Chevrolet S-10 No Fuel Pressure

Problem with my 1997 S-10 Pickup. Replaced Plugs, wire's, oil change, cap rotor, New fuse, New Relay. Question = My fuel pump won't come on I've tried the fuse the relay I've hit the bottom of the tank thinking the pump may be stuck I've cleaned the ground strap by the tank, I checked the fuel rail while the key was on and while turning it over and there is no fuel there. I'm not sure what to do next any suggestions?

Answer:
Next step would be to lower the tank and check for power at the gray wire of the fuel pump module assembly on top of the tank. This is power feed to pump. Then check resistance of ground wire at that connector to a good body ground. Look closely at the connector and terminals on top of fuel pump module assembly. They are prone to burning. If all checks out, then the fuel pump is bad. Banging on the tank does not always work.

1998 Chevy 1500 Pickup 5.7l Vortec. Replaced fuel pump and relay Question = Truck starts runs if i turn it off and try to restart it will not. I powered up relay it switched but did not start. What could cause this problem

Answer:
Without any additional information, I'm left to just give you some basic guesses. Since you say it starts and runs, but will not restart if you turn it off, it must eventually start again, right? There's plenty of possibilities here, but I'd start with the parts you just changed, like the fuel pump. I would recommend checking fuel pressure when you have the no start condition to see if you're losing that. If so, I'd replace the pump again. You could have a wiring problem, or an intermittent short. Check for spark when it doesn't want to fire, as it could be an ignition module going out. It could even be a PCM issue, but all these things would need to be checked out. Start with the basics, check your steps you did before and make sure everything is good.

Problem with my 2002 Chevy S-10 2wd.
Service engine soon. Battery replaced. It just quit on me. Its like its out of gas. It will cranks over and you can hear the fuel pump and its getting fuel but it just will not start. I'm wondering if it could be the cam position sensor or the ignition coil pack. Lost my job and have a child and mother on oxygen living with me and I have been stranded now for a week. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I cannot afford a donation at this time but put you in my favorites and when I get my unemployment I will be happy to donate.

Answer: Well, with any no start condition, you need to find out what is missing. Are you missing spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse? With the check engine light on, you would need to check for stored trouble codes. If no / low fuel pressure, the fuel pump is a common cause. Just because you hear the pump run, does not mean the pressure is high enough.

This engine needs at least 55 psi. of fuel pressure or the engine will not start. Even a few pounds less, it won't start. Banging on the center of the fuel tank while someone is cranking the engine over will sometimes free-up a sticking / weak fuel pump to allow it to start for a few time. But eventually that won/t work anymore. A no spark condition can be a number of things. Ignition coil, module, crank position sensor etc.

Problem with my 1999 Chevy S-10.
GM tech = mw question = My A/C stopped working. I got the 134a refill with gauge and made sure it was full. Still not working. I went to local auto parts store, they said to take the switch off the (forgot the part name) the cylinder shaped aluminum looking thing that has tubes going in it. (This is also where low pressure hookup is).

They said to take that switch off, put a jumper between the two make connectors and if the compressor stays on, I need to replace that switch. I did what they said, put jumper on, compressor stayed on. I put the new switch on and it did what it did before. Compressor comes on and 2 secs later shuts off. You can hear a little clicking sound also coming from near where that cylinder shape thing is.

Answer:
Jumping the pressure cycling switch helped, but the new switch made no difference. I would look very closely at the wires for that switch. The terminals may be spread apart so they dont make good contact in switch, or the wires are broken right at the connector. Other possibility is that the pressure in the system in incorrect, so that switch disables the system.

By using a jumper wire, you are defeating the purpose of the cycling switch, so it does not know the pressures are wrong, therefore stays running. Need to put gauges on the system, hook everything back up correctly, then see what the pressure are.