I asked the person that experienced the timing issue before. It started running a little rough. Wouldn't idle properly. Went and got an oil change and after that it wouldn't start and was throwing a timing code (don't know the exact code as he doesn't remember).
I've checked one of the spark plugs (it's good) though I suppose I could check the others. I don't know the exact fuel pressure though it's definitely enough to cause the fuel to shoot out at least 3-5 feet when the valve is depressed near the engine.
The engine hasn't run since changed the timing chain tensioner and realigned the chain itself. I don't have an oscilloscope or anything that I could use to graph signals or voltages in a time-dependent manner. However, it is no longer throwing the timing code that my coworker mentioned. Also, I don't know how to check cylinder pressure nor have I ever worked on a fuel injector, though I'm certain I could figure it out.
I guess the first thing I need to ask is: will the car still be able to start in most cases if the "computer" is detecting that there's something wrong with the TPS? If so, it's probably some other major issue within the engine itself, right? I mean, it does have about 220k miles on it.
my 1999 monte carlo engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off. replaced ignition switch. it still continues to run after turning off the key. what would cause this?
I have a 2006 Monte Carlo when I turn off the outside air or turn off the car there is a knocking in the dash on the passenger side.
My impala dont do anything .. wont start. No power on windos. No pwer on remot alarm.. no lights. Dashboard comes on but do nothing.. please help me
Smell gas especially in rear of car. Mechanic can't find problem. He has done smoke test.
ok, so it makes the noise when driving and turning...
A grinding noise when turning could be a bearing that has gotten so bad that the rotor doesn't stand up when turning. Could also be something with the brakes. Could be the wheel rubbing... you should jack up the wheel that makes the noise from under the control. See if there is any play in the wheel. top to bottom and side to side. Take the wheel off and see if you can find anything that shows signs of rubbing or grinding.
without hearing the noise myself it is difficult to say what it could be. Usually a wheel bearing will make a rumbling noise that follows the speed of the wheel rotation when they start to go bad. that noise gets louder as time goes on. Usually noticeable at speeds of 35 mph and higher until they get really bad and you can hear it all the time. Then the bearing gets so bad the the rotor will start to lean and might scrape on the caliper bracket. But. it's normally very loud by then...
I have a 1989 Chev. Celebrity 2.8L I changed the Idle Air Control Valve & Throttle Position Sensor. I cleaned and torked everything to specs. Now it won't start. It turns over very well but doesn't act like it wants to fire. Any suggestions?
I have gotten a oil change and all my fluid checked and filled, a tune up and a new battery. When I accelerate, it goes real slow then it speeds up a little and then it goes slow again. It is not my tranmission. I suspected it is my egr valve. Any ideas. Please help
'06 Impala. At freezing or below, windshield fogs so bad you can't see. No smell of antifreeze.
we have a 99 malibu, would start but stall after a few seconds, we replaced the ICM, coil pk, crank sensor, it then threw out a theft code, so we replaced the map sensor for the the computer kept resetting and went to loop, then replaced the fuel regulator.. still not staying started.. about broke and out of ideas.. any info. would be great
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala and are having trouble with the instrument panel lights. When you first turn the car on the Odometer light comes on for a few seconds like normal but none of the others come on at all. After a few seconds the odometer light goes real dim. Have checked all the fuses, none blown. Any suggestions as what to check next?
For some time now my '01 Impala (163k miles) has sometimes made a brief grinding noise at 3100 RPM before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear, and has recently started doing the same at 2100 RPM between 1st and 2nd gear. It doesn't make the noise every time but the problem doesn't occur when the engine is revved with the transmission in neutral, which leads me to believe it's a transmission issue that is starting to get worse. The car doesn't shudder or hesitate in its acceleration. Any advice?
My 98 cavalier manual trans. does not engage any gear
i have a 2005 monte carlo lt 3.8 v6. the other day i was driving it and it out of nowhere died. it wouldnt start back up after that. i got a friend to help me get it back to the house and left it for a day. came back to it and it will turn over but wont start. i checked the fuel rail and it had fuel in it. i wasnt getting spark when i tried to get an arch on the head. so i took the icm into auto shop to get it tested and it came back working. i dont know what to do now
The driver side door makes a loud, distinct popping noise when opening or closing. The door feels like it is ratcheting / jerking when it pops. The noise sounds like it is coming from the vicinity of the small "bar" that attaches to the door frame and then disappears into the door when operating. The door is fine when fully opened or closed.
Any suggestions of how to fix this?
