hi, I'm having a code show up that coolants below threshold temp on a chevy impala ss indy edition. 3.8 series 2 supercharged. Could it be because its cold outside(17 deg. F.) and the s.c. forcing the cold air thru motor? or the temp. sensor? please note that when I checked the graph on the code reader it was spiking and dropping radically. While the temp. gauge appears to remain steady. Blows hot heat but sometimes takes quite a while to warm to operating temperature. Could it be thermostat AND sensor. 125,000 miles never been changed.
I have a 2000 chevy tracker and just put a timing chain in it, this car has been sitting for over two years,, with the same gas in it,, it wont start easy and wont idle when it dose,, but runs pretty good at a faster rpm , whats wrong
so you check and there is no spark while cranking? Check you crank signal. Crank sensor, ignition module, ECM, and even fuel injectors can shut down an engine just like someone turned off the key while you're driving. Oh yeah, the ignition switch too. You have to check to see what you have and what you are missing when it cranks over and doesn't start again.
Here is one example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41SZexc_ ... Y0wF2o5WUw
There is no power to the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. Relay clicks but no fuel pressure. The fuel pump was recently replaced and the car was working OK
Im wondering if you can answer these questions. It's my first time here so I will try and include detailed stuff abiut my Truck.
IAC (Idle Air Control)
After taken the IAC Valve out and cleaning the black residue at the end, I'm wondering how far the end of it should be going in/out? I tried turning the car over with that valve out, and all that happens is a small movement- Is that normal?
Also I see some really small holes at the end of the Pintle, Should those be really clean?
How would I test the IAC Valve? I do not have the money to take it to the dealer at the moment, Just had a new baby!
Is there some easy way to check it?
One thing I did do is to test the resistance of the valve and things checked out ok.
Should I replace the small "O" ring? Is so where would I get it at? I checked online with no luck.
EGR VALVE QUESTION:
*How would I test this with the valve attached to the engine? A mechanic a while back cleaned it, but once done he did NOT use a new gasket, he resused the one it had on it. Is that very important to get a new gasket?
My mechanic when recently replacing the fuel pump, did not put a new rubber gasket when attaching the assembly back on, he just reused the old one.
Should I get a new gasket an dhave it put on? Is it very important or critical?
I have a 2001 Chevy Impala with the 3.4 liter engine. The person that I got it from hooked up the battery backwards. Nothing has worked since then. When you turn on the key or crank it the check engine light comes on but no lights, horn, buzzer, nothing else does anything. I have checked the fuses but they all appear to be ok. Please help me with this. Thank you very much.
you had it scanned and showed no codes, did you drive it and watch the data stream? did you use a tech2? The master cylinder is full but did it go low and someone filled it back up? Is the float stuck? (check the pink and black wire going to the master fluid level switch) did you check all your fuses? the ABS 40amp and the ABS 30amp fuse out in the underhood fuse box? or the ERLS fuse in the fuse panel?
I let my car sit and warm up every morning before I pull off but sometimes it acts like it wants to cut off while im pressing the gas...One day I was driving down highway and the car just cut off..it started back up and has only done it once again but this time I had to mash on the gas while starting it....any suggestions on what maybe wrong?
I would look at you secondary ignition components. Spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, ignition module. you should see if you have codes for misfire. if not drive with a scanner on and watch the misfire counter.
spark will always look for the easiest way back to ground. under a load it may be easier to jump outside the system instead of jumping across the spark plug gap.
first make sure you got the O-rings out of the fuel rail and the intake ports. Make sure the injectors you're putting back in, the old ones or the replacement ones, have O-rings on the top and bottom. Lube the O-rings on the injectors before you put them back in. Use brake assembly fluid, dielectric grease, silicone grease... Install them into the rail first. then line them all up with their ports and push them onto the intake.
how far did you take things apart when you removed the injectors?
First, I hope everyone that drives a GM, your cars run like they just left the assembly line. Mine is in a comma. It all started with code p0016, a loud (tick-tick-tick or clunk-clunk-clunk noise) and now it stalled on me. It is a 3.5L, K, flex fuel, v6, with 138,000 miles. 2 years ago when the car had 102,000 it threw code p0011 and one mechanic replaced the camshaft position sensor, camshaft actuator, and camshaft actuator magnet (the round piece of plastic with three screws and a connector). Replaced also the timing chain tensioner, but he kept the timing chain and crank sprocket. Is the new problem related to the old problem? Do I need a new camshaft or crankshaft? Or do I need a new timing set (camshaft actuator, camshaft actuator magnet, chain, sprocket, tensioner) and I am good? Please be as detailed as possible?
