After fixing the idlen and stalling issue, my 94 lesabre battery light keeps coming on and eventully shuts down, ive replaced the battery and alternator 3 times, my question is what can continously kill an alternator??? Please help
I have a 93 Buick century special 3.3 v6. It has new catalytic convertor,new throttle positioning sensor, new oxygen sensor, new pcv valve. It runs great the gears on dash are 1,2,D no circle around it just causal D when i try to accelerate best way to describe it is feels like its choking itself out. I have to feather the gas to get it going. Before i know it im 35mph before it shifts from 1rst to 2nd after it hits drive its fine if i have to slow down enough to down shift to 1rst it does it all over again i cleaned maf too i asked couple mechanic about my car one said sounds like a bad ecm i checked auto parts store for price they said my cars transmission doesn't run off the ecm a 4 speed does a 3 speed doesn't. The other mechanic said could be shift solenoid or pressure modulator both $30 parts how long does is take to replace a shift solenoid? Or pressure modulator? So i can figure what I'll pay labor for my mechanic to change them he
1994 Buick Lesabre Keeps idoling High and stalls when coming to a stop or making a complete stop. The service engine light stays on most of the time then goes off but comes right back on. The battery light plays peek-aboo with me I replaced the Battery and alternator and the light still comes and goes. It idols high and then goes back to regular then idols high again.. I replaced the throttle sensor, its still doing the same thing. Car never cuts off untill you are slowing down to make a stop or you stop completely and then slowly cuts off like you are out of gas. I have taken the car to two different shops so I could get the code reader put on and both places are unable to read anything its like it wont connect???? I dont know what else to do It sounds like possibly there is a vacuum leak somewhere when the engine is rev'd but nobody can find one anywhere I dont know what else to do someone help!?!?!
Air will not blow through my vents on my 95 park ave, I have replaced the blower motor and still no air. What could be my problem?
This is pertaining to an electrical/ignition problem for a 95 Buick LeSabre with 94k miles. The car battery is consistently dieing. I have 7 amps drawing from the battery when the car is turned off. The battery is brand new, I have replaced a replacement just to be sure I could eliminate the battery however it is the $80 battery from auto zone so theres a slight chance it could be the quality of the battery. I have taken it to my buddy to test parts on the car that draw power when the car is off to see what might be sucking the juice from the battery. The car will not be able to start 3 days after it was last turned off. The odd thing is the car started the past three straight days, I can it to recharge the battery and when I went out today to start it, the battery was dead. This is the first time any thing like this has happened to the car.
Do you have any suggestions on why this is happening? I’d be glad to answer any questions that would provide additional insight into my dilemma.
Yes, each gauge has a stepper motor that control it inside the instrument cluster.
I found a picture that may have the parts you described
Yes, you could have a plugged catalytic converter. They can also set EGR codes. The proper test is to use a back pressure gauge in the oxygen sensor port. But, you can unbolt the exhaust at the rear manifold from under the car, ahead of the converter then see if power and acceleration is restored.
You could also have a faulty MAF sensor. You would need to look at airflow readings of MAF to see if they increase as RPM increases. You can also unplug it when it is running, if it dies- restart it, then see if power is back to normal.
I would also check the fuel pressure regulator. If it was leaking, that would cause the very bad gas mileage, and could be the cause of a plugged catalytic converter.
If it is wearing that badly, either the strut has been pushed way out of alignment, or more likely since you have movement you describe, the wheel bearing is loose.
Have that wheel off the ground, move it to get it to wiggle and have someone look at the ball joint and strut. If they are not moving, but the axle is, then the hub bearing is bad.
