2004 Grand Prix BCM Programming

[Jetsa]

I'm very familiar with all GM's as I have been a technician/shop foreman/service director in GM dealerships since 1982 but this one has me going. It's a 2004 Grand Prix with the 3.8 "2" motor. I got the car without a keyless remote and that was originally my only concern, since then I have encountered other concerns which may or may not be related. The most obvious problem is this.....when programming a remote via the service manual, it says to go to "Vehicle Control Systems". When you hook up the Tech 2, the only options are the old school ones (Powertrain, Body, Chassis). So I have tried to trick it and tell it it is an 05 model and of course the "Vehicle Control Sysytem" screen comes up but it would not let me program the remote (because it is not an 05). In 03, the proper way is to go to "Body" and follow directions, but that wont work either because it is not an 03. So when I am in 04 and at the Body section, I can see the BCM inputs, outputs, etc....but if I try to communicate with the BCM, such as configuring options in the BCM, as soon as I hit the key to save options I get the "Unable to Communicate, Check ALDL" screen (along with the non-communication beep from the Tech 2).

Other things I notice are that on every start of the vehicle, a code B1370 goes to history in the BCM. I have done a shapshot of ignition switch turns and cannot see anywhere where I have an open, short, or ground between the 12V reference and the Ign1 circuits at the ignition switch. Makes me think the BCM is bad but I hate guessing. Add to all this that occassionally when driving, the car acts like it is dying and will go into Reduced Engine Power mode (for a split second), but if you turn off the car and restart it, it is okay and it does not set any codes but the Tech 2 will chime like it lost communication. You would think this would also clear info (the beeping of the Tech 2) but it does not. For instance, today when it went into Reduced Engine Power and beeped, I was driving it to get the I/M status to ready and I already had 3 Ready. After the beep, I still had those 3 ready.

I'm very familiar with all GM's as I have been a technician/shop foreman/service director in GM dealerships since 1982 but this one has me going. It's a 2004 Grand Prix with the 3.8 "2" motor. I got the car without a keyless remote and that was originally my only concern, since then I have encountered other concerns which may or may not be related. The most obvious problem is this.....when programming a remote via the service manual, it says to go to "Vehicle Control Systems". When you hook up the Tech 2, the only options are the old school ones (Powertrain, Body, Chassis). So I have tried to trick it and tell it it is an 05 model and of course the "Vehicle Control Sysytem" screen comes up but it would not let me program the remote (because it is not an 05). In 03, the proper way is to go to "Body" and follow directions, but that wont work either because it is not an 03. So when I am in 04 and at the Body section, I can see the BCM inputs, outputs, etc....but if I try to communicate with the BCM, such as configuring options in the BCM, as soon as I hit the key to save options I get the "Unable to Communicate, Check ALDL" screen (along with the non-communication beep from the Tech 2).

Other things I notice are that on every start of the vehicle, a code B1370 goes to history in the BCM. I have done a shapshot of ignition switch turns and cannot see anywhere where I have an open, short, or ground between the 12V reference and the Ign1 circuits at the ignition switch. Makes me think the BCM is bad but I hate guessing. Add to all this that occassionally when driving, the car acts like it is dying and will go into Reduced Engine Power mode (for a split second), but if you turn off the car and restart it, it is okay and it does not set any codes but the Tech 2 will chime like it lost communication. You would think this would also clear info (the beeping of the Tech 2) but it does not. For instance, today when it went into Reduced Engine Power and beeped, I was driving it to get the I/M status to ready and I already had 3 Ready. After the beep, I still had those 3 ready.

The car did not come with a remote so I bought one and even though it was new, I checked the button functions and it is good. Even borrowed a friends RCDLR to try and same results. I can't help but think that the problem for all these things are related, but don't want to throw money at the BCM or Ignition switch without knowing. I guess the most pressing question would be have any of you tried to program an 04 G.P BCM and if so, how did you do it? I tried another Tech 2 and it had the same options at that screen (Powertrain, Body, Chassis), not the new Vehicle Control System.


Any help would be most appreciated.

Edit: Forgot, I know that 2004 was the 1st year of the model change for the Grand Prix so in the back of my mind I keep thinking that maybe there is a software glitch between new and old with the SPS and Tech 2's. Hoping some of you that deal with Pontiac's daily might have experienced something like this already and know exactly what to do...HAHAHA. Thanks again in advance.

[butchkaz]

It seems you did not go far enough into the TechII menus. Build the car. Then go to Body - special functions - then you will see Program key FOB, and there you go.
The B1370 is a toss up. Most common is the ignition switch. Check that the BCM connectors are not green from water intrusion.

