truck runs perfect when cold. when it warms up fuel pump stops working. relay is good in fuse box. any other relays or computers that would shut down the fuel pump?
I'm searching for the color diagram for the multi switch. Which color wire goes to which pin.
I'm most interested in pin 1-8.
With my 2004 Expedition,(5.3-auto), I am having difficulty with an oil leak from the hoses/connectors to the oil cooler at radiator.
The snap plastic connectors which attach the metal oil lines to the oil cooler leak just enough to coat the underwood with mist attracting dirt/grime as well as causing a slow drip while engine is running.
I have searched for the replacement plastic push in fittings where line inserts into oil cooler.
At this point I m ready to purchase both steel oil lines which I believe have the proper plastic connector fittings with - I think o rings necessary.
Long winded question- can anyone recommend parts vendor who can provide oil lines with appropriate connector fittings for both lines?
In the past I have had poor luck with vendors requiring use of old connectors as well as a reputable mechanic whose "fix" lasted less than 5k miles.
I do almost all work on this vehicle in house and need to identify a good vendor who is knowledgeable and stand by parts-any help advice from someone who had been down this road before is greatly appreciated
Again thanks for any comments/advice
So just recently and of course when the temperature outside drops it decided to stop blowing hot air into the cab... the air is still blowing and the switch from cold to hot air still operates just fine. Water level is good and no engine over heating issues... so I'm not sure if it would be the water pump thermostat or heat core.... so curious to see what you guys might think it is...
My heat only works when driving. When I'm in park and idling blows out cold air. Checked antifreeze what else could it be.
I really hope someone can help me. I am new to the diesel truck owners club. And have very little knowege of diesel engines. I got off of work and went to start the truck. It started fine for it being 30 degrees give or take outside. When I put the truck in drive and gave is some throttle It died and wouldnt reatart. I am aware it needs glow plugs. And the wait to start light didnt come on after it died after i turned the jey on and off.
My 2004 F-150, 5.4 triton 3V, wheels locked up my son the other day. He was at work and the vehicle was operating normally. When he got off work, I got the phone call. The front brakes and rotors were definitely overdue for a change...I was planning to do it this week.
When I moved the vehicle back into the parking spot it was like trying to climb over a curb...very pronounced jerking. I needed to get on the gas to get her to move. It sounded like one or more tires were dragging across the pavement. I have messed around trying to do as much of my own maintenance in the past several years, by no means do I declare to be a mechanic, but I'm baffled. It is possible for all the brakes lock up? I'm pretty sure that I didn't have all calipers go bad at once. Master cylinder? Not sure what the technical name is the vacuum module in line with the master cylinder...if that fails due to the lack of engine vacuum, would/could that lock all the brakes, just one, or a pair? Driveline issue? Bearings?
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
first thing you want to check is your coolant level. while the engine is cold, like first thing in the morning, open the radiator cap and check how much coolant is in the radiator. low coolant can cause similar symptoms as you are experiencing.
a partially closed thermostat or a plugged up radiator could also exhibit similar symptoms. When the engine is idling there is very low circulation from the water pump. If there are any restrictions like the thermostat or the radiator Or low coolant it will compound the loss of heat dissipation. Once you get moving and rev up the motor, you increase the flow from the water pump and also to air flow through the radiator (as the car moves air is forced through the radiator)
anyways, that's where I would start looking.
TRUCK HAS 156,000 MILES ON IT HAS BEEN SERVICED REGULAR. IT CUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. IT WOULD CRANK BUT CUT OFF IMMEDIATELY. AFTER IT SET ABOUT 4 HRS IT CRANKED BUT RAN ONLY A FEW MIN. IT HAS NO CODES IN SYSTEM. FUEL PUMP COMES ON. FUEL PRESSURE GOES TO 60 PSI AND PUMP CUTS OFF. WITH PUMP AND KEY OFF FUEL PRESSURE IS ABOUT 52 PSI. FUEL FILER CHANGED. THANKS FOR THE GREAT HELP YOU GIVEN IN THE PAST.