06 Chevy Equinox LT
Sunny Virginia Beach, Va
TEMP GUAGE READS WAY PAST THE HOT MARK ON GUAGE BUT ENGINE IS BARELY HOT. cHECKED ALL FUSES AND RELAYS- GOOD.. ALSO CHECKED RADIATOR CAP AND HOSES - GOOD . HELP. DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT FIXING CARS LEARNING AND TEACHING MYSELF AS I GO. WHATS MY NEXT STEP(S) FOR FIXING GUAGES NEXT .
I HAVE A 2004 IMPALA 3.8L, 105K MI.COLD STARTS PERFECTLY NORMAL AFTER GETTING TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMP. ,AND CAR SHUT OFF FOR 30 MIN TO ABOUT 1 HR,CAR WILL START BUT STUMBLE AND SOMTIMES STALL BUT WILL ALWAYS RESTART, NO OTHER DRIVABILITY ISSUES CHANGED VERY DIRTY IAC.CLEANED MAF AND EGR OF COURSE NO CEL CHECKED FUEL PRESS,AND REGULATOR ALL NORMAL.LOCAL MECH SAYS POSSIBLE INTERMITTANT CRANK SENSOR BUT I'VE RED CAM SENSOR WILL CAUSE WARM START/STALL AND IS A LITTILE EASIER TO CHANGE ,IF CHANGED MUST A RELERN BE DONE AND HOW. THANKS FOR ALL HELP PETE
I have a 2010 Chevy Camaro RS... just turned over 20,000 miles. I brought the car in to have an oil change (not a Chevy dealer) and the mechanic said that the car brakes, front and back on the drivers side were at a 2 mm, almost nothing left, however the passenger side front and back were almost full. Two extreme differences. So I immediately called, the dealer only to learn that they could not schedule me for service for over a month, even knowing the condition of what I now call "Piece of crap / lemon car", with brakes that are clearly a danger on the road.
Several mechanics and people who drive Chevy's have said that my brake scenario is very unusual for any car make and is most likely a manufacturer defect, or when my car was smashed into by another driver, Chevy's body shop did the repair and possibly did not repair the frame properly, hence the brake situation.
Any insight / expertise would be appreciated.
it jumps out of gear no matter what speed your going and the od light flashes. I've purchased a new vss but can't find it on the vehicle
2000 chevy venture heating problem. I have a 2000 Chevy Venture not putting out heat. The coolant level is full in the radiator and the reservoir. Not losing coolant, so I'm not suspecting head gasket. there seems to be some sort of valve going to the heater core (a solenoid of some kind? ) on the upper right side of the motor near the coolant reservoir. One side seems to be hot, and the other side doesn't. It has 2 hoses attached to it. I bled the system by opening the bleeder going towards the thermostat, but haven't gotten any kind of respectable heat. The temp gauge will go up to and hang out about half and 3/4 and gunning the engine a few times drops it down. I don't know if the rear heat is attached and working, but also the indicators on the control panel on the dash when switching from face, face/foot heat to foot/defrost or any other variant goes from inside air to outside air light on the panel without changing it myself. when moving, temp gauge drops down to about 1/4 but that would be expected from airflow over the motor and cooling fins of the radiator
I have considered running a piece of pipe to the two sides of the solenoid/valve on top of the motor near the coolant reservoir and bypassing that valve to see if that works, but not sure if that would be the problem and if that needs to be replaced, but I don'e get a diagram showing that valve
I have replaced both thermostat and waterpump and flushed the system but car still runs hot and have no heat whyl
I have a p0402 code and my Emission 1 fuse keeps blowing
My 2001chevy impala shut off while driving on the highway the gas just got hard so did the break as i was tryna pull over the steeling wheel got hard i manage to get to the the side n pull over i had somebody look at the car and also hooked up to a machine nothing is coming up what can i do ?
So this past weekend I pulled the oil pan from my 2007 chevy impala and changed the gas get due to it leaking! What a job that was. Got everything back together an in place no more leak also change a motor mount on the bottom of the motor took the vibration I was having away. Started the car drove fine next day the engine lite comes on and stays on had it scanned and it's putting off 5 different codes my problem is I'm loss with these coded don't think I have 5 different problems I'm guessing there all being put off for the same reason but who knows the codes are P0030,P0036,P0053,P0054,P0443. Any ideas an thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I can not afford to take it to a shop at this time! Thanks for taking the time to read!
Trying to locate an oil leak. Coming from near the oil filter. Trying to locate the oil sending unit to see if that's the source. Can not find the oil sensor. Where is it located?
I have a 1998 monte carlo it runs good for days then fule pump stops working . I will let it sit for 2 or 3 hr and it will run agen. I have changed the relay and checked the fuses can it be the pump or some thing else.
Where are the freeze plugs located on my 2007 HHR? I want to install a freeze plug heater, and wanted to know what is involved in doing this?