[Guest]

LOL I have "built the car" and tried to program the remote under special functions about 20 times and it always comes back with "the remote did not program...try again?" My main point was (and what I was looking for from a Pontiac tech hopefully) the service manual (Global Connect) says to go to Vehicle Control Systems (and that is not an option) to program the remote.

As far as the B1370, the BCM connectors are fine (terminals too). You have seen this one with the issue coming from the ignition switch? I did a snapshot of me turning the ignition switch through all the functions and it never went open or anything but correct readings while turning (although this is what I assumed would be the problem but I hate guessing). Something I noticed today is that right after I started it and was letting it sit at idle to pass the I/M readiness tests, I started moving harnesses around and I moved the main harness at the underhood fuse block and the idle changed (didn't die, just fluctuated obviously with my movements). I see in the schematic that the BCM gets the 12V reference that it gives the ignition switch from the IGN1 circuit in that underhood fuse block. Maybe a coincidence, I dont know (it has been randomly stalling also but I found and reprogrammed a new program into the PCM today for intermittent stalling (Baro issues)).

So in a nuthsell, on an 04 Grand Prix, the manual says to go to "Vehicle Control Systems" to program the remote and that is not an option...plus I cannot get a remote to program. Sooooo, how do you Pontiac guys do it on those?

Thanks Again

[butchkaz]

That is how we do it, as stated above. nevermind the "Vehicle Control Systems", it is done through "Special functions". Possible Bad BCM as you thought.
Such a quick fault of the B code would probably not be caught by a snapshot. Check real good again at that harness you moved. Have had problems internal to Fuse Blocks.

[Guest]

Yeah we had problems with the underhood fuse blocks on Impala's (same W body style) mainly. Thanks for your replies.

[Jetsa]

Update on the non-programming of the remote and the non-running of the Catalytic Convertor I/M testing. Tried a known good BCM and same results, so waiting on an ignition switch (did I mention I HATE guessing). Also found something strangely suspicious...found the positive battery terminal extremely loose, worn due to previous corrosion, and un-adjustable....so I replaced it with an aftermarket top-post terminal (hate aftermarket but didn't want to do the whole cable thing). Got to thinking that this may have been a BIG part of both problems but since I have the ignition switch ordered and have the whole interior apart diagnosing the issue, I will just wait and put the switch in then retest.

More info to follow....

[Jetsa]

Another update with another plea for advise....same car. Tried the new ignition switch and still get the random B1370...random as in it will set probably 3 cranks out of 5. Havent tried the new remote to see if the problem with the one I had not programming was an incorrect one or not. But beyond those issues (unless they are related), I still cannot get the Catalytic Convertor to pass or fail the I/M test, it just wont run. Something else I stumbled on was this....after a 3 hour drive cycle, the car was in closed loop and the ECT was reading correct but when I went to "Tests Ran This Ignition" (or whatever it says), the only ones which had not run were P0116, 0125, 0128, 0420, and all the Evap ones. The 420 which is convertor and the evap ones are the only 2 I/M's that have not run and I am thinking that until the ECT ones (0116,0125,0128) run, the convertor and evap ones will not either. I can't find in the service manual anywhere where it says that, but it makes sense.

Question is, why would the ECT ones show as to not have run, but when driving I am in closed loop and the ECT is reading correct? Has a new thermostat and the coolant fill is correct. P0125....Coolant Temp. Not Sufficient for Closed Loop.

Any ideas? and Thanks.

[Jetsa]

Another update and a tip for you guys that work on em everyday.

So, I finally go the ECT tests to run by replacing the ECT sensor and while I was there, re-replacing the thermostat. Didnt see anyting wrong with either, but for the cost, I decided to replace both and then all the ECT tests ran and passed. After that, I assumed that maybe the convertor test would run but I was wrong, it still would not run after another 60 miles test drive. So what I began doing was trying to get the convertor (P0420) to "Run This Ignition Cycle) by doing the test in the service stall (In park, raise and hold idle at around 2000RPM's for 1 minute then letting it idle, putting it in drive and watching the air/fuel ration change from low to high). I had done this test numerous times with no test ran but this time, after 2 times of running that test, it failed the convertor (this ignition cycle). This tells me that the convertor was an "impending failure) and was probably aborting the test due to. So I had a new convertor put on, ran the "Ran This Ignition Cycle" test 3 times and the convertor passed while sitting in my stall.

The tip is that you can get the convertor test to run by doing the "Ran This Ignition Cycle" test in the stall instead of having to drive it 60 miles. Along the same lines (and from previous experience), you can also get the Evap test to run (for I/M) by doing a Service Bay test when the vehicle is cold. Most of you know this, some don't. Hope it helps some.

Still waiting on a different part number remote so I can verify that the reason the remote would not program was because I was given the wrong part number.

Thanks for all the advice and help.

[MeccBoy]

Thanks for the info. We could use a Tech like you on this board to offer up more great insight !