On my 88 f150 man. Trans.4.9 was running OK but went to start it and nothing does not turn over no dashlights stereo blower motor all dead fused links all good so are fuses touched a hot wire to the power side of stereo and windshield wipers moved dashlights came on then the fuse blew in the panel battery is good headlight and dome lights work
I have a tough one , my 06 f250 superduty with a gas 5.4 is stalling right after starting , at first if I started it and pressed the pedal I could keep it running at 2000 rpms but let off and it would stall now it wont even start . it isn't getting fuel even after changing fuel pump , fuel filter , fuel pump drive module , throttle position sensor , fuses and relays are good . it runs as long as I keep spraying starting fluid .
this started out the blue 2 days ago and wont start since
this is the returnless fuel system .
keep in mind that me being tired and dumb that I tried starting the truck by mistake this morning while diagnosing forgetting the air filter assembly , throttle body and intake manifold was off the truck , all unplugged. it threw a bunch of codes
pulled codes and they show
p061b internal control module torque calibration performance
p2106 throttle actuator control system forced limited power
p2110 throttle actuator control system forced limited revs per minute
p0122 throttle / pedal sensor a circuit low input
p0223 throttle / pedal position sensor / switch b circuit high input
p0104 mass air flow circuit intermintent
p2100 throttle actuator control motor circuit open
u1900 control area network communication bus malfunction receive malfunction
cleared all codes and none show up while trying to start it
if I press the pedal the throttle butterfly does open and close
I put inline fuel pressure tester at filter and get 40lbs which should be plenty for a returnless fuel system to start
I can start the motor and it stalls or press pedal and just makes sucking sound though intake and stalls
best that I could I checked wiring and plug connecters , all seem ok
I didn't change the ECU or the fuel rail pressure sensor or pedal sensor yet , getting exspensive
any suggestions would be appreciated
When the clutch pedal is depressed the brake pedal depressed a bit causing slight braking when shifting. Help please?
Hi, a couple months ago I installed a dual Magnaflow exhaust system with no catalytic converters onto my 84 302 ford e150 van. I'm getting very little sound out of the left pipe, the right is nice and loud. But just by putting my hand next to the pipes I can feel the preasure difference. does anyone know what's up ,possibly? Thx
I have 2004 ford sport track and there no break peddle pressure goes right to floor,master is full of fluid no visibe leaks i can see any where! Cap for master has blown rubber gasket out of itself! Is this a bad master or something else?
1991 ford e150 club wagon van 302 5.0 starts great when it's not to cold but dies after about 20 to 30 minutes of running. New plugs wires cap ignition module air idle control and flushed out both tanks. Still having same problems as before. Any ideas on what the issue is?
1999 explorer, 5.0 Limited AWD model. brake pedal creeps down aprox 1/2" to 1" just before it comes to a complete stop, then holds. Does not happen every time. More often when wheels are turned slightly. Master cyl is full, no leaks found. What is needed to correct this condition?
do I need to replace crash sensors or switches when fixing a deployed air bag? where are they located on the vehicle and can I get them from local auto parts store? 2004 Ford Freestar Van.
2004 Ford Freestar van, after removing both headlights and replacing, my right headlight comes on dim and windshield washer pump runs. I don't see any wires plugged in wrong. Any ideas? How can I trace this problem? stumped.
I have an electrical problem on a 2004 Ford 250 4X4 with a 5.4 engine. The battery is not charging - replaced alternator and still not charging plus the gauges not working. I had it on a diagnostic machine and it said the PCM was bad. I replaced it and the problem is still there. Please can you help me... Thank you.
Installed a new alternator, battery is GOOD. Dying when driving. After installing new alternator, and charging battery twice for 2+ hours each time; start engine, but when remove the negative (or positive) battery cable engine dies. 4.6
NOT sure what's causing the issue and HATE to take it to the Dealership.
Thanks in advance for any troubleshooting tips or remedies with the same problem.
JUST started and died twice while driving. (2) jump starts started the engine, but soon died - after about 3 minutes of idling.
NO engine codes
I am working on a 2002 Ford Ranger. What is wrong when the fuse blows every time you put vehicle in drive?
I have changed the speed sensor and ,I have changed cluster and my speedometer still doesn't work can anyone help
I have a 2000 exposition that when I put it in any gear it won't move it feels like it wants to. This this truck has never had any hint of a problem with the transmission I was thinking that maybe it could be the four wheel drive selector switch or maybe the tranfer case pump. The truck still starts fine and it seems like it wants to go but it just won't. Please if u have any suggestions or have experienced this same problem and have fixed it let me know what u did to fix it or what I should do to fix it. On yeah I believe the engine is a 5.4 Triton. Thank u for any help u may give me.
bogs down and power loss, kicked in and out at first then gradually got worse to constantly. now wont start, need a few suggestions to check besides to hook up to computer.