Help,,i have a 2004 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 litre K motor(non supercharged) .I have been having a problem with a chugging on start up for a few months now. It usually happens after I've been out in the car ,not on a cold start. It shakes the whole car, and it can happen every time I restart when on errands. It goes away as soon as I accelerate. My partner is a mechanic. He says its not the catalytic converter because of no rotten egg smell. He has tried....new spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced twice the IAC valve, replaced the upper intake (which WAS leaking coolant), replaced oxygen sensor, and I filled car with the highest grade gas on a 5 hour trip to try and burn off carbon. Need to figure this out before the cold weather comes, as it will probably make things even worse. He has hooked it up to a computer, it reads misfire. Any ideas would be extremely appreciated !! Thank You ..
hi i have a 1984 Chevrolet Cavalier Base L4 - 2.0L vin P 122ci - TBI GAS OHV that had a bad oil leak only when the car is on. what causes this to happen? and how do i fix it?
I have a 1982 El Camino 3.8 v6 and it all of a sudden started losing power when take off. We did put in a new fuel filter. What could be the problem?
My '05 Chevrolet cobalt 4 cylnd. Has been puttering badly, acts like it wants to cut off, sometimes it does at a stop. Had engine replaced with '06 engine roundabout a year or so ago. thought maybe bad gas. Put sea foam in it same results. Had test done read code: P0300..misfiring. replaced knock sensor and spark plugs. Same results. Any ideas?
I recently purchased a 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4L base with 68k miles on it and I am having a problem with the acceleration and coolant level.
About every other time I start the vehicle, the car accelerates on its own, to the point where I am riding the brake when driving on a level road. When the car is engaged in park, it seems to be idling high. Also, when the car does accelerate on its own, I can hear a high-pitched whistling coming from the engine.
The coolant level has been under the cold mark for the last few days. I have added approx. 1.5-2 quarts of Dex-cool. Today it stayed at the cold line and did not require more fluid. I was alerted to the problem because I could hear liquid flowing sounds coming from the dash.
Any advice on what I should do? I have brought it back to the dealer and he has been willing to work with me, but he was not able to replicate the acceleration problem.
The dealer did tell me that the lower intake gasket had been replaced recently. I took apart the air intake and cleaned the throttle body and the IAC, but it hasn't helped.
Thanks for any advice.
check your fuel pressure would be one of the first things to check
I've had overheating problems for a while now and I've done almost everything I can think of from changing the water pump, flushing the radiator, changing the thermostat (twice) and changing the cooling temperature sensor (twice). About a month or so ago my mechanic told me he changed some wiring to do with the heat temp sensor, he said it was only sending the fans power on and off. After he did that I changed the cooling temp. sensor again (this being the second time). The first time was a cheaper one and after the fans stopped turning on I bought a more expensive one and put that on after he did the wire work. A week after that the fans stopped turning on again. Even with the fans not running I was okay so long as I was traveling on open highway with higher speeds but last week we went to the drive in and as we were pulling up on the small hill to a straight position from the screen the car started to get hot very fast, mind you we moved the car about three or four times because my b/f can't park a car straight on a hill for w/e reason. When the movies finished and we were leaving to go home the car temp gauge was right at half. I found this very odd to see for a car that had been sitting 2 1/2 + hours but we left and about two miles down the road I had to pull over because the car was getting hot. I could hear a thumping kind of noise from the front bottom of the car. I had to let the car sit for a while and add water to make it home. Ever sense then I can't drive four miles without the car starting to get hot (two lines over half is enough for me to turn the car off considering that is where the last engine temp got before the head gasket blew. I can provide more info about that if needed) whereas before last week I could at least make it around 40 miles before I seen the temp go two lines over half. I have tested the radiator fan by connecting it to the battery and it does turn on but I couldn't get it to run by cross connecting the coolant sensor- to the fan- to the battery but maybe I was doing it wrong since I know little to nothing about vehicles. Is there anything that could be frying the coolant fan sensors I replace? I'm just assuming this one is bad since the fans stopped turning on last week but a week prior when I changed the sensor they were working again albeit short lived. If anyone could tell me how I can fix this problem I would be very grateful!
low coolant light is turned on by a sender usually in the recovery tank. sometimes they get stuck or sink. if coolant is not low replace sensor (sometimes made into the tank)
the clutch may no longer be a clutch problem. Jumping out of gear sounds more like a trans problem. All your clutch does is engage and release the input shaft. If your clutch is worn it may slip. If your clutch is stuck you can't shift (under normal circumstances) because the input speed of the shaft won't let you align the shift collar to get out of gear and into the next gear. Jumping out of gear is a sign of transmission gear problem.
