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1998 Lesabre DTC p0300 and p1665 , 108k miles. starts and runs but is misfiring bad. MIL blinking. Stalls if I try to drive. Had a slight gas smell for the past couple months. Strongest when the fuel tank is less than 1/4 tank. I was driving it and car started jerking and lost alot of power. Also notice antifreeze resivor was empty. No fluid leaks. Any clue what the problem could be?

Optional Information:
Year : 1998
Make : Buick
Model: Lesabre Custom
Engine: 3.8

Already Tried:
Removed and cleaned EGR. Replaced PCV, Cleaned throttle body, replaced front 3 spark plugs and wires(couldnt reach the three in back).
Was going to try crankshaft sensor but was told its a hard job?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


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contributions: 2034
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
P0300 is a code that tells you your engine is misfiring. It doesn't pin it down to any particular cylinder. If you had your car scanned for codes did you look at the misfire counter and graph which cylinders are misfiring? That would be a good way to find out what cylinders need attention. If you don't know what cylinders are the problem, if you do the plugs and wires, you should do them all to keep things even. Do the back three and see what happens.

You should probably check your fuel pressure and make sure you don't have a leaking fuel pressure regulator. If your fuel pressure reads normal (48 - 55psi key on engine off) start the engine and pull the vacuum line off at the regulator and see if you have any fuel coming out of the regulator. (there shouldn't be any fuel coming out of the regulator)

P1665 is the computer telling you that there is a problem with your evap system. you are going to have to check your canister vent valve operation. this may or may not be your gas smell.

If you smell raw gas from your vehicle, sniff around to see where it seems to be coming from. You don't want to a gas leak to cause a fire. Leaking injectors, fuel lines or fuel tank could be hazardous.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9m9_S9uFNw


   
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Thanks for the help and info.

I have a scan tool but its not and expensive one. At first when the car lost power and started running on less than 6 cylinders, all I was getting is the 0300 code and the MIL didnt flash. I only drove it about a half a mile. When I pulled in my driveway and shut it off ,It wouldnt turn over again and seemed siezed. I rolled the car backwards in neutral a little and then it turned over but wouldnt start.

I had it towed to a friends gargae so I can work on it because I dont have a garage at home.

I got the 1665 code after I replaced the 3 plugs (Two of the three front plugs had oil on them) and cleaned the egr. It started right up but is running very rough.... thats when the 1665 code came up and MIL started flashing. I will find a way to get to the other 3 plugs and replace those.

I was checking some of the vac lines and a vac line that goes from the top of the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the intake and the line broke off....that same line also splits and connects to an evap component that is to the left of the FPR....I believe it is the purge solenoid?, but from the diagram I have its hard to be sure. so I'll have to go to the junk yard and try to find a replacement line tomorrow. Do you think thats what set off the 1665 and flashing MIL?

Do you think I should replace the FPR and EVAP solenoid at the same time?

Do you think it is worth replacing the CKP? I bought one because a friend suggested to replace it, but I really didnt want to rent a puller and remove the balancer to get to the CKP if I dont have to.
Thanks


   
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Location: Oregon
I wouldn't replace anything unless I found that it wasn't working. Evap doesn't usually cause the MIL to flash. The Mil flashing is for when the computer senses that something is wrong and could damage the cat. (most likely the misfiring)

If you had a vacuum line off that could have set the evap code. There should be two vacuum lines off of the throttle body. one goes to the fuel pressure regulator and the other goes to the evap canister purge solenoid. the solenoid will have another like that goes to the evap canister.

I wouldn't replace the crank sensor until I had something that shows it's not working right.

you're going to have to figure out if you have an ignition problem (like the plugs and wires, coil... or if you have a fuel problem (fuel pressure, injector pulse or injector problem) once those are either fixed of eliminated as problems you start looking at stuff like the crank sensor, valve train, cylinder compression...


   
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