1996 ford f-250 351 windsor efi 12volts to coil loses volts
noise coming from front of vehicle while moving, after replacing left front hub bearing.
We have a 1995 Ford truck F-250 4x4 351 5.8l engine. it died as we were driving. when we tried to restart it either wouldn't or it ran for a minute or two and was extremely rough before dying again.
My tranny made a noise like a rock hitting a metal pole.the engine light code read as torque conversion clutch.when i removed the tranny pan two pieces fell out n i saw a metal piece broke.i dont know what the piece is so i cant replace it.any suggestions on what it could be? It still shifts n drives like it should
While pulling my boat my brakes started grabing and locking up ..front rotors got hot locked not solid but I had no brakes. Got it to a friend's house. We changed rotors, calipers, brake lines, and master cylinder. Bleed a quart and a half of fluid through the lines front and back..still have no peddle or brakes ? Anyone have a suggestion. .I'm stumped
'94 E350 460 RV Cutaway Motorhome. With no warning, after always starting and running good, I shut it off, 2 hours latter, I hit the starter, the engine seemed to try to fire for an split instant, and then cranks good, easy, smooth, but won't start. Spark ok at distributor output, seems to be no gas. When ignition is turned to the on position, for a moment the fuel pump relay activates ok and 12volts through fuel inertia shutoff switch (located behind panel in front of right side door) is ok.
I hear no noise or feel no vibration with my hand on top of the gas tank as my partner turns the ignition on and off with my volt meter connected to the downside of that switch, reading 12 volts momentarily each time the ignition is turned to the on position or the crank position. A diagram I found online shows the 12 volts from the fuel relay directly through the shutoff switch and then directly on to the fuel pump.
There is a threaded fitting welded to the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve stem threaded tip) and when I press the pin inside, as the engine is cranking, there is no gas present.
There is also a fuel pressure regulator devise welded or bolted to the entrance of the fuel rail with the gas tank line feeding it and a vacuum line attached to the top. Removing that line, cranking the engine, I feel some suction with my finger.
I can't figure out how to open the fuel line anywhere, even at the fuel filter attached to the frame thinking I may jump the contacts of the fuel relay and see if gas flows from the open line. Can't figure those hose clamps out.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to what my next steps should be. Very appreciative. Wilson
Subject is starter cylinoid: question is where does the fuse linke wire go to the positive an negative side of the cylinoid) electrical: A retired auto man said he knew old school cylinoid installation so I let him install a new 496 starter cylinoid in my truck (It was the only one that the Auto Zone computer picture even looked like mine so it should be right I am not sure the exact motor # I have, it might be a 460 motor? It is larger than the vans. It seems to me that a good guess would be the negative side but I wanted to check with you first. A guess answer from you Will be a blessing as to which one just makes sense.
After he finished I discovered he had left the "fuse linke" wire out and he said he could not remember which side the positive or negative that it went. I have asked so many and they say they don't know.
(after trial and error sessions and two batteries later) He had damaged the wire by sitting the battery back on it a few times we think. He fixed the wire.
The positive attachment try led to smoke and a quick detachment of the wire to the battery the negative side gave nothing, but found out later that his screw was a little loose to the cylinoid, so tighten that.
By now you know this left me in a real tight spot and with my truck being a 1976.
the only manual I have, which is the original, is no help.
My trucks name is "Old Birtha" and I would really appreciate any help or suggestions. The mechanics I
have talked to just either don't want to deal with it or just don't know.
The truck was starting good and when it then did not want to start the starter was still trying so it is not the starter. All I think is well except attaching that XXXXXX wire where it belongs. Can I do any damage by trying it on the negative side because the screw was loose when we tried before?
You were so helpful with my 98 olds By the way to solve that problem I finally replaced the wire cluster
to the main computer and that worked! I have a problem with the sensor to the coolant system and found it is not the sensor but a wire to the sensor so I have disconnected the sensor until I can fix the wire SOON. I lets me drive the car and the fans come on which was the problem with my over heating.
just thought I would mention it unless somebody needs that little information.
