I have a 2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. On the message screen it says service vehicle soon "security" but the car starts and runs fine never dies and never fails to start. It stays on when the car is running also. What does this security light mean? I have changed the ignition switch and key cylinder with no luck in solving the issue..Any ideas?
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala that the ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine lights stay on constantly. We have just replaced both front wheel bearings, (one of them twice), rotors, brakes and new tires all around. We have had a GM dealer look at it and they got the lights to go off, said it was a loose connection. But now their right back on. My husband is a machine mechanic and also does most or all of the work on our cars. He has a high end OBM code reader that also reads ABS. We are getting the codes B1221, B1226, B1232, B1233, and B1245. What could be causing these codes and could you tell me what we need to replace, to be able to clear them and not have them keep coming back on?
This is 2nd time this week my daughters 199 Chevy Malibu died while driving it. We changed the plugs n wires ( which were original from factory) after we found out the large FUSE to ignition was blown. But not now.. Is there something else that can b causing this dangerous problem?
Headlights come on when you start the car, but have no tail lights or brake lights. All fuses have been checked and multi-function switch replaced. It does need a new instrument cluster. Could that effect my tail lights and brake lights. Or is there another common problem with this model?
I have a 04 impala and most of the time when I hit the brakes in cold weather my blower motor stops blowing then when I let off the brake it comes back on .its really annoying it doesn't happen everytime but most of time.i don't know how it can be connected to the brake could it be a vacuum leak in brakes please help
Replaced timing chain and heads on 4cyl 2004 Chevy Malibu. Car was missing...compression was good in all cylinders. replaced coil. Ran good for a short time...then started missing again. Anyone have any ideas....
Trying to locate sensor 1 bank 1 O2 sensor on 3.8l impala. Have seen various diagrams, but not helping. I'm looking for a diagram or pic of exact location.
Thanks in advance.
Hi a few months ago I purchased a upper inlet coolant pipe for my 2000 Chevy Cavalier. When it arrived the o-ring was missing, so I called them and they said they did not have a replacement, so I was left guessing on the size. I have now developed a leak from the o-ring area, and cannot find what size the o-ring anywhere. I was hoping maybe someone reading this would know or have a guide to know. Thanks in advance.
Ive changed all the sensors. I'm stumped. It takes ten minutes or so to start again. Spark dies and injectors too. I also installed a new ECM.
A 1999 Chevy Cavalier with 228,000 miles how much longer will it last ? No noticeable wear and tear or mechanical issues.
Hi mScott, and I have a question about my 2000 Chevy Crapalier. Well I started hearing the dreaded water pump sounds, as well as seeing some antifreeze coming out the weep hole. I preceded to change it and everything went well until a few days later when I noticed the temp gauge starting to get higher and higher. I panicked got the car home in time opened the hood and noticed the coolant was still full, and everything was running smoothy. No loss of coolant, nothing coming out of the overflow, no funky smell, and the car was running great. So I talked my neighbors friend and he said to change the coolant temperature sensor. So I did, and noticed the same problem. Well after trying these things I decided maybe it needs a good cleaning and flushing. Right now I am running super cleaner through the system. I still noticed the problem after running the cleaner for like thirty minutes, so I wiggled the pigtail connector wires that went to the coolant temp sensor, and immediately seen the gauge start to drop. So I replaced the connector, and here is were the question comes in. After changing the connector I started the car, and waited for it get up to temp, and the fan turned on earlier than it usually does, and car temp guage is maintaing a temp cooler then I have ever seen, and the, fan will not shut off after it gets cool, it runs the whole time, until I shut the car off. After I shut the car down, I start it back up and the fan is not running and will not until it reaches temp again, and then cools the car down and simply stays on. Any ideas on what might be causing this. Thanks in advance
I'm looking for some answers and I hope someone can help me before I get totally ripped off being a woman taking a car to a random garage. No offense against men but it does happen often.
