Guys I need some help.
I bought a 1994 z71 350 automatic. When the truck sits for a while the parking brake light comes on within the first minute or two of driving. Soon after the light comes on I start having a slight loss in acceration at low rpm. When it gets close to shifting, at higher rpm, I have a complete loss of acceration, almost like it shifts into neutral because it revs up. If I let off the gas it shifts and then the cycle repeats. Then my speedometer starts jumping around. Sometimes my service engine light comes on with it but sometimes it doesn't. The only other problem I have is that the brakes are pretty spongy and the temp gauge hardly budges (I am no expert so I don't know if a faulty temp sensor or such could be related). After it does this and then sits for a while it doesn't do it again. As long as I drive it at least every other day it will not do this. But more than that you can bet that light will come on. When I bought it I replaced the front pads, rotors, cv shafts, fuel filter, oil and filter, air filter, plugs, tps, and knock sensor. I also had a trans shop replace all the trans seals and gaskets plus filter. I'm out of ideas. Thanks in advance for the advice.
I just got chev 2008 silverado 1500 and airbag light is on but has not been deployed, it was in accident in rear bumper will I have to get new censor or can I get it reset or could it be something else?
you're going to need to look at the freeze frame data for your code. once you see where it is acting up, you will need to drive with a scanner hooked up and graphing your dtat stream. See it there is a glitch in your TPS circuit. Make sure to watch toy TPS voltage when you let off the throttle. See if you can notice if the TPS voltage stays too high. Should drop below 1.0 volt when you let off the gas pedal. If there are any drop outs check you wiring to the TPS.
I am at the Hair pulling stage and I don't have much left! Please help!
I have a no crank situation with my 98' chevy 2500 5.7 vortec. It started right up yesterday; I drove to bank ran in and out, truck would not start. 30 minutes later it started. I then drove home, ran in grabbed something and it would not start again. 30 minutes later it started. I drove to store it would not restart, towed it home to my shop where it sits now. I have gone through all the usual steps of testing everything from the key up to the starter. Here is what I have so far:
1) Remote switch to starter and it cranks. Bench test starter not necessary at this point I believe.
2) multi meter to S post on starter, key to ignition position, meter shows 11.2 volts at S post, key off meter shows 0 volts.
3) swapped out starter relay with brand new one, no changes. Tested both sides of relay block(constant and key on) 12.9 volts.
4) Security system light does go out after 5 seconds, so that is not issue, I think?
5) adjusted neutral safety switch every which way, no change. tried to start in neutral, no change.
It would appear that from the key to the starter all the power is where it should be!???? What am I missing???
Many Thanks In Advance!!!!!!
I have a 1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 5.7 engine. the distributor keeps arcing to the coil. I replaced the coil, but now its doing it again. Any sugestions?? Does the ignition coil on my truck need to be grounded??
5.3 clyinder 6 will show miss fire Afta truck is at 210 also rite before fan turns on steaming at tail pipe when fan cuts off temp goes down steam stops and miss fire comes in pull no. 6plug put new in runs great till starts steaming agin at 210 !!!! all lifters changed solenoid plate oil pump and pickup tub clean has just been done,!! I beleave there has to be a crack in head mabe block Cly. 6
I have a 2000 chevy silverado and i did an engine swap from a 4.3L motor to a 5.3L. But the engine i installed its from a chevy 2004 and bu the time i was finished with my truck, i noticed that the gauges weren't working. I turned my truck on and none of the gauges weren't working not even the RPM. So i connected my computer scanner to see wat it was and as soon i plug my scanner on the PED connection, the gauges started working and i disconnect the scanner and it stopped working. I already cheked all the ground wires and i doubled check if i had missed a harness connection but everything was connected fine.. I already have like 3 weeks and i cant find a solution to fix the gauges.
My father have 2008 Chevy Silverado and I am thinking to buy one more vehicle which is just for me, but I am a little bit confused about that, should I buy Used vehicle or New 2014 Chevy Silverado both have some advantages and disadvantages.
can somebody please tell me how to put a o-ring on the dipstick tube, I have to do it myself and I want to do it right!