I look forward to hearing from you wise and talented ones soon.
jly and "Old Birtha" Have a blessed day!
I have a 1990 Ford F150 4.9 2wd 5 speed Truck
I currently have to start the truck by the solenoid and when I get it cranked when the clutch is let out it shuts off
I recently bought a 94 Ford Ranger, its seemingly in pretty good running condition, but the electrical system is not working properly. The dash lights are very dim, in fact you can only see the speedometer at night and not very well. I'm not too worried about the dash lights although that would be nice to have fixed, but the cigarette lighter doesn't work and that is a big deal for me. So I first went to check the fuses and the fuse the cigarette lighter uses was fine, but when I had the cover to the fusebox off I noticed one of the breakers was sparking, looking closer I realized when I took the fuse box cover off the metal cover to the breaker came off with it. Well not knowing much about cars I thought I would leave the cover to the fuse box and breaker off until I could look up some more info on the problem. Last night driving home the fuse box started sparking slightly and I noticed as it was doing this that my headlights were twitching in and out, I don't think they would turn completely off, but would fluctuate from being very bright to very dim, a minute later the sparking and twitching seemed to stop, but you could smell a faint smell of burnt plastic. Is this a serious problem I should be having checked out right away, or am I to blame for leaving the fuse box cover and cover to circuit breaker off and will the problem stop if I simply put the covers back on? Trying to put the circuit breaker cover back on the circuit started sparking as soon as the metal cover touched it, being unsure if I was screwing something up worse I didn't put that cover back on.
I need to know if this is a serious problem that I should look into further, but what I'm still more concerned about is getting the cigarette lighter to work. I found nothing in the owners manual except to check the fuse, which I did and it seems to be fine. I saw a video on youtube on how to fix car cig lighters in general and you needed to pull apart the dash/console to get behind the cigarette lighter and remove some small metal ring. Anyone know anything about this, will it work or cause me more problems? Wanted to get some feedback before attempting to do the process showed in the video.
Thank you for any advice anyone could give me, it would be greatly appreciated!
My 1998 ford expedition theft light is flashing and my truck won't start, there is also an beeping noise.PLEASE HELP......
have a 2002 ford f250 need a
Has anyone heard of the term "beaming" 2015 F250 long box?
I have a 2002 ford f 250, when i turn the key on you hear a buzzing noise when started if you apply the brakes and or turn on blinkers the noise goes away, but comes back when you let off brake or turn blinkers off. any help would be great Thank You.
I don't understand your question. your 4wd switch should affect your transfer case and the front hubs. high gear to me is talking about your automatic transmission overdrive gear. So, are you saying that your transmission is stuck in overdrive? That it no longer downshifts to lower gears when you come to a stop and accelerate from a stop? are you talking about 4wd or 4wd low? Need more information.
yes, you have to pour very slowly. the fluid has to go down the skinny dipstick tube to get into the trans. it's like filling your coke glass through the straw. if you fill too fast it will just back up in the tube and come back out. also, the engine should be running so the fluid will circulate as you fill the trans.
lets start from the beginning. why are you checking your egr system?
if you have had it scanned and got a code, what was the code or codes you had?
If you have a vacuum operated egr valve, connect the egr valve to a vacuum pump (or manifold vacuum) and apply vacuum to the egr valve. When the egr valve opens it should make the engine run very rough. Sometime it will be so bad the engine will die. That's a good egr valve. If the engine does not run really rough of if it doesn't make much difference than the normal idle, you have a bad egr valve or the egr ports are plugged up.
If you have a scanner that you can hook up and look at the data stream, look at the readings for the PFE or DPFE. then do the test of the egr valve. the PFE or Dpfe readings should change a lot as the egr valve opens. A lot of times the dpfe sensor will plug up and not see when the egr valve opens.
I don't understand when you say "checked ohm readings on all voltage points and they are all in operating range" I would need to know what you are measuring and what you are expecting to see so I can follow your diagnosing.