Tire wear problems
HI when the car buick lesabre 94 was working ok going up a
long up hill grade motor increses rpm to 2000 2500 and
stays there untill i reach the top and motor rpm come back
to 1800 again 65 mph, now on a up pull or on a level road
going over 50 mph in overdrive rpm drop to 1200 steping on
gas pedal rpm still 1200 step harder still 1200 if i tap the
gas pedal up and down fast rpm jumps to 1800 and back
down to 1200 again a few seconds later this go on and on
until i slow down to under 50 mph and in 3 gear rpm stay
at 1800 and every thing works ok no more tapping the gas
pedal just takes more gas to get somewhere.
when the rpm drop to 1200 going up hill car stammers
because motor running too slow to pull the load
question is what makes the motor speed up to 2500 0r
3000 and stay there in [ overdrive only] over 50 mph gong
up hill thank you hope this helps you make a better
analycis note this in overdrive only 4 gear that i have
ok, be careful. keep in the back of your mind that the spring holds the weight of your car up
Thanks carriedi for that info. on my 96 Buick Park Avenue . My wallet just might be !!
1993 Buick park avenue 3.8l v6
Issue just started - out of rhythm knocking or banging from best area.
This is a video I took of it yesterday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhlQ9pQZ ... e=youtu.be
Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Plenum replalced almost two years ago by neighbor. Took it on long drive afterwards and it had a very small misfire when driving it I could feel it. I let the car sit for almost two years and just recently had my mechanic look at it. He had to replace brake lines and fuel lines and fuel filter. He is not the person who did the plenum repair. btw, because of previous history with an olds I knew about the white smoke and dexcool and shut car off the first time I saw it and there did not appear to be much damage other than the plenum so the neighbor said.
My mechanic said the engine sounded fine and he took it for a ride. I picked it up two weeks ago and am having terrible gas mileage and smelling pure gasoline when I start the car and back into it. Engine lgt. is on. Sometimes blinking. Drives good. slight misfire when in D,R but not in P OR N. My mechanic is on vacation. I am a female. Ok, lol, what could be the problem. Thanks guys, so much.
you would have to see if you have spark and injector pulse. Without a lab scope or scanner the way you can tell if you have a cam and crank signal is to check to see if you have spark to the spark plugs or the injector pulse to the fuel injector.
I replaced the MAF because it was giving a code, I forget which one now but it wasn't functioning properly I tried cleaning it first but it made no difference so I replaced it, I am unfamiliar with freeze frame and fuel trim
I'm guessing it would be a Lumina with a buick 3.8L.. I'm not quite sure... We have replaced the spark plugs with a new set of NKG. But as for the spark timing and fuel, We haven't checked that but we did replace the fuel rail and injectors. Engine still cranks up but still no turn over.
I'm checking out a friends, Aunts 1998 Buick regal car for him. With that said the symptoms, it ran its last trip to McDonalds perfect, came out to go home and it didn't start. Several hours later it started and drove home only to die in the driveway @ home. Removed fuel filter and black crap came out, so it was replaced with a new filter. the car started and ran ~ 5 minutes then died and wouldn't start. That is where I came in, trailered the car to my shop, Checked fuel pressure and had ~ 42 psi. Replaced the Fuel pump anyway (practice) new pump 43psi, still no start. Checked the injector wiring on the passenger side that could removed without removing the plenum. Test showed firing at the infector plug. (forgot to mention had good spark @ plugs) went to the injector beside the oil fill cap unplugged the injector and hooked up the noid to verify current @ that injector. It does have current going to it, the car cranked up of course skipping, but it continued to run. unplugged the noid and connected plug to injector and the engine died immediately. we did this several times with the same result. Will replacing this injector solve this problem? It really makes no since to me how this 1 injector can kill all of the other ones. Somebody please Email me with the fix for this car. thanks Steve (bracketshark)
first of all, it may be easier to remove the two 13mm bolts on either side of the big hole at the top of the strut. then you cat remove the big nut in the center outside of the car. Be very sure that the lower control arm is supported such that the spring is compressed so the strut is not loaded (under pressure)
the bolts at the bottom of the strut do get rusted in. Have you tried to turn the bolts? Sometimes trying to turn the bolts will get them freed up so you can hammer them out. If you can't hammer them out (making sure you don't damage the end or the threads) you could use an air hammer with a wide flat bit that looks a little like hammer face to push them out. There is also an inductive tool that can go over the bolt and heat them up called the mini-inductor. It will get the bolts really hot without using any flame and that could free the bolts. If your car has the air ride make sure you let the air out of the struts.
No, you must use the correct pulleys. Step one, get the oil leak fixed.