Any way, I have a 93 cavalier, 139 grand miles on it.. just recently it started overheating, can't find any leaks yet I am loosing fluid. I bought some kinda stuff u put in the radiator run the car for three days then flush, it had this clay like stuff in it all mushy looking. so I did that, drove it around then had it flushed till water was clear, two days later it started overheating again and fluid just disappearing?.
since yesterday I have had a hell of a time starting it. this am it started fine but I had to put fluid in it again kinda bubbled as I was putting it in and almost immediately I could see it heating up from steam coming out. I was running the car while filling this evening I went out to check it and of course hardly any fluid in it tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked and I could hear water bubbling around...maybe a air bubble from flushing? I had the heater core bypassed 3 years ago when I had a overheating problem . never bothered again till just recently. I live in florida so I really don't need heat in it. no white smoke coming out of back although the catalac converter sounds packed.. or I just need a whole new muffler system. not sure but I am thinking catalac converter is bad. any ideas? maybe new water pump? thermo stuck? it's a old car but it was running like a rocket ship, not a lot miles on it for a 93, I know nothing last forever but I really don't think it is the heads from all that I have read. I do smell gas from time to time idle isn't right , and of course smell exhaust because that system most definitely needs replacing, never had done. Just hate to take it to a garage and have someone rip me off tell me it is something major and it really isn't.... thank u...
Can someone tell me how to replace the actuator motor on the drivers side of my 01 chevy impala. Actuator iis under the dash at the very top- nno space to work and u have to stand I'm ur head. Has to be a better way.
hello my name is Denver i am at a loss....my wife's power steering hose was leaking so i took it off and replaced
it with a new one and now her power steering pump as far as i can tell seems to not be working...
and yes i did bleed it!! i just don't know what else could be going on...please any help i feel
so bad and like a jerk i broke my wife's car!!! car info...2001 Chevy cavalier 2.2L 5 speed
hi, I'm having a code show up that coolants below threshold temp on a chevy impala ss indy edition. 3.8 series 2 supercharged. Could it be because its cold outside(17 deg. F.) and the s.c. forcing the cold air thru motor? or the temp. sensor? please note that when I checked the graph on the code reader it was spiking and dropping radically. While the temp. gauge appears to remain steady. Blows hot heat but sometimes takes quite a while to warm to operating temperature. Could it be thermostat AND sensor. 125,000 miles never been changed.
I have a 2000 chevy tracker and just put a timing chain in it, this car has been sitting for over two years,, with the same gas in it,, it wont start easy and wont idle when it dose,, but runs pretty good at a faster rpm , whats wrong
so you check and there is no spark while cranking? Check you crank signal. Crank sensor, ignition module, ECM, and even fuel injectors can shut down an engine just like someone turned off the key while you're driving. Oh yeah, the ignition switch too. You have to check to see what you have and what you are missing when it cranks over and doesn't start again.
Here is one example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41SZexc_ ... Y0wF2o5WUw
There is no power to the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. Relay clicks but no fuel pressure. The fuel pump was recently replaced and the car was working OK
Im wondering if you can answer these questions. It's my first time here so I will try and include detailed stuff abiut my Truck.
IAC (Idle Air Control)
After taken the IAC Valve out and cleaning the black residue at the end, I'm wondering how far the end of it should be going in/out? I tried turning the car over with that valve out, and all that happens is a small movement- Is that normal?
Also I see some really small holes at the end of the Pintle, Should those be really clean?
How would I test the IAC Valve? I do not have the money to take it to the dealer at the moment, Just had a new baby!
Is there some easy way to check it?
One thing I did do is to test the resistance of the valve and things checked out ok.
Should I replace the small "O" ring? Is so where would I get it at? I checked online with no luck.
EGR VALVE QUESTION:
*How would I test this with the valve attached to the engine? A mechanic a while back cleaned it, but once done he did NOT use a new gasket, he resused the one it had on it. Is that very important to get a new gasket?