Greetings! I just know one of ya'll can help me with the issue I have been having with my 1970 F-100. I picked the truck up recently and am going to get it like a new one, haha, but I have noticed that after the initial start and I shut her off, it acts like there isn't enough juice to turn her over, like the starter is dragging and just when I am about to get the jumper cables,. whoom! fires up. Same things on the initial start, fires right up, like a champ. I have replaced everything, the battery, the voltage regulator, the relay, the starter, which when brought to my attention in another forum, did NOT have a heat shield and I am probably going to add forthright, but it seems like it must be something more than that. Could a bad cable get hot and maybe not conduct electricity properly? About the only things I haven't replaced are the cables because they "looked" like they were relatively new but, maybe that's the problem. Anyway, I would appreciate any experienced input on this as IT IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!, lol
what is a MAP sensor?
2002 ford ranger XLT....Yesterday morning, the battery was dead, put charger on it, it started right up, and I drove around awhile, then this morning come out and it won't start, I put charger on it, Charger said it was a good, (Charged). I had to leave charger on it for a few minutes, Before it would turn over and start. I drove around the block, went inside for 5 minutes, Came out and it wouldn't start, nothing, Just click click click. Cables are all clean and tight. it is as simple as a needing a new battery? the battery is rather old.......Funny this happened when the weather turned really cold?
My ignition module keeps burning up . I put new distripitor in ?
My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
Drain and flush and re-service.
Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
Removed supply hose and ran coolant to help purge trapped air.
Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.
Check operation of heater control valve, works.
Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
My background is no car experience, I am a helicopter mechanic and if this was an AH64 I would be done by now. SO please take it easy on a rookie shade tree mechanic.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump someone please talk me out of that.
My left front wheel bearing is bad. I'm handy(do most of my own maint/repairs) but I've never attempted this task. Is my bearing sealed?(rear wheel drive), if not then, Is this something I can do at home? Or is does the bearing need to be pressed in professionally?
even the spare tire? Some vehicle look at all five tires.
A shop can use a tool and see if all the tire monitors are working and sending out a signal
2006 Ford F150 5.4
My parking brake light came on, and a few weeks later my ABS light came on. Now both lights are on, brakes seem to be working fine.
Brake fluid levels are fine.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 4 wheel drive. What can cause a spark plug to get loose and get damaged?
The trailer and brake lights have stopped working. Fuses under dash check good. Under the hood are two boxes. One next to firewall has a large relay and two smaller ones. The other box has two of the large relays. The smaller ones click when the turn signals are on. Changed all relays in this box still nothing at plug. Vehicle is a 2004 f250 with a 5.4 motor. Need help
I have a 1989 ford f150 4x4 that has the older type front locking hubs and the problem is that when I lock the hubs and engage it into 4 wheel drive it runs fine in a straight line but as soon as I turn in either direction the vehicle starts to sort of lunge or jump around. Any solutions to my problem would be greatly appreciated.
Greetings and thank you for adding me as a new member.
I have a reoccurring brake problem on my 2005 Ford Club Van that happens only during the winter when temperatures dip below about 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
I will be driving the van for a few minutes without any brake issues.
Suddenly without warning when I want to slow or stop, I find that the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor with no braking ability. Holding the pedal to the floor or pumping the brake causes the abs to pulsate but is no help in stopping the van. After a short time, seconds usually, the pedal returns to its normal height and the brakes work as usual. At no time do any brake warning lights come on the dash. I may go five minutes or 25 minutes without any more brake problems but the brake pedal will suddenly without warning go all the way to the floor again with no stopping ability.
After the last time it happened I called my mechanic from the side of the road (he is very respected and has been in business for over 50 years) and explained the situation. After the pedal returned to normal, He had me hold my foot on the brake pedal to find that the pedal is not spongy and does not slowly sink to the floor. He also had me check the brake fluid to find that the fluid is full and topped off. He said my explanation is not possible.
Again, this only happens on e or twice a year when the temperatures dip below about 15 degrees. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
without a scanner you are limited in what you can diagnose. When it is not starting you can check for spark, for injector pulse and for fuel pressure. Fuel pressure on this truck should be 35-45 psi key on engine off (KOEO)
If you can get your hands on a scanner you can check much more. If you can hook up a scanner to the truck you can check for communication to the powertrain control module (PCM) If you have a no communication problem you should verify your grounds to the PCM or possibly a bad PCM.
If you do get communication with the PCM see if it reads an rpm signal while you are cranking. See if there are any codes stored in memory like crank sensor signal.
do you have a "theft" light that comes on when you first put the key into the run position? It should blink about three times and then stay off. If it blinks continually or stays on solid, you should look at your anti-theft system
Why does my truck viberate when it shifts?