We have a 1994 Buick Regal Gran Sport Coupe. We scraped the bottom of our car bad. We broke the trailer hitch. We started having the turn signal fuse blow repeatedly. The battery meter went down dramatically and our headlights flickered. We made it home and checked and there were wires hanging. We taped them up. Fuses stopped blowing but the meter and lights stayed an issue. We have taken the wires out to the trailer assembly. It didn't fix the problem. We were told to check wires and grounds. We have tried and have no idea where to check for "grounds". We took it to Advanced Auto and they said the battery, alternator and starter all test fine. Any suggestions, ideas or comments... anything would be greatly appreciated.
You are going to need to get a wiring schematic.
Check for power in and ground at the low beam terminals.
It may be a problem in the daytime running lights circuit.
I have a 1998 Buick lesabre custom, It won't start. All of the instrument panel lights are off when I turn the Key forward to crank. they will come on as I jiggle it in the start position and the starter turns over and the car starts. But upon releasing the key it dies. I have replaced the Key Lock Cylinder with new resistance key, with the same results. Help ! The security light is on in the brief moment the car starts and, or however long I hold the key in the run position.
My 1995 Buick CenturyV 6 my dash my headlights my tail lights my interior lights my brake lights do not work my hazards work car drives and runs fine help can someone help me
I have replaced both O2 sensors, as well as the spark plugs, and wires on my 2005 Buick Rendezvous with the 3.4L engine, and, although it seems to run better, it is still exhibiting similar symptoms ( stalling around a right, or left turn) I also checked the fuel regulator, and it is not leaking.
I have never had it on the scanner that you described, which might be what I need to do. We are working in my garage, with limited diagnosing equipment.
What about the other sensors ( crankshaft position sensor?- what might be the procedure for testing it??
Any other recommendations before I bring it to the dealer, or other more costly diagnosing shops?
2005 Buick Rendezvous AWD 3.4L Car started stalling at low idle We got Codes Po300; replaced spark plugs and Ignition wires; problem still there; plugs black with fuel, before and after replacement; Code 132 appeared; replaced upstream O2 sensor; still having same problem
On occasion, upon starting, my 2003 Buick Century will start with a very high idle. Even after driving it for a while it stays on high idle so fast I don't even need to hit the accelerator to go 25 mph. It seems to be happening more frequently in the past week or so.
When you have a quad driver code, that usually means you need to replace the computer. The torque converter clutch (TCC) sticking on will cause the car to die out as you come to a stop, especially if it has been driven at higher speeds. Normally that requires replacement of the TCC solenoid, and/or the wiring harness inside the transmission.
93 buick roadmaster limited, did tune up, plugs wires cap rotor. set timing. changed leaking oil pressure sensor. now car will not start without use of starter fluid and keeping rpms above 1500to 2000. also put in new fuel pump/screen, filter, tps sensor, injectors and full gasket kit for tbi... also new coil pack, fuel pressure regulator.. car still as stated above. please help!! Sincerely (Oh about the codes.. had a 23 and replaced tps sensor now no code shows and car still same as above...
There are small rows of holes in the dashboard to the right of the steering column. Does anyone know what they are? This is on a 2005 Buick Century. Thanks!
Is the throttle body's of the 1996 Buick Park Ave 3800 V6 and the 1995 Buick Park Ave 3800 V6 compatible put the 1996 on the 1995 only difference I see or can find is the mass air flow sensor
Why wont the windows on the passenger side wont roll up or down?
The blower goes out when i hit the gas on my buick park avenue. It only happens in drive gear, not reverse. When i hit the gas and the blower goes out, it also sounds like the the frame or something is clunking. Could these be relarwd somehow? I read it could be a wiring problem.
It's probably set one or more trouble codes in the computer if the car is shutting off like that. The first thing you should really do is get the car scanned to see if and/or what the codes are. This will usually lead you in the right direction to fix what ever is causing this issue.
Otherwise, it could be something like a sensor shorting out, an ignition problem, fuel delivery issue, etc. Lots of possibilities, but start with basic checks, making sure everything is connected, no vacuum leaks, etc....and get the car scanned.