Test drove the car this morning . Mileage was at 14488. Drove for about 4 miles, all runs well mileage did go up to 14492. So the odometer is working it has just changed the actual mileage. I did check the chassis ground at the battery holder and it appears in good shape, not rusted or broke off. Is there some sort of mileage sensor that could have gone bad?
where does the smell come from? the hood area? A gasoline smell on your first start up may be a fuel leak. Check for a leak by cycling the key a few times but not starting up the engine. (turn the key until the warning lights come on in the dash but don't go to "start") that will build up fuel pressure in the lines and injectors. see if you can see or smell gas then.
evap hose leak, fuel tank leak... you need to test when the car has sat overnight while every thing is cold since that is when it happens. A smoke machine would be great to look for vent and hose leaks.
with the transmission in park, turn the ignition switch to start. If the vehicle starts and then dies, leave the ignition in the run position with the engine off until the security light turns off (usually about 10 minutes) Turn the ignition to off for 10 seconds. turn the ignition switch to run. On the next attempt to start the BCM will learn new key code.
I would next pull a spark plug after attempting to crank to see if it's dry, meaning no fuel. I'd also look for major vacuum leaks. I'd also do a Google search on your subject for this post. Sometimes I get a direct hit on my problem when I do this.
1999 Monte Carlo 3.1--hesitation between key turn and starter ignition--sometimes takes several key trys for connection with starter--starts and runs fine after starting. Auto parts store says alternator and battery check okay. What could be going out?
Not the blower motor control unit, replace the whole A/C heater control unit in the dash. The blower resistor is only used to control the blower speeds.
06 impala 3.9 a/c condenser leaking, is it difficult to replace ?
This problem all started a week ago when my girlfriend was driving it home from work and it started running rich to the point where it would stall out. I towed it home and replaced the coolant temp sensor, and it rand better but it would surge at idle. I found out the EGR valve was sticking so i took it apart and cleaned. That didn't fix the condition so i brought it to a shop and they said my lower intake manifold gasket was leaking or i had bad o-rings on the injectors. So i canged the intake manifold gasket and all the injector o-rings. That seemed to fix the issue for a while until my girlfriend took it about 2 miles from home and when she started it to leave it wouldn't rev above 2,000 rpms so she couldn't drive faster than 10 mph. I tested the fuel pressure regulator and changed the fuel filter and the oxygen sensor I cut out the catalytic converter because it sounded plugged up, that didn't fix anything. I've also tested the throttle position sensor, tested the MAP sensor, changed out the oxygen sensor, and the computer will not trip a code. Now I am at a loss, I've been told it could be a bad ECU but I don't wanna sink 100 dollars in the car on a hunch. Does anyone out there have any useful insight?
P.S. I know it sounds like mass air flow sensor but this vehicle is not equipped with one.
No pics needed, like I mentioned before it's the big black triangle on the front of the engine. You can't miss it!
Just so we're clear...the 'front' of the engine is where the belt is and all the pulleys. The 'front' is NOT as you stand looking from the front of the car.
Grab a flashlight and peek down right below the idler pulley area. You'll see it easily. I don't think I could have made it more clear.
The blower resistor has no common thread between what mode is chosen on the control head. Whether you have it on A/C, defrost, or what ever...the only signal it receives is from the fan switch. Are you using GM parts? If you're installing a cheap aftermarket part, that's why you keep replacing it.
This is fairly common and luckily a pretty easy fix. What you need to do is change the cam position actuator magnet that is located on the front of the engine. It looks like a large black triangle with a connector coming out the side of it. There are three torx screws that hold it on. Easy to replace....but...you need to check the following. There is a small 'button' that rides between the camshaft and the magnet. Once the magnet is removed, you should be able to push the button in on the timing gear and have it pop back out. If it does not, then you're looking at having to replace the camshaft and the timing gear set. This is very rare, so you'll most likely be good with just replacing the magnet, but just wanted you to know the details of everything involved.
Hello all, hoping for some help. Fairly limited knowledge here. I have a sbc engine with starter problem. The car can sometimes start once and run fine, but then when attempt to start second time starter gear gets stuck in flexplate. I crawl under and push starter gear back to place. Bought a new starter - it jammed. Tried shimming - no luck. Had original starter rebuilt since I knew it lined up perfectly and had worked many times before recent problem. Bench test is fine... but on the car same problem. Started once, then jammed. A friend suggests it is electrical but I am confused. I thought it would be a mechanical issue since it is a spring that disengages/returns the starter drive gear? I don't think flexplate is bent or damaged. Any suggestions? Thank you very much.
This happens a lot and is an easy fix. If you take a closer look at the pads, there are two with larger tabs and two with smaller tabs. You've probably get them mixed up, or have two of the same with the large tabs going on one rotor. You need to have one small tab brake pad and one large tab brake pad on each side. Take a look at the caliper and you'll see a groove in the metal retainer that is meant for the larger tab. This will mean the pad with the larger tab goes on the inboard side of the rotor.