Im working on a 2006 f150 with 5.4 triton engine. The engine turned when i was takeing it a part had 2 plugs brake off in the head after Igot them out and started putting the engine back together wont turn. Put the timing chain on but dont have rockers in yet
Is there a common link between the turn signals, cruise control and trip computer? A few weeks ago they started sporadically working. When one was not working neither were the others and if one was working they all were. I would set the cruise control and after some time it would shut down. I noticed that the trip computer was not on and also the turn signals did not work. At first it was once in a while and they would come back on. Eventually they all three quit working. I have been through every fuse in the fuse panel below the steering wheel and they are all good. I have not noticed anything else that is not functioning properly.
I have a 1992 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat 5.0 extended cab and it acts like I'm not pressing the clutch fully when shifting into 1st to 2nd and grinds a little into 3rd, to 4th and 5th are fine. When I'm stopped or rolling with clutch pressed and in gear it feels like it is trying to go making it sluggish and pulling.. Even in reverse. ?
Last Monday my neighbor broke down on the interstate. We gave her a jump only to discover she was out of fuel. On the way back with fuel for her car, my husband was driving our Expedition when it suddenly shut off and would not start again. When we go to start it, it tries to turn over but it seems that it's not getting fuel. We have checked the inertion switch, the fuel reset switch, the fuel rails, and looked for days for the fuel driver module that was no where to be found. We had it placed on the computer today and no codes popped up. We called the dealership and they said they could look at it for a hearty price. My husband just had surgery last Friday and is out of work for a month now, which means less of an income, so we are trying to avoid taking it to the dealership. I have a friend who will fix it for the price of the part if we can find the problem. What can the issue be? Please help! I need this vehicle so I can transport my children safely as our second vehicle does not have enough seats and my husband cannot drive for the next month.
Going down the road it will start running choppy then completely shut down. We replaced the fuel pump, ignition switch and when hooked to computer all it says is secondary fuel circuit relay. We changed the one in the box under the hood. Help please
My 98 expeditions brake light came on in the dash board and petal going to the floor. I checked fluid and its fine and brakes were replaced early may what iswrong?
i have a 93 ford ranger xlt 2wd with a 4.0 in it and when i drive it it will miss really bad bout 50 and shake really bad but when i give it a little bit more gas it smoothes out and ive chaned the plugs and wires and it still is doing it so what could be makeing it do it
My trans is making a bad grinding sound in the bellhousing area and the fluid is burnt.won't go in any gear but reverse.overdrive light was flashing before it went out. Some one said it was a bad torque converter
will a steering column from a 1998 ford expedition fit a 1996 ford F150
Expedition, yr=2000, 5.4L, 4x4 auto, 110k miles, Cruise control, Vehicle location is Northern California wine country.
Brake Fade. Truck normally driven each day. Parked 2 weeks (I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem). Symptom. When braking at a constant pressure the pedal fades to the floor. If I press more quickly, I get more braking. I had the brake master cylinder replaced with a new OEM spec'd part. Same problem. Another new brake master and the symptoms remain. There is zero fluid leaking anywhere.
It seems like there is a valve that is allowing fluid to pass back and not out to the calipers. This leakage seems to be a specific volume as there is a particular rate which I can press the pedal and it goes steadly to the floor with no change in braking force. I press a bit faster and I get braking force but not 100% of the force prior to this problem.
1999 mercury mountaineer the air bag light was on and it had a B1994 code. now the light has gone off and a warning beeper comes on. you can remove the air bag diagnose fuse and the beeper stops, this fuse also operates the a/c heater blowers. I have taken steering wheel off, but have stopped at the adapter wheel for the wiring harness. my book does not show to take it off. I'm I on the right track. Thanks for your help. You helped me with the rough idling when cold, I replaced the intake gaskets as you advised.