97 Buick Lesabre Custom.... Car ran hot so i changed top radiator hose cause it was sucked together.... Started car for abt two mins n shut it off... Wnt start back.... I took plug wire off to see if i had spark... I do have spark but when i chk fuel pressure it was barely shootn out.... I was told it could be my fuel pump or my Cam shaft sesor... Can u guys help please???
How do you replace the cabin air filter on 2011 Buick Lacrosse CXL. After removing the right side dashboard cover they say their is one small tab that the glove box has a 1/4 plastic tip seated in the tab.
I cannot find this tab or have I been given bad information. Please send me step by step how to remove the cabin air filter.
Well, you either messed something up during your repair or you have a different problem all together. You might want to recheck your work and make sure nothing came loose or broken after your repair.
Could be something transmission related. If it stops when you coast or let off the gas, that would tell me that you're taking the load off of whatever is causing the problem, such as something inside the transmission. If you're sure the axles, wheel bearings and tires/wheels are all ok, then you'll have to start looking in the transmission area for issues. This can mean removing the transmission and looking for trouble. Usually vibrations are tires or wheels 99% of the time so I'd be sure it isn't something simple before getting too involved in it.
The liftgate latch mechanism on my 2004 Buick rendezvous simply stopped opening. Was working by remote and there is no manual way of opening the gate
Can the auto-dim rearview mirror (with map lights) be replaced with a standard mirror with the lights? or is there a wiring difference?
engine turns over but is not getting any power to computer or test port for code reader any suggestions
I NEED TORQUE / PUSH ROD SPECS for a 2003 BUICK 3.1L V6 engine so I can finish replacing the intake manifold gaskets.
starts/runs/ untill transmission engauged-94 buick skylark
My car was leaking antifreeze from the intake manifold gasket. My mechanic replaced the gasket and phlemun (sp). He also replaced the PCV valve and replaced the oil pan gasket which was slowly leaking.
He flushed and filled the radiator, replaced all the oil and filter. Then the car started leaking oil bad from the crank shaft gasket so he replaced that. He pressure tested the engine and had perfect pressure, he also tested the cooling system and all was ok. Now the oil light comes on when I am at an idle or am slowing down which to me indicates low oil pressure but then what do I know. Then while driving the car it just stopped dead in the middle of the street. Now the engine makes a constant clanking noise, oil pressure goes up and down when tested depending on RPMs. Mechanic says to get rid of the car after all of this.
Could this be A. oil pressure sensor, B. Crank shaft position sensor, C. Oil pump going out. Oil clog in some port or something??? Should I get rid of the car? Help...my mechanic can't figure it out.
my multifunction switch on my 99 century my blinkers and wipers work but lights wont work unless i wiggle the stick then they shut right off. i can turn my lights on with the dash dimmer switch but this only works in the daytime. is there any way i can get the switch to turn them on at night? ive tried pointing a light at the daylight sensor but it doesnt work is there a way to disable auto lights so i can temporary fix and use manual switch?
Just bought a 1999 buick regal 3800 it leaks coolant when first start, under engine
not sure sure if is coming from the recovery tank or water pump. Not overheating yet.
What can I do to check?
I have a 1998 regal, My wife got in after allowing it to warm up for 15 mins and noticed the battery light was on and when she put it in gear all warning lights came on and she had very little acceleration. Could this be the mass air flow sensor or any ideas on what it could possibly be? Thanks
The temp guage on my 2004 Buick La Sabre always was always perfectly centered after the engine was warmed up. Now the coolant temperature climbs slowly, and only reaches about 178 degrees. It may be the original factory thermostat, so I am assuming that it should be replaced. Is the thermostat located at the engine end of the radiator hose (like on older cars?)
when my 1989 buick lesabre gets warmed up it starts to miss really bad what cud be my problem?
i have a 1997 buick lesabre replaced the head gaskets and up it started just fine. Just needed to jump battery. Ran and got code random misfire and random misfire cylinder #6. Replaced ign. coils and replaced battery now wont start. It cranks just fine getting fuel and getting spark. It wants to start but wont, any ideas out there.
