About a month ago, when trying to turn my lights on manually my 2003 mc ss said service car soon. Tonight I lost interior instrument panel lights but after further observation, I noticed they were just really really dim. I checked the dimmer switch and it was turned up as far as it could go. My mechanic said it sounds like a bad dimmer switch. We checked all the fuses and they were fine along with the dimmer itself which was a small turn away from turning on the dome light. Just checking to see if this is plausible or not???
Cranks up but wont idle. If you hold gas down it will stay running but immediantly shuts off when you let off the gas. Can you help me? It is a throttle body engine.
if the code you are talking about is P0306 that says you have a misfire in cylinder #6, no I don't think that your fuel gauge sender will cause that code. I don't see how only one particular cylinder would misfire because you fuel sender is inaccurate. Now that being said, stranger things have happened. If the injector wiring and the fuel sender wiring were somehow shorted or rubbed through somewhere together it might be possible they both would act up at the same time...
depending on the scanner you are using, see if you have a misfire counter so you can actually look for the misfire. see when it is acting up. if your scanner has the misfire counter ability you should graph the misfires on all the cylinders while you sit at idle then go for a drive and see if you can see when and under what conditions you have a miss.
i am trying to remove the fuel filler door on my 2000 impala without destroying it any helpful hints i need to replace or repair the rust i figure it would be easier to repair on the bench thanks
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala Lt 3.5 L reading code P0010 shifts hard thru first an second gears have a check engine lite on I have changed the camshaft positioning sensor also the plug to that sensor I have also changed the camshaft magnet stop shifting hard for a very short period of time after I chanced that now the lite is back on and the hard shifting persist please help can not keep just spending money also can not afford to pay shop prices. Thanks for reading and any help you may have! Happy 4TH
What could cause a pulsating grinding/roaring noise from the rear end when traveling straight and intensified when turning right? When turning left the noise stops.
i have a 2003 malibu and it goes in rev but no forward gears what can it be pls help.was driving it and shut it off and got bk in it to go and wouldnt move!
I had brought a old Equinox car last year. Yesterday it shows a problem in battery because their head lights is not lighting. When I take my car at Tiremania Auto repair shop which is our local auto repair shop, their repairer says that the battery is completely damaged. So here it is better for me to replace a new one. So asked you that should I need change of my car battery?
sounds like you're on the right track on your diag. and yes, this can affect you shifting. When your check engine light comes on the computer will change how it reacts to your driving the vehicle. basically it goes into a default limp mode. It will substitute a value for the cam sensor since it can't depend on the readings it sees. Some cars shift different, some turn off the cruise, some cars will turn off the AC for codes that may affect power or temp.
make sure you have the right weight oil too
I have a 2004 chevy impala that the check engine light flashes above 30 mph, also chugging real bad at a idle. I have changed fuel cap, fuel filter,o2 senor, ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner also, I am at a loss please help?
Trying to figure out odd shifting on 2011 impala 3500 motor with automatic- all maintenance up to date except plan to change plugs and wires soon
changed transmission fluid filter etc at 50k and recently near 100k - change not flush - first one fine in winter months but after this one the car does not like shifting on a hill - it will shift ok through the lower gears but if you are pulling a steep hill the rpms will keep going up to 3500 or 4300 before it makes the final shift - if you let off of it and put it right back to it - seems to help it shift - wondering if this could be in the plugs and wires - my first thoughts were transmission - lock up solenoid - dirt in the valve body - torque convertor - no easy fixes that I see but I would appreciate an experts opinion of the most likely cause after a fluid change and suggestions for how to figure it out - my mechanic didn't even put it on the machine just drove it and told me a fluid change would do that? FYI - I also replaced the right front hub assembly due to excessive play in the wheel on the same day as the transmission fluid change. Help Please - my dad taught me to take care of my car and I hate to let things go that can be fixed before a major failure
thanks for your time
After driving for awhile, and stopped at a light, it still idled but wouldn't move and throttle didn't increase. Then Rpms jumped way up, dropped back down, and car moved a little bit. It stopped again, then went again. Pulled into parking lot and put in park. Tried revving gas and it sputtered like it wasn't get enough gas. Plenty of gas and new fuel filter.
when driving in overdrive and under a load (maintaining speed or accelerating up a hill) the car bogs down and runs extremely rough, most of the time i can pull it out of it by downshifting and getting rpm's back. the check eng light flashes for the duration of the poor running. codes thrown are for cyl 5 misfire, the downstream o2 sensor and evap failure. plugs and wires are new but havent changed the runability. i get no response by tapping the TPS (an easy check i read about). could it be a cracked intake? it has the 3800 series II i believe.
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. On the message screen it says service vehicle soon "security" but the car starts and runs fine never dies and never fails to start. It stays on when the car is running also. What does this security light mean? I have changed the ignition switch and key cylinder with no luck in solving the issue..Any ideas?
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala that the ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine lights stay on constantly. We have just replaced both front wheel bearings, (one of them twice), rotors, brakes and new tires all around. We have had a GM dealer look at it and they got the lights to go off, said it was a loose connection. But now their right back on. My husband is a machine mechanic and also does most or all of the work on our cars. He has a high end OBM code reader that also reads ABS. We are getting the codes B1221, B1226, B1232, B1233, and B1245. What could be causing these codes and could you tell me what we need to replace, to be able to clear them and not have them keep coming back on?
This is 2nd time this week my daughters 199 Chevy Malibu died while driving it. We changed the plugs n wires ( which were original from factory) after we found out the large FUSE to ignition was blown. But not now.. Is there something else that can b causing this dangerous problem?