I changed the fuelpump and it started, but when i replaced the tank into the car it wouldn't start, only cranks... fuelpump is coming on and is reading 47psi as specified at autozone... but will not start. Theft system light is NOT flashing no check engine light... no kinked fuel lines and all good electrical connections. what is my problem?
Driving down the Highway I had a belt failure with the belt wrapping itself around behind the crank pulley ( where the crank sensor is located) bummer. I replaced the belt from my emergency kit in the trunk but vehicle started then died. I had no fuel pressure at the shrader valve and the pump would not turn on when ignition on ( listened carefully). Had vehicle towed to home. I replaced the fuel pump and it energises properly when the ignition is turned on. By the way I replaced the fuses and relays even though they checked out because I wanted to be sure before I towed the vehicle. I replaced the oil pressure switch because I noticed that it would have been near the flailing belt. I also had unplugged the crank sensor and repaired the scrufffed wireing and then reconnected the harness to the crank sensor. This is acting like my old ford Taurus did when I had a fender bender but my Camaro does not have a fuel shutoff switch nor has one been installed aftermarket which I checked because I know they can be installed. Please don't tell me I have a bad crank sensor sice I replaced that when I overhauled the motor 6 months ago. please give me a simple fix because the engine does start when I spray some starting fluid in it.
I have had 2 ERG valve replace, map sensor, EVAP hose and P0401 keeps coming on. They have smoked it 3 times. Please can you advise what else they can check for?
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu. The gas gage and the temp gage both on the dash are not working. I also have the check engine light on. Got the code p0446. Not sure if all three are connected or not. Not sure what would cause the gas gsge not to work. That is the one thing I need to get fixed. Can someone please help with some information?
low flow does not mean the egr valve isn't working. It means the MAP sensor did not read the intake vacuum change it was looking for when the egr was commanded on. Here's on reason that may cause this problem. The PCV system will allow oil to be drawn up into the intake very close to the egr port in the intake. That oil, over time, will mix with exhaust soot and plug up the egr passages.
(example: removing throttle body and EGR valve will provide access to both ends of passageway. Removing vacuum tee at the top of intake will allow a straight line of access for cleaning with a long screwdriver etc. The crooked passage over to EGR was cleaned with a piece of speedometer cable or something flexible.)
My 2003 chevy impala has l coolent leak near the fan belt. I can see a little hoes where it is leaking from. Can you give me any help as to what this is and how to make sure this is where its leaking from. Also if i can fix this myself or do i need to take it to someone.
2003 chevy cavalier starts and stops in one or two sec. also instrument cluster not working.
I have a 2005 chevy malibu classic 2.2 eogotec 53,000 miles just started tapping check with GM Mecanic and was told most likely stuck lifter as it was back by power stering pump. Just shut off. wont restart. any help please.
I need parts for 1998 olds intrigue V6 that are no longer available so I need to know which Chevy would be approx., the same? thanks!
How do I check to make sure the engine hasn't jumped time?
I have the 3 digits pushing 2&3 - 222
And 3 digits pushing am/fm - 226
I just don't know what to do next to unlock my radio.
I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek that shifts hard thru the gears It only does it if I stay sitting in one spot with the motor running for more then 3 or 4 min then when I take off it starts to shift hard it will stop once I turn the car off for a min or two then will drive fine until I stay sitting and running again then it's starts again any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
About a month ago, when trying to turn my lights on manually my 2003 mc ss said service car soon. Tonight I lost interior instrument panel lights but after further observation, I noticed they were just really really dim. I checked the dimmer switch and it was turned up as far as it could go. My mechanic said it sounds like a bad dimmer switch. We checked all the fuses and they were fine along with the dimmer itself which was a small turn away from turning on the dome light. Just checking to see if this is plausible or not???
Cranks up but wont idle. If you hold gas down it will stay running but immediantly shuts off when you let off the gas. Can you help me? It is a throttle body engine.
if the code you are talking about is P0306 that says you have a misfire in cylinder #6, no I don't think that your fuel gauge sender will cause that code. I don't see how only one particular cylinder would misfire because you fuel sender is inaccurate. Now that being said, stranger things have happened. If the injector wiring and the fuel sender wiring were somehow shorted or rubbed through somewhere together it might be possible they both would act up at the same time...
depending on the scanner you are using, see if you have a misfire counter so you can actually look for the misfire. see when it is acting up. if your scanner has the misfire counter ability you should graph the misfires on all the cylinders while you sit at idle then go for a drive and see if you can see when and under what conditions you have a miss.
i am trying to remove the fuel filler door on my 2000 impala without destroying it any helpful hints i need to replace or repair the rust i figure it would be easier to repair on the bench thanks
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala Lt 3.5 L reading code P0010 shifts hard thru first an second gears have a check engine lite on I have changed the camshaft positioning sensor also the plug to that sensor I have also changed the camshaft magnet stop shifting hard for a very short period of time after I chanced that now the lite is back on and the hard shifting persist please help can not keep just spending money also can not afford to pay shop prices. Thanks for reading and any help you may have! Happy 4TH
What could cause a pulsating grinding/roaring noise from the rear end when traveling straight and intensified when turning right? When turning left the noise stops.
i have a 2003 malibu and it goes in rev but no forward gears what can it be pls help.was driving it and shut it off and got bk in it to go and wouldnt move!