Did a transmission swap on a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4. Now won't start. I'm thinking it has something to do with the neutral safety switch. Any suggestions?
Having trouble w my truck gauges. Truck will turn on but rpm, speed gauges wont and tranny will not shift on its own. Gauges and tranny will sometimes turns on and turn off while im driving
I have an 03 silverado 5.3l v8. Ac problems. Last year, my compressor (I'm assuming) would cause my ac tensioner to knock and broke 2 belts. Assuming bad compressor, I left the belt of and dealt with the heat. This year, I tried again and put a new belt on. Knocking was gone. Freon was low and I unscrewed high side valve and it flew off. Realized I had a leak at the high side valve. I then changed the valve, orifice, and accumulator. Evacuated system with pump. System helda vacuum. Refilled freon (only one can put it in the green which according to autozone is way less than what the system should hold). Blew cold at idle. As soon as I drove off, it stopped blowing cold, only slightly cool. Clutch stays on as it should. The old orifice looked like it had metal dust on it. Could it be sensor or compressor? I have the dual manual climate controls inside. Also, my truck seems to be getting low on coolant lately. Not sure if that could be related. I don't have check engine light. Please help
i step on brakes to come to a stop. and the brake pedal resists. and feels like truck dont want to stop. so i force it down and it agreesively stops . dont do it when i am slowing drown only when coming to a stop (i.e. stop lights, parking, etc. what is it where is it to be fixed and what does this job all intales was told absspeed sensor. was told there are only one and then told there are three.
Ive got a 1986 1ton 4- speed 350 vortec completly rebuilt....have steering problems and now have fluid coming from drivers hub? Also having drivline problems cuz of 8 inch body lift
I have a 2001 silverado had a 4.8 changed the 4.8 to a 5.3 also used the 5.3 harness and ecu, want start; turns over fire it's like it fires off and dies, any help would be awesome.
I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 .When you turn on the blower for the AC or the heater you can hear the blower running but no air comes out of the vents. Is there a relay or sensor that could be bad? Air does come out of the top vents when defrost is on. Air comes out of bottom vent also. 10 amp fuse for ac/heater is good.
A friend took his 1996 Chevy 2500 to a dealership to have the front drivers side axle seal replaced In doing so the dealership managed to ruin axle and the adjusting nut for ring gear. He said that he used a slide hammer which i dont believe, then he cut the mounting plate off the axle, and then Mutilated the nut with a punch and hammer. Which cost him and extra 600 dollars. I think He ruined the nut with the torch. then he tried to explain that he put a puller on the axle which makes absolutely no scents what are you going to pull off of? he said that the plate was cracked I can guess how that happened, Any thoughts? Thanks
I'm getting a high pitch air pressure release noise like an , "Air Brake" from someplace in the front of the engine. It happens when the AC is engaged, defrost also. It doesn't do it when AC is off. Noise happens in an instant at rev RPM in park or during acceleration on the road. The AC pressures are all on specs and there have never been any problems with the compressor or system parts in the past. The compressor clutch cycles as it should. All lines are cold and hot as they should be to the touch during cycle. This started midway through last summer. The AC blows cold 40 degree air on the hottest most humid days. This noise is loud enough it turns heads when I'm passing people on the street. Hope somebody can help me out soon. :? :x :roll:
What would cause less fuel mileage? I have a 2012 Canyon with the 3700 Vortec engine. I have noticed that I used to get very good mileage and now it seems that it has gone way down. No engine light has come on, the smell of gas comes in the cab when first started. I have sent it to the dealer and they say that there is nothing wrong with the mileage but I know different. They think the mileage is normal. They can't read with the computer because no light has come on. I used to be able to go up to the cottage and about a quarter of the way back on a tank. The cottage is about 515km (roughly 300m) and the tank is about 66L (roughly 20gal), so about 640kms (roughly 375m) I used to get. Now I only get about about 380kms (roughly 220m) on a tank. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Also what should my rpm's be at when running on the highway anywhere from 100 - 120kms (60 - 80ms)?
