1976 Ford Truck on class C Rv "starter cylinoid info needed"

[jly]

Subject is starter cylinoid: question is where does the fuse linke wire go to the positive an negative side of the cylinoid) electrical: A retired auto man said he knew old school cylinoid installation so I let him install a new 496 starter cylinoid in my truck (It was the only one that the Auto Zone computer picture even looked like mine so it should be right I am not sure the exact motor # I have, it might be a 460 motor? It is larger than the vans. It seems to me that a good guess would be the negative side but I wanted to check with you first. A guess answer from you Will be a blessing as to which one just makes sense.
After he finished I discovered he had left the "fuse linke" wire out and he said he could not remember which side the positive or negative that it went. I have asked so many and they say they don't know.
(after trial and error sessions and two batteries later) He had damaged the wire by sitting the battery back on it a few times we think. He fixed the wire.
The positive attachment try led to smoke and a quick detachment of the wire to the battery the negative side gave nothing, but found out later that his screw was a little loose to the cylinoid, so tighten that.
By now you know this left me in a real tight spot and with my truck being a 1976.
the only manual I have, which is the original, is no help.
My trucks name is "Old Birtha" and I would really appreciate any help or suggestions. The mechanics I
have talked to just either don't want to deal with it or just don't know.

The truck was starting good and when it then did not want to start the starter was still trying so it is not the starter. All I think is well except attaching that bloody wire where it belongs. Can I do any damage by trying it on the negative side because the screw was loose when we tried before?

You were so helpful with my 98 olds By the way to solve that problem I finally replaced the wire cluster
to the main computer and that worked! I have a problem with the sensor to the coolant system and found it is not the sensor but a wire to the sensor so I have disconnected the sensor until I can fix the wire SOON. I lets me drive the car and the fans come on which was the problem with my over heating.
just thought I would mention it unless somebody needs that little information.

I look forward to hearing from you wise and talented ones soon.
jly and "Old Birtha" Have a blessed day!

[carriedi]

on the ford starter relay, all the fusible links connect to the battery side of the relay. If something starts to smoke you have a short somewhere. The big terminal on the other side of the relay goes to the starter. So that side should only have the one big cable that goes from the relay down to the starter. It only has power when the relay (solenoid) is turned on and the starter runs.

the battery side of the starter relay is an easy place to bolt all the power wires up that all draw battery voltage.

[jly]

thanks,
in other words only the positive side of the battery is connected into the relay? If you are looking at the
relay would that be the left side of it? I think what he did was connect the positive to the left side of the
relay and the negative to the right. I don't know what is connected to the small two "plugs" in the front of the relay, between the two large bolts. Also, do you know a source to get a fuse from that I cannot get at auto zone? I pulled one out that was wrapped in tin foil (mistake?) the glass was broken so I have to find a new one the only writing by the fuse says "'0A EMERG"
Have a blessed day! THANKS
jly

[carriedi]

does your RV use an "F" series cab like a pickup truck or does it use an "R" series cab like the front on a ford van?

if you look at the relay, the two small terminals should be marked. "S" and "I". "S" is for the starter signal from the ignition switch through the neutral safety. The "I" is for 12V ignition voltage to the coil during cranking. The battery cable from the battery should connect to the big terminal that is on the side closest to the "S" terminal. The battery and all the fusible links connect to that terminal. The big terminal on the side closest to the "I" terminal connects to the starter cable. Only the starter connects to that big terminal.

the glass tube style fuses should be available at most auto parts stores. You need to know what the fuse is though. there were fuses like SFE20, SFE30, AGA10, ect. the letters tell you what kind of fuse, (length and style) and the numbers are for the amp rating. the fuse ID should be marked on the metal cap of the glass fuse.

[jly]

hi,
the package of fuses I bought was AGA. The one I took out was 20A with 32V. The only one in my package is
20A with 250V. Can I use it?