2009 BUICK ENCLAVE SURGES OR MISSES WHEN GOING UP GRADE OR WHEN YOU ACCELERATE. ANY IDEAS?
My 2002 Buick Century interior/dashboard lights don't always come on. Problem has been going on for about one plus years.Sometimes they will pop on but I never know if they will. I noticed entering a parking garage at dusk they popped on...later same day turned off car then when restarted they worked again in parking garage but several minutes later outside turned car off was under street lights then restarted car they would not come back on...I have checked and replaced the fuses this doesn't fix problem. My boyfriend dropped something under the steering column and came back up and banged his head hard on steering column then the lights came back on and worked for a month or two. I really need some help on this. My nephew and Dad are great at working on cars so if you cqn give me advice They can probably fix it...Thx
I HAVE A 2000 BUICK LE SABER WHY DOES MY COOLANT SENSOR KEEP POPPING OUT?
I have a 96 Buick Regal Custom 3.8L and I am hearing a rubbing or even boing noise when I turn my steering wheel, and also a bouncing in my left rear end when I hit bumps (almost as if something is in the trunk) The advice Ive received was ball joints for the steering and shocks and/or bushings for the bouncing, does this sound right?
2004 buick regal 3800.Sometimes it starts like nothing is wrong with it and other times it takes at least 5 mins.Key turns,has good voltage but does nothing.Connections are tight.At times it starts all day.Can someone help? Thank you.
How do I get the plug wires to come off the spark plugs on a Alero 2004 4cyn
My Buick Park Avenue car engine is revving between gears before engaging into the next higher gear.
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabra and the transmission will not shift into third. Do anyone have an answer for this problem?
I have a 1996 buick lesabre 3.8 vin K. the online kits show a spring with the pvc assy. My car does not have a spring in it. Do some models not use the spring. It seems like it would not fit anywhere. also what is the pressure sensor on top for?
Are you actually having a problem with the transmission, or just want those results interpreted?
As far as I can see, the readings that showed lower than normal really aren't that much lower than the low end spec, so there should not be any issues or need to replace parts. If you are having a shifting issue, or slippage, there can still be other problems inside the transmission that won't show up on a pressure check.
When I depress my brakes I hear a wooshing sound as long as I hold them down and while holding them down they slowly leak down to the floor. I am not getting a rock solid lock' em up brake process. The wooshing sound appears to be in the area of the booster. All brakes (disc) are completely new just 3-4 months ago. I have had no issues with the brakes.
When we changed the brakes they were well bled. About once a week my ABS indicator light will come on when I back out of my driveway and then go out shortly after. I have checked the vacuum from the engine to the booster and no discrepancies noted. It was suggested to me to run the car, turn it off and then pull the vacuum line from the booster and listen for a vacuum sound. I did this and yes I got a vacuum sound so I am thinking that the booster diaphragm is intact.
My MC is not losing any fluid. My thoughts are a 1. failed booster, 2. an internal leaking MC or 3. an ABS module issue (there was a recall back in the day for the "Brake Hydraulic Control Unit" (also was referred to as "Internal Leaks in the ABS hydraulic modulator") I have had GM cars for 30+ years and have never had this problem. Since I am out of work I cannot do shotgun maintnenance so I appreciate any help I can get. Thank you.
1998 buick regal gs 3.8 supercharged. The transmission started slipping slightly for the last couple weeks mostly when going uphill. It felt a lot like a coil was goIng. It seemed to drive fine otherwise. No shuttering or major slipping. I drove the car for about an hour, stopped for a few min then drove again and my first stop after putting it in drive it just revved freely. Drive and reverse!
If I leave it a while it go's in gear and drives a few seconds then revs but looses drive as if it's in neutral. What does this sound like? Should I bother replacing filter to see if that makes a difference? Money is tight and hope there's something I can do myself!? Thanks in advance for any help in giving any feedback as to what this might be!
where is the coolant sensor located for the gauge?
1998 Buick LeSabre, 3800 eng. No start, original problem began with check eng light, now cranks well but no start. Checked codes with scanner, no codes present. Code reader does activate and seems to do a scan. Is ECM bad? would a defective coil leave a code?