I have 4.3 V6 motor. I haven't heard of a crank relearn.
got a mechanical question for you, got a 94 chevy k1500 with a 5.7 v8 with throttle body injection, boggs down at stops and when accelerating basically anytime there is a load on the engine, fine when in park or neutral, replaced spark plugs, wires, coil, air and fuel filter, oil change, and idle air control valve. still does it not as bad but still does it, there is no cat to get clogged but the muffler does have a hole in it
I just had some warranty work done on my truck. I had to change the throttle body sensor and the evap sensor. As I was pulling out of the dealer the engine light came on again, turned around and got them to check the code. The mechanic showed me the computer and it said that piston 8 is misfiring. He suggested changing the plugs first and see if that fixes the problem. He also said that if that doesn't work than change the wires, if that doesn't work than the problem is deaper. Do I trust this guy and start with plugs or could it be something else wrong? Also what would be the side effects of letting this go too long?
tv cable adjustment for a "89" silverado 5.7l ?
I was driving home other night in the snow when all the rear lights in my 1993 chevy silverado just stopped working my father checked fuses and looked at wire couldn't see a reason why this would have happend. desprately need it fixed
For the past few weeks, when the temperatures have been in the single digits, my key fob would not actuate the door lock on the driver's door. Once temps warmed up a bit,
it worked. This past Friday as I was driving to work, nothing at the module worked; locks, windows, mirror, etc., and hasn't since.
I pulled the module and attempted to test for power. I am getting battery voltage at the 4-wire connector toward the front of the module, at the orange wire (#2) and have
continuity between ground and the black wire (#4).
Because of the size of the wires, I have to assume this is the connector I should be checking, prior to replacing the module. Am I correct?
Any help is deeply appreciated.
I have a 2000 Chevy 1500 truck runs great it just take 3 times turning it over before it will crack have know idea what it could be
It will start and idle or run for a few minutes then die and not restart for hours.
My 94 Chevy is leaking oil in it looks like 4 different places. I have oil under my truck and behind the passenger front tire. Its been idleing bad and when I am stopped and start to push the gas it jerks when it takes off a few times. It has a hard time gassing up hills and acts like it doesn't want to go at first when I press the gas pedal. If i push the break or let off the gas for a little bit, it automatically dies. And takes about two to three times to get it back cranked and I immediately have to press the gas to keep it running. There is also a rattling noise under the hood when I am pressing the gas but immediately stops when I take my foot off the pedal. Can anyone tell me what the problem may be?
I have a 84 Chevy 4x4 with a 350. It will start but no idle or drive. I have replaced all most everything but the motor and tranny. help don't wanna sell her. Thx Cheyenne. :cry:
Hi folks brand new here. I've got a weird situation with my buddies 02 silverado 2wd. It seems his engine/tranny slid back(?) against his fire wall. It looks fine under the hood to me as far as position except the passenger side rear spark plug wire is definitely touching fire wall. Then again, I'm not real familiar with this truck so I have no point of reference. He was getting on the freeway at about 35mph when he heard a thud and pulled over. He was able to limp it along home but tranny makes noise at above 25 - 30 mph. as well he now has no reverse. I looked under the rear cross member where the tranny mount is bolted to xmember and the washer seems to have moved back about 3/8". I jacked up the truck and then put a jack (carefully) under the engine to see if the rubber on the front mounts had seperated and had caused the engine/tranny to move but both sides seemed ok. The driver side did look separate but when jacking under engine, the whole front end lifted, telling me that the rubber hadn't separated. Also, the u joint had a dab tranny fluid on it. So, uhhhhhh? Anyone?
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado I bought at the end of September and if has been running great, til last night. I got in it to head to work, I started it up, and the idle was REALLY rough, I turned off the motor, gave it a moment and started it up again. This time the idle was really fairly smooth, but the check engine light was on, not flashing, just on steady. The idle was only at between 500 and 600 rpm. I got to work, did my shift and this morning when I started it up, it was just slightly rough and the idle was fine at about 750 rpm. I got home, parked, turned it off, came up to my computer in the apartment, did some searching on the subject and saw something about some part places having the scanners to diagnose possible troubles. I went back out to the truck, inserted the key, and she cranked away, but wont start. she's got 3/4 tank of gas. Any idea's? Similar experiences???
