I changed the fuelpump and it started, but when i replaced the tank into the car it wouldn't start, only cranks... fuelpump is coming on and is reading 47psi as specified at autozone... but will not start. Theft system light is NOT flashing no check engine light... no kinked fuel lines and all good electrical connections. what is my problem?
Driving down the Highway I had a belt failure with the belt wrapping itself around behind the crank pulley ( where the crank sensor is located) bummer. I replaced the belt from my emergency kit in the trunk but vehicle started then died. I had no fuel pressure at the shrader valve and the pump would not turn on when ignition on ( listened carefully). Had vehicle towed to home. I replaced the fuel pump and it energises properly when the ignition is turned on. By the way I replaced the fuses and relays even though they checked out because I wanted to be sure before I towed the vehicle. I replaced the oil pressure switch because I noticed that it would have been near the flailing belt. I also had unplugged the crank sensor and repaired the scrufffed wireing and then reconnected the harness to the crank sensor. This is acting like my old ford Taurus did when I had a fender bender but my Camaro does not have a fuel shutoff switch nor has one been installed aftermarket which I checked because I know they can be installed. Please don't tell me I have a bad crank sensor sice I replaced that when I overhauled the motor 6 months ago. please give me a simple fix because the engine does start when I spray some starting fluid in it.
I have had 2 ERG valve replace, map sensor, EVAP hose and P0401 keeps coming on. They have smoked it 3 times. Please can you advise what else they can check for?
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu. The gas gage and the temp gage both on the dash are not working. I also have the check engine light on. Got the code p0446. Not sure if all three are connected or not. Not sure what would cause the gas gsge not to work. That is the one thing I need to get fixed. Can someone please help with some information?
low flow does not mean the egr valve isn't working. It means the MAP sensor did not read the intake vacuum change it was looking for when the egr was commanded on. Here's on reason that may cause this problem. The PCV system will allow oil to be drawn up into the intake very close to the egr port in the intake. That oil, over time, will mix with exhaust soot and plug up the egr passages.
(example: removing throttle body and EGR valve will provide access to both ends of passageway. Removing vacuum tee at the top of intake will allow a straight line of access for cleaning with a long screwdriver etc. The crooked passage over to EGR was cleaned with a piece of speedometer cable or something flexible.)
My 2003 chevy impala has l coolent leak near the fan belt. I can see a little hoes where it is leaking from. Can you give me any help as to what this is and how to make sure this is where its leaking from. Also if i can fix this myself or do i need to take it to someone.
2003 chevy cavalier starts and stops in one or two sec. also instrument cluster not working.
I have a 2005 chevy malibu classic 2.2 eogotec 53,000 miles just started tapping check with GM Mecanic and was told most likely stuck lifter as it was back by power stering pump. Just shut off. wont restart. any help please.
I need parts for 1998 olds intrigue V6 that are no longer available so I need to know which Chevy would be approx., the same? thanks!
How do I check to make sure the engine hasn't jumped time?
I have the 3 digits pushing 2&3 - 222
And 3 digits pushing am/fm - 226
I just don't know what to do next to unlock my radio.
I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek that shifts hard thru the gears It only does it if I stay sitting in one spot with the motor running for more then 3 or 4 min then when I take off it starts to shift hard it will stop once I turn the car off for a min or two then will drive fine until I stay sitting and running again then it's starts again any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
About a month ago, when trying to turn my lights on manually my 2003 mc ss said service car soon. Tonight I lost interior instrument panel lights but after further observation, I noticed they were just really really dim. I checked the dimmer switch and it was turned up as far as it could go. My mechanic said it sounds like a bad dimmer switch. We checked all the fuses and they were fine along with the dimmer itself which was a small turn away from turning on the dome light. Just checking to see if this is plausible or not???
Cranks up but wont idle. If you hold gas down it will stay running but immediantly shuts off when you let off the gas. Can you help me? It is a throttle body engine.
if the code you are talking about is P0306 that says you have a misfire in cylinder #6, no I don't think that your fuel gauge sender will cause that code. I don't see how only one particular cylinder would misfire because you fuel sender is inaccurate. Now that being said, stranger things have happened. If the injector wiring and the fuel sender wiring were somehow shorted or rubbed through somewhere together it might be possible they both would act up at the same time...
depending on the scanner you are using, see if you have a misfire counter so you can actually look for the misfire. see when it is acting up. if your scanner has the misfire counter ability you should graph the misfires on all the cylinders while you sit at idle then go for a drive and see if you can see when and under what conditions you have a miss.
i am trying to remove the fuel filler door on my 2000 impala without destroying it any helpful hints i need to replace or repair the rust i figure it would be easier to repair on the bench thanks
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala Lt 3.5 L reading code P0010 shifts hard thru first an second gears have a check engine lite on I have changed the camshaft positioning sensor also the plug to that sensor I have also changed the camshaft magnet stop shifting hard for a very short period of time after I chanced that now the lite is back on and the hard shifting persist please help can not keep just spending money also can not afford to pay shop prices. Thanks for reading and any help you may have! Happy 4TH
What could cause a pulsating grinding/roaring noise from the rear end when traveling straight and intensified when turning right? When turning left the noise stops.
i have a 2003 malibu and it goes in rev but no forward gears what can it be pls help.was driving it and shut it off and got bk in it to go and wouldnt move!