I have been experiencing the following random failures:
o While driving, RPM guage drops to zero; engine continues to operate fine.
o While driving, RPM guage drops to zero simultaneous with a brief stutter or a hard shift; engine continues to operate fine.
o While driving, RPM guage drops to zero, volt indicator lights, engine dies. Sometimes I can shift into neutral, restart, and resume. Other times the engine may require several attempts to restart. Plenty of cranking power, but the engine sounds like it is not getting spark or fuel, until it restarts.
o While leaving a stop light, the engine falters and dies. It may or may not immediately restart.
These symptoms have happened relatively rarely, though the frequency has been increasing. I have never been stranded, as the restart occurs within 2-5 minutes. Sometimes (but not often) these symptoms cause the Service Engine Soon light to appear. The light disappears within 2 or 3 more times driving.
What do I need to do to diagnose the cause?
2000 LeSabre, approx 140,000 miles.
My 2000 Buick Park Avenue 3800 V6 over heated and shut off on the highway. I didnt try to start it i also had a leak in the radiator so i changed the thermostat and had to change the radiator, now it wont start. It cranks but wont start.
I got it started now its blowing white smoke out the exhaust and looks like the motor is steaming.
What should i do please. 2000 Buick park avenue.
On my 2000 Buick lesabre the exterior and interior and the climate control keep flashing on and off and I did replace the headlight switch and I can hear the air flow door trying to open or close keeps clicking back and forth and the exterior temp gage flashing to help please.
Hi I took the head to a machine shop and ask him if he could resurface it and I told him I had a strip bolt where the rocker arm goes he told me he didn't suggest me getting it redone that I need a new one how much do these usually run .Because when I went to pick the head up I think it was the old one degreased and gave back to me on my ticket it says recondition rods,valve jobs and surface heads. Now the first man at the shop said if I got the head recondition it could blow my motor so should I be concern I'm just affraid this one is the old one recondition and I don't want my motor to blow it had a bent rod that came out of this head any info will be appreciated.
There should be a sticker somewhere under the hood that shows an emission diagram as well as vacuum line routing. I'd also recommend getting it scanned to see what trouble code has set, as that might be helpful in diagnosing your acceleration problem. Other things to check are the PCV valve, make sure both o-rings are in place, otherwise it will cause a large vacuum leak. Also check the vacuum tubing from the fuel pressure regulator and EVAP purge solenoid to the throttle body area, that all is one part and should never be repaired. You may also want to check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks as well, while your checking that vacuum connection. Hope you find your problem!
OK. So you said the engine is the 3800 3.1L. Well, that is 2 different engines.
Is it the 3.1L or the 3.8L ?
You must have the 3.1L, 3100 V6.
So, if you are asking how to get to the lifters, then you need to take off the intake manifold to get to them. They are down in the valley just like most engines. Remove the upper intake manifold, valve covers, loosen the rockers, remove the pushrods and then remove the black plastic lifter guides. See the picture with intake manifold removed...
My 2003 Buick LeSabre is having a little bit of a problem, I have had the car for the last 4 years with no issues starting the vehicle. One day out of the blue the vehicle stalled and would not crank after multiple attempts. I waited for about 20 minutes and tried again...BOOM...car cranks on the first try but Check Engine light comes on... I take it to my local auto parts store to troubleshoot the check engine message and it read "Camshaft Position Sensor malfunction", at which I purchased a new sensor to resolve issue. Ironically the vehicle started up as normal for the next few days prior to any repair, check engine light no longer on. 2 days ago the problem resurfaces and I decided to take the vehicle to a local Midas to replace CPS, Midas tech advises that he replaced sensor but vehicle still having issues. What's going on here?!? I did a little research and it may be the Crankshaft sensor or a bad Ignition Control Module...Please help, this problem is pretty annoying!!
If your Buick has a vacuum modulator, it is on the drivers side front of the transmission. Open the hood and look down between the radiator and transmission. It would have a vauum line going to it. But i do not think your car has one.
This is old technology that used to cause late shifting on old cars. Todays cars are electronically controlled. You are describing a transmission slip.