I had brought a old Equinox car last year. Yesterday it shows a problem in battery because their head lights is not lighting. When I take my car at Tiremania Auto repair shop which is our local auto repair shop, their repairer says that the battery is completely damaged. So here it is better for me to replace a new one. So asked you that should I need change of my car battery?
sounds like you're on the right track on your diag. and yes, this can affect you shifting. When your check engine light comes on the computer will change how it reacts to your driving the vehicle. basically it goes into a default limp mode. It will substitute a value for the cam sensor since it can't depend on the readings it sees. Some cars shift different, some turn off the cruise, some cars will turn off the AC for codes that may affect power or temp.
make sure you have the right weight oil too
I have a 2004 chevy impala that the check engine light flashes above 30 mph, also chugging real bad at a idle. I have changed fuel cap, fuel filter,o2 senor, ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner also, I am at a loss please help? :cry:
Trying to figure out odd shifting on 2011 impala 3500 motor with automatic- all maintenance up to date except plan to change plugs and wires soon
changed transmission fluid filter etc at 50k and recently near 100k - change not flush - first one fine in winter months but after this one the car does not like shifting on a hill - it will shift ok through the lower gears but if you are pulling a steep hill the rpms will keep going up to 3500 or 4300 before it makes the final shift - if you let off of it and put it right back to it - seems to help it shift - wondering if this could be in the plugs and wires - my first thoughts were transmission - lock up solenoid - dirt in the valve body - torque convertor - no easy fixes that I see but I would appreciate an experts opinion of the most likely cause after a fluid change and suggestions for how to figure it out - my mechanic didn't even put it on the machine just drove it and told me a fluid change would do that? FYI - I also replaced the right front hub assembly due to excessive play in the wheel on the same day as the transmission fluid change. Help Please - my dad taught me to take care of my car and I hate to let things go that can be fixed before a major failure
thanks for your time
After driving for awhile, and stopped at a light, it still idled but wouldn't move and throttle didn't increase. Then Rpms jumped way up, dropped back down, and car moved a little bit. It stopped again, then went again. Pulled into parking lot and put in park. Tried revving gas and it sputtered like it wasn't get enough gas. Plenty of gas and new fuel filter.
when driving in overdrive and under a load (maintaining speed or accelerating up a hill) the car bogs down and runs extremely rough, most of the time i can pull it out of it by downshifting and getting rpm's back. the check eng light flashes for the duration of the poor running. codes thrown are for cyl 5 misfire, the downstream o2 sensor and evap failure. plugs and wires are new but havent changed the runability. i get no response by tapping the TPS (an easy check i read about). could it be a cracked intake? it has the 3800 series II i believe.
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. On the message screen it says service vehicle soon "security" but the car starts and runs fine never dies and never fails to start. It stays on when the car is running also. What does this security light mean? I have changed the ignition switch and key cylinder with no luck in solving the issue..Any ideas?
We have a 2002 Chevy Impala that the ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine lights stay on constantly. We have just replaced both front wheel bearings, (one of them twice), rotors, brakes and new tires all around. We have had a GM dealer look at it and they got the lights to go off, said it was a loose connection. But now their right back on. My husband is a machine mechanic and also does most or all of the work on our cars. He has a high end OBM code reader that also reads ABS. We are getting the codes B1221, B1226, B1232, B1233, and B1245. What could be causing these codes and could you tell me what we need to replace, to be able to clear them and not have them keep coming back on?
This is 2nd time this week my daughters 199 Chevy Malibu died while driving it. We changed the plugs n wires ( which were original from factory) after we found out the large FUSE to ignition was blown. But not now.. Is there something else that can b causing this dangerous problem?
Headlights come on when you start the car, but have no tail lights or brake lights. All fuses have been checked and multi-function switch replaced. It does need a new instrument cluster. Could that effect my tail lights and brake lights. Or is there another common problem with this model?
I have a 04 impala and most of the time when I hit the brakes in cold weather my blower motor stops blowing then when I let off the brake it comes back on .its really annoying it doesn't happen everytime but most of time.i don't know how it can be connected to the brake could it be a vacuum leak in brakes please help
Replaced timing chain and heads on 4cyl 2004 Chevy Malibu. Car was missing...compression was good in all cylinders. replaced coil. Ran good for a short time...then started missing again. Anyone have any ideas....