My 97 will not start if after trying to start I let the key return before it starts, once doing so all it will do is just crank and crank with no sign of starting. The check engine light will come on. Disconnecting the battery for several days (4) it started once connected again, the time before it was close to a month. Thanks for any help
Ok I have a 4.8 vortec left bank is not fireing I changed wirers plugs pulled injectors and cleaned them I checked volts on injector plug 7.8 I have good spark and compression now what. This is a 2003 chevy 1500. I did not check fuel pressure but when I pushed in where gauge hooks up it blew out off there heavy.
I just bought a 2002 Silverado 2500 and after I drive it a few miles the Reverse quits working. I can let the truck sit about 10 minutes and Reverse will work again, until it is driven again for a few miles. Could this be a sensor or ??????
scrap it and go buy a FORD :lol:
Rebuilt throttle body, previous mech, did not solve problem, excesive fuel and failure to advance timing are causing engine to backfire also I need to verify firing order .
I'm having trouble with interference on AM stations only. Suggestions? Solutions?
you're going to need to scan your instrument cluster. there have been instances where the wire harness out in the hood area rubs through. Also there are times where the soldered pin on the circuit board breaks loose. But by scanning the cluster you can see what the reading are doing.
I have a 1991 chevy c 1500 with a 305 engine it will start and idle great when cold as it warms up it will stall if i disconnect the water sensor it goes back to high idle like its cold i changed the sensor but it still does the same thing what else can i try
high idle could be from a couple of things, coolant temp sensor reading too cold or it could be a vacuum leak. there may be other things but I would look at those two first. Either one could also affect smog inspection. Why didn't you say what your truck was failed for? High hydrocarbons? High CO? of what does your state look at for to pass?
Fuel pressure and volume could be a possibility. Hows the O2 sensor trims? LT (long term) and ST (short term) fuel trims will tell you how the exhaust gases are being interpreted by your computer and in effect how your computer feeds your engine.
If your service engine light came on you should have your truck scanned to see what the code or codes are and go from there.
I have a 93 chevy C1500 with TBI. While driving check engine light comes on. Until the code is erased, idle engine speed fluctuates and eventually shuts off. The code says bad O2 sensor. Don't believe this is the problem since I've replaced it twice. Also, the fuel pump has been replaced twice, plugs, wires, distributor cap rotter and coil, EGR valve, MAP sensor, TP Sensor, cleaned off all engine grounds and none of that fixed the problem. Any other suggestions?
does it go bright and dim with the engine rpm? Or when you are driving at a steady speed it does it? Does it still do it if the lights are on and the engine is not running? Trying to see if it tied to the alternator output or if there is a draw in the circuit.
A year of the truck would determine what kind of instrument cluster and lights you have.
My 95 1500 Chevy is having problem. The air bag light comes on when I accelerate, the battery gauge on the instrumen cluster maxes out, the interior and exterio lights get brighter when I accelerate. Also, their is a wining noise that comes from the alternato when I press on the accelerato. Does anyone have a clue of what this could be?
did you check and clean your battery cable connections?
any codes stored in memory? Freeze frame? have you looked for misfires with a scanner? What are your fuel trims? how's your fuel pressure regulator? check it for a leak to vacuum?
2004 Chevy Silverado stuck in Limp Mode. I have replaced 1/2 and 2/3 relays and still have problem. What should I check now? Had codes of P0300 and P0753.
I have a 96 z71 it ran good until it was envoled in a wreck on driver side now just test drove it first time after i fixed it and the trans is acting up shifts in to 1/2 but 2/3 shifts hard and it shifted into overdrive once but it went right back out. Now it wont shift into overdrive had to do some heavy fixing replaced the driver finder, hood, grill, headlights, interfinder well, radiator, clutch fan, and radiator support and driver door. What is worng with my truck?
this is a tough one. Intermittent power loss could be a bunch of different things. electrical, mechanical, fuel pressure... you will need to have the problem happen while you have a scanner or an electrical circuit tester box attached to see what happens when the problem occurs.
check for codes to see what the computers are looking for. Ecm, Bcm, Abs.