2001 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3L Vortec
Repairs= replaced park neutral switch.
Question = I just replaced the park neutral safety switch,turned the ignition
and shifted the transmission.I found that the transmission would not shift into
all the gears.I looked at the gear shift arm on the side of the trans. and
discovered that I put it on upside down.I flipped it back and now I can shift
the truck from park into drive without touching the brake and the truck will not
start. Before I change the switch the truck started. What did I break and how
do I fix it? Please help me. Thank You.
Repairs= replaced park neutral switch.
Question = I just replaced the park neutral safety switch,turned the ignition
and shifted the transmission.I found that the transmission would not shift into
all the gears.I looked at the gear shift arm on the side of the trans. and
discovered that I put it on upside down.I flipped it back and now I can shift
the truck from park into drive without touching the brake and the truck will not
start. Before I change the switch the truck started. What did I break and how
do I fix it? Please help me. Thank You.
Answer: When you say that you put the cable arm on
backwards, do you mean that it was just a matter of turning it to
put it on properly, or that it was on in the wrong clock position-
such as turned 180 degrees from the proper location?
backwards, do you mean that it was just a matter of turning it to
put it on properly, or that it was on in the wrong clock position-
such as turned 180 degrees from the proper location?
VISITOR: I put the arm on backwards,arm pointing down. When I put the arm
on correctly it changed the clock position slightly,but not close to 180 degrees.
Thanks for your reply.
on correctly it changed the clock position slightly,but not close to 180 degrees.
Thanks for your reply.
Answer: OK. A few things. First be sure to check these fuses...
B/U LPS- 25 amps, in the underhood fuse box.
BTSI- 10 amps, in underhood fuse box.
Check the electrical connector at the neutral switch. These are
good for melting. You would have known that because it would
have been really difficult to remove from the original switch.
Even if that is not the case, unplug it and check to make sure
none of the terminals on the switch or connector are bent or
spread apart.
If all this checks out OK, I would bet that the neutral switch is
damaged internally. This may have just blown one of the fuses
above, and/or ruined the switch. With the arm on incorrectly, it
is very possible that the travel of the arm being incorrect may
have caused the switch to overextend internally.
Also, this switch is adjustable since the mounting bolt holes in
the switch are oblong. This may not be your problem, just a
little heads up when you get it back to proper working order. A
way to check the adjustment is to put it in reverse and see if the
reverse lights come on. But this may not be possible with the
problems you have now.
B/U LPS- 25 amps, in the underhood fuse box.
BTSI- 10 amps, in underhood fuse box.
Check the electrical connector at the neutral switch. These are
good for melting. You would have known that because it would
have been really difficult to remove from the original switch.
Even if that is not the case, unplug it and check to make sure
none of the terminals on the switch or connector are bent or
spread apart.
If all this checks out OK, I would bet that the neutral switch is
damaged internally. This may have just blown one of the fuses
above, and/or ruined the switch. With the arm on incorrectly, it
is very possible that the travel of the arm being incorrect may
have caused the switch to overextend internally.
Also, this switch is adjustable since the mounting bolt holes in
the switch are oblong. This may not be your problem, just a
little heads up when you get it back to proper working order. A
way to check the adjustment is to put it in reverse and see if the
reverse lights come on. But this may not be possible with the
problems you have now.
VISITOR: Hi JK,just wanted to let you know that the neutral switch was bad.
Replaced switch and truck started right up. Now I need to research why my
EVAP,SECONDARY AIR and CATALYST READINESS MONITORS won't run
their diagnostics,even though I have performed several drive cycles. The
monitors were my original problem,so I thought my original neutral switch, that
wasn't showing the proper gear the truck was in,might be the problem. What do
think? Thank You very much for your help. Don
Replaced switch and truck started right up. Now I need to research why my
EVAP,SECONDARY AIR and CATALYST READINESS MONITORS won't run
their diagnostics,even though I have performed several drive cycles. The
monitors were my original problem,so I thought my original neutral switch, that
wasn't showing the proper gear the truck was in,might be the problem. What do
think? Thank You very much for your help. Don