What damage can be done if I use a cylinoid/relay that is a different number. My engine was rebuilt when I bought it and the word of wisdom from the seller was don't change the electrical. Auto Zone sold me the 496 relay because it was the only one that looked like
my old one that I took to them. Even if I get the numbers off the block or else where fact remains I don't know what changes the
previous owner did! I hope you can tell me the damage I can do if I use a relay that is stronger. the 496 probable means the 496 motor they built which was a class A rv and much larger motor than mine. this is probable not a fair question to ask you but if you would give it your best shot I would appreciate it. I have the wiring figured out just need to do it but don't want to complete unless I feel that is the right relay or what damage I can do. If it is stronger looks like that would ruin my batteries. I just have a feeling you can help me please.
have a blessed day
jly
prophetesss54704@yahoo.com

[carriedi]

Ford starter relays are just switches. they are electromagnetic applied switches. Wired up correctly all they do is pull a big contact down to complete a circuit to send current to the starter. All your fusible links and the positive battery cable go on one side big terminal. the big cable that goes to the starter goes on the other side big terminal. Your Ignition switch wire goes to the small terminal marked "S" You may or may not have a wire that hooks up to the "I" terminal for your ignition coil.

if the ignition switch matches what you original solenoid/relay looked like it should work the same.

[jly]

thanks so much, I am going to take a gamble that the short was in the wire ends that were trimmed as he should not have taped crushed wires and tried to use them. right?

have a blessed day!
jly

[carriedi]

I do not know what your previous person did or why they did it. But, twisted wires are not a good and trusted connection. Soldered and heat shrink, butt connectors with heat shrink insulators, something that will give a good connection and will keep moisture out.

I don't know what wire is twisted together but if you have blown fuses you might have a blown fusible link that was twisted back together. Which could burn open again or if the fusible was bypassed with regular wire you could burn up the wire harness. be careful

[jly]

hi,
Replaced one fuse that was wrapped in tin foil and the linke wire has been replaced.
I had it done and he did not do what I told him. that wire was a 10
that was connected into a 17 before it then continued to the alternator. He did the entire wire with the 17 which I will change,
unless you think it does not matter. Could this be problem that would keep it from starting. One thing is different
on the wire a little I don't hear the click down near

It will not turn over but at least now I can hear it trying too. I am wondering if the problem might be the two small
relay wires,if they have been reversed?.
because the man who messed it up originally I found out later had dyslexia. Should I try to check that out and if so
any suggestions as to a short cut to find out if they are reversed?

Thank you so very much for all your help and I look forward to hearing from you.
Have a blessed day,

jly

[carriedi]

I am unsure of the wiring you are talking about or what you mean by "reverse".

all the battery side wires should connect to the big terminal on the "S" side of the relay. Only the starter cable should be on the "I" side of the relay.

[jly]

my relay #496 has four places to connect to. I have placed all accessary wires to the battery side and the starter wire to the other side. in between these two connection my relay has two small wires that are connected. I wanted to know a system to test these two wires to find out if they are connected to the right place. They are the two smaller wires and if he made a mistake it would have to be they are connected each one to the place the other one goes (reversed as to where they should go). If one could have anything to do with the motor turning over and staying turned over then what trouble can I get into by reversing them to see if that is the
problem?
You are such a blessing.

thanks for all your help!
jly
prophetesss54704@yahoo.com

[carriedi]

originally the two small wires that connect to the two small terminals are for the starter wire from the ignition switch, that one goes to the the the terminal marked "S". That wire should have battery voltage when the key is in the start position.

the other wire that should connect to the other terminal ( the "I" terminal) should go to the (+) side of the ignition coil. It gives the coil 12 volts when cranking. (normally when the engine is running, the coil runs on lower voltages to help reduce wear in the points.

if the two wires are a brown wire (the one for the coil) and a Red and blue wire (ignition switch) then you should wire them up accordingly.

If you have a test light, the wire that gets battery voltage when you put the ignition switch in start, that one goes to the "S" terminal.