I had brought a old Equinox car last year. Yesterday it shows a problem in battery because their head lights is not lighting. When I take my car at Tiremania Auto repair shop which is our local auto repair shop, their repairer says that the battery is completely damaged. So here it is better for me to replace a new one. So asked you that should I need change of my car battery?
sounds like you're on the right track on your diag. and yes, this can affect you shifting. When your check engine light comes on the computer will change how it reacts to your driving the vehicle. basically it goes into a default limp mode. It will substitute a value for the cam sensor since it can't depend on the readings it sees. Some cars shift different, some turn off the cruise, some cars will turn off the AC for codes that may affect power or temp.
make sure you have the right weight oil too
I have a 2004 chevy impala that the check engine light flashes above 30 mph, also chugging real bad at a idle. I have changed fuel cap, fuel filter,o2 senor, ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner also, I am at a loss please help? :cry:
Trying to figure out odd shifting on 2011 impala 3500 motor with automatic- all maintenance up to date except plan to change plugs and wires soon
changed transmission fluid filter etc at 50k and recently near 100k - change not flush - first one fine in winter months but after this one the car does not like shifting on a hill - it will shift ok through the lower gears but if you are pulling a steep hill the rpms will keep going up to 3500 or 4300 before it makes the final shift - if you let off of it and put it right back to it - seems to help it shift - wondering if this could be in the plugs and wires - my first thoughts were transmission - lock up solenoid - dirt in the valve body - torque convertor - no easy fixes that I see but I would appreciate an experts opinion of the most likely cause after a fluid change and suggestions for how to figure it out - my mechanic didn't even put it on the machine just drove it and told me a fluid change would do that? FYI - I also replaced the right front hub assembly due to excessive play in the wheel on the same day as the transmission fluid change. Help Please - my dad taught me to take care of my car and I hate to let things go that can be fixed before a major failure
thanks for your time
After driving for awhile, and stopped at a light, it still idled but wouldn't move and throttle didn't increase. Then Rpms jumped way up, dropped back down, and car moved a little bit. It stopped again, then went again. Pulled into parking lot and put in park. Tried revving gas and it sputtered like it wasn't get enough gas. Plenty of gas and new fuel filter.
when driving in overdrive and under a load (maintaining speed or accelerating up a hill) the car bogs down and runs extremely rough, most of the time i can pull it out of it by downshifting and getting rpm's back. the check eng light flashes for the duration of the poor running. codes thrown are for cyl 5 misfire, the downstream o2 sensor and evap failure. plugs and wires are new but havent changed the runability. i get no response by tapping the TPS (an easy check i read about). could it be a cracked intake? it has the 3800 series II i believe.
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. On the message screen it says service vehicle soon "security" but the car starts and runs fine never dies and never fails to start. It stays on when the car is running also. What does this security light mean? I have changed the ignition switch and key cylinder with no luck in solving the issue..Any ideas?
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala that the ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine lights stay on constantly. We have just replaced both front wheel bearings, (one of them twice), rotors, brakes and new tires all around. We have had a GM dealer look at it and they got the lights to go off, said it was a loose connection. But now their right back on. My husband is a machine mechanic and also does most or all of the work on our cars. He has a high end OBM code reader that also reads ABS. We are getting the codes B1221, B1226, B1232, B1233, and B1245. What could be causing these codes and could you tell me what we need to replace, to be able to clear them and not have them keep coming back on?
This is 2nd time this week my daughters 199 Chevy Malibu died while driving it. We changed the plugs n wires ( which were original from factory) after we found out the large FUSE to ignition was blown. But not now.. Is there something else that can b causing this dangerous problem?
Headlights come on when you start the car, but have no tail lights or brake lights. All fuses have been checked and multi-function switch replaced. It does need a new instrument cluster. Could that effect my tail lights and brake lights. Or is there another common problem with this model?
I have a 04 impala and most of the time when I hit the brakes in cold weather my blower motor stops blowing then when I let off the brake it comes back on .its really annoying it doesn't happen everytime but most of time.i don't know how it can be connected to the brake could it be a vacuum leak in brakes please help