Trying to locate sensor 1 bank 1 O2 sensor on 3.8l impala. Have seen various diagrams, but not helping. I'm looking for a diagram or pic of exact location.
Thanks in advance.
Hi a few months ago I purchased a upper inlet coolant pipe for my 2000 Chevy Cavalier. When it arrived the o-ring was missing, so I called them and they said they did not have a replacement, so I was left guessing on the size. I have now developed a leak from the o-ring area, and cannot find what size the o-ring anywhere. I was hoping maybe someone reading this would know or have a guide to know. Thanks in advance.
Ive changed all the sensors. I'm stumped. It takes ten minutes or so to start again. Spark dies and injectors too. I also installed a new ECM.
A 1999 Chevy Cavalier with 228,000 miles how much longer will it last ? No noticeable wear and tear or mechanical issues.
Hi mScott, and I have a question about my 2000 Chevy Crapalier. Well I started hearing the dreaded water pump sounds, as well as seeing some antifreeze coming out the weep hole. I preceded to change it and everything went well until a few days later when I noticed the temp gauge starting to get higher and higher. I panicked got the car home in time opened the hood and noticed the coolant was still full, and everything was running smoothy. No loss of coolant, nothing coming out of the overflow, no funky smell, and the car was running great. So I talked my neighbors friend and he said to change the coolant temperature sensor. So I did, and noticed the same problem. Well after trying these things I decided maybe it needs a good cleaning and flushing. Right now I am running super cleaner through the system. I still noticed the problem after running the cleaner for like thirty minutes, so I wiggled the pigtail connector wires that went to the coolant temp sensor, and immediately seen the gauge start to drop. So I replaced the connector, and here is were the question comes in. After changing the connector I started the car, and waited for it get up to temp, and the fan turned on earlier than it usually does, and car temp guage is maintaing a temp cooler then I have ever seen, and the, fan will not shut off after it gets cool, it runs the whole time, until I shut the car off. After I shut the car down, I start it back up and the fan is not running and will not until it reaches temp again, and then cools the car down and simply stays on. Any ideas on what might be causing this. Thanks in advance
I'm looking for some answers and I hope someone can help me before I get totally ripped off being a woman taking a car to a random garage. No offense against men but it does happen often.
Any way, I have a 93 cavalier, 139 grand miles on it.. just recently it started overheating, can't find any leaks yet I am loosing fluid. I bought some kinda stuff u put in the radiator run the car for three days then flush, it had this clay like stuff in it all mushy looking. so I did that, drove it around then had it flushed till water was clear, two days later it started overheating again and fluid just disappearing?.
since yesterday I have had a hell of a time starting it. this am it started fine but I had to put fluid in it again kinda bubbled as I was putting it in and almost immediately I could see it heating up from steam coming out. I was running the car while filling this evening I went out to check it and of course hardly any fluid in it tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked and I could hear water bubbling around...maybe a air bubble from flushing? I had the heater core bypassed 3 years ago when I had a overheating problem . never bothered again till just recently. I live in florida so I really don't need heat in it. no white smoke coming out of back although the catalac converter sounds packed.. or I just need a whole new muffler system. not sure but I am thinking catalac converter is bad. any ideas? maybe new water pump? thermo stuck? it's a old car but it was running like a rocket ship, not a lot miles on it for a 93, I know nothing last forever but I really don't think it is the heads from all that I have read. I do smell gas from time to time idle isn't right , and of course smell exhaust because that system most definitely needs replacing, never had done. Just hate to take it to a garage and have someone rip me off tell me it is something major and it really isn't.... thank u...
Can someone tell me how to replace the actuator motor on the drivers side of my 01 chevy impala. Actuator iis under the dash at the very top- nno space to work and u have to stand I'm ur head. Has to be a better way.
hello my name is Denver i am at a loss....my wife's power steering hose was leaking so i took it off and replaced
it with a new one and now her power steering pump as far as i can tell seems to not be working...
and yes i did bleed it!! i just don't know what else could be going on...please any help i feel
so bad and like a jerk i broke my wife's car!!! car info...2001 Chevy cavalier 2.2L 5 speed
hi, I'm having a code show up that coolants below threshold temp on a chevy impala ss indy edition. 3.8 series 2 supercharged. Could it be because its cold outside(17 deg. F.) and the s.c. forcing the cold air thru motor? or the temp. sensor? please note that when I checked the graph on the code reader it was spiking and dropping radically. While the temp. gauge appears to remain steady. Blows hot heat but sometimes takes quite a while to warm to operating temperature. Could it be thermostat AND sensor. 125,000 miles never been changed. :o :shock:
I have a 2000 chevy tracker and just put a timing chain in it, this car has been sitting for over two years,, with the same gas in it,, it wont start easy and wont idle when it dose,, but runs pretty good at a faster rpm , whats wrong
so you check and there is no spark while cranking? Check you crank signal. Crank sensor, ignition module, ECM, and even fuel injectors can shut down an engine just like someone turned off the key while you're driving. Oh yeah, the ignition switch too. You have to check to see what you have and what you are missing when it cranks over and doesn't start again.
