dash unit is 7.2 hours. Includes R&I upper instrument panel and console.
Now' if it is one of the panels that attaches to the dash, that would save a lot of time.
there are videos on youtube on how to repair plastic dashes. They all entail a lot of time and elbow grease (labor, not real grease) Sanding and smoothing, then painting... Just do a search for "plastic dash repair". Most of the time they will say to remove the dash to do the repair. If you do that, you might want to price out a new (aftermarket if new is no longer available) or used dash unit that isn't cracked and replace it.
I know it probably irritates you like crazy to see it like that but it might be so much work that you will just leave it until you get a new truck. Now I say that because I am old and don't like doing stuff like that anymore but I used to go a go getter and would do that kind of stuff on my vehicles all the time. So, if you are like how I was, 1. start taking the dash apart (if you have another vehicle to drive around). If you don't think it is something you can handle, 2. take it to a shop and get an estimate. 3. It ain't so bad and live with it. Let me know what you're gonna do.
labor time to remove and re-install a dash unit is 7.2 hours. Includes R&I upper instrument panel and console.
Now' if it is one of the panels that attaches to the dash, that would save a lot of time.
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