You can try to do a fluid and filter change, that may help. But most likley the transmission needs to removed and repaired. Could be a problem in the valve body, or it is just worn out and needs an overhaul.
1997 Buick Lesabre,Just before coming to a complete stop the abs kicks in,no abs light,checked all wheel sensors ok
2000 Buick LeSabre 3.8 engine. Car starts runs sometimes 5 or 6 minutes, sometimes 5 or 10 seconds and sometimes it will run 30 or 45 minutes. Changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, Crank sensor and the ICM. Fuses all seem to be working. When it stalls you can spray starting fluid into the air intake and it will start but stalls when the fluid is consumed. Checked one of the injectors with a test light while an assistant cranked the motor over and there was no power the first try but the second time she cranked it over there was power and it started and then it stalled again. What could be causing this?
2005 Buick Rendezvous 195,000 miles. Traction Control system is engaging frequently. Road surface, speed, braking or not doesn't matter. Sometimes just getting in or out of the car when running in park causes the "moan" of the traction control. There is a switch for Trac Off I can engage. that turns on a light on dash signifying traction off, but I still frequently get the traction control sound and feel.
By the way, speedometer completely dead now, needle never moves. Fuel gauge completely wrong. Temp guage sometimes wrong, doesn't return to cold when car parked (overnight) then after starting, as it heats up it adds yesterdays temp . The RPM guage has only failed to work twice, which is good cause I know 2000 RPM is 70 MPH. LOL
2004 Century. Last night the wipers were used and when turned off they are in the "up position" (90 degrees to the hood)
How can I fix this so they go down?
Trying to figure out why my regal gs is waisting so much gas
I replaced the stock speakers in my 1993 Buick Lesabre and a week after i installed the aftermarket stereo and the front door speakers and the decklid speakers they quit working and i dont know what it could be. any help?
BCM controls some of the gauges and the theft system, which may be your no start problem.
To start you need a scanner to check all modules codes. You can test ignition switch by taking voltage readings in the affected circuits - systems, or tap on it to see if these things act up.
My car (1992 Buick LeSabre) was idling while I was ran inside a store quick the other day, and when I came back, the Check Engine light and the ABS light were on, and the engine was struggling. I pushed lightly on the gas, and the interior lights and headlight (which were on), went VERY dim, and when I let go of the gas, the car died. I turned the key to restart the car, nothing happened. No sound, no turn, nothing. But all the interior lights, headlights, and radio still worked.
I went inside and asked if someone could give me a jump, see if that would help, before they got to where I was parked, I tried to start it again just to see, and this time it clicked rapidly, but the engine did not turn. We got the cables hooked up and the car started just fine, no extra lights were on. I drove it home (about 15 minutes or so) and let it idle for about 10 more minutes (to charge the battery), and the lights came back on.
This time, the engine did not sound like it was struggling, but I looked at the spedometer and it was pinned at 100MPH (the car is in Park). I pushed on the gas, and the spedometer just went crazy, as the lights dimmed drastically again. And again, when I let my foot off the gas, the car died. Tried to start it, same result. No sound, no turn, no nothing. The next day, I went to my car and it's doing the clicking thing again, but still won't start.
The battery has not been checked, but is 3 years old (they have usually lasted me 6-8 years). The alternator is 2 months old (brand new at instalation), and the ignition (where you put the key into the car) was replaced about a month ago because a wire in the security system was broken and the whole thing needed to be replaced.
Anyone know what I should look for? I thought it might be something weird in the electrical, but not sure where to even start looking.
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre, On cold days it makes a knocking noise that quiets after driving about 30 miles. It is not a ticking noise like an exhaust leak. The knocking sound gets louder as i accelerate, but I can still hear it when i start it. I have tried putting an additive in my fuel, thinking maybe it's bad gasoline, but I drive 70 miles a day and it has been going on for about 3 weeks now. On warm days, there is no noise. I've been checking the oil levels daily, and it is always fine. Is this noise normal??
I need the procedure to unlock my radio after the battery was replaced, I have the code number.