My mechanic when recently replacing the fuel pump, did not put a new rubber gasket when attaching the assembly back on, he just reused the old one.
Should I get a new gasket an dhave it put on? Is it very important or critical?
I have a 2001 Chevy Impala with the 3.4 liter engine. The person that I got it from hooked up the battery backwards. Nothing has worked since then. When you turn on the key or crank it the check engine light comes on but no lights, horn, buzzer, nothing else does anything. I have checked the fuses but they all appear to be ok. Please help me with this. Thank you very much.
you had it scanned and showed no codes, did you drive it and watch the data stream? did you use a tech2? The master cylinder is full but did it go low and someone filled it back up? Is the float stuck? (check the pink and black wire going to the master fluid level switch) did you check all your fuses? the ABS 40amp and the ABS 30amp fuse out in the underhood fuse box? or the ERLS fuse in the fuse panel?
I let my car sit and warm up every morning before I pull off but sometimes it acts like it wants to cut off while im pressing the gas...One day I was driving down highway and the car just cut off..it started back up and has only done it once again but this time I had to mash on the gas while starting it....any suggestions on what maybe wrong?
I would look at you secondary ignition components. Spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, ignition module. you should see if you have codes for misfire. if not drive with a scanner on and watch the misfire counter.
spark will always look for the easiest way back to ground. under a load it may be easier to jump outside the system instead of jumping across the spark plug gap.
first make sure you got the O-rings out of the fuel rail and the intake ports. Make sure the injectors you're putting back in, the old ones or the replacement ones, have O-rings on the top and bottom. Lube the O-rings on the injectors before you put them back in. Use brake assembly fluid, dielectric grease, silicone grease... Install them into the rail first. then line them all up with their ports and push them onto the intake.
how far did you take things apart when you removed the injectors?
First, I hope everyone that drives a GM, your cars run like they just left the assembly line. Mine is in a comma. It all started with code p0016, a loud (tick-tick-tick or clunk-clunk-clunk noise) and now it stalled on me. It is a 3.5L, K, flex fuel, v6, with 138,000 miles. 2 years ago when the car had 102,000 it threw code p0011 and one mechanic replaced the camshaft position sensor, camshaft actuator, and camshaft actuator magnet (the round piece of plastic with three screws and a connector). Replaced also the timing chain tensioner, but he kept the timing chain and crank sprocket. Is the new problem related to the old problem? Do I need a new camshaft or crankshaft? Or do I need a new timing set (camshaft actuator, camshaft actuator magnet, chain, sprocket, tensioner) and I am good? Please be as detailed as possible?
Help,,i have a 2004 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 litre K motor(non supercharged) .I have been having a problem with a chugging on start up for a few months now. It usually happens after I've been out in the car ,not on a cold start. It shakes the whole car, and it can happen every time I restart when on errands. It goes away as soon as I accelerate. My partner is a mechanic. He says its not the catalytic converter because of no rotten egg smell. He has tried....new spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced twice the IAC valve, replaced the upper intake (which WAS leaking coolant), replaced oxygen sensor, and I filled car with the highest grade gas on a 5 hour trip to try and burn off carbon. Need to figure this out before the cold weather comes, as it will probably make things even worse. He has hooked it up to a computer, it reads misfire. Any ideas would be extremely appreciated !! Thank You ..
hi i have a 1984 Chevrolet Cavalier Base L4 - 2.0L vin P 122ci - TBI GAS OHV that had a bad oil leak only when the car is on. what causes this to happen? and how do i fix it?
I have a 1982 El Camino 3.8 v6 and it all of a sudden started losing power when take off. We did put in a new fuel filter. What could be the problem?
My '05 Chevrolet cobalt 4 cylnd. Has been puttering badly, acts like it wants to cut off, sometimes it does at a stop. Had engine replaced with '06 engine roundabout a year or so ago. thought maybe bad gas. Put sea foam in it same results. Had test done read code: P0300..misfiring. replaced knock sensor and spark plugs. Same results. Any ideas?