My 88 Ford f150 will start with some help from gas in the throttle body, and pumping, will run as long as I keep pumping, makes a loud pop sound under hood, tries to bog down and then dies, also the rear anti lock light came on when it started giving me problems and is still on, I've replaced all 3 fuel pumps, regulator. Inline filter,4 injectors on driver side, cap and rotor, wires and plugs, alternator, starter, checked all vacuum lines, before it started running ruff I did do an fi cleaning, then about 2 months later started running weird then about 3 months later stopped running
Could someone please give me am idea of what is Wong with my truck. The whole dash behind steering wheel is out. I checked the fuses. No luck. Nothing works. The compass up above near roof light works, radio works and ac. This is a diesel ford excursion 03.
my ac is plowing hot air only.99 f350 ford supper duty diesel.thanks
Hey there I got a 93 manual Ford ranger 2wd 3.0 I just changed the slave cylinder and got everything back together took the shifter off to put in gear oil and now the shifter won't go in any gear it seems to be In neutral but when I crunk it up and let off the clutch it wants to pull do you have any advice I'd appreciate it
the truck was running and the starter went bad I replace the starter and now the truck wont start it seemed like the starter was binding up put shims in and it was doing the same thing I replaced the starter solenoid on fire wall still same thing I tested the motor to see if it seized but the motor is fine I can turn over by hand I changed relays and all does anyone have any idea what could be the problem
I tried accelerating and it shut off and all the lights on the dashboard came on. I lost power steering too, which I assume is because it turned off. I replaced the alternator 2 years ago so I don't think it's that.. I pulled over to the side of the road and waited a few minutes and it started back up but then the same thing just happened.
i turn the ignition on and hear nothing but relays popping and no crank. i turned the ignition and held it on for about a minute and heard the relays popping and saw some idiot lights flicker and it actually cranked and started for a brief second then died. the battery has been tested , i've replaced starter relay and ignition fuses-nothing. this is a 2002 ford f-250
will transmission from a 1999
work in a 2000 is there any differance
I have a Ford f150 5.4l 2005. I just did a motor swap with a motor that has 26000 miles on it. When the motor is cold it runs and sounds great. As it warms up there is a pulsating sound like a ufo (only way to explain). I changes out tensioner and put new serpentine belt. Could this possibly be my bearing going out on my alternator pulley? Please help I'm done sinking money into this thing!
I have a 1999 mercury mountaineer 4.0 sohc v6 engine. it is hard to start and runs rough in cold weather until engine warms up, acts like old carb engine that the choke does not work on. has no codes logged. I have tried to check the iat sensor, but there is not one in the intake pipe where the book that i have says it should be. truck has alot of miles on it, but runs good when it warms up and does not use any oil. can anyone help me/ thanks
I have a 1990 Ford Bronco 302 aod transmission.. has 95000 miles truck runs great except when takeoff goes into gear perfectly but when in first gear you have to give it at least half throttle to go and its very slow and sluggish untill it shifts to second gear then it drives great and when take off down hill its drives normal no problems any ideas why this is happening
My 2002 Ford winstar blew the timing chain, I have been told by many people it would be cheaper to replace my vehicle than it would be to fix it, and that normally when the timing chain goes so do multiple other things. Is
1999 lincoln navigator having problems starting in cold weather
This is maybe more a generic question for older vehilces rather than just for the 78 e150. I get a clicking noise when I try to start the engine. I applied voltage to the s (small termminal) and the solenoid seems to click but no starter. When I put a temporary short across the two heavy amp connections, should the starter not start cranking? Instead I get a spark and a heating up screw driver. Any suggestions on the problem here. Appreciate you help. Thanks in advance.
3.8L engine. Initially getting codes P0301, P0302, P0303 and P0172. Idle is smooth but the van will not go over 40MPH. The engine shakes under load and the check engine light flashes. Plugs and wires are good and I just replaced the coil pack. The van does have a small exhaust leak, but that is not a new thing. MAF is ok. I cleared the codes and drove the van until the engine light came on, now it shows P0300. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated.
Put in 4 high light says in 4x4and will move but its not in 4x4 when put in 4 low its like putting truck in neutral is five speed with manual. Hubs don't matter what gear just revs but light stays on in either one like suppose to if it was workin any idea what it is
i have a 2006 ford f-150 4.2 liter it starts in the morning but not at night acks like it not in gear please help :cry: :cry:
I have a 2002 ford explorer xlt, the 4x4 module box was gone. I replaced it and now it still won't go into 4x4. Any help as to why? sorry no indicator light on either as to what it is in, 4x4 auto- 4 low-4high none showing.
Any help appreciated.