Here is one example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41SZexc_ ... Y0wF2o5WUw
There is no power to the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. Relay clicks but no fuel pressure. The fuel pump was recently replaced and the car was working OK
Im wondering if you can answer these questions. It's my first time here so I will try and include detailed stuff abiut my Truck.
IAC (Idle Air Control)
After taken the IAC Valve out and cleaning the black residue at the end, I'm wondering how far the end of it should be going in/out? I tried turning the car over with that valve out, and all that happens is a small movement- Is that normal?
Also I see some really small holes at the end of the Pintle, Should those be really clean?
How would I test the IAC Valve? I do not have the money to take it to the dealer at the moment, Just had a new baby!
Is there some easy way to check it?
One thing I did do is to test the resistance of the valve and things checked out ok.
Should I replace the small "O" ring? Is so where would I get it at? I checked online with no luck.
EGR VALVE QUESTION:
*How would I test this with the valve attached to the engine? A mechanic a while back cleaned it, but once done he did NOT use a new gasket, he resused the one it had on it. Is that very important to get a new gasket?
My mechanic when recently replacing the fuel pump, did not put a new rubber gasket when attaching the assembly back on, he just reused the old one.
Should I get a new gasket an dhave it put on? Is it very important or critical?
I have a 2001 Chevy Impala with the 3.4 liter engine. The person that I got it from hooked up the battery backwards. Nothing has worked since then. When you turn on the key or crank it the check engine light comes on but no lights, horn, buzzer, nothing else does anything. I have checked the fuses but they all appear to be ok. Please help me with this. Thank you very much.
you had it scanned and showed no codes, did you drive it and watch the data stream? did you use a tech2? The master cylinder is full but did it go low and someone filled it back up? Is the float stuck? (check the pink and black wire going to the master fluid level switch) did you check all your fuses? the ABS 40amp and the ABS 30amp fuse out in the underhood fuse box? or the ERLS fuse in the fuse panel?
I let my car sit and warm up every morning before I pull off but sometimes it acts like it wants to cut off while im pressing the gas...One day I was driving down highway and the car just cut off..it started back up and has only done it once again but this time I had to mash on the gas while starting it....any suggestions on what maybe wrong?
I would look at you secondary ignition components. Spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, ignition module. you should see if you have codes for misfire. if not drive with a scanner on and watch the misfire counter.
spark will always look for the easiest way back to ground. under a load it may be easier to jump outside the system instead of jumping across the spark plug gap.
first make sure you got the O-rings out of the fuel rail and the intake ports. Make sure the injectors you're putting back in, the old ones or the replacement ones, have O-rings on the top and bottom. Lube the O-rings on the injectors before you put them back in. Use brake assembly fluid, dielectric grease, silicone grease... Install them into the rail first. then line them all up with their ports and push them onto the intake.
how far did you take things apart when you removed the injectors?
First, I hope everyone that drives a GM, your cars run like they just left the assembly line. Mine is in a comma. It all started with code p0016, a loud (tick-tick-tick or clunk-clunk-clunk noise) and now it stalled on me. It is a 3.5L, K, flex fuel, v6, with 138,000 miles. 2 years ago when the car had 102,000 it threw code p0011 and one mechanic replaced the camshaft position sensor, camshaft actuator, and camshaft actuator magnet (the round piece of plastic with three screws and a connector). Replaced also the timing chain tensioner, but he kept the timing chain and crank sprocket. Is the new problem related to the old problem? Do I need a new camshaft or crankshaft? Or do I need a new timing set (camshaft actuator, camshaft actuator magnet, chain, sprocket, tensioner) and I am good? Please be as detailed as possible?
Help,,i have a 2004 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 litre K motor(non supercharged) .I have been having a problem with a chugging on start up for a few months now. It usually happens after I've been out in the car ,not on a cold start. It shakes the whole car, and it can happen every time I restart when on errands. It goes away as soon as I accelerate. My partner is a mechanic. He says its not the catalytic converter because of no rotten egg smell. He has tried....new spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced twice the IAC valve, replaced the upper intake (which WAS leaking coolant), replaced oxygen sensor, and I filled car with the highest grade gas on a 5 hour trip to try and burn off carbon. Need to figure this out before the cold weather comes, as it will probably make things even worse. He has hooked it up to a computer, it reads misfire. Any ideas would be extremely appreciated !! Thank You ..
hi i have a 1984 Chevrolet Cavalier Base L4 - 2.0L vin P 122ci - TBI GAS OHV that had a bad oil leak only when the car is on. what causes this to happen? and how do i fix it?
