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I read in my car manual that it is not a good thing to wrap the electrical on my car using electrical tape. Do you know the effects that would have on car. There is a lot of tape on a lot of my wiring and
I have a wiring problem that I am trying to solve. I am going to replace the ignition module intake wiring pony tail so I was wondering about the rest of my wiring? (thanks)
98 olds intrigue V6 engine. I am doing the ponytail because when the car quits then after I play with the wires sometimes just straightening them then the car restarts. But I think I have another problem also because the RMP's go crazy and the car stops again. I can keep it going longer if I keep my foot on the brake and the gas at the same time keeping the rpm's up. I read that the car does not like this and one time I heard a noise that sounded like the alternator but I heard that just one time and none later. appreciate your help, have a blessed day...:) I was thinking about giving the keys to GMC,lol:( but I don't want to have to do that)


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Location: Oregon
there is nothing wrong with using electrical tape in the wire harness wiring. make sure you have soldered and insulated each individual wire or use a good wire connector and crimp them securely. Heat shrink tubing over soldered connections are the best for splices. Crimp connectors with heat shrink insulation would be next.

the manual that said not to use electrical tape may have been talking about the ignition wires if you car has them. That would be the spark plug wires. (at least that's what it could be talking about)

your rpm problem could also stem from your ignition module problem. I know you have had your car to a shop before, but I don't know how much they got into looking for your problem. I don't know if they used a lab scope and looked at the inputs to the module and saw what the signals from the crank sensor was doing. or the other inputs and outputs. Wiggling the wire harness is a good test for a bad connection and since it changes the reaction of the car I would guess you are on the right track. especially if you can pull a wire out of the connector.


   
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Thank you so much. Yes, actually a smart mechanic got shocked when he moved the wires. It starts after I straighten them but car does not go very far9 even with me increasing the rpm's) until the engine stops again. Do you think the reading of the #2 knocker will still be there after I fix the wiring?
If not to much trouble could you e mail put all our notes including the electrical on one site so I will have it when I get started. I have to get the ponytail still from Napa. The darn car would not make it that far. Have a blessed day!


   
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Location: Oregon
the ignition module wires harness is different than the ignition wires. I know it sounds like they would be the same but they are different things. Ignition wires are the wires that go from the coil to the spark plug. if they have damage in them they could spark out the wire and could shock a person or short to any close ground. That would be a problem that you could feel because it causes the engine to misfire.

ignition module wires are just ordinary wires that go into the wires harness to run electrical signals to run sensor inputs and outputs. The ignition module should have like 14 wires in a single row with a bolt in the center to keep it locked together. If you can't find an inexpensive ignition pigtail connector you might check at a junk yard and see if they will cut one off a car they are parting out. then all you have to do is splice it into your harness.


   
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Thanks, then this is the ignition module wires that I wiggle and then the car starts again. This was where he had his hand and told me to wiggle them when I called him the next time I stalled.
Also the casing that I need to find is where the wire go in. so I will make a trip to pick a part and then hopefully after all is replaced THEN there will be no further problem. (lol, wishful thinking huh?)

Also, the color of the lose wire after seeing in the sun light is PINK not red as I typed earlier. My hope is to figure out if I am going to have to replace that sensor knocker #2 that the reading showed recently.
Before, yes a mechanic did scan the car while driving it with his aid and they decided it was ignition related which was causing a vacuum problem and that same day after the scan he got shocked when touching the ignition wires and his final decision was that it was those wires and I know that is part of it. The rest, if any, I don't know. Those guys stay so busy they want me to leave the car and I don't like that.

Will you send me that electrical chart again on a 98 olds intrigue?

Thanks Again and have a blessed day,
Jly


   
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Location: Oregon
here's a diagram that overlaps so you can see where the wires go to. the wires in the diagram will not match the order as it is in the picture. Look at the pin positions on the module. the pins go from A to P (with no "i" or "o" because they might be confused as "1" and "0")

you can see that the pink wire goes to the under hood fuse panel to fuse ELEK IGN, a 15amp fuse to power the module.


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the dealerships would put on basically anything the owner wanted. Money in their pockets, so why not? lol


   
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