I will add that when winter is over you probably need to watch the oil pressure. Winter thickens the oil, but when the motor is hot or the weather stays warm you may notice the pressure and need to run a little thicker oil. This is because the pressure is made by forcing it through the engine components- but over time wear increases the passages. I don't suggest running 20w50 because it can actually strain the oil pump, but from my experience the harder run vehicles show less pressure.
And synthetic oil is nice- if you want to pay the price, but not necessary. Much of the oil you buy have the same additives and such as the synthetic. I have only run it once- only because the dodge smoked a little and I was tired of seeing it.
Buick Century 2000: Do you know the name of molding that fits on exterior of driver's door at top? It's black and seals the window. Is it the "reveal" molding?
Also, is this difficult to change?
Thanks very much!
Thanks for the info!
You will need a test light to check to see if the problem is in fact the starter. The large red cable comes straight from the battery and will be hot when using a test light all the time. The purple wire is the solenoid wire. This wire is only hot when the key is turned to the crank position. If it is hot while ranking, and the engine does not crank, then the starter is bad. If that purple wire is not hot when you are trying to crank the engine, then you can have a problem in the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch, or in the non-factory alarm system if your car has one. If you don't have a test light or unfamiliar and how to use it, you can turn the key to the "on" position and carefully use a screwdriver to touch the stud of the purple wire and the large red wire to see if the starter will crank. If it doesn't then the starter is bad.
The right tail light doesn't work on my 92 Park Avenue (but works with stop lights) No tension to the bulb and I don't know where to locate the lights fuses.
Over the past year, the check engine light on my 2003 Buick LeSabre Custom has indicated a service engine soon PO404 code on three different occasions.
I have had my mechanic replace the EGR valve twice. Now, the check engine light is on again with the same code problem.
The acceleration is sluggish initially, but improves somewhat after the engine warms
Could this be something other than the EGR value?
The anti lock and traction control lights come on after the car driven about 100'. No trouble codes. Where should I look first?
I was driving along in my 2000 LeSabre and my entire climate control assembly went dead and my A/C stopped working. It seems like a ground problem, but I cannot locate where it is grounded to the body so I can check that. Can you please help?
2002 buick 3.1 engine will not rev up has no pulling power on hills unhooked converter put new fuel pump in changed air flow meter tps sensor cleaned throttle body egr put new intake gaskets on also have repl aced computer car starts and runs good but when try to rev it surges up and it isn,t reving up enough for the rev limiter to kick in spark plugs are very white
This is a common problem with a shorted out blower resistor.
It is located under the hood, on the topof the HVAC case. I believe i say a description of its locstion son this forum. Do a search for "Blower Resistor".
I have a 2001 Buick Regal LS. I let my brother change my oil, replace my air filter, and replace my brake pads and when I started to drive away there was a noise from the right passenger front tire like clanging metal. He took it apart and said the caliper needed to be rethreaded. Once he had done that the car itself wouldn't start at all! When turning the key there are no lights appearing on the dash whatsoever, let alone ignition. He gave it a jump and still nothing. A scan a few weeks ago at the auto parts store indicated the crankshaft sensor needs replacing and I have noticed the rpms stalling out in the last few weeks.
Being the weekend I've got to wait til Monday for a mechanic to take a look at it but the suspense might kill me. What could it be!
My 1998 Buick Lesabre V6 (3800) just started to have an issue with the light.
Fuel light is on even though it has a full tank.
When it starts the needle is on full but immediately drops to empty.
Sounds like either a problem inside the control head, ignition switch or a ground problem. AGround problems can make several different circuits act goofy like that.
WHERE IS THE COOLANT SENSOR LOCATED ON A 2005 BUICK 3500 ENGINE?
Remove the front upper engine mounts- knowas the dogbones. Then use a pry bar to "Slave" the motor forward. Have also done this and have a friend put the car in reverse and hold the brake firmly, then give it gas to get the engine to move, then pull the blower out.
The purge solenoid is on the engine. The Vent solenoid / valve is the part that is near the fuel tank of canister.
From standing at the front bumper, remove the engine cover, it is attached to a bracket above the front valve cover, closer to the ignition coils / module.
See this link for 3800 V6 Sensor Locations
Number 9 in the picture. One electical connector, two vacuum hoses.