I have a 1982 El Camino 3.8 v6 and it all of a sudden started losing power when take off. We did put in a new fuel filter. What could be the problem?
My '05 Chevrolet cobalt 4 cylnd. Has been puttering badly, acts like it wants to cut off, sometimes it does at a stop. Had engine replaced with '06 engine roundabout a year or so ago. thought maybe bad gas. Put sea foam in it same results. Had test done read code: P0300..misfiring. replaced knock sensor and spark plugs. Same results. Any ideas?
I recently purchased a 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4L base with 68k miles on it and I am having a problem with the acceleration and coolant level.
About every other time I start the vehicle, the car accelerates on its own, to the point where I am riding the brake when driving on a level road. When the car is engaged in park, it seems to be idling high. Also, when the car does accelerate on its own, I can hear a high-pitched whistling coming from the engine.
The coolant level has been under the cold mark for the last few days. I have added approx. 1.5-2 quarts of Dex-cool. Today it stayed at the cold line and did not require more fluid. I was alerted to the problem because I could hear liquid flowing sounds coming from the dash.
Any advice on what I should do? I have brought it back to the dealer and he has been willing to work with me, but he was not able to replicate the acceleration problem.
The dealer did tell me that the lower intake gasket had been replaced recently. I took apart the air intake and cleaned the throttle body and the IAC, but it hasn't helped.
Thanks for any advice.
check your fuel pressure would be one of the first things to check
I've had overheating problems for a while now and I've done almost everything I can think of from changing the water pump, flushing the radiator, changing the thermostat (twice) and changing the cooling temperature sensor (twice). About a month or so ago my mechanic told me he changed some wiring to do with the heat temp sensor, he said it was only sending the fans power on and off. After he did that I changed the cooling temp. sensor again (this being the second time). The first time was a cheaper one and after the fans stopped turning on I bought a more expensive one and put that on after he did the wire work. A week after that the fans stopped turning on again. Even with the fans not running I was okay so long as I was traveling on open highway with higher speeds but last week we went to the drive in and as we were pulling up on the small hill to a straight position from the screen the car started to get hot very fast, mind you we moved the car about three or four times because my b/f can't park a car straight on a hill for w/e reason. When the movies finished and we were leaving to go home the car temp gauge was right at half. I found this very odd to see for a car that had been sitting 2 1/2 + hours but we left and about two miles down the road I had to pull over because the car was getting hot. I could hear a thumping kind of noise from the front bottom of the car. I had to let the car sit for a while and add water to make it home. Ever sense then I can't drive four miles without the car starting to get hot (two lines over half is enough for me to turn the car off considering that is where the last engine temp got before the head gasket blew. I can provide more info about that if needed) whereas before last week I could at least make it around 40 miles before I seen the temp go two lines over half. I have tested the radiator fan by connecting it to the battery and it does turn on but I couldn't get it to run by cross connecting the coolant sensor- to the fan- to the battery but maybe I was doing it wrong since I know little to nothing about vehicles. Is there anything that could be frying the coolant fan sensors I replace? I'm just assuming this one is bad since the fans stopped turning on last week but a week prior when I changed the sensor they were working again albeit short lived. If anyone could tell me how I can fix this problem I would be very grateful!
low coolant light is turned on by a sender usually in the recovery tank. sometimes they get stuck or sink. if coolant is not low replace sensor (sometimes made into the tank)
the clutch may no longer be a clutch problem. Jumping out of gear sounds more like a trans problem. All your clutch does is engage and release the input shaft. If your clutch is worn it may slip. If your clutch is stuck you can't shift (under normal circumstances) because the input speed of the shaft won't let you align the shift collar to get out of gear and into the next gear. Jumping out of gear is a sign of transmission gear problem.
Test drove the car this morning . Mileage was at 14488. Drove for about 4 miles, all runs well mileage did go up to 14492. So the odometer is working it has just changed the actual mileage. I did check the chassis ground at the battery holder and it appears in good shape, not rusted or broke off. Is there some sort of mileage sensor that could have gone bad?
where does the smell come from? the hood area? A gasoline smell on your first start up may be a fuel leak. Check for a leak by cycling the key a few times but not starting up the engine. (turn the key until the warning lights come on in the dash but don't go to "start") that will build up fuel pressure in the lines and injectors. see if you can see or smell gas then.
evap hose leak, fuel tank leak... you need to test when the car has sat overnight while every thing is cold since that is when it happens. A smoke machine would be great to look for vent and hose leaks.
with the transmission in park, turn the ignition switch to start. If the vehicle starts and then dies, leave the ignition in the run position with the engine off until the security light turns off (usually about 10 minutes) Turn the ignition to off for 10 seconds. turn the ignition switch to run. On the next attempt to start the BCM will learn new key code.
