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I own a mustang gt and was in a driver side accident....new radiator core support, new upper apron new hood and new fender and headlight! I recently noticed I have a bad battery draw, I would charge it overnight on 2amps and it would go from 12.8v to 9.8v just being hooked up in hrs and my alternator works fine .....the only way I know how to diagnose this type of electrical problem is to disconnect the neg. battery, put a test light or multimeter on eithet/both neg. ends (batt and the battery clamp while having them separated) then star pulling fuses, relays and connectors until the light goes out or gets very dimm (test light that is)......due to memory I know a small glow is acceptable! Is there an easier, faster or different was to find a draw. I have a genisys scan tool and everything seems normal, no engine light and all moniters pass but I have 3 codes that will keep coming back KOEO and I'v been getting these same three codes for years now so i dont think they have anything to do with the problem........They are B 2477 (2) If I remember correctly they have to do with not being calibrated with my cars vin and or no controller ID for the radio (audio) and the other is a 3rd upper brake light failure (gem/ctm) which I believe is due to not having a bulb in the socket because of a ducktail spoiler which covers the light anyway so I took it out. Can anyone help me? Also what is an acceptable draw 350 milli amps? What else can cause a draw besides something being left on a broken part or a pinched wire or bad alternator? Sorry for the long question but the more info the better...... Follow up question is the stock grounds enough I.e ground strap from engine to fire wall and smaller misc ones or will adding more be a worth while idea? Please help any info is better than none! Tanks -Mike


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The only acceptable way to test for a parasitic draw is using a multimeter. The test light or 'light bulb' method is ridiculous because you can never tell exactly how many amps are being drawn by looking at the brightness of a bulb. The acceptable range for a draw is 50 to 80 milliamps. Preferably less if possible. 350 milliamps as you asked is 6 times the normal draw, so that's way too much. You'll have to do an accurate reading to see exactly how big the draw is, and then start pulling fuses and/or disconnecting modules until it goes away or drops to a normal range. Then you'll find your problem. The trouble codes you have set have nothing to do with a battery draw.
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Your missing the point, you (the last guy than posted) was no help, I'm concerned about the codes I pulled 28 codes some multiple in different computers......I put my fluke on it and it never went below about 400ma. I'v been doing some research and found that I don't have a scan tool thar can reprogram comps, I have modis but even that can't do it...best I can do is spend more time than I have and I really need my car to get to work. At this moment I am not financially able to take my car to the dealship. On another note my car needs to be smoged in two days.......do smog shops care about BCM GEM or PATS Codes .....no engine light. it did go into fail safe mode and would not start but after I disconnected the batt and reset the KAM. its a bad situation, I have the tools to check almost everyrthing. I love working on my car too I just don't have the time, only weekende. Please read first posting too. PLEASE HELP, THIS INT AN EAZY ONE!, anyone have any info on this situation. I'v done a lot of diagnosing, pulled every fuse, most modules and computers, multipe connectors and every relay already and i did alll including all the body work...does anyone have a suggestion or answer other than taking it to the dealership


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Your missing the point, you (the last guy than posted) was no help, I'm concerned about the codes I pulled 28 codes some multiple in different computers......I put my fluke on it and it never went below about 400ma. I'v been doing some research and found that I don't have a scan tool thar can reprogram comps, I have modis but even that can't do it...best I can do is spend more time than I have and I really need my car to get to work. At this moment I am not financially able to take my car to the dealship. On another note my car needs to be smoged in two days.......do smog shops care about BCM GEM or PATS Codes .....no engine light. it did go into fail safe mode and would not start but after I disconnected the batt and reset the KAM. its a bad situation, I have the tools to check almost everyrthing. I love working on my car too I just don't have the time, only weekende. Please read first posting too. PLEASE HELP, THIS INT AN EAZY ONE!, anyone have any info on this situation. I'v done a lot of diagnosing, pulled every fuse, most modules and computers, multipe connectors and every relay already and i did alll including all the body work...does anyone have a suggestion or answer other than taking it to the dealership. Sorry posted twice, it told me the first one did not work so I'm drawing again.


   
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I'm not missing the point....you're trouble codes are insignificant until you fix the damn battery draw on your car! 400milliamps is 10 times the normal accepted draw, so you have a big problem there. The codes are probably setting due to the fact the battery voltage is way off when it drains down, which is very normal. Fix your draw and then address any remaining issues. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure this out.

This ends your free help...any remaining questions will have to be paid for.
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Jeeze your persistent ......forget the draw. I found several draws and have significantly brought down the draw. It's a little high but I'm concerned about the other problems. PATS system, abs unit and ecu are the main draws. Everything points to the ECU! I know that a weak batt will cause many problems including issues like mine. I replaced the battery and it runs fine I just can't clear 3 different codes to see if the problem comes back. It know I was in an accident and won't communicate properly. Fords pats system page is saying that if I have certain codes most important is the u1900 communication issue with pats and pcm and instrament cluster and b1342 defected ECU if code is stored in PCM. I know the obvious answer is its a computer problem. Just answer this question since you can't get past the draw. Is there a way to clear these codes....even my modis won't do it. I disconnected the batt and computers for a day and everything runs great but I cannot clear these codes. All monitors pass and all pids are within range. Just need these codes gone so I can see if they return. Guess ill have to go to dealership cause this forum has no technicians that can handle a challenge. Come on guys does anyone know someone at there ford dealership that has heard of this? It's either going to be 1 of four things and I need to know where to start. Was thinking maybe enough driving and will re-learn. Next a comp reflash/reprogram, a wiring issue and last would be a new ECU or PCM or both! If you can get past the only problem you know anything about....ie draw at batt. please......any info will help. Many tsbs but they only take care of the codes I already fixed.


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That's pretty smart to insult the people trying to help you. Here's my advice....take it to a Ford dealer, since it's obviously way out of your league.

At least I can fix my own vehicles.

Have a fantastic day! :lol:
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Fixed.......9000$ estimate to repair car and I fixed everything myself for just over a grand! Even passed smog with flying colors. All body work including welding and spot welding and all electrical/computers/sensors. Lines are straight with no bondo! One code left but I know what it is and i don't need help with it......need to order new key and program it to get rid of last remaining code! The main draw was the third brake light .....I could not see that it was staying on ( due to aftermarket ducktail spoiler) until I pulled the seats out to check wiring! That and a dime found its way into cig. Lighter socket in armrest console and was drawing current but would not pop fuse! So yea....I can fix my own cars and I can fix them well without throwing parts at it or taking it to dealer! Next time look past the draw .......yea it needs to be addressed but I was focused on the 28 codes I pulled before the batt. died.


   
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