Headlights come on when you start the car, but have no tail lights or brake lights. All fuses have been checked and multi-function switch replaced. It does need a new instrument cluster. Could that effect my tail lights and brake lights. Or is there another common problem with this model?
I have a 04 impala and most of the time when I hit the brakes in cold weather my blower motor stops blowing then when I let off the brake it comes back on .its really annoying it doesn't happen everytime but most of time.i don't know how it can be connected to the brake could it be a vacuum leak in brakes please help
Replaced timing chain and heads on 4cyl 2004 Chevy Malibu. Car was missing...compression was good in all cylinders. replaced coil. Ran good for a short time...then started missing again. Anyone have any ideas....
Trying to locate sensor 1 bank 1 O2 sensor on 3.8l impala. Have seen various diagrams, but not helping. I'm looking for a diagram or pic of exact location.
Thanks in advance.
Hi a few months ago I purchased a upper inlet coolant pipe for my 2000 Chevy Cavalier. When it arrived the o-ring was missing, so I called them and they said they did not have a replacement, so I was left guessing on the size. I have now developed a leak from the o-ring area, and cannot find what size the o-ring anywhere. I was hoping maybe someone reading this would know or have a guide to know. Thanks in advance.
Ive changed all the sensors. I'm stumped. It takes ten minutes or so to start again. Spark dies and injectors too. I also installed a new ECM.
A 1999 Chevy Cavalier with 228,000 miles how much longer will it last ? No noticeable wear and tear or mechanical issues.
Hi mScott, and I have a question about my 2000 Chevy Crapalier. Well I started hearing the dreaded water pump sounds, as well as seeing some antifreeze coming out the weep hole. I preceded to change it and everything went well until a few days later when I noticed the temp gauge starting to get higher and higher. I panicked got the car home in time opened the hood and noticed the coolant was still full, and everything was running smoothy. No loss of coolant, nothing coming out of the overflow, no funky smell, and the car was running great. So I talked my neighbors friend and he said to change the coolant temperature sensor. So I did, and noticed the same problem. Well after trying these things I decided maybe it needs a good cleaning and flushing. Right now I am running super cleaner through the system. I still noticed the problem after running the cleaner for like thirty minutes, so I wiggled the pigtail connector wires that went to the coolant temp sensor, and immediately seen the gauge start to drop. So I replaced the connector, and here is were the question comes in. After changing the connector I started the car, and waited for it get up to temp, and the fan turned on earlier than it usually does, and car temp guage is maintaing a temp cooler then I have ever seen, and the, fan will not shut off after it gets cool, it runs the whole time, until I shut the car off. After I shut the car down, I start it back up and the fan is not running and will not until it reaches temp again, and then cools the car down and simply stays on. Any ideas on what might be causing this. Thanks in advance
I'm looking for some answers and I hope someone can help me before I get totally ripped off being a woman taking a car to a random garage. No offense against men but it does happen often.
Any way, I have a 93 cavalier, 139 grand miles on it.. just recently it started overheating, can't find any leaks yet I am loosing fluid. I bought some kinda stuff u put in the radiator run the car for three days then flush, it had this clay like stuff in it all mushy looking. so I did that, drove it around then had it flushed till water was clear, two days later it started overheating again and fluid just disappearing?.
since yesterday I have had a hell of a time starting it. this am it started fine but I had to put fluid in it again kinda bubbled as I was putting it in and almost immediately I could see it heating up from steam coming out. I was running the car while filling this evening I went out to check it and of course hardly any fluid in it tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked and I could hear water bubbling around...maybe a air bubble from flushing? I had the heater core bypassed 3 years ago when I had a overheating problem . never bothered again till just recently. I live in florida so I really don't need heat in it. no white smoke coming out of back although the catalac converter sounds packed.. or I just need a whole new muffler system. not sure but I am thinking catalac converter is bad. any ideas? maybe new water pump? thermo stuck? it's a old car but it was running like a rocket ship, not a lot miles on it for a 93, I know nothing last forever but I really don't think it is the heads from all that I have read. I do smell gas from time to time idle isn't right , and of course smell exhaust because that system most definitely needs replacing, never had done. Just hate to take it to a garage and have someone rip me off tell me it is something major and it really isn't.... thank u...
Can someone tell me how to replace the actuator motor on the drivers side of my 01 chevy impala. Actuator iis under the dash at the very top- nno space to work and u have to stand I'm ur head. Has to be a better way.
hello my name is Denver i am at a loss....my wife's power steering hose was leaking so i took it off and replaced
it with a new one and now her power steering pump as far as i can tell seems to not be working...
and yes i did bleed it!! i just don't know what else could be going on...please any help i feel
so bad and like a jerk i broke my wife's car!!! car info...2001 Chevy cavalier 2.2L 5 speed
hi, I'm having a code show up that coolants below threshold temp on a chevy impala ss indy edition. 3.8 series 2 supercharged. Could it be because its cold outside(17 deg. F.) and the s.c. forcing the cold air thru motor? or the temp. sensor? please note that when I checked the graph on the code reader it was spiking and dropping radically. While the temp. gauge appears to remain steady. Blows hot heat but sometimes takes quite a while to warm to operating temperature. Could it be thermostat AND sensor. 125,000 miles never been changed.
I have a 2000 chevy tracker and just put a timing chain in it, this car has been sitting for over two years,, with the same gas in it,, it wont start easy and wont idle when it dose,, but runs pretty good at a faster rpm , whats wrong
so you check and there is no spark while cranking? Check you crank signal. Crank sensor, ignition module, ECM, and even fuel injectors can shut down an engine just like someone turned off the key while you're driving. Oh yeah, the ignition switch too. You have to check to see what you have and what you are missing when it cranks over and doesn't start again.
Here is one example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41SZexc_ ... Y0wF2o5WUw