I would next pull a spark plug after attempting to crank to see if it's dry, meaning no fuel. I'd also look for major vacuum leaks. I'd also do a Google search on your subject for this post. Sometimes I get a direct hit on my problem when I do this.
1999 Monte Carlo 3.1--hesitation between key turn and starter ignition--sometimes takes several key trys for connection with starter--starts and runs fine after starting. Auto parts store says alternator and battery check okay. What could be going out?
Not the blower motor control unit, replace the whole A/C heater control unit in the dash. The blower resistor is only used to control the blower speeds.
06 impala 3.9 a/c condenser leaking, is it difficult to replace ?
This problem all started a week ago when my girlfriend was driving it home from work and it started running rich to the point where it would stall out. I towed it home and replaced the coolant temp sensor, and it rand better but it would surge at idle. I found out the EGR valve was sticking so i took it apart and cleaned. That didn't fix the condition so i brought it to a shop and they said my lower intake manifold gasket was leaking or i had bad o-rings on the injectors. So i canged the intake manifold gasket and all the injector o-rings. That seemed to fix the issue for a while until my girlfriend took it about 2 miles from home and when she started it to leave it wouldn't rev above 2,000 rpms so she couldn't drive faster than 10 mph. I tested the fuel pressure regulator and changed the fuel filter and the oxygen sensor I cut out the catalytic converter because it sounded plugged up, that didn't fix anything. I've also tested the throttle position sensor, tested the MAP sensor, changed out the oxygen sensor, and the computer will not trip a code. Now I am at a loss, I've been told it could be a bad ECU but I don't wanna sink 100 dollars in the car on a hunch. Does anyone out there have any useful insight?
P.S. I know it sounds like mass air flow sensor but this vehicle is not equipped with one.
No pics needed, like I mentioned before it's the big black triangle on the front of the engine. You can't miss it!
Just so we're clear...the 'front' of the engine is where the belt is and all the pulleys. The 'front' is NOT as you stand looking from the front of the car.
Grab a flashlight and peek down right below the idler pulley area. You'll see it easily. I don't think I could have made it more clear.
The blower resistor has no common thread between what mode is chosen on the control head. Whether you have it on A/C, defrost, or what ever...the only signal it receives is from the fan switch. Are you using GM parts? If you're installing a cheap aftermarket part, that's why you keep replacing it.
This is fairly common and luckily a pretty easy fix. What you need to do is change the cam position actuator magnet that is located on the front of the engine. It looks like a large black triangle with a connector coming out the side of it. There are three torx screws that hold it on. Easy to replace....but...you need to check the following. There is a small 'button' that rides between the camshaft and the magnet. Once the magnet is removed, you should be able to push the button in on the timing gear and have it pop back out. If it does not, then you're looking at having to replace the camshaft and the timing gear set. This is very rare, so you'll most likely be good with just replacing the magnet, but just wanted you to know the details of everything involved.
Hello all, hoping for some help. Fairly limited knowledge here. I have a sbc engine with starter problem. The car can sometimes start once and run fine, but then when attempt to start second time starter gear gets stuck in flexplate. I crawl under and push starter gear back to place. Bought a new starter - it jammed. Tried shimming - no luck. Had original starter rebuilt since I knew it lined up perfectly and had worked many times before recent problem. Bench test is fine... but on the car same problem. Started once, then jammed. A friend suggests it is electrical but I am confused. I thought it would be a mechanical issue since it is a spring that disengages/returns the starter drive gear? I don't think flexplate is bent or damaged. Any suggestions? Thank you very much.
This happens a lot and is an easy fix. If you take a closer look at the pads, there are two with larger tabs and two with smaller tabs. You've probably get them mixed up, or have two of the same with the large tabs going on one rotor. You need to have one small tab brake pad and one large tab brake pad on each side. Take a look at the caliper and you'll see a groove in the metal retainer that is meant for the larger tab. This will mean the pad with the larger tab goes on the inboard side of the rotor.
Put them in the right place and the caliper will sit down nicely on the mounting bracket. If they are installed wrong, you'll feel the caliper pushing back up at you as you try to install it.
every time I back up I hear a clicking noise. It stops when I move forward. Also the check engine light comes on for about a week the goes back off. Got a diagnosis it said something about a faulty wiring.