Put them in the right place and the caliper will sit down nicely on the mounting bracket. If they are installed wrong, you'll feel the caliper pushing back up at you as you try to install it.
every time I back up I hear a clicking noise. It stops when I move forward. Also the check engine light comes on for about a week the goes back off. Got a diagnosis it said something about a faulty wiring.
I have a 1996 Chevy Corsica and i dnt know what is causing my car to keep draining my battery. i have changed the alternator 3 times and replaced the negative cable. What other options could be causing my battery to drain? PLZ help.
So, obviously not an ignition problem. Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump could be failing, or possibly the fuel filter is extremely clogged and restricting flow. Check the fuel pressure regulator for a ruptured diaphragm as well, it could be dumping fuel straight into the intake.
In your video it seems like it wanted to start a couple times, but couldn't quite get going. You're either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much fuel.
I have a 99 Chevy Malibu that the gauge says it is over heating. The cylinder head gaskets were replaced a little over a year ago at my dealer. I have replaced the thermostat and the water pump but it still over heats. When the car is hot the radiator is still cool and even the engine isn't hot to the touch. No heat from the vents either. My fans ARE working so what could it be?
Why does my new 2013 impala vibrate. It had 29 miles on it when purchased,1,300 now and has had three balancing and rotation done by dealer. No change. Vibration gets faster as car goes faster. Never an accident or ever hit a pothole.
My car is having trouble with jerking movements when i shift and the abs and trac off light intermittenly come on and off and at times when i try to brake the brakes become hard immovable and all of a sudden they give in and i slide into an intersection. then at times when i drive and stop and try to press the gas to start again it takes a second and whines and then the car starts to move and a slight shaking happens. also the lights and systems are starting to flicker on and off and thats if they work at all. ive changed fuses and flushed my transmission. please help cant afford to put on machine at chevy....anyone know of any codes or anything that could be wrong ?
Sounds like you've got a bad ignition switch, and it's not getting power to all the right places. This is pretty common, actually, and not a hard part to replace. You can remove it and do some wire testing and volt measurements. As for the theft light, even though the car starts, you are probably at the beginning phase of losing the theft signal as well, which would be a faulty ignition cylinder. The cylinder comes with the Passlock sensor which is used for the theft deterrent and needs a simple re-learn to function properly. If you have it apart, you may want to consider replacing the ignition switch and ignition cylinder all in one fell swoop.
One other possibility is a Body Control Module that is crapping out, but that is not quite as common as the first things I mentioned. If you can get the car scanned to see if there are any codes in the theft system that would be a plus.
trans lines from trans to radiator how do they disconnect? looks a push in plastic fitting but not sure
The ignition fuse on my 2004 chevy malibu blows everytime i turn key to start pos. I changed the faulty starter and did a visuale for a faulty wire. Whats the most probable cause and how do i check it?
I have a 2006 Chevy Impala that won't turn crank over. Nothing comes on when I open up any of the doors. Nothing works on the remote start or door lock buttons remote. When I put the key into the ignition and turn it, dash lights up but it just won't turn over. It happens about almost once a month.
The last time it happened a guy told me to tighten the gas cap because of a code for that. There are no codes in it now. But anywasy, I turned it about three turns and damn if it didn't start. I am sure just a coincedense.
This week I replaced the positive battery cable terminal and cleaned both posts. The battery is only a few months old. I had it tested anyway, and it shows fine. Any help would be great.
2004 chev trailblazer no, heat or air on the number 2 setting,nothing 1setting fine ,3,4,5,fine.please help.
i have a 1997 chevy venture van it starts to over heat the gauges go to red then the fans tunr on and gauges go back down . it has no leaks and the oil is fine.
When I put my Cavalier into drive gear, the dash indicator for my DRL flashes a few times then and then daytime running Lights go out. My service vehicle light is also on the dashboard. It is not the service engine light, the one with the wrench symbol on it. The low and high beams work fine when it turn them on manualy.
I have tried changing the bulbs with one from the dealer, but that is not the problem. Is there a wiring problem or relay or something that went bad. Thank you.
I replaced all the ignition I have been through the relearn process. The car is still having issues. Sometimes it will start fine but the security light will be on but it runs fine. Other time it drags real bad or just wont crank. I can keep trying and at some point it will start. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with this car. I used a scan tool the only code was a crank position sensor. Please note all the ignition parts came from a junk yard.
The only thing i did was change the fuel pump becacse. the tank wasdirt in it i put the old gas back in
What is the EPC solenoid on a 2003 Chevrolet impala 3.4L v6 engine and where is it located?