The truck starts fine but when you turn the headlights on, it dies. Battery reads 14 volts. When you turn on the lights, left headlight is bright and right is dim. Right turn signal also comes on.
I HAVE A 2000 FORD EXPEDITION. WHEN I TURN MY WHEEL (USE TO BE ONLY RIGHT, BUT NOW BOTH WAYS) SHARP/HARD I HEAR A BUILDING WHINE (OR SOME SORT OF NOISE) THEN IT POPS. NOT JUST THAT IT MAKES A POP NOISE I CAN FEEL IT POP. I HAVE CHANGED THE TRANSFER CASE AND CV AXLES PER PEOPLES OPINION. CV AXLE ON THE RIGHT WAS COMPLETELY MESSED UP. BUT MY PROBLEM IS NOT SOLVED. PLEEEEESE HELP :(
i have a ford f 150 1997 with four wheel drive . 2 years ago i had a problem passing the emissions test and ended up getting a egr valve replaced and it passed last year i did not drive 5000 miles so i did not need an emmisions test . so this year i have driven my truck over 15000 miles and will need the test . i have a friend that hooked up the computer to the truck and said there is no light and no codes. he told me i need to drive some more to complete the cycle.. well for 2 years i never had a ck engine light on? and i have driven for at least 500 miles ? dont want to pay the emissions test if i know it will fail ? what should i do?
low in the at rest position or low to engage the trans... Tell me what is different from what would be normal for your truck.
fords have a rubber diaphragm in the clutch master that as soon as you take the cap off you would just pour in the fluid. But, it's not. After you take the cap off look at the master. Is there a rubber seal sitting on the rim of the master? You might have put brake fluid into the back of the diaphragm. Every one else just uses a rubber seal in the top of the cap for their seal but ford's seal goes way down into the master cylinder.
1998 Ranger (3.0) super cab : no signals-left or right, front or back. all lights good, all fuses good, and emergency flashers work. any ideas?
I have a 2002 f150 v6 I was driving on interstate it lost power I coasted to side of road it died I got a p1504 error code tested the circuit it was good replace idle air control valve it started once idled real real ruff not been able to get it to start again please help
that's great Bill. would you like to post your fix so others that have similar problems might be able to benefit from your findings?
Driver side wheel skids when i put on the brakes in the rain. :cry:
ok, when they did their test was the truck cranking over slowly or was it cranking over normally? you need the test results from when it is having the dragging condition. If it is working normal when they check it you will get normal results.
the first test you gave the results for is for starter amp draw. the 260 amps. You have to see how high that number goes when it drags.
To do a voltage drop test you have to measure from the negative post on the battery to the ground at the starter. When you go to start the truck the voltage should stay close to zero. Then you measure from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive cable at the starter. Same test. Voltage drop while cranking should be close to zero. Max should be less than .5v
My power steering pump went out on my ford ranger and I have a ford mustang with a cracked head but what I was wondering is will the power steering pump on my 96 ford mustang fit and work on my 95 or 96 ford ranger the engine in my ford mustang is a 3.8 v6 the engine in my ford ranger is a 3.0 v6 I think
the ABS light is turned on when the ABS computer sees a problem with the Anti-lock Brake System. you should have your vehicle scanned to find out what codes may have been stored
I have a 2003 F-250 7.3L that I am having starting issues with. The problem appears to be related to the position of the gear indicator. A couple of times, when I moved the handle as far to the left in the PARK position the truck would start, now it just will not turn over at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Les.
Here is my Email if u can answer me that way :idea: RDGlover55@comcast.net :arrow:
Slow cranking Bronco
I have thr headlights thats coke with a kit also they both stop working my otherlights work.cant seem to get even high beems to work fuse gud
Hi , I have 1986 Ford Bronco 351W HO. You may have heard of this before but I have ask many people about this and I have got many things that I should do and none have solve the problem so here it is, when I first crank it on any morning or night it cranks fine it doesn’t run hot but when go to the store or gas station and go inside for a few minutes and come back to it cranks slow and slow and slow and then it turn over fast and crank up fine. Now I have a new battery, new cables, new dist, wires, plugs, starter (Mimi tort starter) Control Module, set timing at 10 degrees, new carburetor Holly 650 and none of this has change this at all. Some people say that this is just the way old fords crank but I believe there is something that causes this problem.